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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/23/2017 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    A couple of other things to be cautious about. 1. Puddles. Not only because of the hydroplaning potential. Hit one at speed and all the water in the puddle nearly instantaneously will soak you and add lots of weight to you. 2. Tar snakes and patches. Not all traction is created equal. Tar snakes will cause a lot more traction issues when they are wet. Some patched areas have more or less traction than the main part of the track. 3. Visibility. Visor fogging (easily fixed), Mist from other bikes, fog and rain on your visor can reduce visibility. Use a clear shield at all times to avoid this and preferably a clear windshield on your bike to maximize visibility. The straights are a gigantic wind powered windshield wiper for your helmet if you stick your head up in the air stream and move it from side to side. 4. Slippery when wet. Controls, pegs, tanks and other parts of the bike are not as easy to hold onto when your bike is wet. Be aware.
  2. 3 points
    Personally I love riding in the rain. Less traffic and at the end of the day it's like having your own private track when everyone packs up and leaves early. When other riders are angry and horrified about the R word I'm thinking "heck yea"! Some of the things that change in my riding in the rain. 1. Braking. Earlier, lighter, longer. Stretch out the braking zone and leave yourself a buffer just in case. 2. Lean angle. Less is more. You stay on the fatter part of the tire and maintain more traction. Hang WAY off the bike to reduce lean angle. The more you hang off even at slower speeds keeps you on the more stable part of the tire. 3. Line. It's critical to use ALL of the track available to flatten out the corners as much as possible. 4. Less aggressive quick steer. I have found that you absolutely still can quick steer in the rain if you stay reasonable with it. I worried the heck out of a CSS coach when he assigned me the quick steer drill in the rain. I performed the drill too. I even got a hug when I came back in one piece. 5. Throttle. You have to be a lot easier on the throttle especially when the bike is leaned over. On "analog" bikes once the bike is straight up and down you can use the throttle to "sample" traction. Give it gas and you can feel where the tire wants to spin just a bit. That is the fine line of where the traction ends. Don't cross the line especially when leaned over. (I would approach this with caution!). On bikes like the S1000RR in the right mode the bike will protect you for the most part on the gas. I find that I prefer sport mode or higher in the rain but rain mode is more protective and best to start out with. 6. Smooth counts. Abrupt and sloppy inputs that are ignored because of mega grippy tires are not tolerated at all by the bike in the wet. Stuff to watch out for! 1. Curbing. It's fine to run over curbing in the dry but in the wet that stuff becomes really slick. You have WAY less traction than you do in the dry on painted parts. 2. Panic. If you end up overdoing it don't panic!!!! With less traction the bike is much less willing to be forgiving for sloppy and abrupt inputs. If you enter a corner too fast just extend your braking past the optimal turn point and use the track you have available. Bring the bike down to a manageable speed and turn where you can. Yes you essentially "blow" the corner but by using the track you have you keep it on the pavement. 3. Tires. It's COMPLETELY true what was said about tire temps earlier. Your tires won't maintain temp. Not only are you dealing with the slick surface created by a wet track you are doing it essentially on cold tires. I set a cold pressure and leave it there. You can even experiment a bit with dropping the pressure but I'm not really sure it helps much and can potentially make the bike feel a bit mushy and imprecise if you overdo it. You still won't get a lot of heat in the tires. 4. Your physical condition. Riding in the rain seems easier but you do still get tired. Since you aren't sweating like crazy the fatigue sneaks up on you. I rode every single session of a wet track day only to figure out during the last session that I was a lot more fatigued than I realized. This fatigue can be both mental and physical. Stay sharp!
  3. 2 points
    It sounds to me as though you might not be taking into account how suspension affects tire grip. Are you, for example, assuming a completely rigid connection between the wheel and motorcycle, with no suspension action and a non-deformable tire? Are you assuming that the grip of tire to pavement is constant, and is at the theoretical maximum friction of rubber to asphalt? There is more grip available when the bike is upright because the suspension is more effective at keeping the tire consistently in contact with the pavement. There is a theoretical maximum friction that you can calculate but in real-world riding, the pavement is not perfectly flat or perfectly consistent so the theoretical grip (calculated from formulas, with assumptions and simplifications made - usually a LOT of them) is NOT the same as actual real-life grip. Does it make sense to you, in your actual riding experience, that you have more grip when the bike is more upright than when you are at maximum lean angle? If so, does it follow that as you stand the bike up, you HAVE more grip available, so that even though you were at the max (for that lean angle) a millisecond before, you now have MORE grip available because the bike is coming up, and any tiny slide that would have begun from the countersteering effort would be halted by that additional grip? One must be very careful when attempted to use physics formulas to calculate grip. There are MANY factors that are ignored, assumed constant, or simplified in order to make formulas or concepts easier to understand, but trying to apply theories that don't take into accounts the LARGE number of variables present in real-world riding can lead to some confusions. You can find numerous examples on this board.
  4. 2 points
    Good summary Hotfoot. I'd always thought of WSB like NASCAR, and MotoGP like F-1
  5. 2 points
    I recognize that I’m almost exactly 3 years late to this party, but the past three weeks I’ve been using the forum search function and scrolling through pages of posts on a tire heat/traction research assignment from Cobie, and this thread is definitely the best I’ve come across yet. Cobie, you’ve done a great job of engaging and drawing participants out; there’s been a symbiotic contribution-response at almost every point along the way. The only thing I can add is an over-simplification of the topic, but based on the posts, I believe we all understand it: ’Train until you get it right, Practice until you can’t get it wrong” This encompasses the training of a new technique, and the refinement of that technique into a solid repeatable action (perhaps unthought).
  6. 2 points
    1) Braking, while leaned over, can cause the bike to stand up, see my more detailed answer above. On a properly set up sport bike, accelerating does NOT cause the bike to stand up. Accelerating WILL increase the radius of a circle but WITHOUT changing lean angle. A rider who thinks the bike stands up because of the throttle is unconsciously steering it up with the bars. Note - a bike with a more extreme, non-neutral setup - like a chopper with a stretched out front end, or a bike with a serious suspension problem - may act differently. 2) No. You are adding load to the rear tire in two different ways at once and that can easily overload it and lead to a rear tire slide, without a lot of warning to the rider or time to correct it. Doing one at a time is a much safer approach. 3) Yes, the front forks are more extended which makes it more difficult to steer the bike and there is less weight on the front tire which affects traction - the most extreme example would be accelerating so hard that the front tire is off the ground, obviously at that point there is no traction at all on the front tire. 4) Coming off the throttle makes it easier to lean the bike. It compresses the front end which steepens the steering angle and makes the bike easier to steer. Braking lightly can do the same, however on many bikes braking REALLY HARD can make the bike harder to steer; I'm not sure all of the reasons for that but I think it has to do with overloading the front tire (deforming it) and suspension, not to mention the difficulty for the rider of keeping enough pressure off the bars to steer effectively under hard braking.
  7. 2 points
    Another factor I haven't seen mentioned is that as you lean over, the final drive ratio changes. the difference between upright and fully leaned is the equivalent of half a downshift. This puts the engine in a different part of the powerband and can alter the effect a given amount of roll-on has, seeming to amplify the torque as the lean angle increases.
  8. 2 points
    Pitts- I thought about your willingness to identify and resolve a training gap and I’m reminded of an online conversation about stress reactions that I think you were a participant of in our POA days. My recollection is that the forum was lopsided in the notion that one could train responses to any emergency situation, after all that’s what the FAA teaches us. Henning was dead set on the notion that SRs were hardwired into a person and that each person may only modify their personal SRs to some degree with training but in the end, there they were - a pessimistic approach, I agree but experience tells us that a morsel of truth is present. Even in my days as a student pilot with Jon, my instructor yelling at me and trying to intentionally induce stress, nothing happens in the cockpit very fast, perceptually; motorcycle - different ballgame. I don’t know why that is but I think what Keith Code describes as Sense of Space may apply. I am of the belief that stress cannot be induced in a laboratory, sans chemicals, and even that is different. In the times before me, the FAA emphasized stall recovery training, then they went to a model of stall awareness and avoidance in effort to curb low altitude Loss Of Control In Flight incidents. I haven’t done a statistical review to say if it is working or not, but I have had the experience of putting my training into real life practice, and I and my passengers are still here and they are none-the-wiser as to how close we came to LOCI on takeoff one hot summer day years ago. Perhaps it may be a worthwhile venture to revamp the HURT report to include a review of the efficacy of training methodologies on single- vehicle accidents. While it may or may not solve your particular malady, I perceive that you are motivated to discover something overlooked to benefit the community at large. Lastly, I also took note of your mention of “The Pace”. I do believe that is a definite gap in training and you may be in a good position to advance this ideology earlier in the training cycle and to also benefit by a review and dissection of it.
  9. 2 points
    Most likely the coach at the track day was trying to help riders avoid the common error of braking (which compresses the forks) then releasing the brakes (which allows them to extend again) then turning the bike (which compresses them again). This bouncing up and down is, as you can imagine, counterproductive to accurate and predictable steering. In a simple corner the ideal scene is to be coming off the brakes as you are turning the bike, so the forces transfer from the deceleration forces to the cornering forces and keep the forks compressed instead of popping up and back down again. As far as telling you how exactly how much effect that is going to have, it is not realistic to think anyone can do that for you, there are far too many variables (suspension setup, rider and bike weight, braking style, steering input rate, surface traction, shape of turn, and so forth). You will have to experiment with it yourself, on your own bike and observe it. Almost certainly YES you can improve it with riding technique (have you been to school and had the Hook Turn material yet? Or the slow brake release classroom session?), unless your front suspension is extremely stiff in compression or has rebound damping set excessively low. Definitely you can sharpen up the steering on a bike by lowering the front a bit, but if taken too far this can compromise stability and you can get headshake, or twitchiness in the steering. Not sure the GSXR750 would need much changing on geometry, though, my impression of those were that they had nice handling. In the specific turns you describe (T1 and T3), are you trying to turn the bike while still on the gas? For sure that will make it harder to steer. Are you ABLE to steer it now and just noticing the amount of effort required, or are you running wider than you want in those turns?
  10. 2 points
    My coach at Laguna Seca noticed I was getting on the throttle too early in the second part of turn 2. I told him the same thing, I begin a smooth, even, continuous roll on after steering is complete. He advised me that because a throttle roll-on tends to make a bike hold its line, I should begin roll-on when steering is complete and the bike is pointed where I want it to go. The little bit of extra time off the throttle did help me get a better line and drive out of the corner.
  11. 2 points
    Yesterday I received in my email, a Keith Code article, Speed and Direction and I think the article struck a chord with regard to what I’m trying to solve. The article isn’t yet posted in the articles section, so it must be new. From it, this particular section seemed relevant and as I slept overnight I awoke with a different idea on how it applies to my current barrier ”Any rider's true skill level can only be measured by his ability to determine exactly WHERE to change or maintain speed and direction and execute the right AMOUNT of each. There are no other components to skill.“
  12. 2 points
    Other than the slip between tyre and road, the engine is mechanically linked to the tarmac. By that it means that for any given speed, rpm is constant for a particular gear, regardless of throttle position. Let's say you need 5000 rpm to go 60 mph in 4th gear. Regardless of where the throttle is, be that full off or full on or anywhere in between, you will have exactly 5000 rpm at 60 mph in a straight line. Unless the tyre is spinning or the clutch is slipping. Now, if you lean over, the circumference of the tyre is reduced. This has a similar effect to lowering the gearing. But while lower gearing mean that the engine must turn more revolutions in order to get the wheel turned a certain amount of times, now the wheel must turn faster to maintain the speed, bringing the engine along with it. This could probably be explained much simpler, but as long as you remember that when the engine turns over X times it always makes the tyre turn Y times in gear Z. A smaller wheel must turn faster than a larger diameter wheel for any given speed, and so the engine must turn X+n to compensate.
  13. 2 points
    I thought I knew how beneficial it would be and I thought I knew what I wanted to get out of it. I was kinda wrong on both counts. The personal consultant approach makes the leap between L3 and L4 huge. Take what we all know about CSS coaches. They're well versed in the hangups regular humans have in riding motorcycles fast and they're incredibly skilled at breaking down those barriers and knowing what the riders need to become better. Now, take those skills and remove the confines of teaching 5 new skills in a day and just let them have the time to fix whatever needs fixing and that's the difference between L3 and L4. I was at SoW. I was struggling at the kink and it turned out the problem was actually starting at the turn-in for 8. This was nice but the next revelation was that I was turning too slowly. It never felt like it to me because I was able to hit my marks at the speed I was riding. But much like the previous issue, the solution was not what I expected. I thought once I had more pace, I'd turn more quickly. But once they got me to really turn more quickly, I found that I had to up my pace. Again, the solution to a known problem was far from intuitive. After circling SoW who knows how many times at basically the same pace (better form each time but never more pace), being forced to do quick-turn correctly (in my case, push-pull) forced me to approach the corners with more pace because if had turned more quickly at the same entrance speed, of course, I would have early apexed. This one change got me 9 seconds. Next year I'm going to find a stretch of 3 or 4 days at SoW and book multiple days at once. Primary focus (I think) will be T1. Can't wait.
  14. 2 points
    I found 2 exercises made a huge difference in my ability to ride without fatigue. They're both hitting the same area so you can do either one. Romanian deadlift and back hyper-extension. You can buy a kettle bell or some dumbbells for the deadlift and do them at home. If you belong to a gym, the hyper-extension allows for greater isolation but they both work great. Start light and do 20 reps a day for a couple of weeks. I found it not only made riding easier but also improved my posture. I'm never tired, my wrists never hurt, my back is strong enough stay low and move side to side without issues. Interestingly, I my fitbit records my rides as cardio.
  15. 2 points
    One thing I will mention - there is limited info available in the video above. You can hear the engine, see the rider's line and observe lean angle, but one thing you CAN'T tell is the relationship between the rider's throttle-hand INPUT and the engine response. So in the video above when you hear the engine rev up, it sounds odd in some places, like it revs up very quickly then flattens out a bit. That could be caused by traction control intervening (if it is present on this bike), by the tire spinning, maybe even by the clutch slipping - clutches wear out quickly on high horsepower race bikes, race starts are very hard on clutches - it is hard to tell without seeing data that shows throttle input. On the Superbike School student videos the camera is positioned so that the rider's hand is visible on screen, so it would become immediately obvious whether the rider's throttle input was smooth and consistent or not, plus the BMWs can tell you the actual difference between throttle INPUT (from the rider) and OUTPUT (after any traction control intervention) and the data logger can show tire slip rate, too, all of which would make it easier to analyze the video.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I am in need of better feel in my front braking system. Due to stock class rules, there are restrictions on what I can do to the bike. I can't change to Stainless Steel lines, upgrade calipers, master cylinder or rotors (I don't think), but it does appear that I can change the brake pads. I did some research into the various materials, but the articles I found only discuss costs, longevity and composition, but not much in the way of feedback and feel vs stopping power. My current setup (very likely OE Yamaha pads, but I'll have to verify - shame on me) feels spongy but has the capability to lift the back wheel off the ground with alacrity. Unfortunately I have experience with this, as it caught me off-guard when I had instead expected the front tire to slide on the cold pavement this Friday evening, but it never did. This is for my TT-R125 Minimoto trackbike. Which pad material could improve my feedback in what the brakes are doing and offer more progressive feel? Organic, Semi-Organic, Sintered, Metallic, etc.? I wasn't able to find out what the OE pad is made from, but I've put in an inquiry with a major parts distributor to see if they can help. UPDATE: The supplier says the pads “appear to be ceramic”.
  18. 1 point
    Good job working through the errors and reasons leading up to them.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    It was good to meet you too! This year has turned out to be a pretty good one, and now with the new bikes (I think there are multiple points that are improved on this compared to previous models, but they aren't bad by any means!). If you think of it, shoot me an e-mail when you register, and come say hello in the morning. Best, Cobie
  21. 1 point
    Trying to "crouch with your weight on the pegs at all times" would be very physically demanding. There are times when getting some weight off the seat is beneficial, like when riding over bumps, or to facilitate shifting across the seat (hip flick, from Level 3) but generally it is too exhausting to try never to put weight in the seat. You can find a lot of prior discussion on this topic if you do a search of the forum. Here is one thread to have a look at:
  22. 1 point
    Finally was able to get the video to play through. Thanks for posting it.
  23. 1 point
    Hi Apollo, We have some good threads on tires, but I'll take a quick swing at this: The goal is to discover traction, not assume it--I'm not of the opinion that one should just "trust" the tires--find out how good they are working! This is harder to do on the front, easier to do on the rear. If the morning is cool/cold, (and let's assume no tire warmers) then you have to put heat in the tires, which builds from flexing the carcass, so heat comes from the inside out. So start easy, gradually increase the pace. Straight line accel and braking help a little to flex the carcass, but still needs both sides warmed, which is achieved by cornering and putting them on a load, gradually increasing that load. On a modern Dunlop slick, this can take 3 laps on even just a cool day, maybe more on a cold day, or very first ride. On some very cold days, they won't ever get to temp. If you have a good lock on the bike with the lower body (arms are not being used to support the body), the front will feel like it's a bowling ball, stiff and slippery, not "hooked up" at all. As it warms, you will feel more resistance, it's "biting" more and will track a tighter line once turned in. This is a super short comment, we have a lot of good data up here on tires, and cold tires too. Let me know if this helps, or you need any assistance finding more info. Best, Cobie
  24. 1 point
    Hello from Seattle! A few weeks ago, I volunteered as a corner worker at The Ridge during a CSS class. I've heard nothing but great things about the class so I signed up for August 6 & 7th at VIR. I'm looking forward to the class, meeting fellow motorcycle fanatics, and trying out an S1000RR!
  25. 1 point
    Interesting point! Cheers! One of the reasons that I didn't want to use my knee as a lean angle gauge is that when your knee touches down, it doesn't mean that you can't lean any more. I prefer to spend my attention on feeling traction at the tyres and use that as my gauge. But I guess I'll just have to make an effort to try and stop pulling my leg in towards the bike... if you expect your knee to touch down, that means it can't surprise you, right?!?
  26. 1 point
    I see so much of myself here that I felt I needed to follow the discussion.
  27. 1 point
    I'd like to discuss rear slides a moment. In all cases below, the rider is leaned over in a turn. For simplicity sake, let's say the rider is mid-corner, established in said right turn and the corner is flat, level and symmetrical. Let's also define the apex of the corner as the geometric center of the turn. Let's also say the rider's throttle control is standard. Bike on dry pavement the rear end slides, the rider is loose on the bars and allows the bike to attempt to self-correct. Which way do the bars turn? Bike on a compromised surface and the rear end slides, the rider is loose on the bars and allows the bike to attempt to self-correct. Do the bars turn? Can the rider in either scenario turn the bars to give a corrective action? Is the answer the same for both conditions 1 and 2? If the rider give the opposite input to the bars in a slide scenario will the rider's action aggravate the situation? Is the answer the same for both conditions 1 and 2? After the above scenario #1, let's assume the rider's throttle control isn't standard. In fact, the rider has a timing error with the increased roll-rate and initiates a pickup of the bike post-apex in attempt to alleviate some of the turning forces. Due to the timing error, the throttle comes on at the same time (or perhaps with a microsecond lead) as an aggressive pick-up steering input. The rear end begins to slide. Is the slide in the same direction as above? Because the bike is vertical (or nearly so) but still following a circular trajectory which direction does the front end turn for corrective action? Can aggressiveness of a pickup cause an upset of traction? (I once called this a quick "un-flick")
  28. 1 point
    Pickup is a conscious decided effort. The rider intends to lift the bike to vertical at a much earlier point in the turn than allowing a lazy vertical movement later when the bike is decidedly passed the exit.
  29. 1 point
    This is pure speculation but I'd imagine that the front wheel begins to lift at a point well above 60% weight distribution. But if you could instead find a balance point where all of the power being used it for propulsion than lifting the front wheel, where would that be in relation to the ideal 60%?
  30. 1 point
    We care the most about inducing the 40/60 weight distribution via throttle control when we need maximum performance from the tires and the suspension, when cornering on asphalt as fast as possible. If, while cornering like that, we put more weight on one tire, we compress that suspension and load that tire beyond the optimum state or conditions. The suspension becomes harder, the contact patch becomes a little bigger and the profile of the tire less pliable. Following the irregularities of the pavement is more difficult for the tire. The rubber becomes less elastic and it changes its shape more slowly. Once the weight carried by that tire while cornering hard reaches a crtical point, the available traction that the over-loaded tire can offer rapidly decreases. During a leaned wheelie, all the weight of the bike and the rider is on the rear tire and on the rear suspension. That tire would not be able to develop the traction demanded by the lateral forces of extreme cornering, which normally surpass the value of that weight. The wheelie always happens during the way out of the corner and at a lean angle that is much smaller than the max lean angle required by that turn. If the rider tries to wheelie the bike at that max lean angle, when the lateral forces of cornering on the contact patch are close to the max, the tire would slide. The tire would not slide only if the rear contact patch has been unloaded enough from lateral forces in a way that its performance can be reduced by the the extra weight.
  31. 1 point
    Dylan brought up exactly the point one of the riding coaches at Grattan pointed out to me. My entry speeds are too low, so I'm grabbing a handful of throttle to make up for it. This is what I would like to work on at my next CSS visit (CODE Race in October)... The plot below is also MO, but from my DAIR suit instead of the BMW logger. It let me overlay my S1000RR lap (blue) with my other bike (red-Daytona 675R, running Dunlop Q3s). Sorry, the turn numbers are different from the BMW log. I learned all the tracks on my Daytona, and I know I need to adjust my braking points and entry speeds for getting more out of the S1000RR and slicks, but you can see in the overlay that I'm basically riding the two bikes the same, just accelerating and braking harder on the straights with the S1000RR. I'm actually faster through the chicane and keyhole (turns 10 and 11) with the Daytona, and this seems like a mental issue I need to sort out, as the S1000RR should be able to the do the same thing!
  32. 1 point
    Wish I had a computer to look at the video frame by frame... but I don't think there's anything too mysterious happening here... For those who have ever done a quick change of direction through a slalom or short chicane you might have noticed that it takes very little throttle (or any at all, if the steering rate is so quick?) to lift the front wheel as the bike is coming upright on the change of direction. This is because the steering rate is so great, you have the inertia of the bike coming from lean to upright, the mass of the bike combined with that inertia means that it wants to keep going up - hence lifting the front wheel. If you're then trying to lean the bike over in the other direction while the front wheel is in the air... well you can guess what happens. I've also seen this with strange geometry/weighting. It was on a work delivery scooter, bit of weight in the top box, a quick-ish u-turn or even just straightening up quickly out of a regular corner would bring the front wheel off the ground and cause a decent tank slapper if not controlled properly. Given the extremes that MotoGP racers are dealing with it wouldn't surprise me if Vinales front wheel came off the ground and caused him to crash.
  33. 1 point
    This is John Lee by the way... the one that ran into a little hiccup on my level 3 day. You guys went way above and beyond what was necessary and just wanted to say thank you again. Laura you were totally awesome looking out for me without hesitation. I noticed after reviewing some of my lap footage that between lvl 1+2 earlier in the month I didn't bother opening up the bike on the straights and just focused on the drills and cornering; and by level 4 I improved dramatically (on average 20% faster on the corners); so while in lvl 2 I would hit 140mph on the main straight in lvl 4 I stayed in 3rd gear 9k rpm even on the straight not trying to speed the straights and just focus on the corners and yet my overall lap times were faster; something both Laura and Pete pointed out. Definitely noticeable on the streets too. I'll post my personal riding issue in the Student Success Stories Still have a long ways to go but you guys gave me a great head start; I will be practicing until the next time. Thanks to my coaches along the way: Level 1 - Brian Level 2 - Connor Level 3 - Laura Level 4 - Pete You guys rock.
  34. 1 point
    I have the people and resources at my access- there's nothing preventing me from seeing if I can get some interest from the scientific community at my access. I will pitch it tomorrow.
  35. 1 point
    I'll try and explain it the best that I can. First in any engineering physics class covering classical mechanics involving circular motions will state in the book Centrifugal "Force" in quotes usually or at least call it a fake/false force. Second is to understand reference frames and in classical mechanics we use non-inertial reference frames. Take an example of you standing in the back of a pickup truck doing 50mph and throwing a tennis ball off the back away from the direction of travel; and you throw this ball say 20mph. Now you the thrower of the ball observe it clear as day moving in the opposite direction from the direction you're travelling... and at a rate of 20mph (which is correct in reference to you and the truck)... now take an observer standing off to the side of the road looking perpendicular to the road and he sees the ball still moving in the direction of the travel of the truck and you just at 30mph (which is also correct in reference to the observer). But which is "correct"; now ignore air resistance and gravity to the mix as we're not trying to calculate the rate of decrease of the speed and arc of the motion and so on... we're applying ideal physics to understand the parts we want to figure out what's going on. So in circular motion for an inertial reference frame one common example is that of you sitting on spinning disc (say a merry go round) and releaseing a ball on the disc and observe it in an outward motion; it's best to actually see it in effect to see how weird things get in difference reference frames... here's a video showing some non intuitive things occurring in that situation The biggest mistake the average person that doesn't have a lot of background in physics and just reads up on some aspects of it when researching circular motion is applying Newton's laws of motion incorrectly in an wrong reference frames; you probably heard people saying well yes there is this inward force called centripetal force but Newton's law says there is an equal and opposite force when not accelerating to give a net 0 force and that force is the centrifugal force. Only correct when in the inertial reference frame for this circular motion example. Another non intuitive mistake made is that almost all of us have been in a car at some point, and taken a turn or a curve, and we swear we are being pushed outward from the curve and that is the centrifugal force we "feel". But it's actually inertia you're feeling. Let's say you're in the passenger seat; on this turn (left turn) you are pushed to the door and say I'm going outward. But in fact the car is moving inward left turn; and you are still moving forward; so naturally you hit the door. So analyze a motorcycle taking a turn (left turn again); you know at any point you were only going straight and you added input to turn left and lean to the left. You can say you "feel" and outward force but analyze where did this magical outward force come from; we know the downward force is from gravity (which is mysterious in itself). When you lowside the bike and rider don't all of a sudden end up moving "outward" of the turn; they end up sliding forward (minus any weird tire contact of the wheel causing a different motion) but you get the idea. That's about the simplest way I can try and explain it.. but you want to apply physics in the discussion from text and online sources; majority of it will be from classical mechanics which is all non-inertial reference frames. A lot of people don't understand that part and apply intuition to the mix and confusion erupts. I plan on posting up some videos on some of the physics misconceptions after I review CSS when I go for lvl 1+2 next week. Personally I think a lot of the youtube instructions out there like ridesmart and individuals would do a lot better just explaining "do this to get this result" and leave out the why part; seems like 90% is accurate and then 10% is made up physics interpretation on their part and discredits the 90% they just got right.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    And Keith goes on to say this: "In real time and space, each 0.1-second that you stay away from the gas is over one bikelength of distance in a 60mph turn. In fact, it is 8.8 feet". (Page 26). That's a scary amount to lose, added up over the turns. You'll never gain it back. Me, I'm a terror for delaying getting back on the gas. But I'm trying to get better, I'm really am ..
  38. 1 point
    At least two are steering, and the third could be also, since being able to carry more entry speed has a lot to do with being able to steer the bike quickly! You mentioned earlier that you had the idea that you needed to be on the brakes to compress the forks to steer the bike - did (or does) that misconception create the entry speed problem and the mid-corner adjustment problem you are trying to fix? Can you (personally) steer the bike more quickly (and carry more entry speed) if you are not also trying to brake hard enough to compress the forks? It is certainly less to worry about, easier to gauge entry speed, and easier to control the steering action, if you are not trying to brake hard at the same time. To be clear, compressing the forks CAN tighten up the steering by compressing the forks (this steepening the steering angle) but it can also make the bike harder to steer (more effort) and I have been in at least one back-and-forth debate with Cobie about which is the greater effect. Personally I almost never use the front brake for the sole purpose of compressing the front end - if I don't need the brakes to slow down, I don't use them. One exception that I can think of is a VERY fast chicane where I have difficulty getting the bike steered fast enough (only at my max pace), and I am driving going into the chicane. In that one case I do SOMETIMES us the front brake a little to help me get the quick direction change, because otherwise the forks are extended coming into it, because I am accelerating coming into it, and the combination of speed, momentum, and fork extension makes the direction change difficult in that tight chicane. A touch on the brakes helps to get it flicked over from one side to the other, but it is a bit tricky to do and I need a lot of free attention to get it right.
  39. 1 point
    Here's what I do - it keeps me entertained. First, the boring stuff. On regular roads, just surviving in traffic, my target is mainly just to have zero scary moments. I ride in a way where if someone else doesn't see me and I have to take evasive action, I hold myself accountable. If I ever brake with locked bars where steering is affected, that's another ding. Can't remember the last time it happened tho. But basically, on boring rides where you can't play, my mental checklist of mistakes is all I think about it. My commute traverses a 5 mile mountain-peak road with beautiful curves, sheer drops, and smooth pavement... it's a track. On a road like this, my goals include all those others but I focus more on technique. There's a very steep downhill 90 degree turn into a driveway at the end. I practice braking without messing up the steering. There's a lot of slow traffic. I practice timing my passes. I don't really work up speed high enough to need the brakes, but at each corner, I practice rolling off the throttle. My goal is to get the timing perfect so that the engine braking doesn't slow me down too much and make the corner boring. I ride the "racing line" within my lane and practice the 3 step at every corner. I practice rolling on the gas coming out of every corner. If I'm stuck behind a slow car, I practice hanging off at speeds which don't allow much lean. I practice the hip flick and the light bar pressure, exercising my outer thigh and combine this will all the other things I'm working on. There are a couple of really tight corners (intersections) with changes in pavement which tempt my eyes to watch the apex way too long. I concentrate on wide vision to get me around those tight square corners smoothly, fast, and without drama. I don't know if I'm still improving but I know I'm not wasting my miles either. I'm blessed with a daily chance to reinforce what the good folks at CSS taught me. I have fun on the bike without giving up a safety margin and very few of of my rides have a close call (or any call where I depended on another driver to avoid me). So I get to my destination without feeling like luck bailed me out. If you want to know you're getting better, my advice is pick your favorite track and hook up a lap timer and start trying to "get better."
  40. 1 point
    are the "articles" archived? i remember one a few months ago (about weighting the foot pegs) and i never saved the email. gotta believe that good stuff is saved somewhere... and i'd like to re-read that email.
  41. 1 point
    After reading reviews and actually discussing with their respective tech support, I ended up with HM and Healtech being a tie; followed by Annitori quick shifter as a close 3rd. HM has good reviews but seems more prominent in Europe and not a large dealership in US; They also were priciest for what I wanted. But they seem to have an excellent product. What they lacked that Healtech offers (and Annitori) is the ability to adjust and tune via bluetooth smartphone app; where HM you use the gearshift and an LED panel on unit. Healtech has a number of distributors in US and good pricing. Install is also very easy. What dropped Annitori to third was a number of reports of the unit misbehaving and cutting out the ignition at wrong times. The Healtech can be turned off via app, or unplugged and a jumper installed so it won't strand you. Its also VERY adjustable "if" needed. As I said, totally not needed on street but should be lots of fun.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Ha ok. Well the socks I'm currently wearing are samples from a manufacturer that were sent to me for testing. I have been a huge fan of bamboo and my favorite socks are no longer available. So out of sheer "being totally desparate" I'm testing out as many yarns as I can as I'd like to make my own socks specifically for riding. So far I'm on day 3 of wearing them and they still smell like roses. They are unbelievably soft as well, pretty much like walking on clouds. I'm going to wash them a number of times to see how they wear, but I've been told they stay soft just like my bamboo socks did. Another bonus, they are supposed to be extremely durable. I can show you the fabric end of this month when I'm at CSS but they will be well worn by then so beware hahah. I looked up "tencel socks" and there are a few companies that use the yarns so I think in the mean time I'll find a good company and buy my daily wearers from them. I truly don't think I can go back to pure cotton, poly, or nylon. Especially cotton.
  44. 1 point
    For club racing the ninja 250/300 spec class has got to be the most affordable option. Tires last a long time, don't use much gas, limited modifications allowed, low maintenance bike.
  45. 1 point
    Oh this is a very cool topic! I follow my instincts closely and also believe that sometimes the universe is telling you things. If its a God or a spirit or just the the "universe" it doesn't matter. The fact of the matter is that I cope better under tension knowing that there is greater force out there with some sort of intent. For example, if I get a strong feeling that I should not be riding, I likely won't go out that session, or at least I won't push it hard. I've had many instances where my instincts were right (Ie mechanical failure during a race). Also if something does happen like my bike going for a slide or the engine blowing, I usually feel that it was meant to happen for a reason. This lowers my stress levels, allows me to accept the situation as it is and make steps to move forward without all that wasted energy on blaming myself, others, etc. I also feel more confident at times, knowing that I've got some sort of guardian angels watching over me. I think religion helps us with tuning in a little closer to our bodies, to our instincts. It takes a lot of the stress of life off of our hands and puts it in the hands of a higher power. It is a powerful coping mechanism. It is humbling and liberating to know there is some greater stuff out there that we don't understand and that we don't have to try to take full control over everything. To top it off, I think whatever someone believes about themselves and their capabilities...is true.
  46. 1 point
    OK. So... if you don't have a point picked out for an apex AND haven't looked in toward the apex, you don't really have any info about where you want the bike to go - so how confident will your quickturn be? This is a good review exercise for forum members, what is the timing on 2-step? When should you spot your turn point and when should you look in to the apex? Spot your turn point as soon as possible because it controls many decisions (where to brake, when to downshift, etc.). Without reference points, there is no turn point. No bueno. The time to look at your apex is just before you reach the turn point. A rider requires a turn point to have the attention left to spend on his next reference point, the apex. If a rider is confident on his/her location (turn point/reference point), the rider is "free" to look at the apex just before flicking the machine into the turn. Like in real estate, location, location, location is of primary importance. You must have RPs to get your through the turns; you can relax on the straights.
  47. 1 point
    I suppose that's one unique incentive to get on the gas early.
  48. 1 point
    Great article. I find the following the most interesting. The Stages of Body Positioning There are three stages to body positioning: Poor form + poor riding = ripple-effect, snowballing errors. Good riding + poor form = good but limited range of control. Good form + good technical riding skills = riding that is both fluid and efficient. I fell into #2 for quite some time. Improving my form on the bike has given me new found confidence. I am finding that I am having to "re-learn" steering in some cases because of how well the bike turns now. I have found that physical fitness plays a huge role in good form for me. Being physically stronger in my lower body gives me a more stable base and less fatigue when repositioning on the bike frequently. I learned this the hard way this past Level 4 when I had a great on track session where I made some major breakthroughs. When I got back to the pits and got off the bike I found it difficult to walk because my lower body was angry with me for demanding so much out of it.
  49. 1 point
    I wonder whether that 25 Correction Points is listed/mentioned somewhere? I did the Steering Drill during a 2-Day Camp - and I think several points to "fix."
  50. 1 point
    For me finding a turnpoint and quickflipping the bike goes hand in hand, whenever my steering gets slower I follow lines and not points any more, and following lines eventually makes me tired and less concentrated.
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