RonniB

That should bring your chest closer to the tank and your head a bit forward and to the inside. But some of it could be your fit on the bike, if you feel there is a reach to the bars then it's hard to get a good position. If looking from the front, you should be to the inside of the centerline and along side the bikes CoG.. as shown by Marquez and tried by me..

Your shoulders and arms look tense, try letting the inside fall into the apex.

Then you have to train contracting your abs while relaxing the rest of your body. The key is not absolute strenght, but control. You're not to ride around with permanently tight abs, but to be able to tighten them to resist external forces or to stabilize your own input. This will be done with abs and back in conjunction, you tighten your core, to create a solid base for movement or maintaining your position on the bike. If you have issues with how to do that, then go to a proper weightlifting gym, not just a gym, and have a coach help you learn the basics of olympic weightlifting. The whole concept of core control is paramount in that area of sports

For stability, which is what Hotfoot, JohnCBurkis and I have tried to explain in various forms. Imagine you are to push a heavy wheeled container along a pavement, not lift, just push. Do you think your abs contract?? (They do!!). Why is that, for stability, because upper body movement will ruin the connection between the work your legs are doing and the load/resistance of the container.

I had that bike..., my old trackbike was a VFR400/NC30 heavily modified, lightened and well suspended, with 60 ish hp in a perfectly fuelled easyrevving V4 engine. But it was too fragile and spares harder and harder to get, so had to go a 150 kg ready to ride, 100 hp, race focussed bike is ideal

Think of the muscles in your back and your abs, as ratchet straps that support your torso. If you don't tighten them evenly, one will be overtightened. In most cases the lower back contracts to far leading to pain and loss of strenght.

Both reshaping to a flatter, more horizontal shape, and more grip. Both helps me stay in place and be less likely to put unwanted weight on the bars. I used suede on my seats on top of closed cell foam, which was sanded to shape.

It's the first thing I notice*, the throw of the throttle, and then the angle of the levers. So changing and adjusting the components are vital to my comfort, especially grips. I find that soft thin grip, like the pale grey renthals are the best. *seat and pegs too, I recovered every seat on every bike I ever had

Try filming yourself on the bike from behind, when the bike is on a pitstand (and securely tied down), take your time and get into your cornering position. Then review the footage and make some adjustments, try some stuff out, take notice of your shoulders, foot placement and head/neck angle from side to side. On the side that feels good, take note of your lock in points, and try position yourself in the same exact points (of course opposite) on the weak side. Doing this in the garage, with no stress of braking zones, no fellow trackdayer looking at your silly poses and the comfort of shorts and a tshirt, really makes difference. Then put on all your kit when you're happy and make sure that it still works

Logic doesn't apply to motorcycle related decisions, it's your money and you who will ride it!! But if your goal is to go racing, then look at what will be competitive and what seems to dominate the class you want to race in

We all are, that is the beauty of riding. And given that you are very secure in your riding and seem to know what you want from it (have fun and still be able to go to work on monday), you have a very good base to start from. Reference points helps to keep you consistent and safe on track, and together with throttle control are the main factors in going fast (for me). RPs can help with the apexes, so that nail them time after time. RPs put your mind at ease in the braking zone, because you know that you will be able to make the turn. Personally I have two RPs for braking, one for brakes on, and one of brakes off, I first adjust the brake on point, then the brake off, and if I feel like going faster into the turn (which I know if the apex is easily reached and I have lean to spare) I simply move my brake off RP a little closer to the brake on RP.

Randy Mamola once reveiled that the way to quick flick, like superfast, was to dip the clutch/close the throttle, but only during the transision phase, eliminating all gyro stability from the engine. I wouldn't dare it.. My own expirience tells me that picking/steering the bike up works very well, but it's a consious effort to keep up with your body when doing so. The bike reacts very fast and sometimes I find myself still hanging off to the wrong side. So counter that I lift myself off the seat with my feet just as the bike pass vertical and that kinda drops me into the second part of the corner..

For results and comfort, any new-ish 600cc bike with a decent trackprepped chassis and stock engine. Fast enough but not handfull

Why the short-shifting? I know the S1kRR is a beast, but having tried one, even in full superbike tune, I found that it actually is less beasty when rev'ed out and you can avoid an upshift and resulting downshift on almost every straight. And as others have said, less time spend enginebraking/coasting and nail them apexes. But very stable and secure riding, a joy to watch Ronni

Funny this, the rear stepping out under hard braking/downshifting is why I'm working on an air bleed system and a better slipper clutch at the moment. I never use the rear brake, but have a few corners where the rear steps out as I tip in, it very much feels like I'm twisting it out with the steering input.