bashir0505

I'm glad to have watched the twist 2 video as you sometimes come across bad advice online i.e. releasing the clutch slowly on downshifts, or the bike's rear squatting on acceleration... Anyway, as a side note, I came across this video from 2010 of Will doing clutchless downshifts on the first gen S1000RR, and way before auto blipper. Clutch hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9ExUQYu0-k Throttle hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5afgz9ZebLI Another unrelated thing I found interesting in this video was how high the forks were in the triple clamp and how little preload was being used. The preload adjuster is all the way out. Joys of the first gen S1000; lots of experimenting.

This is why I like reading CSS forums. Always learning something. Sorry for being off-topic. It just occurred to me that this is probably why at The Ridge, between the double apex 8a and 8b, I would always lose traction as my rear slicks went over the seams in the track. Turn 8 is the first right hander in a very long time (not really counting turn 3 as it's short). Loads of time for the tire to lose heat and its happening when you're hard on the throttle driving out of 8a and trying to get a good run up the hill. We worked on my lines and trying to keep the bike within the inner seam, but I just couldn't corner that tightly/precisely. My solution was to carry maintenance throttle for longer and change the timing of bike pickup + throttle roll on.

This is a great topic and yes, there is much to learn from racing games. So I have a PS4 and play car racing games (Project Cars 2, Assetto Corsa, GT Sport) with a steering wheel (Logitech G29). The single big advantage I have noticed is vision. Everytime I drive I consciously practice the wide-vision drill that I notice myself doing it without intending to. This immensely helps with tunnel vision and with taking in a ton of visual information ahead of you. I'm much better able to look for my braking point, turning point, apex, exit, and "long" before hitting any of those points you pick up your eyes and look for the next point while still using the peripheral to make sure you're hitting all the points as intended. Just as explained in the TOTW books. If you can get your hands on any car racing games (on a racetrack), even with a controller (as opposed to a steering wheel), turn off the racing lines and start working on picking out reference points based on how your virtual car brakes and accelerates, and work on vision. Oh and don't use the chase cam view, use the cockpit or helmet or hood cams.

Thanks for mentioning that Cam won the MotoAmerica championship. I was just texting with a friend a couple of weeks ago and we honestly couldn't find on the internet who the 2019 winner was. Not on google, not on Wiki, not on Motoamerica's own website. That for me is a big difference between BSB and MotoAmerica, the popularity, the interest and the marketing.

How's the suspension on this bike? I imagine the ohlins feels great. What changes have you had to make from going from one track to another across the country? Did you even bother setting sag? The HP4Race is much lighter, is the chassis size the same? Or does the adjustable seat height, rear sets, clip-ons make it feel different in comfort from an s1000rr? Do you notice a significant difference in drive for the different tracks at different elevations? I heard the world superbikes are really sensitive to this. How have you adjusted your riding for this lighter, easier steering, deeper braking bike? Are you hanging off differently? Are you carrying more brakes into the corners because you feel more stable? Since it can handle higher corner speeds than a regular 1000cc, are you prioritizing going around corners faster like a 600cc or are you riding it just like the school teaches with focus on exit drive? Or perhaps just a mix of both?

Good points. The commentators did say he lost the front. Upon replay it does look like the front slipped then regripped, but by then the wheels were out of line.

*MOTOGP ASSEN 2017 SPOILER ALERT* So if you watched the motogp race from yesterday you obviously saw Vinales crash in the chicane from change of direction. Catching up on news this morning, here's what Crutchlow and Dovi (who were right behind when the crash occurred) said (From David Emmett's article on asphaltandrubber): “Viñales was so fast there,” Crutchlow said. “When he was in front of me, he was changing direction so fast that when it picked up and took off, the thing was gone. But obviously he changed direction too fast. We’ve seen that crash quite a few times there over the years.” Dovizioso shared a similar opinion. “I think he was too aggressive in the change of direction, but I’m not sure, I didn’t check the video,” the Italian told us. “It was in front of me, but I was focused on my line at that time, I wasn’t looking at him, so I didn’t see how that crash started.” Here's what Vinales said: “It’s something I cannot explain because I don’t even know how I crashed,” Viñales said after the race. Ironically, he gave away the cause of the crash in his next sentence. “I passed there 2,000 times and don’t crash. Today, I don’t know, I was pushing myself over the limit.” Just as Rossi lost the rear a couple of races ago, it could be something about the Yamaha. Alternatively, I don't know if Vinales was also increasing throttle as the bike changed direction; getting on the throttle too soon is an easy mistake to make. The motogp riders seem to think that changing direction too fast may overcome the ability of the bike (tire+chassis+suspension) to handle!

We have a combination of topics here; the bike setup and the cornering technique. To answer some of the bike setup questions. Yes the sag is set at 33mm front and 35mm rear. I have a 2011 that's a little front heavy so I raised the fork height in order to shift some weight rearward; otherwise there was too much weight in front and could only get a max of 28 at max preload. My forks and shocks have been re-valved as the stock forks would bounce up and down twice even at max rebound and compression settings. The front springs are at 0.95 kg/mm. Even though I feel that the hydraulics and springs are now adequate for my weight, speed and riding ability, there certainly could be some improvement to my pressures, compression and rebound settings. I personally have always favoured shutting off the throttle to steer the bike, then getting back on to introduce maintenance throttle, until corner exit. It works for most corners except the special ones where constant throttle may be better. Yes, every bike is different and the throttle roll on % for maintenance throttle can be different even for different gears... Jaybird, based on the examples you gave, did you mean to ask about the "practical purposes of holding the throttle steady"? Or did I misunderstand the question. For me, there is a certain feeling of balance and grip that comes with maintenance throttle, when the right amount is applied. Anything more or less takes you off your line. I am in the process of swapping these Metzeler M7RR for some Dunlop slicks so my symptoms of improper setup/riding could be different soon.

I'd like to revive this topic as I have add-on questions re: coasting. Dave Moss Coasting is no throttle input at any time other than at or past the apex... May 15, 2015 at 7:59am Note that his definition of costing is no throttle. Mine is no throttle, no brakes. However, below I am using his definition. According to Dave Moss's page on tire wear (click HERE), I have the exact same wear pattern that shows that I am "coasting" even though my riding style is as textbook point and shoot as possible. This section on Coasting explains that it comes from braking as the rear end gets light, unloaded, and bounces around (straight line or trail braking... no difference). Spent the morning doing some research and found a video (click HERE) from Dave Moss where he explains a way to get rid of this wear pattern. It requires getting on the gas (30% or more) even before the turn in. In the comments, he says "brake first, set your entry speed then as you begin to initiate turn in or immediately prior to turn in, set the throttle to 30%" Obviously this is different from the CSS turn-in steps as it could overload the tires to apply throttle and turn input simultaneously. Also of note is that the bike in the video is a Ninja 300 and mine is an S1000RR so that could impact what it takes to overload a tire. My add-on questions are: 1) has anybody seen this wear pattern on their tires? 2) if so, how did you "fix" this coasting problem? By shortening braking distance/time? Turning in with constant throttle as opposed to no throttle?

You know Canada's here.

Cobie I think you're opening up another can of worms here Ideally with a more aggressive roll on whereby front loading is less than 40% and rear is more than 60%, the bike (and line) should run wider. The complex side of this is that tires (both front and rear) slip as you ride/accelerate through a corner. But with an increased amount of throttle and rear slip can lead to a power drift thereby pointing the bike in a tighter line. Kinda like a controlled oversteer. I think it was in the movie "Faster" where they talked about Gary Mccoy winning a motogp race by sliding around so much whereas theory dictates that drifting shouldn't be the fastest way around a racetrack! As if this isn't complex enough, different electronics regulate the rear wheel speed differently. As speed increases, one has to understand how electronics are limiting wheel spin and cutting drive through and out of a corner. And personally, I still don't fully understand how slick mode on the S1000RR works!

Just to clarify, when adding maintenance throttle to achieve the desired 40/60 tire loading, you are in a state of acceleration. Not only are you accelerating fast enough to counteract the slow down from the bike being leaned over but your speed will increase; however not by much. So your line widens but not significantly. Is that correct? And this widening line should become part of your "expected" line through a corner. I don't know if there's a drill to simulate to students on a stationary bike what maintenance throttle roll on should look like under different conditions or speeds.

I think so. I'll find out how it feels when I get to the track in a couple of months.

Most certainly. The nature of the hairpin I'm referring to resembles a double apex. If I may quote TOTW2 without getting sued: "In a double-apex turn you may well roll off the gas to get the bike turned between the two parts of the corner. This allows you to fully and correctly control the throttle on the exit* of the second part of the corner and not be "stuck" with holding the gas steady. In fact, "stuck on the gas" is one of the primary indicators that you have a "bad line". Of course! It violates the throttle rule." 1) Is this saying it's better to roll off the gas completely to turn into the second apex? Then of course start adding throttle after turn in. 2) The second part of the paragraph... is it saying that if you need to stay on the gas in-between both apexes, then one should try a different line that allows for a full roll off as you position for the second apex?

I'm really interested in this topic as well. Steven if you don't mind, I'd like to add the instance that I think this also applies: Hairpins. Generally, there are 2 lines through a hairpin. Some go in wide and apex once on the exit, while some people 2-apex it. In order to 2-apex the hairpin at my local track, it is treated as 2 separate turns with an emphasis on the exit drive. My school training makes me want to go in wide, turn once and hit the late apex, but all the faster riders treat it as 2 corners and make a steering change on the second half to square up the corner and get the drive out like a 1000cc should be picked up. My fear is that if you are adding throttle through the turn, the act of pausing the roll on may upset the bike. Then again by pausing the roll on gently, it would shift the weight to the front, thereby changing the geometry and helping you turn further if you wish to quick turn more. Then continue the roll on when the final steering input is done. So to continue with Steven's question, what is the best technique to lean in further (intentionally) while mid corner and beyond the turning efficiency of a hook turn?