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Showing most liked content since 09/20/2017 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Inspired by the mystery of what to do and not do that is involved in wet riding, I thought I'd start a collaborative list of differences and limitations in riding in the two environments. To start what we know: You cannot Quick Turn the same You cannot brake as hard You cannot accelerate as hard mid-corner Anything else?
  2. 1 point
    A couple of other things to be cautious about. 1. Puddles. Not only because of the hydroplaning potential. Hit one at speed and all the water in the puddle nearly instantaneously will soak you and add lots of weight to you. 2. Tar snakes and patches. Not all traction is created equal. Tar snakes will cause a lot more traction issues when they are wet. Some patched areas have more or less traction than the main part of the track. 3. Visibility. Visor fogging (easily fixed), Mist from other bikes, fog and rain on your visor can reduce visibility. Use a clear shield at all times to avoid this and preferably a clear windshield on your bike to maximize visibility. The straights are a gigantic wind powered windshield wiper for your helmet if you stick your head up in the air stream and move it from side to side. 4. Slippery when wet. Controls, pegs, tanks and other parts of the bike are not as easy to hold onto when your bike is wet. Be aware.
  3. 1 point
    Personally I love riding in the rain. Less traffic and at the end of the day it's like having your own private track when everyone packs up and leaves early. When other riders are angry and horrified about the R word I'm thinking "heck yea"! Some of the things that change in my riding in the rain. 1. Braking. Earlier, lighter, longer. Stretch out the braking zone and leave yourself a buffer just in case. 2. Lean angle. Less is more. You stay on the fatter part of the tire and maintain more traction. Hang WAY off the bike to reduce lean angle. The more you hang off even at slower speeds keeps you on the more stable part of the tire. 3. Line. It's critical to use ALL of the track available to flatten out the corners as much as possible. 4. Less aggressive quick steer. I have found that you absolutely still can quick steer in the rain if you stay reasonable with it. I worried the heck out of a CSS coach when he assigned me the quick steer drill in the rain. I performed the drill too. I even got a hug when I came back in one piece. 5. Throttle. You have to be a lot easier on the throttle especially when the bike is leaned over. On "analog" bikes once the bike is straight up and down you can use the throttle to "sample" traction. Give it gas and you can feel where the tire wants to spin just a bit. That is the fine line of where the traction ends. Don't cross the line especially when leaned over. (I would approach this with caution!). On bikes like the S1000RR in the right mode the bike will protect you for the most part on the gas. I find that I prefer sport mode or higher in the rain but rain mode is more protective and best to start out with. 6. Smooth counts. Abrupt and sloppy inputs that are ignored because of mega grippy tires are not tolerated at all by the bike in the wet. Stuff to watch out for! 1. Curbing. It's fine to run over curbing in the dry but in the wet that stuff becomes really slick. You have WAY less traction than you do in the dry on painted parts. 2. Panic. If you end up overdoing it don't panic!!!! With less traction the bike is much less willing to be forgiving for sloppy and abrupt inputs. If you enter a corner too fast just extend your braking past the optimal turn point and use the track you have available. Bring the bike down to a manageable speed and turn where you can. Yes you essentially "blow" the corner but by using the track you have you keep it on the pavement. 3. Tires. It's COMPLETELY true what was said about tire temps earlier. Your tires won't maintain temp. Not only are you dealing with the slick surface created by a wet track you are doing it essentially on cold tires. I set a cold pressure and leave it there. You can even experiment a bit with dropping the pressure but I'm not really sure it helps much and can potentially make the bike feel a bit mushy and imprecise if you overdo it. You still won't get a lot of heat in the tires. 4. Your physical condition. Riding in the rain seems easier but you do still get tired. Since you aren't sweating like crazy the fatigue sneaks up on you. I rode every single session of a wet track day only to figure out during the last session that I was a lot more fatigued than I realized. This fatigue can be both mental and physical. Stay sharp!
  4. 1 point
    4. Your visor doesn't let you see as well. 5. The rubber of your tires is cooled down and the internal pressure decreases. 6. The feel of your brakes may change, as the temperature of discs and pads is never as high. 7. The feel of your hands and fingers is different under wet leather.
  5. 1 point
    The overall grip is reduced so anything relying on tire grip has to be backed off considerably - can't lean over as far, can't brake or accelerate as hard, actions must be smooth and gradual so you have time to feel out the traction. And, of course a variable surface (some areas wetter/slicker than others) makes it even more challenging. I don't know much about this source but here is an article I saw that seems like a decent summary: https://lifeatlean.com/riding-in-the-wet/
  6. 1 point
    Thanks, everyone. Of course, when you're slow the improvements come in big steps. I'm not really fast yet but by the end of the day, the way I was going through the esses was probably the best I've ever felt on a bike.
  7. 1 point
    I thought I knew how beneficial it would be and I thought I knew what I wanted to get out of it. I was kinda wrong on both counts. The personal consultant approach makes the leap between L3 and L4 huge. Take what we all know about CSS coaches. They're well versed in the hangups regular humans have in riding motorcycles fast and they're incredibly skilled at breaking down those barriers and knowing what the riders need to become better. Now, take those skills and remove the confines of teaching 5 new skills in a day and just let them have the time to fix whatever needs fixing and that's the difference between L3 and L4. I was at SoW. I was struggling at the kink and it turned out the problem was actually starting at the turn-in for 8. This was nice but the next revelation was that I was turning too slowly. It never felt like it to me because I was able to hit my marks at the speed I was riding. But much like the previous issue, the solution was not what I expected. I thought once I had more pace, I'd turn more quickly. But once they got me to really turn more quickly, I found that I had to up my pace. Again, the solution to a known problem was far from intuitive. After circling SoW who knows how many times at basically the same pace (better form each time but never more pace), being forced to do quick-turn correctly (in my case, push-pull) forced me to approach the corners with more pace because if had turned more quickly at the same entrance speed, of course, I would have early apexed. This one change got me 9 seconds. Next year I'm going to find a stretch of 3 or 4 days at SoW and book multiple days at once. Primary focus (I think) will be T1. Can't wait.
  8. 1 point
    Have a look at Twist of the Wrist II, Chapter 13 "Steer for the Rear". The fourth paragraph, in particular, may shed some light on the situation.
  9. 1 point
    This is so good I'm so happy to hear. I'm running a Yoga teacher training in Perth this month and found myself comparing the CSS vision exercises from level too to the concentration exercises we have in the more traditional forms of Yoga. There's so many cross overs - what we do with the body is obvious but the control of the mind is just as relevant. So good
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I love this topic. One thing that is not debatable is that the physics is real, the question then remains does it have more of an effect than the geometry or is it a secondary force having little actual effect? I pulled this out of the article because it is the exact point I depart the physics; "This moment tends to tilt the motorcycle in the opposite direction from the steering motion; for this reason, to curve into a direction during fast driving, the rider exerts a quick rotation of the handlebars in the opposite direction. The higher the velocity of handlebar rotation W, the higher will be the moment that tends to incline the motorcycle into the opposite direction." When you turn the front tire it is the tire working against the ground driving in a new direction that causes the bike to lean, acting through the steering head and gravity pulling the now out of balance bike to the ground. What proof can I offer? How about a race bike exiting a corner with the front wheel an inch off the ground and the front wheel turned having little effect? Being a wheelie expert I have long played with front wheel gyroscopic effect to turn the bike with the front wheel in the air. I can say with a high degree of certainty that if the tire is not touching the ground counter steering has little effect, or the exact and total effect of precession. With the tire on the ground the gyroscopic effects are completely secondary and never even catch up to the effect the tire creates in the lean angle of the bike. Another point is if you take the gyroscopic effect as the end all for turning the bike how do you reconcile the fact that once the bike leans from the steering input the front wheel driven by trail will turn into the corner past center to balance the bike on the radius generating an even greater precessional force that should if you assume it leaned it in the first place immediately stand the bike up! DOOOOHHHHHH. Will Eikenberry
  12. 1 point
    As I have stated in the R1 forum lengthy and technical discussion on CS vs BS, additional evidence that gyroscopic precession is inconsequential to steering a motorcycle can be found in the common experience that lighter wheels/tires (which have a lesser polar moment of inertia) are easier to steer, despite the fact that by virtue of their decreased rotational mass and polar moment of inertia, they exert a lesser gyroscopic precession force on the vertical axis to lean the bike over.
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