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  1. 2 points
    The slip % should be between 5% and 15%, which it is, and the traction control will keep it in that range. It looks like you are getting a lot of slip % at steep lean, which would suggest that your entry speeds are a little low for your liking and are being compensated for with somewhat aggressive throttle while leaned over far mid turn. I have no clue about Michelins, but would follow the suggestions of the local distributor for that tire.
  2. 2 points
    The short answer: you have to work up to it and feel it out. The longer answer: Testing the grippiness of your tire must be done gradually, the idea is to increase lean angle gradually so that if the tire begins to slide there is some warning and opportunity to save it. The most pro coaches I have talked to on this advise gradually adding a little more lean at a time (corner after corner, or possibly even in the same corner if it is a long one) to feel out the traction, as opposed to just whacking it over to maximum lean and hoping for the best - because if you go too far too fast you will not have enough time to "sample" the traction and see how it feels, and know when you are approaching the limit. Some tires will have a specific feel to them when they are cold: the Dunlop slicks, for example, have a tendency to make the bike want to stand up in the corner and that is a good indicator that they are very cold. The carcass is stiff and reluctant to flex so when you lean into the corner it resists and sort of pushes the bike back up. Some other tires just feel a bit "wandery" in the corner, like they are sort of weaving around slightly, instead of feeling planted. If you have ridden in rain or ridden dirt bikes in the mud, you can recognize the feel of little slides, and little slides like that are your warning that you are at about the limit of traction for the conditions and the tire needs to warm up more before you can lean over any farther. It is a great exercise, when opportunity presents (winter is coming!) to pay VERY close attention to how your tires feel when stone cold, to develop a sense for it with your own bike and your own tire brand/model. It is difficult to quantify how long tires will take to warm up because it depends on tire type, air temp, track temp, wind conditions, how hard you ride, etc., so the best solution I know of is to feel it out carefully.
  3. 1 point
    This is so good I'm so happy to hear. I'm running a Yoga teacher training in Perth this month and found myself comparing the CSS vision exercises from level too to the concentration exercises we have in the more traditional forms of Yoga. There's so many cross overs - what we do with the body is obvious but the control of the mind is just as relevant. So good
  4. 1 point
    Hi there life long learners! If you happen to be in the NY area, OTRA Motorcycle School, an MSF certified and NYSMSP licensed motorcycle training school is hosting Corner College, an advanced cornering clinic, in Selden, NY at the Suffolk Community College campus. The date is Saturday September 9th (next Saturday!). This is not a track day, we will be in a wide open parking lot to focus on specific cornering techniques in a structured format with off-cycle coaches providing real-time and constant feedback to a small group of riders (maximum of 8 riders for the day.) This is a unique format developed by myself with OTRA to address specific skills that sportbike riders tend to misunderstand, to reduce the interaction of factors to occur that lead to crashes, on the track or the street. This is an excllent compliment to track days and track oriented schools, like CSS. Since the format is very different from the track we tend to break people out of ruts and plateaus in their learning paths that they have been struggling with. Past students have commented about how much fun it was to take a different approach and how much more they learned than they expected. That always warms my heart as someone who is also always willing to learn and grow. If you are interested or curious please call Vanessa our office manager (she’s also a certified MSF coach!) at 631-862-RIDE (7433). You are also welcome to come down and watch if you want to see if this is for you, perhaps for a future class! We welcome All to the celebration of motorcycle knowledge. “Learning is a journey, not a destination” Warmest Regards, Tom https://www.facebook.com/intuiTom https://www.facebook.com/On-The-Road-Again-118099454912957
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Hello, I have an ex-CSS '15 S1000RR that I ride exclusive on track (Mid-Ohio, Grattan, GingerMan). I was using Dunlop Q3s without issues, but recently decided to try out slicks (Pirelli, then Michelin). I keep getting excessive wear on the right side of rear slicks. I've received a number of tips from the tire reps at the track and riding coaches: - it's my riding style, I need to pick up the bike more before accelerating hard. - it's a hot tear, I'm running 2 psi too low (went from 24 psi hot to 26 psi hot on the Michelin. - it's the rear suspension, it's too stiff and you might have your eccentrics (top of rear shock mount and swingarm) set wrong. I did try to change my riding style and played with the pressure, and the tires did last a bit longer (up from 2 days to ~3.5). The last point was the one that was intriguing to me - I've never looked at the eccentrics or thought about them. Since I bought the bike used (and had the rear swingarm removed by a mechanic when I had a full exhaust put on), I don't know if they are set 'stock' or something else. Can someone tell from the pictures whether I have stock settings? Does anyone have experience with how the bike handling will change if set these eccentrics different?
  7. 1 point
    Ok first of all this is TOTALLY awesome that you have this data to post! The datalogger is fantastic, and I'm glad to see you using it, what a great application. That second chart is terrific, lots of information there. At first glance at the second chart things look pretty even from one side to the other, your lean angle is not drastically different on rights versus lefts, but on closer examination the throttle position versus lean angle does look somewhat different - that top red line showing around 75% throttle at 40+% lean angle and some of the yellow and orange at 45-50% are more apparent on rights than lefts, and the slip rate seems, in general, a little higher on the rights but not much (looks like more data points in the >10% range?)... and maybe the characteristics of the corners on that track are what is causing those differences. I think I see the problem - the Michelins are not "adapting" sufficiently to your situation. Do you know if the tire damage is more within the first few laps or sessions or at the beginning of the day versus later? That might help determine if it is cold or hot tear, it sort of looks like hot tear to me (the tears look wider and shallower than I'd expect to see for cold tear) but for sure I am not an expert. But the fact that a 2 psi pressure increase seemed to improve the situation would support that as well - if you have a chance next time to check tire temperature and pressure before and after riding (straight off warmers versus coming off the track) that should help tell you whether it is hot or cold tear, that article above has some specifics of what temp/pressure rise to look for, and/or the tire rep should be able to tell you what is optimum operating temperature/pressure for that tire, to compare to what you are actually getting. If it were me I'd check the alignment on that rear wheel - not sure whether that would or could have anything to do with this type of uneven tire wear but it's a really easy thing to check, and a good idea to do anyway. Then, if the tire pressure and compound seem correct for the track (per the tire rep), I'd next try softening the rear suspension and see if that helps, since that could contribute to hot tearing by making the tire work too hard because the suspension is not compliant enough. Also check the spring rate recommended for your weight and see if you are within range, if the rear spring is way too stiff for your weight that could be contributing to the problem. Since you have good photos AND access to the wealth of information from your datalogger, you could try reaching out to Dave Moss to see what he thinks on the suspension side, I think he does analysis like that and it would probably be refreshing to him to have all that data available to work with. Dataloggers are such an amazing tool!!
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for the responses! I would say the majority of the hard acceleration corners at MO and Grattan (Clockwise) are right handers. I attached a data logger plot of MO - the highest spin at high throttle are the keyhole exit (turn 10 in the plot) and the thunder valley entrance (turn 4 in the plot). I was surprised to see that the logger shows spin through the back straight kink, and this is also on the right side of the tire. I haven't noticed a different body position from one side to the other, however, I do think I feel more confident with right turns - a lot more knee puck wear on that side! I am using the Michelin Power Slick Evo. The Michelin reps at the track have some buzzwords about it (Two Compound Technology (2CT) and Adaptive Technology (ACT)), the gist of which seems to be that there is only one compound and it's supposed to adapt to conditions. I did try a Pirelli Diablo SC2, which I think is their harder compound, and I had a similar wear problem - tearing on the right side. I do use warmers, and I set the tire pressure coming off the warmers; I haven't looked at what the pressure is coming off the track. The outside temp has varied from low 70's to mid 80's. At most, there is a 5 minute wait before coming off the warmers and heading out to the track, and I put the warmers back on within 5 minutes of getting off the track. The Michelin rep told me to run 24psi hot off the warmers, so that is what I've been running. When I asked a riding coach about the tearing at MO, he suggested I run 2 more psi, so I tried running 26psi - this seemed to help a bit. He also suggested I flip the tire when I saw signs of tearing, so I also did that. I did read the forum article here about tearing, but that was afterwards (:>).
  9. 1 point
    I'm not a tire or suspension expert by any stretch, but here are my thoughts: 1) Since it only is happening on one side (and you are riding multiple tracks) that would imply an issue with riding style - unless the tracks are all very right-handed - less likely that a suspension or setup problem would only affect one side. A rider that drives much harder while leaned over farther on right handers might experience different tire wear on that side, though, does your lean angle or body position look significantly different from one side to the other in photos? 2) I'm not a suspension expert but this does look like tearing, is this is multi-compound tire, and is the compound on that part of the tire super soft? Personally I have only seen that kind of wear when the tire was too soft for the for the track surface and/or if temps were out of range (hot tear or cold tear). You might try asking a tire vendor what compound they use on the tracks you run - especially since you didn't have the issue with the Q3s, could be the tire is just not appropriate for the surface, or that it has a super-soft compound at the outside edges and THAT is too soft for the surface. 3) The width of the worn area looks even to me, doesn't show the wave or wider/thinner areas that you might expect to see if suspension was the issue. Do you run warmers? How much does the tire pressure change from coming fresh off the warmers to coming off the track after riding? What sort of outside temps were you riding in, and do you have to sit for long between coming off the warmers to riding at speed on the track? Dave Moss's various websites and videos are a great source of info, here is one that might be helpful:
  10. 1 point
    I asked our chief mechanic at the school, here is his response: >> The eccentrics are in the stock position. There is no "wrong setting". Tearing like that comes from wheel spin. Depending on what mode he runs in or what his traction control is set to will vary the wear. Mid Ohio for sure has some straights coming off right handers and a kink so there's gonna be some serious drive in those spots. The position of the wear would indicate getting on the gas late and hard. >>
  11. 1 point
    Wish I had a computer to look at the video frame by frame... but I don't think there's anything too mysterious happening here... For those who have ever done a quick change of direction through a slalom or short chicane you might have noticed that it takes very little throttle (or any at all, if the steering rate is so quick?) to lift the front wheel as the bike is coming upright on the change of direction. This is because the steering rate is so great, you have the inertia of the bike coming from lean to upright, the mass of the bike combined with that inertia means that it wants to keep going up - hence lifting the front wheel. If you're then trying to lean the bike over in the other direction while the front wheel is in the air... well you can guess what happens. I've also seen this with strange geometry/weighting. It was on a work delivery scooter, bit of weight in the top box, a quick-ish u-turn or even just straightening up quickly out of a regular corner would bring the front wheel off the ground and cause a decent tank slapper if not controlled properly. Given the extremes that MotoGP racers are dealing with it wouldn't surprise me if Vinales front wheel came off the ground and caused him to crash.
  12. 1 point
    I thought of this when I saw your post... Dave Moss comes out with some very insightful comments every now and then: Take particular note of your clip on angle as well as the position relative to the forks. To me moving the clip ons 30mm in front of the forks is a fairly radical setup, but what I take away from this is that the riders comfort and ergonomic fit is the highest priority. Move the controls to wherever you need them, the bike is always going to steer better for you if you can use the controls more effectively.
  13. 1 point
    I am quite tall...and I was not flexible. That really annoyed me because I felt limited when riding my bike on the track. And also, it is of common knowledge that if you fall, being flexible is one good way to prevent injury...So one year ago, I started Yoga... simple, at home, 3 times a weeks. For sure, it helped me tremendously with my balance, flexibility and core strength. And to be honest, I really saw the difference in my riding. It helped my position, I got a better body lock on the bike, my back had to compensate less for the lack of core strength, so less back pain at the end of the session...and well, the measurable result: I am faster on faster on the track, and I do believe this is part of the reason. So I can only recommend yoga for riding. It did help me.
  14. 1 point
    When you sit on the bike on a stand, and get in your normal hanging off positon (assuming you hang off for corners), can you let go of the bars and still feel secure? Is it easier on one side than the other?
  15. 1 point
    You may wish to do some searching in the bike specific forums (600rr.net and or cbrforums.com) to find out if the 2012 was one of the years that Honda cheaped out on the suspension and it's one of the models where the rebound doesn't work. But if you're at max on Preload then a new spring is first order of business. I found after CSS my riding position went rearward and if that also was your case then you may find the spring is indeed all sprung out. I did a full suspension on my 06 CBR1000RR and also my 2002 CBR600F4i and it needn't cost an arm and leg. Be careful with accepting advice from people not paying the bill though. The shocks used on the Unit Pro Link do not offer any ride height adjustments but some models can be shimmed if you need to steepen the static geometry. I've got build threads on cbrforum for my F4i if you'd like to see what I did and on 1000rr.net; same username and avatar.
  16. 1 point
    This is John Lee by the way... the one that ran into a little hiccup on my level 3 day. You guys went way above and beyond what was necessary and just wanted to say thank you again. Laura you were totally awesome looking out for me without hesitation. I noticed after reviewing some of my lap footage that between lvl 1+2 earlier in the month I didn't bother opening up the bike on the straights and just focused on the drills and cornering; and by level 4 I improved dramatically (on average 20% faster on the corners); so while in lvl 2 I would hit 140mph on the main straight in lvl 4 I stayed in 3rd gear 9k rpm even on the straight not trying to speed the straights and just focus on the corners and yet my overall lap times were faster; something both Laura and Pete pointed out. Definitely noticeable on the streets too. I'll post my personal riding issue in the Student Success Stories Still have a long ways to go but you guys gave me a great head start; I will be practicing until the next time. Thanks to my coaches along the way: Level 1 - Brian Level 2 - Connor Level 3 - Laura Level 4 - Pete You guys rock.
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