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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hey Adam. IMO it all starts with the rider. If you haven't done CSS, get your butt out there. Regarding the original post; At the time of that posting, I hadn't made any changes. I was still trying to recall information from a conversation I had with one of the instructors a couple years back. Secondly, as the bike has changed a little over the years, I wasn't even sure that those changes were necessary anymore. I got a hold of Johnny at the school and was able to get the following clarification: "The 2018 is very nimble, more so than previous models, the changes we make actually 'flatten' out the bike to improve braking stability, particularly when trailing, and line holding on heavy gas turn exits. This does slow down the steering a touch though, but my bike has been adjusted to the max and I have no issues with steering rate. You are correct, we flip the eccentric and pull the forks down through the forks a few mm. I would recommend doing just one change at a time and asses the difference. A couple of the coaches left their bikes with just the forks adjusted and are happy with them. The eccentric only has 2 positions, no gradient of adjustment, but the forks can be adjusted any amount you choose until the cap is flush with the top yoke. Typically there are 2 preferred positions though; flush or cap showing. From the factory they have a couple of mm of fork stanchion showing above the yoke. I would also recommend a little pre-load both ends - maybe 1 ring on the front and 5 mm on the rear (10 full turns) be sure to have the ignition on if you adjust the rear. Again, try one thing at a time and see if you like it." My first day back on track is Labor Day so I will have the opportunity to test out the eccentric shock adjustment. Adjusting the fork height is a lot easier to do trackside so I will probably mess around with that throughout the day. Hope that's helpful.
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