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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/11/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    I see a second steering input also. Could be that the roll on was already starting as you leaned it that extra bit, or maybe you were already near the limit (for those tires) and the extra bit of lean was enough to break it loose. I can't hear it well enough on the video to tell for sure but that extra lean combined with some throttle application could definitely have caused the rear to slide without warning.
  2. 2 points
    I've ridden many different tire sizes on different bikes and really can't tell much of a difference once I get a few laps on them. I've ridden a 1000 with a 180 rear and it was fine... if you A/B compared you'd feel the difference I'm sure. Slicks last longer than street tires, at least the Dunlops do. Heat cycles are what our coach tires experience all day long every day they are ridden. It may make a 3% difference but nothing anyone could feel easily. 1) Don't sweat the size issue. 200's are fine. The AMA 600 class used to run 200 rear slicks... 2) Get slicks if you want durability (and grip). 3) Use warmers with the slicks to ensure you don't get a cold tire crash. 4) Worry more about tread depth than heat cycles.
  3. 2 points
    2013 willow 2014 ridge 2015 3 days ridge 2016 3 ridge 2 Vegas 2017 4 days ridge 3 days cota 2018 5 days ridge 2 laguna 4 jersey 4 vir 3 laguna 2019 2 willow 4 vir 2 corvette 5 barber 2 thunder hill 6 ridge 2 ridge 2 thunder hill 5 streets the included pic is maybe half?
  4. 2 points
    Jaybird, The skills build one on the other, with quite a thoroughly researched progression, and relationship. That being said, working on one skill at a time is the proven approach. Let's say a rider works on his Throttle Control, but has no clear idea of line. In the next class for Level 1, we discuss lines, and the components of them (one of which is good Throttle Control). So when we set out the Turn Points (to help create good lines) the rider often finds out he had a line that didn't allow for good Throttle Control. We do realize this is a lot to master, all the skills of each level. The coaches are trained in how to deal with this, and adjust the "drinking from a firehose". There is more to this, of course, but there's a mini-view. CF
  5. 2 points
    Being honest with oneself, a bit of a skill. Honest, yet not beat up on oneself, also a skill. Big part is just being able to observe. Keith is frickin' amazing at being able to observe.
  6. 2 points
    It would be a rare 180 degree turn where you could roll on the gas as soon as you have your lean angle set (at the beginning of the turn) and be able to roll on continuously for the whole rest of the turn. If the turn was large, and U shaped (as an example) you would most often have to roll off (or at least go flat) on the gas in the middle of the turn, more or less treating it as TWO turns, the first part with one turn point and apex and the second part with its own turn point and apex. Depending on the shape of the turn, you may or may not need to make another steering input to change your lean angle at the second turn point (ie if the turn tightens up in the second part, you will likely have to make a steering input to change the lean angle for the second part of the turn). Alternatively, you could consider that your "real" turn point is somewhere in the middle of the 180 degree turn, a turn point that will line you up for the apex and exit you want. Everything before that would really just be pre-positioning to get to that turn point and you might very well be slowing down (off the gas and trail braking) ALL the way to the turn point which could be located near the middle of the 180 degree turn, or even later if it tightens up a lot at the end. You could try working backwards from the exit (if exit speed is the priority) to find the exit line you want, then find the apex and turn point (in the second half of the turn) that will line you up for that without any additional change in lean angle . That will be your "second turn point" (or real turn point if you are thinking of it as one turn) then work backwards from THERE to find an entry line from the first part of the turn that will get you top that second turn point. Does that make sense? If the turn is at the end of a fast straight and whatever comes after the 180 degree turn is slower, you may want to prioritize carrying the straightaway speed as long as possible and in that case you might choose a line that allows maximum trail braking as long and late as possible before you reach the second turn point, potentially sacrificing some speed in the latter part of the turn with a less optimum exit but a wide fast entry.
  7. 1 point
    I am in need of better feel in my front braking system. Due to stock class rules, there are restrictions on what I can do to the bike. I can't change to Stainless Steel lines, upgrade calipers, master cylinder or rotors (I don't think), but it does appear that I can change the brake pads. I did some research into the various materials, but the articles I found only discuss costs, longevity and composition, but not much in the way of feedback and feel vs stopping power. My current setup (very likely OE Yamaha pads, but I'll have to verify - shame on me) feels spongy but has the capability to lift the back wheel off the ground with alacrity. Unfortunately I have experience with this, as it caught me off-guard when I had instead expected the front tire to slide on the cold pavement this Friday evening, but it never did. This is for my TT-R125 Minimoto trackbike. Which pad material could improve my feedback in what the brakes are doing and offer more progressive feel? Organic, Semi-Organic, Sintered, Metallic, etc.? I wasn't able to find out what the OE pad is made from, but I've put in an inquiry with a major parts distributor to see if they can help. UPDATE: The supplier says the pads “appear to be ceramic”.
  8. 1 point
    My mother rides horses (Dressage) and, after my first track down [as well as my first non-fault down], she reminded me a rule within that community is if you fall "get back on the horse" ASAP. I was pretty shaken and the rest of my day was shot pretty bad. But getting back on and riding was the right call, since I wasn't injured. Unfortunately your accident was 2 years ago so that advice is a bit late. Here's the best advice I can manage: start with evening trips, work your way into the darker hours. Shorter trips. Just ride 'around the block' a time or two or something similar, every night just to get used to it again. If this were a track day I'd say your session 'goal' would be: "smooth and relaxed" and to down your pace until you hit that. Practice some mindfulness. If you notice you're scared, pull over and clear your head (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mindfulness).
  9. 1 point
    Good job working through the errors and reasons leading up to them.
  10. 1 point
    Hello... I wanted to reach out and connect. I have currently completed Levels 1-4 without even saying hello.
  11. 1 point
    The pic looks like ViR....Turn 2
  12. 1 point
    Figured I might as well introduce myself, even after doing over 60 schools if my count is right. I'm Yakaru, though lots of people at the track call me Violet since it's easier to remember and pronounce. I'm a video game developer currently based out of the Seattle area and motorcycle track addict. I have a bunch of bikes (highlights are my Ninja 300, S1000RR, and HP4Race) and I've been getting more serious about my riding this year and made some notable gains thanks to my coaches at California Superbike. I've got a few "regular" coaches, including Misti and Lyle as well as the Australians Chook and Stef.
  13. 1 point
    Welcome! Glad to have you here. Where did you do your school days?
  14. 1 point
    I gotta be honest, given how the previous sessions went, i figured one lap was good for a warmup seeing as how that's what I did from the second session on (in the first session i gave it two laps). So after one lap, i felt better grip and got a little more aggressive. I had one more session left so I didn't expect this one to be my last. Wasn't "going in" as if it was the last run of the season. Throttle control felt smooth, I remembered to ROLL it on, I didn't whack it open. I don't recall the RPMs shooting up, I just remember the rear coming around. I was pretty surprised that it wasn't a high side too. The bike didn't tumble either. It just laid down and slid on to the dirt. The frame slider, rider foot peg, passenger foot peg and rear spool saved the engine case. One thing i do remember was very briefly when i began to roll the throttle, i didn't feel the settling/squatting of the rear I had felt previously throughout the day when driving out through the exit (i guess this is the connection with the rear that you're talking about?) but before I could put it together the rear was sliding out. I have video footage of my tach because I had a go pro sitting on the gas tank cover so I gotta go review that and see what I made the engine do and whether or not I really rolled the throttle or whacked it open.
  15. 1 point
    Yes, it's true that you get more tire in contact with the pavement with lower pressures (to a point), but despite the myths contact patch size isn't the primary factor in providing tire grip. Tire grip restated in physics terms is the coefficient of friction between the two surfaces (road and rubber) and the myth is that bigger contact patch = more grip. The tires act as part of the suspension system, responding to the irregularities in the pavement often in ways the forks and shocks cannot. This would be referred to as compliance of the tire. When the tire is not in physical contact with the pavement, you have no grip. As a tire (internally) heats up, the air inside increases pressure, pushing from the inside on the tire and giving it more of an inflated shape and hardness - pressure. Tire pressures are set in such a way to allow for running conditions to put the tire into the optimum temperature range for the tire to adhere to the pavement based on it's chemical makeup (the rubber and the other "stuff" the manufacturer puts into the tire) and to inflate the tire to a workable compliance based on expectations of performance working in concert with the forks and shock to give the rider what is needed - friction (and absorbing some bumps is nice too). All of this is the long way of saying: don't take tire pressures as gospel, they can be bike, rider, asphalt composition, surface and ambient temperature specific. Some tire brands are more tolerant than others of what the proper range would be. Dave Moss has talked about some Michelin tires being 1/2lb sensitive! I am very interested in knowing if when you felt the bike "gripped a little better" if you ramped it up a little bit or aggressively? What was your mental state knowing this was your last session of the season? How was your throttle control and what was your sense of connection to the rear wheel as it came around? Did the RPM rise? I'm very curious as to why you lost the rear and not the front as @Cobie Fair described above. I'm also curious as to how this didn't turn into a highside.
  16. 1 point
    Try this video for warmer questions
  17. 1 point
    Good riding with you in Vegas. Catch your act at Willow Springs...
  18. 1 point
    Great find, that is a REALLY good perspective on a very late apex turn. It really illustrates how long you have to wait to get on the gas, and how too low and entry speed would BEG you to roll on too early. It's also VERRRY interesting to observe the differences in the accuracy of the throttle timing (and consequently accuracy of the line) of the front runners versus some of the later riders.
  19. 1 point
    The rule I tended to follow was to integrate the drills but to not let a previous one distract from the current one. I mean, throttle control and turn points are obvious in this regard but some more challenging drills (for me) sometimes required I not overwhelm myself by trying to do everything. If hipflick hurts my turn point accuracy (within reason) for the hipflick drill then I note it and let it go but try to clean it up later.
  20. 1 point
    Carefully listen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47ybaUjqAt0
  21. 1 point
    I'm constantly gripping and re-gripping/adjusting my hand. Easy enough to do, if well attached to the bike with the lower body.
  22. 1 point
    I gained a greater appreciation for Dani watching this documentary.
  23. 1 point
    Don't want to impede on Hotfoot's wisdom but some thoughts: Not saying it's correct for your situation but there are definitely turns where it feels like you should be back on the throttle simply because it's "been so long" e.g. Turn 6 at Vegas (9 clockwise). It's maybe... 150 degrees? Just the top result I found, so not judging their technique beyond this purpose, but going counter clockwise - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swAYYP1rQZ0 -- look at around 55 seconds. There's a solid 3 seconds there the rider is having to be patient; and even then the line never gets down to the apex curbing. Look at the next lap -- probably a hair before 3:00 -- same thing (and getting down to the apex better). Next lap -- 4:53 or so. If it's got more "middle space", a double apex approach with a throttle pause or roll off and maybe releaning can be vital (the Twist II DVD demonstrates double apex as one of two exceptions to Throttle Control Rule #1)
  24. 1 point
    1) Braking, while leaned over, can cause the bike to stand up, see my more detailed answer above. On a properly set up sport bike, accelerating does NOT cause the bike to stand up. Accelerating WILL increase the radius of a circle but WITHOUT changing lean angle. A rider who thinks the bike stands up because of the throttle is unconsciously steering it up with the bars. Note - a bike with a more extreme, non-neutral setup - like a chopper with a stretched out front end, or a bike with a serious suspension problem - may act differently. 2) No. You are adding load to the rear tire in two different ways at once and that can easily overload it and lead to a rear tire slide, without a lot of warning to the rider or time to correct it. Doing one at a time is a much safer approach. 3) Yes, the front forks are more extended which makes it more difficult to steer the bike and there is less weight on the front tire which affects traction - the most extreme example would be accelerating so hard that the front tire is off the ground, obviously at that point there is no traction at all on the front tire. 4) Coming off the throttle makes it easier to lean the bike. It compresses the front end which steepens the steering angle and makes the bike easier to steer. Braking lightly can do the same, however on many bikes braking REALLY HARD can make the bike harder to steer; I'm not sure all of the reasons for that but I think it has to do with overloading the front tire (deforming it) and suspension, not to mention the difficulty for the rider of keeping enough pressure off the bars to steer effectively under hard braking.
  25. 1 point
    Braking, with the front brake, while leaned over in a turn, can definitely cause the bike to stand up noticeably - assuming the braking is hard enough to shift significant weight to the front and NOT so hard that the wheel actually slides, the braking forces cause a friction drag of the contact patch against the pavement that makes the front wheel want to turn to the inside, which creates a countersteering effect and stands the bike up. So when braking while leaned over, the rider has to resist that turn of the front wheel by pushing on the opposite bar to counteract it, to keep the bike on line (i.e., if in a left hand corner the rider would have to push on the left bar to offset the countersteering effect of the braking). This can get tricky to manage, as the rider is restricting movement of the bars, and placing additional load on the front end, so braking TOO hard while leaned over can exceed the limits of traction of the front tire. If braking verrrrry gently the counter steering effect is so slight that the rider may not feel any tendency of the bike to stand up, and the fact that the bike is slowing down will eventually decrease the radius of the turn, so a rider who only brakes very gently while leaned over (or uses just rear brake - which can also be tricky) may not ever notice any tendency of the bike to stand up. But braking harder or more abruptly makes it much more noticeable. Or, a rider who has a lot of experience with using the front brake while leaned over may be so accustomed to automatically pressing on the opposite bar to counteract the countersteering effect may not be aware of the bike's tendency to stand up, and a rider like that would have to go out and consciously try to relax the arms and observe what happens if he or she ADDS front brake in a corner while leaned over.
  26. 1 point
    I disagree. Steering input changes lean angle, not throttle. I think that if a rider was turning in a circle of a constant radius providing no steering input, acceleration by rolling on the throttle would cause the circle to become larger, i.e., a wider line, but the motorcycle would maintain it's lean angle. Braking would have the opposite effect of tightening the turn radius except for the aforementioned front-tire friction increase that actually causes a steering action and initially stands the bike up.
  27. 1 point
    Like most any physically demanding sport, physical fitness (nutrition, hydration, strength, flexibility, etc.) is a factor in your ability to perform, and so are training, understanding, and practice. But, in my opinion, personalized coaching, and willingness to BE coached, are extremely important. I'll give you my perspective: I started riding quite late, in my mid thirties. I was very slow and very nervous and I don't think anyone expected me to have the potential to ride fast, let alone race (least of all me!), but I got really interested in the sport, got lots of coaching, and devoted a lot of time to really understanding the material, and my understanding of the material ABSOLUTELY changed and evolved as I rode faster. Going back and reading Twist II, I found lots of information struck me differently as my pace increased and I found techniques that were a bit vague to me at first became much more important, much more useful to me, because I NEEDED them more. For example, I could get away with slow body transitions at slower speeds but as my laptimes came down, speed of moving across the bike in a chicane became a limiting factor, I couldn't get through a particular section any quicker without moving over faster. Suddenly hip flick, which didn't seem very useful to me before, became a critical skill. That is just one example, but I have had, over the years, a BUNCH of breakthroughs like that, and have found that as I progress in my riding, becoming proficient in certain techniques and riding faster overall, new barriers crop up and as I address each one I get quicker again - and then encounter something else. How do I overcome the barriers? Through coming to school and getting coaching, mostly. Sometimes study of the material helps, sometimes analyzing data (laptimes, braking zones, lines, etc. from my lap timer or data logger) help, but coaching is what always makes the biggest difference - very often what I THOUGHT was my barrier turned out to be something different entirely, and it required the eye of a coach to discover that. Of course, my mindset while being coached is a huge factor in my ability to improve. If, for example, I came to school fiercely determined that I already knew "what my problem was", then I did not get nearly as much benefit from coaching because I was resistant to allowing the coach to help me. After I figured that out, I got even more improvements on my school days. I said physical fitness is important, but I am a lot older than many of the riders I race against, and not as fit as most of them, either, but my CSS training allows me to ride with fewer SR's and a lot less wasted effort so I can go faster and be calmer overall. I thought I had reached my riding peak years ago but I am actively racing this year and I am riding faster than ever before. I still get coaching as often as I can, generally I come to school as a student at least 4 days a year, if not more, and that makes a huge difference for me. It is not because I am in better shape, because I am not. It is because I understand and apply the riding tech better than I could before. I used to think, at the end of any school day as a student, that I was riding as fast as I ever would, because I figured I would just get older and slower.... but I'm not getting slower, I'm getting faster. Every time I come to school I get some new piece of information or tackle a new skill that adds something to my riding, and I get quicker. And what a thrill that is! And it is even better when some twenty year old comes over to your pit to ask you how you do it.
  28. 1 point
    In October of 2017, the year I posted this, I had a race ending accident at The Barber Vintage Festival. Race practice might have been an ominous sign for things to come when I nearly crashed on a team Triumph Thruxton going about 100 mph. I had been putting in some good lap times and needed about a 1/2 a second more to put in the top three. I was approaching turn 9 and 10 knowing I would need to get the bike turned quickly to carry the speed and to keep the bike off the rumble strips on the outside. I was finishing my steering input when the outside clip on snapped against the gas tank. I had no way to control the bike as I headed for the gravel on the outside of the track. I didn't have much time to think about it but the option of bailing didn't seem like a wise move at the time. I went through grass, pavement, gravel and then grass again. I had slowed to about 60 when I noticed the reflection of blue sky in the grass ahead. Any of you that have ridden or raced at Barber know how George likes to keep his landscaping nice and green. There was reflection of the sky in the grass ahead about three inches of water. I hit it and it was like an explosion. People who saw my antics wished the ride had been recorded. I survived it keeping the bike upright and getting it back to the pits. Lesson: when you are riding on someone else's machine double and triple check the levers, clip on's, rear sets etc etc etc. The next day was my Sounds Of Thunder 2 race with 70 riders lined up on the grid. I was racing on my modified SV650. I was on the 9th row. My strategy for the race was to get a good start and try to hang on the leading pack. I wanted to get into the 1:37's which for me on a SV650 was a respectable lap. My previous fastest was a 1:39 in practice. I got a great jump and was headed down into turn one when I saw a blur coming in from my left side taking me out. I remember being launched over the left clip on then nothing but the most extreme pain I have ever felt in my life lasting for no more than a millisecond. I remember holding someone's hand and hearing sirens but not able to make out any faces. I remember telling them not to cut my leathers. I have two close racing buddies, one an orthopedic surgeon and the other a neonatal surgeon. They were both on the track when this happened. One of them, the neonatal surgeon, knew that he would have to keep me close to try and better my lap times so he saw it all. He thought I was dead. He went against race protocol resting his bike against the Armco barrier and ran to me. He said he pulled up my visor to see if I was breathing.The rider who caused the initial accident lost his front coming into turn one ejecting me. The rider who did the damage had no place to go. He basically did a stoppie on my chest then releasing the brake lever rolling off me to have the rear wheel land on my chest. I had what they call a flailed chest with 10 broken ribs, a broken sternum and a punctured lung. I had to wait three days for surgery to install titanium plating to hold my ribs together. I had some issues with pneumonia after the surgery spending 12 days in intensive care. My biggest fear going through this was that I would be an invalid and before the advent of the titanium plating, I would have been. I would have much rather died doing something I love than be a burden. The good news is a never gave up. I am almost good about 85% lung capacity and missing a muscle or two. I'm working out at a local gym and riding a Peloton at home. I also have a mountain bike that I take for long rides communing with nature. I have ended my racing career or should I say my wife has ended it :) I loved racing but not enough to destroy a marriage. For me there were two choices, life or death no in between. I am physically fit enough to ride competitively and if I could talk my wife into it, my goal would be the same, to better my craft every lap, to be the best that I could be. There's nothing like the feeling of beating your previous best lap time and there's nothing like being told "man, you can ride." I am one of those guys now, relegated to telling stories and helping with bike stands and tire warmers as others ride out to the track. Thank you, Cobie and all the rest of those at CSS that coached me a long the way. Great memories.
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