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Showing most liked content since 03/30/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 like
    I am working COTA MotoGP/MotoAmerica this year in flagging/communications. Arrive on Wednesday night and full schedule Thurs-Sun but lot's of fun. Then I have most of the east coast MotoAmerica races set. Being on track (well off to side of track) is definitely best seat in house.
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    It's "bad" weather when MotoGP doesn't run- Ha!
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    To get the best experience of the racing (throughout the field), watch it on the screen. But going to the track gives you an entirely different experience - the 'ambience' thing. And finally ... there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing!
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    In the photos above, the one with the rider down low, it was brought up that his head (and maybe a little of the torso) is not as far to the inside. I think that is where diff in lean angle comes from. As for street applicablity, I for sure don't hang off when riding on the street (w/lower body). One reason is I'm just too lazy. But...if one can take out some lean angle (use less), and in particular do it quickly if needed by getting the upper body more to the inside, this can be a good thing: water across the road, sand/dirt, or some other traction reducing issue.
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    My theory is that the top out spring in my 2006 CBR1000RR fork is not only progressive but it's variable.Full range of travel yields 16mm of preload adjustment from all the way out at 0 to full stop.At full out, the installed preload was measured at 8mm. At 6 turns it's at 9mm and at 12.5 turns it's at 15mm.Someone please explain to me what's going on here. Aftermarket springs are 260mm, stock was 217mm (from memory). The preload spacer was cut from 100mm to 73mm
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    In practice I feel that a higher body position causes more side movements and stress on the rear tires. The air turbulence on the upper body increases the problem. Can you imaging riding a 90mph corner with that body position? Also I'm not clear about the physics in the illustrations: in the last example I understand the center of gravity has more leverage because it's taller, but it's also farther away from the center of the tire and the bike axe. Isn't that another source of leverage that works against the bike stability?
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    Both reshaping to a flatter, more horizontal shape, and more grip. Both helps me stay in place and be less likely to put unwanted weight on the bars. I used suede on my seats on top of closed cell foam, which was sanded to shape.
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    Engineers are constantly striving to move motorcycle CG lower. I'm wondering if this CG - BP issue isn't the full story.
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    I found 2 exercises made a huge difference in my ability to ride without fatigue. They're both hitting the same area so you can do either one. Romanian deadlift and back hyper-extension. You can buy a kettle bell or some dumbbells for the deadlift and do them at home. If you belong to a gym, the hyper-extension allows for greater isolation but they both work great. Start light and do 20 reps a day for a couple of weeks. I found it not only made riding easier but also improved my posture. I'm never tired, my wrists never hurt, my back is strong enough stay low and move side to side without issues. Interestingly, I my fitbit records my rides as cardio.
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    Pretty dang good list from Misti, hard to top. My kids don't ride! Kids in the city these days, things are changing. I did a career day, took one of the School S1000rr's and went to my daughter's school, rode the bike right up to the classroom, and rode it down the (exterior) hallway when I left, daughter on back. The point is, aside from entertaining myself at her school, when I asked how many rode bicycles, the majority said no...wow, blew me away. CF
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    When I first started riding it was intuitive to hook the heel of my boot onto the peg, right where my instep was. By my 2nd trackday I began to drag toes. I heard it repeated many times about standing on the balls of your feet and now needed to change to avoid the abovementioned problem. There's a video in YouTube of Troy Corser teaching instep and I see the merits of both techniques. Watching the Aragon WSBK race, I'm now convinced that I've seen enough that the trend is now back to insteps; possibly even hybrid method. I'm not a "me too" type of guy but it looks like Jonny Rea uses balls on the inside leg and instep on his outside leg; straightaway he's on instep. I see the merits of instep for straights, it requires less energy. My observation is that balls of feet on inside leg does 2 things: 1- Avoids above problem and 2- more leverage for countersteering. The con is that it's more to think about/do and I'd have another habit change to endure. What are your experiences with foot placement?
  12. 1 like
    Thanks for inspiring me to look deeper! Okay, so shortly after our conversation, I began to test rear edge grip coming out of the corners. I had a lot more grip/drive than I had given my bike credit for. The front did feel a little unstable but the rear was hooked up. I got home and noticed the rear was chewed up and went to the very edge. Weird for road riding bc I wasn't leaning any more than I had been. I'm guessing just an issue of putting more load on the rear squishing the tire more and getting the contact patch all the way to the edge. Anyway, I remembered your post and started looking for info about improving drive out of corners. It was recommended to bump up the reb and comp in the front to keep the front from lifting under throttle. I started there (2 clicks up from my baseline and equal to Triumph's recommended Race setting). The difference was amazing. So much more stability and control. It feels so good now. But then last night, I took a look at my rear shock settings. I was in full comfort mode in the rear, 5 or 6 clicks from Race. So I decided to give it a shot and had my first chance to test it on the way to work this morning. It feels fantastic. Can't wait to get back on the track and beat Josh Hayes. survive in the B group without getting run over.
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    are the "articles" archived? i remember one a few months ago (about weighting the foot pegs) and i never saved the email. gotta believe that good stuff is saved somewhere... and i'd like to re-read that email.
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    I thought I understood apex orientation, but in a school not long ago, my L4 consultant used one of the new iPad visual aid tools and I discovered an aspect of the technique I wasnt using and it allowed me to enter AO corners faster and with more confidence.
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    Eirik, very nice list! OK, I'll add one that comes to mind. Once on a slippery turn at the track, I turned it in, and I was reaching a little with my right leg (it was a bit stiffer than I'd like to normally be). Then the front end just went, tucked. I had enough mental "time" to think to myself, "Ah _____, I've just crashed." I didn't do anything, but keep the knee a little stiff. I didn't roll on or off, didn't do anything with the bars. And the front came back! I think I must have been laughing and yelling at the same time.
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    It's the north course. layout: http://virnow.com/track/configurations/ and video:
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    This depends on the ABS system. The complaints I have heard about ABS on track are that it is too aggressive, kicks on too early, or does not allow the rear wheel to lift or slide. So, a lot will depend on your preferences, the adjustability of your ABS system, and which bike you are riding (meaning, how good is the ABS). On the new S1000rr, the aggressiveness of the ABS depends on the rider mode you set. In Rain and Sport mode, the ABS will prevent the back tire from sliding or lifting off the ground, which is great for most riders. In the Race mode, it is difficult to activate the ABS, you have to be braking REALLLY hard (so hard that the rear wheel is in the air and the front is either sliding or about to) to get it to come on, and in Slick mode I haven't heard anyone say they had it activate while riding unless they set out specifically to try forcing it to come on. You can also turn the ABS completely off if you choose. A big plus point for ABS is that it can save your bacon if you make a mistake, like grabbing the brake too abruptly, or braking too hard while leaned over, or encounter bumpy or slick pavement while braking. I personally have had both types of experiences with ABS - once someone made an error in front of me and came right across my front tire. I grabbed the front brake hard and fast and managed to miss the other rider; I'm pretty sure the ABS kept me from locking up the front wheel which may have saved me from crashing. But, in another case, I was braking really hard at the end of a straight and the ABS kicked in, reducing braking when I really needed it and scared the heck out of me. However, that was on an earlier model year bike and in Sport mode so I was pushing the threshold for that setting. I know for sure the newer model in Slick mode (or probably even in Race mode) would not have intervened, because I have tried it. In short, if you are really good at braking and plan to brake at the very limits of front tire traction, are OK with the rear wheel lifting, and/or want to be able to use the back brake to slide the rear end into corners, you will probably have to turn off the ABS. But anything short of that, as long you are riding a recent model bike with a good ABS system, you will probably never notice it and will be better off having it, as a safety feature.
  19. 1 like
    Unfortunately, I had an interesting lesson in overdoing a quick-turn at Barber the last day of CSS that I think is relevant to this discussion. Unfortunately it resulted in a crash. I was riding hard attempting to catch up to my coach who was chasing another student and had the right side of my tires nice and warm as a result. However, the extreme left edge of my tire was still relatively cold (another of the many lessons from this crash) and I wasn't aware of that. Coming into the final (left) corner prior to the front straight, I quick flicked the bike in at a very high speed (both the flick and the entry speed) and almost immediately lost the front. Fortunately, nobody was hurt and damage was minimal. The quick-turn lesson from this, after much discussion with several coaches, was: the fast rate of steering didn't DIRECTLY cause the crash, it was the cold edge of the tire once I got it there. The tire was able to take the FORCE of the quick-steering just fine, but the reason the quick-flick was an issue was that I didn't get the chance to feel indications that the tire edge was cold in time to stop leaning the bike over. Had I steered the bike more slowly, I would have been able to feel the cues the cold edge would have given me in time to prevent the complete loss of traction. The bigger issue was really my awareness of the cold edge on the less used side of the tire, but since this thread is about quick-turning, I thought the quick-turn lesson would be a good one. This is a big reason you don't quick-turn on cold tires... It's less because they won't take the force while steering, and more about giving yourself a chance to feel where the cold tire traction limit is before you exceed it. Benny
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    I know how you feel when you say that you will need to quick turn the bike until you break traction to find the limit. I used to feel the same about lean angle when cornering, I didn't know the limit so I thought the only way to find it would be to crash... But that kind of thinking is just plain wrong - and dangerous! I got a good bit of advice from Brendan Clarke (he won the Australian Superstock 1000 championship last year), I asked "how do I find the cornering limit? How do I know how much I can lean?" The answer is very straightforward and there couldn't be a more logical method when you think about it. The answer was to simply keep increasing your cornering speed gradually, bit by bit. If you enter a corner at 100km/h on one lap, and observe that the bike was settled with no problems then then next time around you can enter the corner a 102km/h, if all is well then continue entering the corner faster, 104, 106, 108km/h... (it helps to keep the same braking marker to avoid changing too many variables, just set your speed and maintain it until the corner, then you can more easily focus on your entry speed and turn point.) Actually that may be best to learn how fast you can enter a corner, but for actually practicing quick turn you probably don't want to change your entry speed, just move your turn point further back each time... even less variables that way, much easier. If you take it gradually like that you won't ride over your limit. When the bike is getting close to the maximum cornering ability it will give you some warning signs before you completely lose traction - for example you'll get a bit of a slide, a bit of a wobble, you'll feel it's not as stable etc. The thing to remember is that you won't just 'lose traction' in a corner. (Of course assuming clean track surface, warm tyres, correct use of bike controls etc.) There is a 'traction zone' that moves from static friction to sliding friction, it's not just one or the other - there's a transition in between. It helped me to stop thinking primarily about lean angle in a turn and instead think about the feeling of traction, which will in turn determine your lean angle. You can use the same method for the quick turn, if you use a certain steering rate on one lap, and it all goes okay - just increase the steering rate by a certain amount on the next lap, then again, practice, practice... It sounds like you may have a hard time with the other riders you're grouped with, but I'd just try and focus on my own thing and let them ride around you. Even better if you can move into a slower group just to take it easy and practice some drills.
  21. 1 like
    For me finding a turnpoint and quickflipping the bike goes hand in hand, whenever my steering gets slower I follow lines and not points any more, and following lines eventually makes me tired and less concentrated.