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  2. Haven't ridden one lately, but the older ones (like them overall) seemed a bit top heavy, a factor in steering. I know that was a point the BMW engineers (or so we were told) went to pains to keep low and centralized.
  3. Question for you DL: have you found the stock settings to be good overall? Interested to know what bikes you have tried them on.
  4. Couple questions, are you running correct rear tire size/profile? Do you know if suspension is set with stock settings or has been adjusted? Ifs been adjusted at some point (or you are not sure) look up the stock settings from owners manual and set everything back stock and see how it feels. I have found Q3 and Q3+ to generally sharpen up a bikes handling. How many miles on the bike (and current tires)?
  5. Today
  6. Cobie; I may try 29 in rear next ride (by the way, if not clear, I am referring to PSI cold, not hot after ride).. Even on street I am for more grip (insurance) over mileage anyday. My Q4 just arrived but won't put them on for a few more weeks. I am going to attach a Dunlop tire pressure guideline chart I have (keep in mind, its a GUIDE, your needs will likely vary!) 2019-Road-Race-Tech-Data.pdf
  7. That came through in your original post and I just paraphrased it poorly. Thank again for all your (and Cobie's) insights on this! Wes
  8. It's the 2019 1050cc Speed, 450 lbs wet. Has amazingly planted grip mid corner, just takes a bit of muscle to change directions quickly.
  9. Excellent - thanks for the details on all the things to keep in mind and check moving forward. The bike is nearly new, but I have not had the suspension settings customized to me yet. I do need to get that done.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Remind us, what tires, what bike and what city do you live in?...see if we know anyone near you that can help on the suspension (if you don't already have someone). CF
  12. What year is your bike, and to confirm it's a Speed Triple, not the smaller version? If it's the bike I'm thinking off, it's a pretty heavy bike. As I recall when I rode one a while back, it wasn't a heavy steering bike, but it was a heavy-ish bike to start with. CF
  13. While using both arms certainly could be a workable solution, it does seem excessive to have to use that much force to steer the bike. Have you looked at the suspension and geometry of the bike? It sounds like the front end might either be too high, or too stiff. Here are some thoughts in that area: 1) If the bike is properly set up for you but the suspension could be due for service, consider getting that done, maybe the forks are not traveling freely; check fork travel, fork alignment (are they twisted?), and make sure the steering head moves freely and is in good condition. 2) If you have never had the suspension set up properly for your weight (correct spring rates, setting the sag properly), that would be a great thing to do that may drastically improve the bike's handling 3) If the above are all done, check the compression settings and see if the front end is too stiff - you can put a zip tie on the fork to see how much the fork travels, if the zip tie is never pushed down more than halfway it probably indicates there is too much compression damping, the front is too stiff and doesn't compress enough during cornering to allow easy mid-corner steering adjustments 4) You could try to take out some preload in the front to soften the front and lower it. Take a look at your tires as well - actually this should probably be done before all of the above: check tire geometry - are your tires profiled, causing them to handle differently than when they were new? Are the tires you use designed to be extremely stable in a straight line and possibly therefore not so easy to turn mid-corner? Is the front tire you are using taller than the one the bike was originally set up for? Is your tire pressure within suggested range for that tire and bike? A 600 supersport would be a terrific track weapon, but before spending a few thousand (or more) on that, I would get your current bike to a suspension expert and see if a few hundred dollars spent in that area would get your current bike working better for you, since it sounds like you like that bike pretty well.
  14. I currently ride a Triumph Speed Triple RS that I've used for CSS levels 1-2, and looking forward to 3. I have no experience with super sports, but my Speedie seems to have fairly heavy bar pressure at speed. One of the things that gives me a little trouble on track and street is mid corner line adjustments on decreasing radius corners. The bent angle of my inside arm during cornering body position is not very advantageous when it comes to applying pressure to the inside bar to tighten the line. Target fixation is a constant battle when facing unexpected decreasing radius turns, which of course causes tension in the arms, which makes the bike feel even more stiff. What are the thoughts on engaging the outside arm to help pull on the bar mid corner rather than using only a push on the inside bar? The mechanical advantage would be better, but I've never seen this advocated and curious if I'm setting myself up for bad habits/muscle memory in the future. I generally only engage both arms to push/pull on the bar for quick turn corner entry or chicanes - not so much mid corner. Also just curious...for those of you who have ridden the Speed Triple and super sports - how much lighter and flickable is a 600 class super sport compared to the Speed Triple? Hard to say right now how deep I'll get into track riding. Definitely want to do some track days after CSS level 3, but just wondering if a 600 class super sport would be a more enjoyable, physically easier bike for the track. I do love the Speedie for the street.
  15. I ran 32/32 the other day on street and it was okay...not great and not bad. I think I may go back to Michelin- I don’t feel connected to the road, but also I don’t get to ride this bike often AND the streets here have gotten just awful. I'm definitely in need of some suspension tuning. The bike is all over the place- can’t blame it too much though, streets are wicked. But it did seem to improve at higher speeds (sigh...)
  16. Last week
  17. Glad you found that info helpful, but I do want to clarify a bit - it is not the fact that I have to brake hard that tells me I'm target-fixed - it is the feeling of being COMPELLED to brake, instead of consciously deciding where, when and how much to brake. Have you ever had that feeling that you know you should let off the brake but you are afraid to? Or the 'Oh crap' feeling that makes you want to grab at the brake? Compare that to a familiar corner on a track where you know exactly where and how much you want to brake, and how THAT feels. It is the feeling of compulsion that tells me I have encountered an SR, and I use that sensation as an instant reminder to look in to the apex (or expand my vision with wideview). It has become an nearly immediate reaction now, due to practice. I know you specifically were looking for solutions to surprises on unfamiliar corners, but I have to echo Cobie's sentiments above, on controlling the environment. I totally agree about not riding fast on the street, and I don't do canyon rides anymore. Group rides, especially, were always nerve-wracking for me, once I started riding on the track I stopped riding on the street, it is just so much nicer not having cars on one side and cliffs on the other.
  18. "Loving every 0.001s of it", that is great. Nice collection of bikes to have ridden, lots of horsepower in that list.
  19. We run 31 front, 29 rear on our Q3+. I'd only go higher on the rear if I had a larger person, or riding 2 up. I often hear higher pressures for increase life of the tire/mileage, don't think that wise. After tossing my first bike down the road, partly due to riding the tire way past when I should have, makes one think...what's the smart choice, optimal traction (at least the possibility of it) or a few more miles? I'm somewhat thrifty (or I think so), but that's not a good investment. CF
  20. Hi Pitts, I follow you on all the points above...it's a big subject (the visual skills, and what cause problems with being able to continually keep them working well for you). I"m just going to touch on this with a few comments. I'd say one element in keeping one from target fixing, is familiarity with the environment. Is one less likely to have target fixation on a road/track that is known well? Another will be controlling that environment, at a suitable speed for each person. Some can handle a quicker rate of this than others. Then gradually increasing that speed. Some just go too fast on the street for what I consider a speed that allows for enough margin for error. I just don't go fast on the street any more (had a few close calls, don't care for that). Lastly, what condition is the person in physically at that time? Well fed, well rested, not dehydrated, etc., can have a huge effect on a person's mental state. And the mind is a whole other subject! This are all pretty big stabs at this, so I might just be opening can here :). Best, Cobie
  21. I was told 33 front, 34 rear on Q3+ for "spirited" riding. Have been happy with that, will likely start with same on my Q4's (which should be to me Wednesday).
  22. Hotfoot, that's a great solution, or what I've been calling an antidote, for the SR. It's encouraging to know that it's something I can train myself to do if I've got it spring loaded in my mind to do that. A great aviation coach has famously said "Good judgement comes from experience; and, experience comes from bad judgement." Whenever I'm setting out on a fast paced ride with friends, I remind myself that there's always going to be riders willing to ride faster than me on the street - ride my ride. There's no checkered flags out on a twisty road.. The other reminder is to ride "the pace" has discussed in a couple of articles by Nick Ienatsch (i.e. no charging corners, light brakes all day, fast in the corners, slow in the straights, etc). Fortunately, in doing that I don't have many bad experiences so it really bothered me recently when out with some fast riders in the hillbilly twisties of West Virginia and I got target fixed on the edge of the road in a hot corner. I was kicking myself thinking I know better than that but did it anyway. I hope not to repeat that very often but I'll try a third reminder before I start those rides: Hard on the brakes triggers a focus on the apex.
  23. To answer your question above, yes I do sometimes still catch myself getting target fixed when I enter an unfamiliar corner and think I've come in too fast. My personal solution is that I've trained myself that, whenever I feel compelled to pull the brake (as opposed to doing it in a controlled and conscious way), I look in to the apex. I've associated that feeling of "needing" to brake with being target fixed so now as soon as I feel that desire to pull the brake, I look to the inside to get my eyes moving the right direction.
  24. That's interesting Cobie and thank you for responding. They had a similar exercise at the school my son attended to get his motorcycle license. They were basically teaching that when confronted with a sudden decision to turn (obstacle avoidance) to push the bike down under you dirt bike style to get it turned more quickly. A question for the rider coaches on here - do you still catch yourself getting target fixed on those rare times when you've blown a corner or something surprises you out on the street? If not, what was it that you feel contributed most nulling out that survival reaction? Yours is the only cornering/track day school that I've attended but I can't find any treatment of this topic anywhere else either. It seems like there's great advice out there (look where you want to go and not at what you want to avoid, the bike goes where you look, etc) but I don't see anyone acknowledging that it takes repetition with an anecdote to this SR to train riders to avoid the problem. Looking at motorcycle accident statistics, single vehicle mishaps are way too common and most of those seem to me a rider departing the pavement and hitting something (ditch, fixed object, etc). So it seems that target fixation could be one of the top most dangerous tendencies of motorcyclists and some specific treatment of this would yield some real world results for riders that got the training. Personally, I've got 100's of thousands of street miles and off-road adventure miles and many track days in my experience. I'm a fast intermediate to advanced track day rider. That great amount of experience helps me ride in a way where I don't have this happen to me very often and I feel like I'm pretty good at not taking the bike to someplace that my vision and my thinking hasn't already been. But in all those years of great experience, it hasn't solved this target fixation problem for me and I'm going to guess I'm not the only one. I suspect the answer is somewhere in the comments here about repetition in recognizing when it's not going like I planned and invoking the target fix anecdote - Look....Go. Thoughts?
  25. Higher wet pressure seems counterintuitive but makes sense when pondering. Just can’t wait to see someone’s face when I say this to them- LoL. It would them make sense to open the rebound and compression circuits. Did the Dunlop guy say anything about Q3+ street pressures?
  26. We had an exercise we had run at our military schools: Rider approaches a set of lights, one set on each side. As he goes through a trip light (while looking ahead at a radar board indicating his speed), one light goes off on one side, and he learns to steer the OPPOSITE direction. This was quite an exercise and would be performed at higher and higher speeds. Riders would make up their minds before they got there and often turn in the wrong direction (towards the light). This would train them to hold a wide view visually, not pre-decide which way to go, react and also turn quickly. This was the culminating exercise in an intense 2 day program...often took a little while to gradually get riders to do this at higher and higher speeds. Valuable exercise! CF
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