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Showing most liked content since 03/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The data loggers are absolutely incredible in what they do, and small and easy to mount. If you really are interested in one, contact the school office at 800-530-3350. Slicks are really expensive and tires are one of the biggest expenses involved in track riding. If the data logger helps you find the problem with your tire wear (or gives you the info you need to take to your suspension guy or tire guy), it will pay for itself very quickly. The additional riding info that you get that will improve your laptimes will just be a bonus! Edit - BTW if you have a friend that has one, too, you can download your data and compare, creating a "virtual race" type thing where you can overlay your laps and see the differences - where you or your friend is getting on the gas earlier, carrying more speed, braking later, etc., and you can use your combined positive points to improve each other's laptimes. Or just bench race. Anyway it is really great and I highly recommend it!
  2. 2 points
    Most discussions of steering and "weight shift", "loading" and "helps it to steer" are riddled with illogic, and the people discussing will not reach a conclusion predicated on so many errors in thought. Rather, going to the basics of logic is the best way forward lest they get entangled permanently in confusions. Forums have become a popular platform to air ones flawed thought process, while other visitors try in vain to overhaul their whole logical approach to problem solving. Not saying I've got logic down myself, but some statements and articles have so many flaws, it's like: "where do we start?..." and just skip it. Remember when you have contrary facts, one or both are false. Some things to consider: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consistency https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Validity
  3. 1 point
    I just did a track day, and during the day I got to thinking that I really need to start using my knee sliders and get comfortable using them. After a lot of big improvements in quick succession (suspension upgrades that gave much better feel & improved confidence, started using tyre warmers so I gun it into the first corner and don't waste time) I've found myself getting surprised the few times a knee slider touches down. Sometimes it's just because my inside leg bounces and the slider almost "slaps" the track over a bumpy section, other times it's just that I'm carrying that much lean angle. I've never focussed on getting my knee down, I've spent all my time working on other areas of my riding which is finally all coming together and paying off big time! Speed is not a problem, today was the first time I rode in the fastest group and I probably should have been there for a little while. I am probably the only person in the group that doesn't get knee down. But my riding style means that I don't have such an exaggerated "leg out" body position, in fact usually I pull my leg in towards the bike. So I'm never expecting it when the slider touches down and it has been catching me off guard, sometimes I actually check up and roll off the throttle slightly, which then puts me off and I loose the rhythm for the rest of the lap and a bit. So the question is - how do I go about getting used to using the knee sliders? Just keep doing what I'm doing... and try to get used to the feeling when it happens? It feels like I'm backwards with all this - usually people put all their effort into getting knee down to look cool, then focus on actually developing good riding technique - I went straight to the technique, "cool factor" be damned. Haha Has anyone else found themselves in this situation - being fast, but totally unfamiliar with getting your knee down?? Cheers for any ideas or suggestions!
  4. 1 point
    Perhaps we should have been discussing this instead. Only corollary that I could think of would be Garry McCoy’s sliding style of cornering, where he’d light up the rear, swinging the thing around the steering head. Caught a lot of flak until he won a GP race like that AND it was found that the tire was no worse for wear as only the top surface was heating up.
  5. 1 point
    Because all the gears and sprockets that link the crankshaft with the rear wheel act like a lever: the rotational speed of the rear wheel gets reduced while its applicable torque increases. For the same degree of openning of the throtle, resisting load and rpm's, the engine generates certain amount of torque or rotational force. We have to work around that more or less constant amount of torque, playing with the gears, just like it happens with a bicycle. For a greater resistive load (going uphill, for example), we have to sacrifice rotational speed of the rear wheel in order to have greater torque there; hence, we switch to lower gears. One trick for riding in the rain is to corner using a taller than normal gear, which "weakens" the available torque of the rear wheel, which creates an extra safety margin regarding any mistake with excessive throttle that could overwhelm the marginal available traction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Tc3VIDQvh0
  6. 1 point
    Just so we are clear, I'm talking about higher rpm while already leaned over, which is not the same thing as having some throttle on while steering the bike. The bike feels more stable in the turn at higher rpm because the lean angle is set and it doesn't want to change because of the increased gyroscopic effect. For me on the S1000rr it can feel more stable at a higher rpm (lower gear) in a slow tight turn like the last few turns at Streets of Willow or Turn 9 at ACS, less reactive to rider movement or rough throttle inputs because the lean angle doesn't change as easily, and the more immediate throttle response when picking up the gas helps me to get better throttle control. Feeling a desire or need to have some throttle on when ENTERING a turn tells you something about your entry speed, do you remember what?
  7. 1 point
    Higher RPM in a corner does make a difference in motorcycle handling. Take a look at this article: https://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2182 There is also the effect of greater engine braking approaching the turn, which may have allowed you to shorten your braking distance, or use less brake and get a more accurate entry speed.
  8. 1 point
    This particular item, in my opinion, is a great example of something that is not a matter of who is right and wrong as much as what works for one rider versus another, depending on that riders bike and their physical build and flexibility. Different bikes have different rider handlebar heights and distance from the seat, different shaped tanks, different rearset heights and configurations, etc. and that all impacts how the rider can hang on, and hang off. Even if you just narrow it down to sportbikes, you can look at a Ducati gas tank versus a Yamaha gas tank and see that rider lock on will not be the same from one to the other. And of course, a 6'3" 180 lb rider would fit on a bike differently than a 5'1" 180 lb rider. You can go to any track day and see LOTS of riders hanging their butt WAYY off the seat, even riders who are riding at a slow pace in the beginner group. Very often you will ALSO see those riders propping themselves up with their inside arm, and/or crossing their head and upper body BACK over the tank to the other side, so they really aren't shifting any weight to the inside after all. (OK, gallery, what is wrong with propping yourself up with the inside arm?). Some riders are strong enough and flexible enough (and tall enough!) to find a position where they hang off more than half their butt, without causing any unwanted bar input, unstable lower body lock, or excess fatigue - but for MOST riders, half a butt cheek is a much better starting point to create a stable, functional and effective body position. At the school we have a great off track exercise where we put a rider on a bike and work with them one-on-one to find a body position that works for them, along with educating them along the way about what is important about body position - what is the point of hanging off, how to do it (if desired), and how to get a good, comfortable, solid position that works, and then practice it. Just like you say above - knowing not only what to do, but also understanding why.
  9. 1 point
    Hey everyone, Been a while since I've been on the forum to post but I always enjoy reading all of the discussions on here. I've been working on my BP a lot this past year and have made some good progress. One thing that I am having an issue with is consistency. I am still having to remind myself to get farther back into the seat so that I can get my knee out effectively and grip the tank with my outside thigh. So my question is how much weight are we supposed to keep on the actual seat? So when we have a one cheek hang off, is there supposed to still be any weight on that cheek or should all of the weight be on our pegs? I catch myself having all my weight on my pegs when cornering which doesn't always allow me the ability to open my hips out into the turn becuase I'm having to support my weight. Any help is always appreciated and thanks in advance.
  10. 1 point
    On a more practical note, 60 degree weather here was a nice change of pace. another hour or so of riding a loop that I use to practice, I find myself getting comfortable after crashing last year a couple times at the track and recovering from injury (broken clavicle). i focused on a stable strong body position (one cheek off, torso hips open slightly) to make my countersteering input (getting low on the tank helps me to push out not down). Then, as I enter the turn heading to the apex, I slowly drop my elbow and head into position as I clip the “apex.” Remembering to pick up the throttle as soon as i can see my exit point. The faster and wider my vision is, the earlier I can apply the throttle. For me, it takes a conscious effort to sit my backside down through the corner but I find that sitting back a bit with about that fist between me and the tank helped me relax and ride the bike rather than “fight” it.
  11. 1 point
    That’s all I’m trying to do, too. but all this talk of logic and reasoning is giving me a headache. let me ask you something. how does one know who is right and who is wrong? If mathematics cannot fully explain the way a motorcycle steers, what makes someone so sure they are right and others are wrong? I agree that much of the internet is a big wasteland of misinformation. I am a professional by training and (like, you) spent some considerable time in secondary education after high school (13years for me, yikes!). I am not unfamiliar with textbooks and classroom and learning. Last 5 years were in hands on training learning my craft, I am not unfamiliar with the physical aspect of acquiring new skills. While I would no sooner tell someone to go to any internet forum for information I trained in, I realize that if carefully selected, there IS a place to look for this information. I am also grateful for any information I can glean. Just wish it wasn’t so shrouded in mystery sometimes.
  12. 1 point
    The bowl is FUUUUNNNN, seems like the best place to get more speed, at least compared to the others you mentioned. It is scary as hell trying to go faster where you crest that hill, where it is blind and off- camber! Which direction were you riding the track, CCW?
  13. 1 point
    Hey all! Arizona Motorsports Park on Sunday April 15th! If you want to join just let me know andddd we can set goals of the day together! Trying to beat 2:07... COME PLAY!
  14. 1 point
    That’s ironic you link the wiki article. I have read it. they describe countersteering by weight shifting and being able to initiate turns by making the bike lean right or left through peg weighting. You may not change the center of mass very much, but the fact that bike is now leaned, it induces the front wheel to swivel and create the countersteering input. ‘They point out that the movement is minor the heavier the vehicle is, but might this be what is best in the middle of a turn to hold a line if needed? its not that I don’t believe in countersteering, it obviously is the most effective way of getting to your lean angle quickly. I just wanted input on how much weight I should have on the seat vs crouching on the pegs. Now that you’ve made it somewhat clear, I can make my adjustments. i went out for a ride and found a nice feeling of stability cornering when firmly seated on the bike. And I was surprised at how much I was actually squatting on the pegs before and how hard it was to break the habit the faster I entered. I still felt like I wanted to be up on the pegs as it felt I was in better control of the bike, but I know this is not my goal. Maybe it’s a survival reaction, like I’m ready to jump off if I slide. Lol. my goal is to be in position before the corner. Enter the corner firmly seated in good position to apply the initial countersteering input. Get to my lean angle without moving my body position around to upset the bike. Then, pick up the apex and apply gradual throttle to settle the suspension, then the exit point, maybe at this point move the upper body or weight the outer peg or counter steer to get the bike up and out of the lean.
  15. 1 point
    I see so much of myself here that I felt I needed to follow the discussion.
  16. 1 point
    Hi All Thanks for letting me join in. Had a look at some of the chats and lots of quality info in here. Made the trip over to California a couple of years ago to do levels 1 & 2 at Willow Springs - and it was epic! Excited about coming back over this October for some more of your amazing weather and to find out how truly awful I've become at turning left and right on a bike ;-) (just kidding coaches!) Looking forward to picking up good tips here and hopefully I can contribute along the way too...
  17. 1 point
    Since the conditions were a bit wet, and tires were cold, it could be that the bike DID highside but just not as violently as in the video. I'm thinking that if the tire slid out to the rear, but then regained traction (perhaps over an oily patch on the pavement), it could flip it back over to the right but without that violent upward launch, because neither front nor rear tire would have as much grip as what we see in the video on dry pavement. However, I think the scenario John describes above sounds very plausible - even if the wheel just was lifted up a bit by the spring as you went over it, that could take away the resistance on the bars and your countersteering pressure (to lift the bike up out of its lean) would suddenly be too much and cause to the bars to turn too much to the left, so that as the tire lands back on the pavement it would countersteer you into the ground on the right, as John says above. I have had a similar experience on a dirt bike, hitting a round rock mostly hidden under some loose sand - I was leaned a bit to the left and coming up out of a turn, the front wheel was lifted up by the rock and when it came down it slammed me over on the right side. Did you have any sensation of the rear wheel slipping, sliding out, or coming around on you, or any recollection of the bars twisting, or of losing "feel" from the front tire?
  18. 1 point
    Dylan brought up exactly the point one of the riding coaches at Grattan pointed out to me. My entry speeds are too low, so I'm grabbing a handful of throttle to make up for it. This is what I would like to work on at my next CSS visit (CODE Race in October)... The plot below is also MO, but from my DAIR suit instead of the BMW logger. It let me overlay my S1000RR lap (blue) with my other bike (red-Daytona 675R, running Dunlop Q3s). Sorry, the turn numbers are different from the BMW log. I learned all the tracks on my Daytona, and I know I need to adjust my braking points and entry speeds for getting more out of the S1000RR and slicks, but you can see in the overlay that I'm basically riding the two bikes the same, just accelerating and braking harder on the straights with the S1000RR. I'm actually faster through the chicane and keyhole (turns 10 and 11) with the Daytona, and this seems like a mental issue I need to sort out, as the S1000RR should be able to the do the same thing!
  19. 1 point
    MOTORRAD tested a ZX-7R (so a long time ago) stock and with 4 inch riser. Eveybody went significantly faster through the slalom tests with the taller bars. The less experienced riders gained more than the experienced racer. After doing a ton of laps, pushing himself to his limits, the racer finally managed to set the fastest time around the race track with the stock bars - it was a pride thing for him - but it took a lot more effort to ride with the lower handlebars. Take a look at the handlebars used in the early Superbikes AMA days. Pretty tall and especially wide to gain leverage. Now look at the handlebars of Kenny Schwantz' RG500. That's a bike only 285 lb light, yet Kevin still had wide and tall bars compared to most of his competitors. In my humble opinion, you would love moving the handlebars up.
  20. 1 point
    I've always struggled with this as well. I feel like I am always putting way too much weight on the inside peg when I corner. On the street I am riding a sport touring bike (FJR1300) with somewhat limited ground clearance, so hanging off on spirited rides through the twisties has the immediate benefit of keeping hard parts from scrapping (other than the peg feelers which I occasionally grind on). I think I am just not locked in with the outside leg well enough. I am usually in textile riding gear and the tank is slippery. I probably need stomp grips or similar to help hold on. I think this probably means I am also not as light on the bars as I should be. By the way speaking of light on the bars, how about this guy? Elbow down with one hand
  21. 1 point
    Can you do a calf raise to push your outside knee firmly into the tank, and your foot firmly down on the peg? If you can get your knee locked in tightly on the tank that gives you an additional pivot point. The heelguard can definitely help stabilize your foot position; are you trying to push weight down onto it, or are you trying to use it to keep your foot from coming up off the peg, or something else? Does your heelguard provide good grip? Some (like the carbon fiber ones) can be slippery.
  22. 1 point
    Yup, I read that section again when thinking over a response to the original question above. Reading it with that specific question in mind gave me a new perspective on it, and I got more out of it than I had before. I can't tell you how many times I've read Twist of the Wrist II but as my riding has changed my understanding of various parts of the book has evolved to new levels, which says a heck of a lot about the book, because it is as valuable to me as an active racer as it was when I was a barely-intermediate rider. Amazing.
  23. 1 point
    Do you have a copy of Twist of the Wrist II? Chapter 19, Pivot Steering, goes into specific detail about weight distribution on the seat and pegs, explains what to do, how to do it, and why, with specific explanations and examples of the effects on the bike. It's far more complete and informative than what could be typed here. Take a look at that if you can and let us know what you think, or if you have any additional questions! BTW, if you are like me and want answers as fast as possible, Twist of the Wrist II is available as an e-book now, here is a link to it on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-High-Performance-Motorcycle-ebook/dp/B00F8IN5K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461194283&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist+II+kindle