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  1. 3 points
    MotoGP riders are typically trying to dial up as much engine braking as possible. They can also dial it in or out for specific turns by GPS. If you are riding a track that is very "stop and go" with a lot of braking zones, I would dial it up. If it is a flowing track with transitions, I would use less engine braking so the bike does not pitch forward if you feather out of the throttle in a transition.
  2. 3 points
    Here is some info from Dylan that you might find interesting: Dunlop just released a new sportbike tire, the Q4. This tire is different from what many think it is. It is NOT an improved Q3+ but rather a whole new category of tire. Its purpose is to provide a street legal tire with excellent grip, no need for warmers, that is at home on the track or on your favorite twisty road. Essentially it fills the gap between the Q3+ and the street legal race tire, the GPA Pro. So the progression looks like this: Q3+. Best all purpose tire. Harder center band for commuting, with sides well suited for cornering. Q4. Best for trackdays and canyons/twisty roads. Warms fast, less sensitive to pressure settings. Single compound across entire tread. Any loss in overall mileage is gained in grip compared to Q3+. GPA Pro. Essentially a race slick with grooves. Warmers strongly recommended particularly when cool and pressures checked and set before riding. Street legal. Poor choice for commuting but good for twisty roads and very much at home on the track. Slicks. Pure track only tire. Warmers strongly recommended with pressures checked and set before riding.
  3. 3 points
    Hi JP, Your questions are good. There are a number of factors that come into play, and one answer won't work for all turns/situation. The one that will give the most problems is increasing throttle and lean angle together, that's usually a big no-no. Have you read any of Twist of the Wrist 2, or seen the video? That will give you some great guidelines. Best, Cobie
  4. 3 points
    Some riders, when learning about quick turn, think a rapid steering change is accomplished with a quick jab at the bars. Sometimes that quick jab does not have enough force to turn the bike quickly at speed, sometimes it is too roughly applied and upsets the bike, sometimes the rider does not (when trying to "punch" the bar") hold the pressure long enough to achieve the desired lean angle. Bear with me, I am just asking some questions to explore your understanding of various techniques, to see if anything comes to light that will solve your challenges through the turns you describe. You mentioned a "fear or inability to lean the bike far enough when going fast(er)". I'm going to fire some questions at you and let's see what comes up: Do you have a concern about traction? Are you concerned about ground clearance? Are you comfortable that you know how much you want/need to lean the bike to get to the apex in T1, for example? Do you know how to stop the bike from leaning over any farther once you get the desired lean angle? How much visual information do you have before you turn the bike? Do you have an apex chosen, and do you look at it early enough before you steer the bike to have certainty in your steering input? If you roll off the gas or go flat on it, are you finished steering the bike before you roll back on? I am not discounting the idea that there could be things that could be done, mechanically, to the bike to make steering it through those turns easier, however you asked about techniques that could improve things so that is why I am exploring to figure out what you are doing now, and if there are things that could be changed to help you get to the apex on these turns... without having to slow down too much.
  5. 3 points
    I have almost no experience with V twins, but there are some things that can help with that problem in general, that might apply to your bike. Have you tried turning up the idle? This is a common thing to do on a track/race bike so the rpms don't fall as much when off the gas and it can really help make the roll on smoother. It does have the effect of taking you into the corner a little quicker so be cautious when you first start riding it that way. On an inline 4 I believe typical advice is to turn it up 500 - 1,000 RPM, but you should Google recommendations for your bike. What gear are you using entering the turns, are you a gear lower than you need to be? Sometimes just entering a corner in a higher gear makes enough difference in smoothness to be worth it, especially on a bike with a lot of torque that can handle coming out at a lower RPM. I assume you have checked for play in the throttle and cable, to eliminate any jerk or effort from just taking out the slack. An aftermarket tune is, in my opinion, a great idea. The other suggestions above don't cost anything, and this does, but you can get a really nice improvement in throttle response from working with a tuner and a dyno. Tunes that I have done on my bikes have yielded performance in power but MUCH more benefit in the area of getting better throttle response. (Better meaning, working how I wanted it to work!)
  6. 3 points
    Yes, it could be that you are at your desired lean angle (steering action complete) but not yet pointed in the direction you want the bike to go. Sometimes there is a pause as you wait for the bike to come around onto the desired line. Turn 2 at Laguna is a GREAT example of a turn where it is VERY easy to get on the gas a little too early in the second part of the turn and miss the apex - which is punished immediately upon the exit because it is tight and forces the rider to make a correction to avoid going off track. It is also really easy to come on the throttle a little bit too early when chasing a faster rider, trying to catch up, or keep up.
  7. 3 points
    I went to Thunderhill West this past weekend with my dad. I was doing level 4 for Saturday and Sunday. Saturday felt great, I learned the track, I felt fast, and left feeling like I could get through the track comfortably. Sunday came and for some reason it was a different story. I went off track three times and would let my SR's take over in Turn 1. I could not figure it out. I felt like I was only adding 10-15 mph down the straight just to up my pace. Why was this such a big deal?! First of all, after consulting with Johnny, adding that much speed is too much. I needed to add it gradually, 1 mph at a time even. Gerry was my coach for Sunday. We found that my vision was hindering me. By adding that much speed, I had to PLAN for my turn point earlier. I just kept focusing on the turn point itself and by the time I hit it, I was already beyond it and therefore turning in late with a new sense of speed....I would panic and become stiff on the bars. Gerry coached me to look WAYYY ahead. Go at my normal pace, and look wayyyyy ahead at Turn 1. I did and suddenly the track felt slower. I felt like I was scooting along on a pedal bicycle down the straight and going into Turn 1. I got my lap times recorded for Sunday. My fastest lap time of a 1:40 was during my second session, when I was still affected by my vision. Surrounding that time was a bunch of 1:50's or even 2:00 +. Crazy variance..... After listening to Gerry and using my vision to slow things down for the last session, my lap times were consistently 1:43 1:44 and staying in that range. I know it is slower, but the consistency is important. This shows me that if I can stay consistent, I can begin to work on my speed. I was doing the same thing every single lap and talking to myself in my helmet, "2 step, no greys." This meant use the two step and look way ahead. No greys meant to not hit the gray curbing at all and to look 4-inches to the side of the curbing so I could place my front wheel there. I wanted to thank Gerry and Big Andy for their coaching on both days as well as Johnny for his consulting between sessions both days. We came up with a plan every time and after execution, the results were showing in timed laps as well as overall confidence on the track. Gerry also taught me how to use my peripheral vision to sense movement. This would help with passing others and my goodness it made such a difference to my whole experience!!! I was passing other riders safely and with enough space and speed. It really changed things. I cannot wait to implement this at my next track day/ race. I will take time today to write down my plan for my home tracks and how to approach different corners. I really like that once you leave a track with CSS and go to your home track, you can apply what you learned to your home track. You did not have to sit there and say, "okay I learned the track with them...why don't them come here so I can learn my track with them?" It is more like, "OH! This turn is JUST LIKE turn 2 at Thunderhill! I know how to do this!" Thank you all for the great weekend and learning. We will be back and my dad wants to do Level II! The photo below is of my dad and I. I caught up with him for the photo op to look like a doofus (I am on 21 and he's on 22).
  8. 3 points
  9. 2 points
    The book that you have mentioned has the answer to your original question: "What makes the bike turn the same as it was leaned more without hanging off? It is explained in Chapter 3: Less lean angle requires more effective steering angle in order to keep the same radius of turn (please, see figure 3.18 of page 3-13): "Increasing lean angle tends to increase the effective steering angle." It is a simple geometrical problem, there is no need to complicate it with camber thrust, slip angles, etc., because the magnitudes of the forces of cornering and the dynamic lean angle remain the same, either or not you hang-off. The chassis reduces its lean angle when the rider hangs-off while cornering, which changes the relative geometry among the three planes: the ones containing the rear tire, the steered front tire and the curve (track surface).  You may want to do the following experiment: Fill up a wide recipient with water (the surface of the water will work like the plane of the curve). Make a central 10-degree bend in a small rectangular piece of cardboard (one side will work like the plane containing the rear tire and the other side like the plane of the front tire). Keeping the bent edge and both sides vertical, deep the piece of cardboard into the water. Looking from above, turn the cardboard just like a bike would lean over to turn and note how the angle formed between both lines that intersect the surface of the water and each side of the cardboard gets bigger as the lean angle increases. That angle is the effective (or kinetic) steering angle, which would force the bike to turn tighter (reduced radius of turn) if the rider would not compensate for this phenomena by steering a little less. If that experiment still does not convince you, we could use the following well stablished formula: Radius of turn = [Wheelbase x Cosine of chassis lean angle] / [Steer angle x Cosine of caster angle] As wheelbase gets a little bit smaller and caster angle remains constant, when the rider hangs off while cornering, the cosine of the chassis lean angle increases (example: cos 45=0.707 and cos 40=0.766). That change would increase the radius of turn some, making the bike run wide respect to the desired trajectory. In order to avoid that from happening, the rider must compensate by increasing the steer angle a little. Another geometrical way to analize that: Imagine a perfectly vertical line running underground by the center of the circular trajectory of the motorcycle. Disregarding slip and camber thrust, the extended axis of both wheels must intersect with that vertical line. As those wheels are leaned more, the point of intersection moves deeper into the ground, which reduces the angle formed between the extended axis of both wheels. Hence, the steering angle must be reduced some in order for the bike to keep tracing the same circular trajectory.  A leaned motorcycle will always have an effective steering angle that is smaller than the one for a 4-wheel vehicle describing the same curve.  The exercise of Motorcycle Gymkhana is a different solution to a problem that is different: make the tightest quick turn around a cone. The maximum speed at maximum lean angle will make you slower in this particular case, try that experiment as well. Since speed must be much smaller than during normal Superbike track cornering, the smallest radius of turn of the rear tire is the key to turn the bike 180 degrees as quickly as possible. For the same reason explained above, the Gymkhana rider wants the chassis to be as leaned as possible during the slowest section of the tight turn. At full stop lock of the steering, the radius of turn (and the circular trajectory of both tires) will be smaller as the chassis lean angle increases: there is a greater effective steering angle. Lock the steering of a bicycle at a pronounced angle and push it while at different sustained lean angles for each completed circle and you will see that the smallest circle corresponds with the biggest lean angle. For the above formula and description of angles, please see "Steering angle" here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_dynamics
  10. 2 points
    Good observation on your part on the no-brakes format. Riders mostly over-brake when they start to add more/harder braking, and loose entry speed. Your overall goal if good, nothing wrong there; the other steps that go in that direction are smaller bites one would take to achieving that. As for braking and then realizing you could have gone faster...that's a not uncommon situation that occurs. Front brakes are the most powerful thing on the motorcycle, consider that a much smaller single rear brake can stop the engine. How about approaching the braking with the idea its a fine adjuster, capable of great force, but in the end, getting the entry speed correct for you (no too slow or too fast) is the key. There are a few pieces to this, we can work on them for sure. Best, Cobie
  11. 2 points
    Speed and Direction When riders say they would like to increase their confidence and control, what do they mean? Aside from pleasing the eye and entertaining discussions about them, all motorcycles have the same six controls–throttle, front brake, rear brake, clutch, gear lever and handle bars. Those six controls are how we change or maintain the speed and the direction of the bike. And, that is all they do and it is all you do while riding. Good control amounts to correctly choosing where and how much you change the speed and direction of the bike. Likewise, any and all decisions you make are based on changing or maintaining speed and direction. The bike is more than likely capable of performing well but in those moments of confidence shattering doubt, the rider isn’t. All dramatic situations on any motorcycle have been and always will be based on the rider's inability to correctly change or maintain its speed or direction. Aside from mechanical failures there are no other "situations". Someone could argue that point: “What about hitting an on or off ramp diesel spill; that doesn’t fit the maxim above?” I’d have to agree. However, the majority of motorcycle accidents these days are single vehicle, loss of control in a corner, crashes–not ones which no one can control. Speed and direction changes can be limited by the individual machine's controllability factors. Its handling of the road's surface and potential for stability are based on its suspension and frame configuration; its throttle response; gearing and braking characteristics and the tires' compatibility with all of the above plus electronic intervention that can alter your direct control over them such as ABS and traction control. Problems in controllability aren't bad. They are the road signs which have lead designers and engineers towards machine improvement from the beginning. For example, it hardly matters whether suspension was first conceived to achieve better traction on bumpy roads or to provide a smoother ride to eliminate the need for kidney belts. Both were situations that caused problems. Suspension did result in a whole new range of potentials for controlling speed and direction and a significantly more hospitable machine for rider comfort. Any rider's true skill level can only be measured by his ability to determine exactly WHERE to change or maintain speed and direction and execute the right AMOUNT of each. There are no other components to skill. While riding, the combinations of speed and direction inputs result in arriving somewhere: for example staying in your lane or using a late apex to handle a decreasing radius corner. Confidence is achieved when the rider is certain that the machine is going in the right direction and will arrive at a predictable location, at the right speed. You might need to be stopped or to swerve before hitting a car which pulled out, or it could be exiting the banking at Daytona wide open at the top of 6th gear doing 175 mph pointed down the straight––not at the wall. It makes no difference, both are determined by where and how much the rider changed or maintained their speed and direction. The ability of a rider to determine speed and direction changes relies solely on the amount of space they have to work with. This is the determining factor for where to change and how much to change them. Judgment could be defined as: fitting the right degree of speed and/or direction change into the amount of available space in order to arrive or not arrive (like missing a pot hole) somewhere. This leads us into the area of the rider’s visual aptitude. On a practical level, always having a destination plotted out in front is wise. The five faults that stand in your way are target fixating on something, compulsive over-scanning, tunneled vision, looking too close or too far ahead. Your visual skill is based on how many of those five are absent– anytime and anywhere you ride. Becoming aware of the five and gaining control over them WILL lead to improvement.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    I did a 2 up ride with a pro racer when I was still a brand-new track rider. It scared the hell out of me! I got on, he told me to put one hand on his chest and the other on the tank (no handholds on the tank back then) and took off. He was moving all over the place, hanging off for the corners, and accelerating and braking hard - I was sure I would fall off. After about 3/4 of a lap I started to think I'd be OK - then as we started the 2nd lap he yelled over his shoulder, "Ok, I'm going to go faster this lap!" and I yelled "No!" but he obviously didn't hear me because he DID go faster. What did I learn from it? Well, I got a new perspective on how fast one COULD (potentially) enter a corner, and how close a pro rider really does get to the inside edge of the track, and how HARD you can brake. I was, at the time, such a new rider that it all seemed somewhat unreal; I probably would have gotten more out of it if I had done it later when I had more experience. But, I'll be honest, I have no desire to do it again. I haven't done much riding (or fast paced driving in a car) as a passenger - I would much rather be driving! Going at race pace with someone else in control is definitely a scary experience, I am always amazed and impressed by those people that ride in rally cars as the navigator.
  14. 2 points
    While riding on the mountains you should not be pushing your tires to the limit; that just means excess of danger with little reward or improvement of skills. Please, note that I mention the limit of physical pavement-rubber traction and not lean angle of the chassis. Lean angle is a natural consequence of the centripetal forces of turning and it mainly depends on the square of the speed of the bike and on the inverse of the radius of the turn: meaning in simpler terms that double the entry speed (but same radius) puts four times more lateral stress on the contact patches of the tires and that half the radius of turn (but same speed) puts double stress on those patches. The manufacturer of your sport bike tries to provide a lean clearance that matches the maximum traction capability of your tires in good pavement conditions. The resulting angle of lean must be there to compensate for those cornering lateral forces in such a way that the bike keeps its lateral balance (not crashing over towards the outside of the turn). What is happening at the same time? Both tires "feel" an increased weight of your body and the bike, as much as double (2g) around 60-degree lean; hence their sections become less pliable and have to work harder to keep grip. The suspension is now compressed by the added weight and its work to follow the surface and keep the rubber in contact with it is more difficult because the direction of the strokes is inclined while the irregularities of the track keep pushing it vertically. All the above works as described if, and only if, you have the luxury of clean dry pavement. Otherwise, your tires will have less capacity to resist the action of those lateral forces (assuming good conditions of tires, inflation and suspension, as well as good riding techniques and per-tire-weight distribution). How much less traction will you have? That is something impossible to predict on public roads, where you could suddenly find spills of oil, Diesel, anti-freezing coolant, or sand or street markings or steel manholes or animal carcasses. If you ride on the edge of available traction, you will not have available traction to use in the event of an emergency or evasive maneuver, like braking or swerving. You always choose entry speed to negotiate certain radius of a fixed corner, lean angle follows that decision adjusting itself to keep balance, and both tires and suspensions are loaded with extra forces, which should never grow beyond the limits of traction for the specific conditions of the road. Please, read some more about this: https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/riding-tips-traction-science-tires-keith-code-break https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/blogs/tread-envy-code-break https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/blogs/dragging-your-knees-code-break https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/leaning-bike-code-break http://forums.superbikeschool.com/topic/3331-have-you-ever-slid-the-front-without/
  15. 2 points
    Spaghetti has given good info above, and I will add that a good way to get experience with using more lean is to get a small bike (50cc, or 150cc, for example) that you can take to a go-kart track. Easier to get your knee down, safer environment, and you can lean way over at much lower speeds to get "used to what it feels like" and develop a sense of traction and feeling the feedback from the tires.
  16. 2 points
    I think this topic is simple enough to where someone can just go out and try it. In my experience I have seen every combination of rider with regard to preference on bar pressure but it does make sense that using both a push and a pull will give the most control.
  17. 2 points
    Hello, I read positive content about California Bike School. Definitely a must do. I have been riding on and off since college when motorcycle endorsement never existed. I started very young with the Big-Wheel (my 3 wheeler as a toddler). Upgraded to the 2014 Triumph 675 Daytona. Of course I now have an endorsement. My most challenging and fun ride has been in Thailand on the Honda 600 CBR, a whopping 762 turns from Chiang Mai to Pai. Like anyone who seeks safety and proficiency as I practice in the cockpit for my airline, it begins and ends with training. The training does not stop. And that being said, I am certain I am carrying some good habits or techniques, but likely I have more bad ones than good ones. It’s my intention to be better through training and hope to get the support and advice through California Superbike School and the forum group who appears to have this common goal. I hope to also make friends along the way who may consider joining my group on adventurous motorbike tours, and I participate with other groups as well.
  18. 2 points
    Introducing more trail braking will absolutely increase your front tire wear, and on a lightweight, relatively low horsepower bike like yours it is certainly possible to have the front tire wear out first (compared to the rear) just from this change in riding style/habits. It makes sense, of course; by trail braking you are considerably increasing the load on the front tire in the corners, and instead of the braking forces being applied primarily with the bike upright, you are now putting braking forces on the tire while leaned over. So now the front tire has to handle steering/cornering load AND braking load on the sides of the tires, and that is where the wear is showing in your photo above. Additionally, that change in style could affect when and how hard you are applying the throttle in the corner, and how much you are, or are not, leaned over when driving out of the corners, which would change the wear on the rear tire - potentially decreasing it if the trail braking is causing you to delay your roll-on. There is not a lot of wear on the sides of the rear tire in your photo which would imply that the gas is not being rolled on very much while leaned over. I have a 250cc bike and at one point I tried doing a lot of trail braking on the track; I was racing other riders that were doing it a lot (in nearly every corner), so I decided to try that and see how it worked for me. I was very surprised at the change in my tire wear; as you just experienced, my front tire wore out first, and much more quickly than expected, where in the past the rear would wear out first. After that little experiment I changed back to using trail braking in the corners where it was appropriate but NOT in the ones where it wasn't needed, and I went faster and was a lot less worried about crashing. Most of the other riders I was seeing on track were WAY overusing trail braking, braking too long and too much for most corners.
  19. 2 points
    I can see why that would be confusing, especially if there was not a exact explanation of specifically WHEN to roll on the throttle and WHY. What, exactly, was the stated purpose of that before turn roll-on you describe in that mantra you mentioned? "Maintenance throttle" is s term that is thrown around a lot but different people seem to have different ideas of what it is supposed to mean. I personally have heard at least three different definitions. Twist of the Wrist II gives a detailed and straightforward explanation of good throttle control, might want to have another look at that if you haven't in a while.
  20. 2 points
    MaxMcAllister in his suspension clinic (can be found on YouTube) provides the info that all geometry changes have a side effect for every intended effect. He said it’s about 3:1 ratio of effect to side effect and many people chase setup issues because of missing information of knowing which end of the motorcycle to change. The cliff notes: he provides that front end changes effect corner entry to mid turn and rear end height changes effect mid turn to corner exit; being mindful of the side effect issue. My concern with prescribing a geometry change at this point is introducing another variable into the equation when rider input, vision, timing and throttle control haven’t been sorted, nor do we know if static sag and chassis balance have been baselined. My $.03 is aligned with the OP and Hotfoot’s process to establish what the rider is doing and how the bike is responding.
  21. 2 points
    Basically, the same two processes happen simultaneously, only that in a shorter period of time than for a lazy turn. The front suspension and tire are loaded because deceleration, then that load caused by deceleration gradually yields as the load caused by the circular trajectory of quick-flick and tracing the curve rapidly increases (up to lower or similar value). You can find additional discussion about the quick-flick technique here: http://forums.superbikeschool.com/topic/4101-can-quick-turn-be-overdone/
  22. 2 points
    Most likely the coach at the track day was trying to help riders avoid the common error of braking (which compresses the forks) then releasing the brakes (which allows them to extend again) then turning the bike (which compresses them again). This bouncing up and down is, as you can imagine, counterproductive to accurate and predictable steering. In a simple corner the ideal scene is to be coming off the brakes as you are turning the bike, so the forces transfer from the deceleration forces to the cornering forces and keep the forks compressed instead of popping up and back down again. As far as telling you how exactly how much effect that is going to have, it is not realistic to think anyone can do that for you, there are far too many variables (suspension setup, rider and bike weight, braking style, steering input rate, surface traction, shape of turn, and so forth). You will have to experiment with it yourself, on your own bike and observe it. Almost certainly YES you can improve it with riding technique (have you been to school and had the Hook Turn material yet? Or the slow brake release classroom session?), unless your front suspension is extremely stiff in compression or has rebound damping set excessively low. Definitely you can sharpen up the steering on a bike by lowering the front a bit, but if taken too far this can compromise stability and you can get headshake, or twitchiness in the steering. Not sure the GSXR750 would need much changing on geometry, though, my impression of those were that they had nice handling. In the specific turns you describe (T1 and T3), are you trying to turn the bike while still on the gas? For sure that will make it harder to steer. Are you ABLE to steer it now and just noticing the amount of effort required, or are you running wider than you want in those turns?
  23. 2 points
    Ha, I think most of the local organizations would kick you out if you tried some of the passes I have seen on TV.
  24. 2 points
    Greetings to all, just wanted to take a quick moment to introduce myself. I have been riding for over 20 years and I figured it was finally time I got my but to school. I will be attending the 2 day school at VIR on August 8th and 9th and I could not be more excited. I have read Keith's books several times over the years and have always wanted to take it to the next level i.e. racetrack. Thanks to a friend at work who has attended multiple California Superbike Schools I finally took the plunge. I know it will be awesome. Best Regards, Catfish
  25. 2 points
    I can't tell if you are serious or joking with this post. Tensing your gut to steer the motorcycle? Turning your head to steer it? Pull the inside bar outwards? Regarding you comment about the No BS bike, the further you are from the center of mass of an object, the more leverage one has on it. The No BS bars are quite high, therefore have more leverage and still can't get the bike steered with any efficiency.
  26. 2 points
    A skill I learned as a young rider, is best explained by an anthropology text discussing the relationship between research and imagination. It spoke of “soft vision, hard focus”. Ones hard focus is on the road well ahead, this is maintained while also allowing oneself soft vision out in the periphery of ones vision. on your bike this means that one remains actively aware of what’s going on outside the focus of ones attention. Thus although my focus is often ( on rural roads) two corners ahead watching for oncoming vehicles, landslides and road debris. In my soft vision is placing me on the road, alert to surface and random animals walking out in my immediate viscinity. In terms of cornering it is my soft vision that marks my arrival at the turn in point already. I can tell by three or four inches whether I hit my mark. When navigating blind corners. The hard focus varies between 2000-300 metres ahead to the next corners, right down to 30 metres on those nasty closing radius blind corners. On those corners the eye follows the vanishing point alert to the need to radically change my chosen line. But.soft focus deals with all the little details of road placement. It is all very active and meditative, especially when I’m fully in the groove. Dodging unexpected sheep, and oncoming trucks that cut corners is handled almost entirely by the soft vision aspect. The hard focus in those instances looks to those avenues of escape that I spotted previously: hunting and tracking the gap. Hard focus turns my head. Soft vision looks everywhere else. another comparison is player of ping pong, or boxers neither focuses on the ball, or the fist, they look hard at the opposing player, and rely on soft vision to hit the ball or block the fist. hope this helps those who get lost vision wise.
  27. 2 points
    My coach at Laguna Seca noticed I was getting on the throttle too early in the second part of turn 2. I told him the same thing, I begin a smooth, even, continuous roll on after steering is complete. He advised me that because a throttle roll-on tends to make a bike hold its line, I should begin roll-on when steering is complete and the bike is pointed where I want it to go. The little bit of extra time off the throttle did help me get a better line and drive out of the corner.
  28. 2 points
    Speaking of timing... something else to take a look at is exactly WHEN you crack the throttle on. If a rider is running a little bit wide a little before the apex (not able to make it to the desired apex) what could that tell you about the rider's throttle timing? Next time you ride pay attention to when the throttle comes on - is the bike on its line (fully leaned and pointed in the direction you want it to go) before you start to roll on the gas?
  29. 2 points
    Yesterday I received in my email, a Keith Code article, Speed and Direction and I think the article struck a chord with regard to what I’m trying to solve. The article isn’t yet posted in the articles section, so it must be new. From it, this particular section seemed relevant and as I slept overnight I awoke with a different idea on how it applies to my current barrier ”Any rider's true skill level can only be measured by his ability to determine exactly WHERE to change or maintain speed and direction and execute the right AMOUNT of each. There are no other components to skill.“
  30. 2 points
    It could be that you are not following two fundamental rules of cornering: 1) Looking deep into the turn: You can only know that your trajectory is one foot off if you are looking close in front of your bike. 2) One steering for the whole turn: You may be adjusting your steering along the turn in order to achieve your goal trajectory. Think of the unintended consequences that you are creating if you are doing so, like diversion of attention, disorientation, over-stressing the front tire, etc. The way I visualize cornering trajectory: to me it is like shooting a ball into the basketball hood from a distance, you feel the cross-wind, you estimate the distance and the angle, you gut-calculate the whole flight of the ball and then you impart your best directed push hoping for the best. Sometimes you miss for little and sometimes you nail it. The hard mental, visual and calculation work in cornering happens prior the turn-in point, which is equivalent to the moment of actually pushing the ball. Let the bike "fly" describing that natural arc, free of unnecessary minute steering inputs and lean angle adjustments. Missing an apex for 12 inches may add a few feet to the corner's total trajectory, which is not a big difference for a bike that moves 88 feet per second (60 mph). Distracting your attention from proper throttle control and from reference points and from spatial location may slow your bike much more.
  31. 2 points
    I have never been to the California Superbike School but I have read and watched Twist Of The Wrist 2 so many times it is engrained in my brain. Keith Code's instruction on the 2 Step Vision Technique is by far what has improved my riding the most. Everything has slowed down for me in my mind resulting in the bike going faster. I live in Banff National Park (Canada) and there is a one way mountain road which is very track like. I have ridden this hundreds of times not worrying about oncoming traffic. I use this road to work on body position, trail braking, flick rates, throttle control and of course VISION. Yesterday I ran off the road at a good speed. I do wear all the gear including an Air Bag vest which worked very well. Just like a Moto GP rider I was more mad at myself than hurt and was worried about my bikes condition. I have been going over the incident in my head all night and all day today trying to figure out what I did wrong. I now know what it was. On this particular corner I did not 2 step properly (look ahead into the turn early enough) and all my survival reactions took over. I panicked because of my speed and hit the brakes bringing the bike up. I then target fixated on the side of the road and I froze on the bars. Nothing could help me now as I flipped the bike in the ditch. This could make someone not want to ride for a while but when you can identify why things went wrong it makes it much better. I owe this confidence to Keith Code and his teachings. It is important to note that even after doing something hundreds if not thousands of times we can still fall victim to our survival reactions. They can creep in any time but as long as you know what the causes are you can deal with them and learn. I must confess that I really don't feel like riding right now at all but hope that changes soon. Thanks Keith and to the female truck driver who helped me pick my bike up. Don Dagg
  32. 2 points
    Bottom line up front: the bike is extraordinary, awesome, phenomenal. Why: It is build bottom up as a track-specific bike. Different from a World Superbike that started out as a street bike, this was built as a track bike from the bottom up. Somehow it was incredibly user-friendly. Any intermediate level and up rider will love it. Handling: Zero changes on the suspension, the bike would not only hold a line, it went anywhere you wanted it to go. Very easy to set it on a line. Rough pavement (at Willow Springs) was no problem. At our race school I was able to make passes over a bumpy outside section where other riders would avoid. Power: Super linear. Never really hit hard suddenly. The mapping it came with is very manageable and a perfect balance of outright power and user-friendly delivery. 3rd and 4th gear power wheelies are easy and very progressive--not sudden. It definitely is far more powerful than a stock S1000RR. Gearbox: This was something that surprised me. Super-smooth and positive shifts. The stock gearbox is just fine but this one was even better with a very positive feel and great travel. Electronics: The traction control is audible; you can hear it coming in with a fluttering sound which is very helpful to get the immediate feedback on what the bike is doing on that. The dash is a race dash with a very simple interface and easy to control and change settings. Launch control: just like the GP bikes! So cool. Used it today at our Race School. Took off like a scalded cat. Finish: Every thing is so tidy under the seat where the battery and datalogger are. Nothing missing, nothing extra. Most bolts are drilled titanium. Wiring harness is custom with nothing xtra, but there are jacks for additional sensors like brake pressure and suspension travel. Brakes: Zero fade. Excellent feel. Some travel but not too much, very linear. Weight: Holy sheet. It's 6lbs lighter than a 300 Ninja when it's fully wet. Wow so easy to transition. I have video of two women lifting the bike completely off the ground. HP4R Price: $78,000. Engine replacement at 3,100 miles. Yoshimura superbike: $300,000. Engine rebuild at 700 miles. Graves Superbike: +/- $150,000 estimated. Engine rebuild at 1,200 +/-. BMW World Superbike: $120,000. Engine rebuild/replacement at 1,000 +/- Privateer MotoAmerica Yamaha Superbike: $60,000. Engine rebuild/replacement at 1,000 +/- and lots of bugs to fix and iron out, lower spec brakes and components. Any true superbike price is very hard to nail down because the development is the real cost. The parts are reflected above, but double, triple, quadruple is spent in development and testing at the track. Just one weekend testing is serious dollars. What you get with the HP4R is significantly more that you could ever get if you started with a stock S1000RR and tried to build a superbike from there. It's really a totally dialed in and balanced package. I had the owner of a local performance shop ride the bike from Motorsports Exotica, who said after getting off the bike: "I've ridden bikes with twice the money into them that don't even come close to this bike."
  33. 2 points
    Good morning. A few co-workers and I are signed up for the May 26th CSS at Barber and this will be our first time going to this school. We will be using school gear and bikes as well. My question is to all of the veterans of the school out there. Is there anything that you wish you knew or knew to bring before you got there? If we have go pro's will there be mounts on the school bikes or helmets or are we allowed to even mount them? Coolers with drinks or will there be stuff there? How much spendy cash to bring (will there be shirts, ect. for sale)? You get the idea, anything useful that you can give to guys who will be attending for the first time. Thanks for your time. Jeff
  34. 2 points
    Realize that it is a SCHOOL, not a sales-pitch! The instructors are incredibly knowledgeable and when they are discussing technique, form, or common mistakes, it is not to sell you on their ideas or ways of riding. They are teaching you a new technique. You try it out, and if you do not like it, let the instructors know when you have your post ride meeting with them. Let them know what was uncomfortable. Chances are, they will spot it before you do and tell you exactly what to change or address. For me personally, my first school I went to, I loved it. I was so excited and ready and scared. I went in with an open mind and took it all in. There may be some people in your class that "argue" with the ideas or challenge the instructors based on their personal experiences. It can be frustrating because the instructors are there to teach, not to sell. They are offering a new perspective, new techniques, they are not trying to change you. They are not telling you this is the ONLY way to ride a bike. However, they have done their research, they show you the research, and they have proven techniques. It is up to you whether you leave the school and take the lessons with you! Go in with an absolutely open mind. If you go in with this approach, I guarantee you will enjoy it so much more and your riding will drastically improve!!!! Also, if and when a coach pulls you over on the track, do not take it personally. They are not mad at you, they are there to keep you and other riders safe. If they notice something dangerous, they will bring it up. Lastly, do not worry if you are slower than others in your class. You learn best when you ride at 75% of your ability. And sometimes with even less speed you can focus on your riding and the technique at hand. In summation... 1) Go in with an open mind. 2) Don't take it personally if you are "having a talkin' to" by one of the coaches. 3) Ride at a pace you are comfortable with, do not worry about the ability of others. Focus on you!
  35. 2 points
    Hey, this picture looks much better, hear head, neck and shoulders look more turned into the (imaginary) corner and more relaxed, your knee is more open to the right so your elbow looks less crowded, and the angle of your wrist looks more comfortable as well. Does it feel better? "Rotating around the tank" (not a desirable situation) is when you are sitting TOO close to the gas tank, so that when you try to shift your hips to the side to hang off, your upper thigh bumps into the tank and tends to force your hips to turn the WRONG way, so that instead of opening your hips into the corner, you end up twisting them away from the direction of the turn, which tends to pull your outside knee away from tank and mess up your lock-on. When you see riders with their butt hanging WAY off but their upper body crossed back over the tank and their head ending up in the middle or even the wrong side (and/or holding themselves up with a stiff inside arm) that is often the cause. The easiest way to understand it is to try it - scoot ALL the way forward so you are up against the tank. Then try scooting your hips to the side and see how the tank restricts your movement or forces you to twist the wrong way. Then try moving back a bit in the seat (typically about a fist size space between tank and crotch is a good starting point, might need to go back more if your legs are long) and try it again and see how much easier it is to move your hips over, and to rotate your hips the INTO the turn instead of the opposite. Let me know if that makes sense.
  36. 2 points
    It's a little hard to tell just seeing it from the back side so take this with a grain of salt, but it looks to me like you are hanging your butt/hips off just a little bit too far on the right versus the left. On the left side you look comfortable and secure, and you are rotating your hips a bit to the left (into the turn) which sets you up nicely to get your upper body and head low and off to the left. Comparatively, on the right side, it looks to me like you scoot your butt over farther, and can't rotate your hips as much into the corner, which seems to compromise the lock in of your outside knee and make it more awkward to get your upper body down and to the right. Some things to check: 1) Are you too close to the tank to be able to rotate your hips towards the inside of the corner? Try scooting back just a little and see if it makes it easier. 2) Can you lock in your outside (left) knee as solidly on right turns as you can your outside (right) knee of left hand turns? If not, try not moving your hips quite so far to the rights on your right turns, rotate your hips a little more to the inside (right hip more toward the rear of the bike), and see if that pushes your left knee more solidly into a lock position on the tank. 3) Have you attended a school and done the "hip flick" exercise from Level 3? Making a smooth, consistent movement of the hips without bouncing on the pegs or adding any bar input is a benefit of that drill. I know you said you are not holding onto the bars... but that would be one of the most common reasons for the bike feeling like it "wants to abruptly tip over", either during the transition or once hanging off - a really small amount of input can make a really big difference. One obvious thing that is different on rights versus lefts is that you have the throttle control in your right hand. Any chance that when you roll on the throttle you are putting some forward (steering) pressure on that right bar, causing the bike to lean over more (or faster) than you expect?
  37. 2 points
    Last year for my birthday, I redid L1 and the following day L2. I then turned around 2 weeks later and did L3, followed by L4. This year, again for my birthday on the same track I did L4 again. I rode the BMW S1000RR and had a blast! I didn't take lap times, but I could easily perceive my pace was quicker, smoother and safer since the last time I was at the circuit. I took a couple wins with me in that I realized at the consulting table with my peers that I went through the day and not once had a pucker moment. I had control over myself and the bike, even during the time when I blew my TP for T7. My other win was that I completed the day without the nagging of back pain that has come up over the years. I was able to use many of the L3 skills that I picked up and I also realized some areas where I can expand my new capabilities into and remove some old limitations. I can also say that I've had the pleasure of winding the S1000RR to WOT on the front and back straights. Maybe in the soon future, I'll be able to hold it there!
  38. 2 points
    The school will have pretty much everything you need available - sunscreen, earplugs, water, snacks, etc. However, at Barber some things you could end up wanting to have: a folding chair, for break times - there is seating in the classroom, but you might want to have a chair you can put somewhere in the shade for times between class and riding. A comfortable, cool layer to wear under your leathers, either an undersuit made for the purpose or something like UnderArmour pants and shirt. An underlayer makes it a LOT easier to get in and out of leathers, plus being cooler and more comfortable underneath. A regular cotton tshirt can get bunched up or wet under leathers and won't keep you as cool as UnderArmour or an undersuit. The school does have undersuits for sale, in limited size/quantity, you may want to call ahead to see if they can reserve one for you in your size and find out the price. Drinks of your own if you have a preference - keeping hydrated is important, it can get hot at Barber. The school will have water and Skratch (an electrolyte drink) available. If you want to run a Go Pro, mention it as you register in the morning to find out if it will be allowed and to leave time to arrange for mounting the camera. As far as money goes - there are plenty of things to buy, T shirts, caps, track decals, not to mention bike parts and Stomp grip, so how much to bring is up to you. Credit card is fine for purchases and you will need a credit card for your equipment deposit anyway, so you may just want to bring that instead of a bunch of cash. Also Barber museum is nearby, and a giant Bass Pro shop, so there are lots of places you can spend money if you're so inclined. Consider making time the day before or after your school to visit the Barber Museum, it is AMAZING.
  39. 2 points
    Nice post, Lnewqban. Jaybird, what is it that you are trying to fix or figure out? We know from riding our no BS bike at the school that you can get a bike to drift to one side by hanging weight off to one side - as Lnewqban addresses quite well above. But we also know that it is slow and imprecise, and anyone who has ridden the no BS bike recognizes immediately that they are not in control of the motorcycle when their hands are on the fixed bars. Given a slow enough speed and enough time and space to accomplish it, you can get the bike to turn, but it is hardly effective enough to get one around a racetrack or avoid an obstacle. You can see a clear demonstration of this in the Twist II DVD, you can see the effects of weight shift, how the the bike reacts and how the bars react. I'm not quite clear whether you are trying to address hanging weight off to the inside, or talking about weighting one peg without moving the Center of Mass, the effects are different. More importantly, what challenge are you facing in your riding that has you asking about this? (Or is it all just an academic dicussion ? )
  40. 1 point
    I agree with this 100%. While it is sort of an interesting theoretical discussion, it would seem exceedingly difficult to apply in practice.
  41. 1 point
    Interesting! The third video may also show why quick steering is so beneficial since it allows the choice of a more efficient line. It also explained how one rider could corner at a given speed around a corner, fully decked out, while another can go faster and barely graze a peg feeler; different lines around the corner that require different amounts of lean for the same speed. Thanks for clarifying that. BTW, you may want to check your tags as I get a lot of animal video suggestions when watching yours, but nothing relevant.
  42. 1 point
    In October of 2017, the year I posted this, I had a race ending accident at The Barber Vintage Festival. Race practice might have been an ominous sign for things to come when I nearly crashed on a team Triumph Thruxton going about 100 mph. I had been putting in some good lap times and needed about a 1/2 a second more to put in the top three. I was approaching turn 9 and 10 knowing I would need to get the bike turned quickly to carry the speed and to keep the bike off the rumble strips on the outside. I was finishing my steering input when the outside clip on snapped against the gas tank. I had no way to control the bike as I headed for the gravel on the outside of the track. I didn't have much time to think about it but the option of bailing didn't seem like a wise move at the time. I went through grass, pavement, gravel and then grass again. I had slowed to about 60 when I noticed the reflection of blue sky in the grass ahead. Any of you that have ridden or raced at Barber know how George likes to keep his landscaping nice and green. There was reflection of the sky in the grass ahead about three inches of water. I hit it and it was like an explosion. People who saw my antics wished the ride had been recorded. I survived it keeping the bike upright and getting it back to the pits. Lesson: when you are riding on someone else's machine double and triple check the levers, clip on's, rear sets etc etc etc. The next day was my Sounds Of Thunder 2 race with 70 riders lined up on the grid. I was racing on my modified SV650. I was on the 9th row. My strategy for the race was to get a good start and try to hang on the leading pack. I wanted to get into the 1:37's which for me on a SV650 was a respectable lap. My previous fastest was a 1:39 in practice. I got a great jump and was headed down into turn one when I saw a blur coming in from my left side taking me out. I remember being launched over the left clip on then nothing but the most extreme pain I have ever felt in my life lasting for no more than a millisecond. I remember holding someone's hand and hearing sirens but not able to make out any faces. I remember telling them not to cut my leathers. I have two close racing buddies, one an orthopedic surgeon and the other a neonatal surgeon. They were both on the track when this happened. One of them, the neonatal surgeon, knew that he would have to keep me close to try and better my lap times so he saw it all. He thought I was dead. He went against race protocol resting his bike against the Armco barrier and ran to me. He said he pulled up my visor to see if I was breathing.The rider who caused the initial accident lost his front coming into turn one ejecting me. The rider who did the damage had no place to go. He basically did a stoppie on my chest then releasing the brake lever rolling off me to have the rear wheel land on my chest. I had what they call a flailed chest with 10 broken ribs, a broken sternum and a punctured lung. I had to wait three days for surgery to install titanium plating to hold my ribs together. I had some issues with pneumonia after the surgery spending 12 days in intensive care. My biggest fear going through this was that I would be an invalid and before the advent of the titanium plating, I would have been. I would have much rather died doing something I love than be a burden. The good news is a never gave up. I am almost good about 85% lung capacity and missing a muscle or two. I'm working out at a local gym and riding a Peloton at home. I also have a mountain bike that I take for long rides communing with nature. I have ended my racing career or should I say my wife has ended it :) I loved racing but not enough to destroy a marriage. For me there were two choices, life or death no in between. I am physically fit enough to ride competitively and if I could talk my wife into it, my goal would be the same, to better my craft every lap, to be the best that I could be. There's nothing like the feeling of beating your previous best lap time and there's nothing like being told "man, you can ride." I am one of those guys now, relegated to telling stories and helping with bike stands and tire warmers as others ride out to the track. Thank you, Cobie and all the rest of those at CSS that coached me a long the way. Great memories.
  43. 1 point
    Hi Cobie, You read my mind! Please, yes - section on riding gear, boots/leathers, etc would be good. How about a section on track riding for novices wanting to get into track riding - recommended bikes, pitfalls, set-up? New to forums and do find it awkward searching here, although the information is top quality when I find it. Cheers, Victor
  44. 1 point
    https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/opinion/motogp/how-i-ride-andrea-dovizioso
  45. 1 point
    Do not let the snow keep you away from our sport, lads and lasses! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJessYxu8CE
  46. 1 point
    Generally speaking you would want to apex it where it is the most off-camber.
  47. 1 point
    That filled in information that was missing for me when trying to understand why I had so much difficulty adapting to the early braking-before-turning way of riding after always trail-braking more or less to the apex. In the end, I wound up with a compromise just the way you described it above, but thought it was just me not being able to properly adapt to the "proper way" of turning in. Now I feel much better - thanks ☺️
  48. 1 point
    What a coincidence! This popped into my mind as well just this past week. And I was ruminating on it as well... Roll and Yaw are two distinct types of motion on the motorcycle. Most people think of roll (lean angle) when we think of cornering. But, what we are really looking for is yaw- getting the motorcycle to go around a turn. Because of the way our physical universe exists, the most efficient (perhaps only) way to achieve this yaw results in roll. Do you lean to turn or do you turn to lean. LOL. Anyway, I found this interesting technical, analytical real world article measuring this yaw and roll and various rider inputs here. http://bicycle.tudelft.nl/schwab/Bicycle/evertse2010riderMinApp.pdf I had to read it a couple times and only understand part of it, but it clearly shows the countersteering inputs applied in getting the motorcycle into a turn, the yaw rates and direction, the roll rates and direction, the steering torque and direction and the actual steering direction. It goes into gyroscopic moment (which might be what your original question was referring too) and how that initial countersteering input can itself contribute to the roll but minimally. Fascinating stuff.
  49. 1 point
    Just so we are clear, I'm talking about higher rpm while already leaned over, which is not the same thing as having some throttle on while steering the bike. The bike feels more stable in the turn at higher rpm because the lean angle is set and it doesn't want to change because of the increased gyroscopic effect. For me on the S1000rr it can feel more stable at a higher rpm (lower gear) in a slow tight turn like the last few turns at Streets of Willow or Turn 9 at ACS, less reactive to rider movement or rough throttle inputs because the lean angle doesn't change as easily, and the more immediate throttle response when picking up the gas helps me to get better throttle control. Feeling a desire or need to have some throttle on when ENTERING a turn tells you something about your entry speed, do you remember what?
  50. 1 point
    The farther you get away for an object's center of mass, the more leverage you have. So lower bars would have less leverage. Also have a look at Newton's third law of motion and then decide what you mean by "load" and possibly rephrase.
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