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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Let's touch on one thing: bike doesn't turn as well when the throttle is on, even just maintenance throttle. When off throttle, bike weight is forward, more on the front, steering angle is steeper, wheelbase is shorter--the bike turns better. Does anyone know a single turn where braking is done, then gas on, then bike turned,? As mentioned earlier by trueblue550 (Streets of Willow Springs) there are series of turns where the throttle is stopped for a moment to complete the steering (T 4-5), or where rolling it on puts the rider too wide for the next turn in point (T5-T6). These are situations where there is a series of turns, the following one dictating the exit of the previous turn.
  2. 2 points
    It's a big subject at the schools these days, we see it a lot. One point that comes up as the cause is....too low turn entry speed. But...that has to be brought up gradually, or one gets into the minus is too much entry speed, a challenge to juggle. If it were easy, likely wouldn't be so much fun when you get it right :).
  3. 1 point
    I tried it once. Brake-Throttle-Turn. There’s a loop (or used to be) near me called “Harry S” (Truman Drive) a couple of long sweeping right turns, banked a little -a good place on the street to get the knee down. I found it could be a useful technique. I abandoned it when it betrayed me on the final left turn at home that day after many laps on Harry S- I lost the front trailing the brakes off (something slippery? - I felt it go- almost in slow motion) and broke my foot peg and a small foot bone. I found that the technique wasn’t at fault, my timing and application of it was, but it as a trained reaction contributed to the inability to recover after I felt the front bite again when the brakes released and the wheel roll. I needed that tire to press on the pavement and when the throttle was applied there wasn’t enough front traction to keep the rubber side down.
  4. 1 point
    Hello! My husband (Rob) and I (Linda) attended the SOW class. We are from Victoria BC. We had a blast! We are looking forward to getting our times 🤪 Hoping Coby got over his zombie vampire thing 😁
  5. 1 point
    Don't tell anyone, just continue to act immature (that's my story anyway).
  6. 1 point
    I did! Some silly minor eye infection, and I didn't have time to go to the doc! It was gone a day or so later, but yeah...small children and old people were warned to stay away.
  7. 1 point
    Been universally liked by most for the position, and the handling (I'm riding it more aggressively in the turns than I did my 2018.
  8. 1 point
    I know the video. I know the tuner and have had my bike tuned by him. I've consulted with him on reading my tires. The video confused me too, but only when trying to make it fit into CSS philosophy. He's not the only advocate of this timing method (I did a 2-up ride with such person who runs a long-standing school at an East Coast track). The best I can say about it, is that the goal is to untrain street habits with throttle shyness. However, it can become a potential issue if applied as a "this is how you ride' mantra as it will require the geometry to be setup with a bias to account for this style. Thanks for starting the discussion on it. I wanted to but didn't know a good way to discuss it; I'm glad you did.
  9. 1 point
    Start rolling on the throttle as soon as the steering action is complete and you are on the correct line through the corner. If you charge the turn, or over-cook it, you will be struggling to get on the correct line, or maybe even to stay on the blacktop! If this happens, no doubt your roll-on will be delayed until you get pointed where you need to be. If the road is damp or grip is low, good throttle control is that much more important.
  10. 1 point
    The very first thing I learned from Keith was from that classroom scene in the TOTW II video: "Once the throttle is cracked open, it is rolled on evenly, smoothly and constantly throughout remainder of turn." In my opinion, when I feel I need maintenance throttle it is because my entry speed was too low. I can't imagine getting on the gas before turn in. In some sections like turns 4/5/6 at SOW, I may not ever close the throttle all the way but just stop rolling on while turning.
  11. 1 point
    I think back to the nearly unrideable bikes of my youth. The Kawasaki H2 750 leaps to mind. The bike was designed with the track in mind, and top riders at that. Then it was sold to the masses for use on the street. The power band was narrow, and when you hit it it hit very damn hard. 'learning' to ride it was just learning how to not die. The S1000RR on the track was my only experience with a sport bike, and for a machine with such big numbers in power and torque, it seemed like a cinch to ride. I have to assume it's not my native talent, so that would be software correcting for my attempts to push outside the design parameters due to ignorance, supporting what CoffeeFirst posted above. My new ride has ride modes, 4 from the factory and one you can edit at your peril. These are now a necessary part of the modern sport bike, precisely because they are for sale to people like myself that are enthusiasts that are STILL LEARNING. Meaning, of course, that we make a lot of errors. So, to Jaybird180 I would say that the ultimate goal of a rider may well be to learn to ride the bike to the edge of computer intervention. To actually know by experience and feel where the edges are before the nanny functions step in.
  12. 1 point
    I have not re-read that section specifically to answer this, but I am going to have a go anyway based on my understanding of the subject... WHEN exactly should you start your roll-on? When you have completed your turn-in and are satisfied with where the bike is pointed - as soon as possible. How MUCH should you roll on? Enough to transfer the weight to the rear tyre to achieve optimum cornering load on the tyres (40/60) How does good throttle control affect the suspension and traction? Suspension is now in the most usable range (middle third) and traction is optimised by giving each tyre the amount of load determined by the size of contact patch (40/60) Is it possible to roll-on too early? If so, when would be too early and how would that affect your line? It IS possible to roll on too early. Too early would be before you have completed the turn in, and before you have the bike pointed in the right direction. This would make your line widen. What happens if you roll on too LATE? Rolling on too late - hmmm... You would be loading the front for too long in the corner, suspension loaded, tyre loaded, scrub off alot of speed, therefore may get gas greedy to try to make up for it... Also, the bike's tendency is to go wide, and you would have to steer the bike in more and more to keep your line, therefore increasing lean angle unnecessarily... And suspension will be compressed, so possibility of dragging hard parts and lifting a tyre perhaps?? What happens if you roll on too MUCH? Roll on too much will make the bike go wide by extending the front forks too much too quickly. Worst case you can break traction of the rear tyre and SR#1 can kick in (chopping throttle) and turn into a high side... But Throttle Control Rule # 1 would have prevented all of this. Once it is cracked on (as soon as possible after the turn in is completed), it should be rolled on smoothly, evenly and constantly for the remainder of the corner. Even in the case of rear wheel slide, checking the throttle can regain traction gradually, where chopping it obviously creates a violent regaining of traction... So... How'd I do??
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