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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi JP, Your questions are good. There are a number of factors that come into play, and one answer won't work for all turns/situation. The one that will give the most problems is increasing throttle and lean angle together, that's usually a big no-no. Have you read any of Twist of the Wrist 2, or seen the video? That will give you some great guidelines. Best, Cobie
  2. 1 point
    Here is some info from Dylan that you might find interesting: Dunlop just released a new sportbike tire, the Q4. This tire is different from what many think it is. It is NOT an improved Q3+ but rather a whole new category of tire. Its purpose is to provide a street legal tire with excellent grip, no need for warmers, that is at home on the track or on your favorite twisty road. Essentially it fills the gap between the Q3+ and the street legal race tire, the GPA Pro. So the progression looks like this: Q3+. Best all purpose tire. Harder center band for commuting, with sides well suited for cornering. Q4. Best for trackdays and canyons/twisty roads. Warms fast, less sensitive to pressure settings. Single compound across entire tread. Any loss in overall mileage is gained in grip compared to Q3+. GPA Pro. Essentially a race slick with grooves. Warmers strongly recommended particularly when cool and pressures checked and set before riding. Street legal. Poor choice for commuting but good for twisty roads and very much at home on the track. Slicks. Pure track only tire. Warmers strongly recommended with pressures checked and set before riding.
  3. 1 point
    Reporting back after a full day on track. Wow! Maybe it's all in my head (the power of suggestion) but by making a few of the adjustments, I found that braking later felt noticeably smoother, more controlled, and less distracting than before. I also found that the bike did in fact hold the line better on faster exits. Confidence levels were high! The only issue I have found in trying to set up the suspension so far is that I can't quite get in the ideal "Rider Sag Range" with the OE springs. It's still off by about -4mm up front with the preload backed out. It clearly handled well regardless so I will have to decide if I want to make the swap in the off season or leave it as is.
  4. 1 point
    Thanks to all that replied! I finally watched TOTW 2 and i definitely have a better understanding now. I plan on getting the book and reading it here soon too 🤘🏻
  5. 1 point
    The reason given was that the suspension works better loaded rather than unloaded. I suppose it is similar to TOTW2. the idea of the best weight distribution coming from slowly rolling on the throttle, but the way it was presented is confusing.
  6. 1 point
    Just finished up my first ever experience on a racetrack. Absolutely amazing. Every great thing you have heard or read about the California Superbike School is absolutely true. First class operation all the way. The 2 days were exhausting in a good way. The food, support, bikes, coaching was top notch. It was a pleasure to meet all of the team. A special shoutout to Josh my coach for the 2 days. He was just amazing at providing constructive critiques and he truly transformed my riding over the 2 days. Already saving my pennies to do levels 3/4. Best regards, Byron P.S. A quick pic from day 2, I promise I didn't look that good on day 1
  7. 1 point
    I can see why that would be confusing, especially if there was not a exact explanation of specifically WHEN to roll on the throttle and WHY. What, exactly, was the stated purpose of that before turn roll-on you describe in that mantra you mentioned? "Maintenance throttle" is s term that is thrown around a lot but different people seem to have different ideas of what it is supposed to mean. I personally have heard at least three different definitions. Twist of the Wrist II gives a detailed and straightforward explanation of good throttle control, might want to have another look at that if you haven't in a while.
  8. 1 point
    OP, I see where you are coming from. David Moss has this mantra I've been seeing on his facebook videos- brake- throttle- turn. And it confused me at first. Unless you think of it as maintenance throttle rather than actually accelerating. Still, even then I'm confused a little. My impression of TOTW and reading here is that you simply don't want to get into the habit of accelerating and adding lean angle Even if at your speed and skill level you are far from the limit of the tire. As you get faster, it's simply too easy to shoot right past the warning signs of approaching the limit. At the same time you want that throttle control where you are gradually rolling on the throttle while trading off lean angle. Ideally you want to set up your corner so you can accomplish this. Obviously, it's not always possible on the street. At least that's my take... I mean when you are really lapping around a track and feeling fast and you set up the corner right and make your pivot steering input, I can't imagine rolling on the throttle at that time as well. It seems like too much is going on with the chassis much like you don't want to be moving around in your seat at this time either. Once you release the inside bar pressure, settle down in the seat, then I can see rolling on maintenance throttle. Then it's a gradual roll on the throttle while coming out of your lean.
  9. 1 point
    I'll be interested to hear too...
  10. 1 point
    MaxMcAllister in his suspension clinic (can be found on YouTube) provides the info that all geometry changes have a side effect for every intended effect. He said it’s about 3:1 ratio of effect to side effect and many people chase setup issues because of missing information of knowing which end of the motorcycle to change. The cliff notes: he provides that front end changes effect corner entry to mid turn and rear end height changes effect mid turn to corner exit; being mindful of the side effect issue. My concern with prescribing a geometry change at this point is introducing another variable into the equation when rider input, vision, timing and throttle control haven’t been sorted, nor do we know if static sag and chassis balance have been baselined. My $.03 is aligned with the OP and Hotfoot’s process to establish what the rider is doing and how the bike is responding.
  11. 1 point
    YCRS does talk about trailing the brakes, and often we get compared that we don't. Not quite accurate, we actually have skills for this. Some turns one must trail the brakes way into the turn like a long, late apex decreasing radius turn. Other turns trailing the brakes late into the turn makes it not possible to turn the bike quickly, and delays throttle roll on unnecessarily. Look at where most of the crashes happen at MotoGP...at turn entry, carrying the braking too much, too far.
  12. 1 point
    One factor...not sure it was addressed above: when braking and turning, the bike actually tries to countersteer up, out of the turn, and that force does have to be resisted.
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