Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    A skill I learned as a young rider, is best explained by an anthropology text discussing the relationship between research and imagination. It spoke of “soft vision, hard focus”. Ones hard focus is on the road well ahead, this is maintained while also allowing oneself soft vision out in the periphery of ones vision. on your bike this means that one remains actively aware of what’s going on outside the focus of ones attention. Thus although my focus is often ( on rural roads) two corners ahead watching for oncoming vehicles, landslides and road debris. In my soft vision is placing me on the road, alert to surface and random animals walking out in my immediate viscinity. In terms of cornering it is my soft vision that marks my arrival at the turn in point already. I can tell by three or four inches whether I hit my mark. When navigating blind corners. The hard focus varies between 2000-300 metres ahead to the next corners, right down to 30 metres on those nasty closing radius blind corners. On those corners the eye follows the vanishing point alert to the need to radically change my chosen line. But.soft focus deals with all the little details of road placement. It is all very active and meditative, especially when I’m fully in the groove. Dodging unexpected sheep, and oncoming trucks that cut corners is handled almost entirely by the soft vision aspect. The hard focus in those instances looks to those avenues of escape that I spotted previously: hunting and tracking the gap. Hard focus turns my head. Soft vision looks everywhere else. another comparison is player of ping pong, or boxers neither focuses on the ball, or the fist, they look hard at the opposing player, and rely on soft vision to hit the ball or block the fist. hope this helps those who get lost vision wise.
  2. 1 point
    I can't tell if you are serious or joking with this post. Tensing your gut to steer the motorcycle? Turning your head to steer it? Pull the inside bar outwards? Regarding you comment about the No BS bike, the further you are from the center of mass of an object, the more leverage one has on it. The No BS bars are quite high, therefore have more leverage and still can't get the bike steered with any efficiency.
  3. 1 point
    One could describe this vision as ping pong vision. In ping pong one focuses attention on the opponent and use wide vision/peripheral vision to track and return the ball. One never focuses on the ball at all. Another description that is relevant in hard focus( long sight) and soft vision ( in the near/ wide zone). Rather than think of this as being zoned out, it is more useful to think of it as an active meditation. Note it is quicker to shorten ones gaze than to lengthen it. When focusing on near objects the distant objects are more out of focus, than near objects when looking afar due to the optics of the eye. note also the brain handles movement in peripheral vision much better than at the focus of ones gaze, that is why ping pong players attend to the opponent rather than the ball. When riding using peripheral vison to watch the near field actually means the brain processes all the seeming fast moving near objects much more swiftly, even if they are all out of focus.
  4. 1 point
    Higher RPM in a corner does make a difference in motorcycle handling. Take a look at this article: https://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2182 There is also the effect of greater engine braking approaching the turn, which may have allowed you to shorten your braking distance, or use less brake and get a more accurate entry speed.
  5. 1 point
    Personally I love riding in the rain. Less traffic and at the end of the day it's like having your own private track when everyone packs up and leaves early. When other riders are angry and horrified about the R word I'm thinking "heck yea"! Some of the things that change in my riding in the rain. 1. Braking. Earlier, lighter, longer. Stretch out the braking zone and leave yourself a buffer just in case. 2. Lean angle. Less is more. You stay on the fatter part of the tire and maintain more traction. Hang WAY off the bike to reduce lean angle. The more you hang off even at slower speeds keeps you on the more stable part of the tire. 3. Line. It's critical to use ALL of the track available to flatten out the corners as much as possible. 4. Less aggressive quick steer. I have found that you absolutely still can quick steer in the rain if you stay reasonable with it. I worried the heck out of a CSS coach when he assigned me the quick steer drill in the rain. I performed the drill too. I even got a hug when I came back in one piece. 5. Throttle. You have to be a lot easier on the throttle especially when the bike is leaned over. On "analog" bikes once the bike is straight up and down you can use the throttle to "sample" traction. Give it gas and you can feel where the tire wants to spin just a bit. That is the fine line of where the traction ends. Don't cross the line especially when leaned over. (I would approach this with caution!). On bikes like the S1000RR in the right mode the bike will protect you for the most part on the gas. I find that I prefer sport mode or higher in the rain but rain mode is more protective and best to start out with. 6. Smooth counts. Abrupt and sloppy inputs that are ignored because of mega grippy tires are not tolerated at all by the bike in the wet. Stuff to watch out for! 1. Curbing. It's fine to run over curbing in the dry but in the wet that stuff becomes really slick. You have WAY less traction than you do in the dry on painted parts. 2. Panic. If you end up overdoing it don't panic!!!! With less traction the bike is much less willing to be forgiving for sloppy and abrupt inputs. If you enter a corner too fast just extend your braking past the optimal turn point and use the track you have available. Bring the bike down to a manageable speed and turn where you can. Yes you essentially "blow" the corner but by using the track you have you keep it on the pavement. 3. Tires. It's COMPLETELY true what was said about tire temps earlier. Your tires won't maintain temp. Not only are you dealing with the slick surface created by a wet track you are doing it essentially on cold tires. I set a cold pressure and leave it there. You can even experiment a bit with dropping the pressure but I'm not really sure it helps much and can potentially make the bike feel a bit mushy and imprecise if you overdo it. You still won't get a lot of heat in the tires. 4. Your physical condition. Riding in the rain seems easier but you do still get tired. Since you aren't sweating like crazy the fatigue sneaks up on you. I rode every single session of a wet track day only to figure out during the last session that I was a lot more fatigued than I realized. This fatigue can be both mental and physical. Stay sharp!
  6. 1 point
    I had that bike..., my old trackbike was a VFR400/NC30 heavily modified, lightened and well suspended, with 60 ish hp in a perfectly fuelled easyrevving V4 engine. But it was too fragile and spares harder and harder to get, so had to go a 150 kg ready to ride, 100 hp, race focussed bike is ideal
  7. 1 point
    Believe it or not, I am talking about 5 full seconds ! I just could not believe it myself. And I am not finished preparing the bike, optimising it for my size (still playing around with the position of the rearset...the bike has to get a custom map, which I did not have time to go for...right now I got a very good map from a race team, but each bike is different...a lot of useless parts still to be removed to make it lighter.). But that's the thing. more than 10 corners, 0.5 s per corner. I hit my apex way better, I get on the throttle way earlier. The lap goes down pretty fast...and I am using the very same GPS lap timer as before, so no issue there. I was actually very surprised how much faster I was. And I got lots of pictures...and watching the pictures, well, it's obvious. As I am much more accurate with my apex, I now have my entire body over the curbs every single time (it was more variable with my HP4 and my friend's s1000rr), my lean angle is much higher. Just unbelievable. And when I will have put a better rear shock, and springs that are more adapted to my weight (right now, they are all OEM), I think there will be no comparison possible. Also the steering damper, actually, could be upgraded. I find the front fork to be very good (at least at my level ! More expert riders may think otherwise).
  8. 1 point
    Hi Ducatmh, Sorry for the late reply...was away from the forum for a while. So yes, I went with a new R1...It was a very difficult decision...and I am just soooo happy with the bike. Since I have also ridden again a 2016 track-only s1000rr from a friend...on the same day with my R1, same track...and I have to say that my R1 is just in an league on its own compared to the BMW (to me, we all have different styles, levels, expectations, tastes, favorite tracks...so this is only my personal opinion and by no mean statement about which bike is best...the R1 is best...for me). Hard to say where to start. First, yes, the 2016 s1000rr is much easier to take around than the older versions...but man, the R1? I can ride twice as long, faster and be less tired than even on the new s1000rr (and the one I used is really well prepared for the track). It's light, turns like a charm, the chassis is just unbelivable. Just for an example: I got the R1, did the "brake-in" of 1000 km on the road (a very painful bike for the road !), switched to a Spark decat exhaust...and that's it...no further mods than a set of race fairing...nothing. Went to my favorite track (the one I go to all the time so I know it by heart). First few laps to get used to the bike...second session of the morning...I was 5 s faster per lap than on my track-ready HP4 (with the full titanium exhaust, HP Power Race ECU etc...etc...). The bike, except for the exhaust, was basically stock ! And since, my lap times are going down down down. Sure with the 2016 s1000rr, I am faster than with my HP4 too...but nowhere near as fast as with the R1 (except on the straight line where it's hard to beat the BMW...but good lap times are made in the corners !) So pros and cons... To me, honestly, it depends how much you want to modify the bike. Yes, the BMW has a stronger engine. More hp, high in the rpm, it's definitively more powerful than the R1...true...compared to the stock R1. I switched my entire harness on the R1 for a YEC harness with YEC ECU, a proper mapping from a race team...and the R1 engine become brutal (in fact, I don't use the most aggressive power delivery anymore...it's too much...that's a tip that a race team gave me here. Once full YEC, the power 1 is brutal and the power is not transmitted to the track well enough...it's not in fact as efficient). Even in the power 2 mode, at 250 km/h in 5th gear, if I go WOT, the front wheel goes up. It's just incredible. Basically, the absolute power on paper may remain a little lower than with the BMW (or on dyno), but the power is better transmitted to the track...so you actually do accelerate faster. My top speed on the straight of my favorite track with my R1 is actually higher than what I reached with my friend's 2016 s1000rr (which is very well setup, with RCK3, mapping etc...). So if you are ready to go YEC, then the R1 engine is an absolute blast. The noise is way more exciting, the power actually is incredible, the torque is way higher...it's amazing. - Electronics on the R1 is superior for sure. I like riding without too much assistance. But there electronics are incredible, and their tuning so much easier than on the BMW. - Comfort on the BMW is superior. - Technical support (at least here) for a track bike is better at Yamaha. Example: with BMW, when I put an HP Race ECU (although it IS a BMW product), my warranty was voided. Right away. At Yamaha, I asked...I can mod the bike, change exhaust, electronics, the harness, the ECU...as long as I don't open the engine, my warranty is still valid. And even if I open the engine to modify it, as long as it is performed by Yamaha people, then it's all good...that's a bit of a better support for a track bike !!! - The R1 is obviously designed for the track to start with. Simple example: all the screws for the fairings are already quick dzus. So no need to put adapters etc...for your race fairings. If you buy a good brand, it adapts right away on the bike, with dzus screws. I got my fairings, and they were on the bike in about 10 minutes. - With the s1000rr, you can switch off the Race ABS. With the R1, you cannot. But on the other hand, it does not matter to me, as once you put on the YEC system, the ABS is gone anyway. And I personally still have to activate the the ABS on the track. I do think I brake fairly strong...never activated the ABS, neither on the BMW nor on the R1. - If you work on the R1 yourself, everything is easier. It is clearly built to be modified. - For the R1...everything is cheaper. From the race parts, to the servicing etc... Anyway, I can go on and on, and if you have more specific questions, don't hesitate. I am not here to say the 2016 s1000rr is a crappy bike. It IS an awesome bike. But for a track-only bike, after having just left everybody behind for a few years, BMW has been beaten by Yamaha, according to me. The R1 is just a better track bike (again, for me !). Horrible on the road, but amazing on the track. And the most common thing you can read is that the s1000rr has a better, more powerful engine...yes...true...stock...but do a simple mod for the R1 engine, and it actually beats the s1000rr engine even similarly modified (again, I am comparing my R1 with the YEC ECU with a 2016 s1000rr with the RCK3, both bikes with proper mapping)... maybe not on the dyno, but on the track, when it's about transmitting that power to the asphalt, the R1 ends up being actualy more powerful, and you can feel it. My R1 is scary sometimes !
  9. 1 point
    Do you have a copy of Twist of the Wrist II? Chapter 19, Pivot Steering, goes into specific detail about weight distribution on the seat and pegs, explains what to do, how to do it, and why, with specific explanations and examples of the effects on the bike. It's far more complete and informative than what could be typed here. Take a look at that if you can and let us know what you think, or if you have any additional questions! BTW, if you are like me and want answers as fast as possible, Twist of the Wrist II is available as an e-book now, here is a link to it on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-High-Performance-Motorcycle-ebook/dp/B00F8IN5K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461194283&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist+II+kindle