Hawkrt

Don't spend the money on a slipper clutch, yet. Get good with the one you have. Timing and practice is all you need (don't we all). I had the same problem at Laguna Seca this year, not downshifting correctly. Trying to go through too many gears down at one time without getting the engine up to speed to match the wheel speed. Hence your hopping around? Try going slow to go fast. Keith and my instructor worked (tirelessly) to get my timing down. Roll off, brake, clutch, downshift/blip (hard to get the rpm's up), catch the rpm's on the downside as you let the clutch out, and viola', there you have it. Okay, don't let off the brake or move it closer/farther away, keep you turn pt in sight, set the right speed for the turn, get your steering input correct to set the angle, get you body position set before all this, etc... School is better than a slipper clutch anyday. Sitting on the bike on a stand, doing it over and over, listening to the engine and feeling what it's like helps. Doing it slowly at first to get the timing down really helps when the speed goes up and you need it. I'm still screwing it up (ala the last track day) but keep working to get it right. When you do it, it's sweet and you wonder what the big deal was. When you don't , you immediatly get into a SR and know what the big deal is. It'll come. Just keep after it.

Here's a question for the masses. I use Michelin's on my Honda F4i track bike. I tried Dunlops, but just like the feel of the Michelin's better on turn in's and the stability they seem to give me. I was wondering if anyone else is running Michelin's and if so, what type and what combination are you using? S2's, M2's, H2's front and back or a combination of the two. I know a lot of this has to do with the track, temps, riding level, etc. Here in the Northwest, our tracks run from fairly smooth at Portland International to choppy and inbetween. Any ideas and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Rob

I saw this writeup and saved the two articles about oils. I can't remember if and what their recommedation was about changing over. I also can't see the manufacturer rejection a claim if they cannot prove that the oil was the cause of the failure. There was a recent writup in this month's Sport Rider mag about this very thing. As for the color, mine looks brand new usually when I change out the oil and filter. Good idea about cutting the filter open to see what's inside. I already use a magnetic plug to look for shavings and the like. I know the school has changed over and would still like to find out what their experiences have been with synthetics. Thanks, Rob

Here's a question for Will more than likely. I'm running a 2002 Honda CBR 600 F4i for my track bike. It has a total of about 3000 miles on it. After every two track days, I do a complete oil and filter change. I'm using a K&N filter with Honda Oil 10W-40 for the track. I haven't noticed any oil usage by the bike, even running it fast in hot weather. My question is would I gain anything either in performance or durability with this engine by switching to a snythetic oil at this point. I know you use Silkolene at the school and would like your opinion if the 1) oil change interval is correct, too much or not enough and 2) going snythetic now is right for the bike? Thanks for the help and I'm looking forward to seeing you guys in March at Laguna Seca for III and IV. Rob Spero