fossilfuel

OXYCODONE is good! OXYCODONE is good! OXYCODONE is good!

Not an end to racing my friend. And thanks for the nice thoughts from you guys. It was all my fault. I changed the type of brakes, rotors and pads because of brake failure at Road A in June. I had just finished racing at Barber in September and pulled in some respectable places in Formula 1 and Senior Superbike with these brakes. Road A has a fast on camber right hander that almost immediately goes into a slow right hander for the back straight. I was doing about 100 into the corner and tried to get just a little more out of the throttle before I applied brake for the tight right hander. I had about 75 percent to play with on the brakes but I don't think I had enough weight transfered to the front when I squeezed a little to much brake and down I went, low side. I was driven into the pavement. I knew I broke something the minute I hit. I don't feel good right now but never once thought about not riding anymore. I did think about racing mini's! LOL! But since this is a riding forum from a purely technical stand point, I was not balanced or smooth at this particular instance. I had been behind a slower rider and tried to get to much back at once. My mind set was not right. I should have been thinking SMOOOOOOTH and I wasn't. That's why I don't race the Ducati Bullet! I will have the CBR1000RR ready for next season. I made a deal with my wife. I promised that I wouldn't break anything next year. I think we are going to stick with the Bridgestone National Endurance Series next year. If my friends will let me ride on the team! I think I am healing? It is hard to tell with all the stuff going on when I move. My wife says I am very lucky. Another couple of inches and I could have been sucking out of a chest tube. A note about the brakes: I went from stock brakes, stock pads, stock master cylinder to Galfer Wave Rotors(the best they make), Vesrah pads and Brembo master cylinder. I had much better equipment than I was used to and so the margin for error was much less. Maybe to much change to quickly? I do not blame the brakes and the feel on the back straight from 170 to 70 was awesome. The rider was the weak link here.

Sorry wrong column " Student Success Stories " My bad.

Hi All, Went to the WERA Grand National Finals a couple of weeks ago and crashed. I have a broken collarbone and four broken ribs, five if you count the one I broke in two places. Didn't go to the hospital as I was lucky to have an orthopedic surgeon friend with me at the track. In lew of flowers please send cash and pharmaceuticals!

Have a nice winter my friend!

Hi Bobby, THe part you see that is bent is part of the cast aluminum that the fork tube is recessed in? The part that holds your brake caliper and fender? you are saying that the aluminum piece is bent not the fork tube itself. if there is no damage to the tube, no leaks coming from around the seal, the movement from bottom to top of stroke is not impaired. Take a rubber mallet and beat it back into place. Or, pull the forks and drain the oil as you should periodically and examine your forks. Sometimes damage can occur to other parts of the bike during as well so it might be a good idea to examine your triple clamp and steering head. check for to much play around the bearings to make sure that is ok...shouldn't be to big of a deal.

Greg, Great to hear about the Endurance race. I wish I had known you were there. I had friends who raced so I was at pit lane for a while. I would have gladly ridden a few laps to keep you in the race. I want to get into that next year. I ran in the Senior Superbike Novice finishing 2nd and had the 5th best lap times of the Expert and Novice field and ran in the National Formula 1 race finishing 5th. Let me know if you are going to be at Road Atlanta for the WERA GNF and I will look you up.

Why do I suddenly have a compelling need to eat at Outback Steak House?

If you are going to get a CBR600RR get the 20008. A fantastic bike, it is the preferred bike in World Supersport and BSB Supersport. You can get a good deal on an '08 and the 09 and 2010 are the same bike. I love the ride. I had to make a decision on either a CBR600RR or a CBR1000RR....twenty pounds difference and 45 more horsepower..

Bobby, You have the benefit of some really good coaches helping you out on this forum. I hope you don't mind my two cents worth. I am not trying to coach but to give you some of my insight and my riding experience. Some of this can be good and some ###### from the back of bull but I throw it out there anyway. One thing you might try next time is to build some heat in the front tire on your first lap. I know tire warmers are great but if it is cool you will lose that heat fast just getting on track. Try waiting until the last minute to take your warmers off. You don't have to be the first in line. Let everyone else wait and you get out after they have started on to the track. I like to use the first lap to get the tires nice and toasty. Remember that the front tire is sticking out in the wind and loses more heat than the rear. Taking it easy on the first lap is important but even though I might not be going full out, I try to brake a little later so I can brake harder to build up the heat in the front. I took CSS at Laguna Seca last year. The first day it never got over 49F and the wind was blowing 50mph. We were on Dunlop Qualifiers and had no issues and no tire warmers... Let us know when you start bringing those times down...You can do it!

"The second time I did back to back days I ate it up! I was ready and on the second day I didn't have to reacclimate to being on a track, I didn't have to reacclimate to being on that particular track nor the bike or anything beyond the new drills so I was able to integrate the two days with my previous training in a big big way." Kevin I agree with Kevin. I did level two and three back to back and I would have to say it worked for me. The level three class just put everything together and made a huge impact on my riding.

Hi Bobby, What's going on in that head of yours? Your mind is messing with you! What is it that you are worried about? You don't have enough money to fix the bike if you low side? You have been to CSS, right? You have been on the forum and read many posts about different issues and had the benefit of coaches like Bullet, Adam06, Cobie and members like Kevin. Look over your bike. Is the bike 100%? The tires are good. The chain is fine. The sag is set. The brakes are working properly. So we know that the bike is ready to take you where you want to go. The only thing left is you. Why can't you approach in the way we did your bike. What is it that CSS has taught you that is fundamentally wrong? Absolutely nothing. How much faster do you think Keith Code could ride your favorite circuit than you using your bike? It is very easy to loose focus on the fundamentals that can carry you through the turn. revisit the precepts, they are your friends. Before I go to a track for a track day or a race I visualize the track using the fundamentals I have been taught. I try to include all the small details like reference points, the way the sun light hits the track(I guess you might need to use something else), what the curbing looks like, how the braking feels, what the quick turn looks and feels like, and even the sounds of the engine and the sliding of the rear end on exit. I can even see people standing on pit wall and corner workers. Now you can't visualise putting through the corners all uptight and afraid to put your knee down. You need to visualise that puck sliding on the pavement with your arms loose and looking through the corner The next step might be to pick the turn on the track that is the easiest and most comfortable for you to negotiate. Before you try anything else, get that turn down. I believe as soon as you are confident that the bike is planted in that corner......your back! Good luck my friend.

I am 55 and I race. My work out routine at the gym is five days a week. The only upper body work at the gym is on the elliptical machine where I do cross training for 45 minutes at the highest level I can stand and alternate my heart rate between 120 and 150 bpm. I use my arms to push pull on the highest resistance range and do this every other day. on alternating days I do twenty minutes on an elliptical and then work my legs...quads, abductors, glutes and hamstrings. I do three different stomach exercises every work out. I think that my arms and chest should be able to be strong enough to make the steering inputs but it is your stomach and legs that need to be able to hold you on the bike. Energy is waisted going to large upper body muscle groups so I try to maintain lean muscle mass in the chest and arms. Racing is not just the energy you burn on the track but the energy you burn before the race so eating the right foods before and during your track or race day is important. I eat fruit and cereal the morning of a race and then try to eat small amounts up until the race with plenty of water. The excitement and anticipation before a race can zap you of valuable energy reserves so having your bike prepared before hand is important....then you can sit back and try to conserve your energy for when you will need it the most.

In spite of the best of my warnings against the Italian ladies: congrats on your new bike, may your new mistress serve you well. Kai I know, I know. What can I say, I'm easily swayed. Allow me to explain myself though, (I realise you're always onto a looser when you have to justify, but hey ho), and tell you I've not bought a standard one, it's got all the modifications I'd want as part of the deal, it's got the obligatory Termi's, though you only get Cans as standard, the 70MM system is extra (and it has it), race pattern rearsets, quickshifter, race and road fairings, upgraded clutch and master cylinders with flip up levers, quick action throttle, double bubble, Race seat and many others. 1500 miles, all for just a little over the price of a new 1198S, how could i say no...? Some might even call it a bargain... LOL (though I expect the relationship with the dealership begins here). My wifes initial reaction was, dont' ever drop it, ever, please. (oh yeah love, it'll never happen, honestly). Bullet Congratulations....My fellow Ducatista!

You can't go wrong whatever you decide Bullet. I think your first three are all great choices and you won't be disappointed whatever you get...We all know that it's the rider who twists the throttle that makes it sing.

All the best things get sent here for repair... I wish I could have delivered it myself! "All the best things get sent here for repair..." Maybe I should have my knee scoped there!

My Ducati 999R sits in the garage. It is by far the best piece of machinery I have ever owned. A thing of beauty designed for racing with innovation and thought that you will not find on most motorcycles. From the trellis frame to the Marchesini wheels, brembo brakes and Ohlins suspension this is a fine piece of gear. The tank and seat mount are one assembly which slides front to back to change weight distribution. One can loosen four bolts and swing the tank and seat up to about a 35 degree angle to service rear cylinder. A plug change takes all of ten minutes. The bike holds about 4.5 liters of oil and has a pre-filter, a primary filter and magnetic drain plug. You don't like the trail of the front end? You can change it. There are two settings. The Brembo brakes are phenominal! The Ducati has the bleeder screw built in to the fluid reservoir. A 4mm socket can bleed the air as the fluid stays in the reservoir and at the highest point in the system. The shift lever and brake lever are independent of the rear sets. The brake lever has about 8 settings as the shift lever comes with a concentric cam so you can adjust for toe position. The instrument panel is amazing. Oil temperature, water temparature, volts rpm etc. The sound of the twin surronds you thanks to the Termognini racing exhaust. I have had people at a track day move out of the line when I have come up behind them 165 rear wheel hp. I also get people coming by the garage wanting to here it. The dry clutch clack,clack,clack,clack! The bad news...a 2000 mile tune up and valve adjustment $1000.00. I buddy low sided it in the grass and the repair was $3000.00 The techtronic quick shifter was bent, no problem I just had to send it to NEW F'n ZEALAND for repair. I love this bike but the Fireblade is more comfortable on the track and I am not as paranoid about wadding it up...Oh by the way Bullet did I say the "Duc" is for sale? LOL

Great going! It was a blast wasn't it! You will get faster. I guarantee it.

ah, my cynical old friend. Ride always way more important. bling's not my thing, ride experience and excitement is paramount. B. I rate these bikes the following CBR BMW Ducati Technology 07 10 08 Reliability 10 08 08 Trackability 10 09 08 Aftermarket Parts 10 08 08 Cost 10 08 07 Maintenance 10 08 07 Beauty 07 08 10 Crash cost 10 08 06 Track Comfort 10 10 08

Is this bike to ride on the track or to put spot lights on in the garage?

Hay fossilfuel, do you write motivational speeches? That is one of the best things I have read! Bobby I guess all these Mel Gibson tapes have affected me?

Hi Luke, I read your post with great interest because in one way or another we are all trying to get to the next level. There is always another hurtle to get passed. My example takes place at Road Atlanta. The fastest track I have ever been on. I was riding in race practice when a friend came up after the session and said I needed to carry more speed into turn one. Wow! more speed I felt like I was flying through there. Turn one at Road A is a right hander that is on camber and goes up hill but it is probably a 100mph corner that compresses the suspension right at the apex and will put your chin in the tank. On the left side of the track was a red cone and about 25 meters passed that was a sign that read 100. My buddy told me I needed to stay on the gas until I got passed the red cone and before the 100 sign. I was using a new reference point. I came out of turn twelve and headed down the front straight pinned and tried to keep my hand on the throttle but had to let off. I just couldn't tell myself to do it. The second time I willed myself to do it and had to turn in much quicker but took some time off the lap. I was getting out of my comfort zone. The next test was the back straight, 6th gear pinned through a right hand kink at 170 mph. The first few times I rolled off. But what a dumb a.. I was. What is twenty miles an hour when you are going that fast any way, you know? But to be competitive I had to do it and I did. I used new reference points to stay on line. SR's are important to think about but...what about a plan to achieve your goals. Why does it seem like you are charging corners and the faster guys are not? Why are they not late on exit but you are? Maybe you are still using the same reference points and trying to stay with in your comfort zone that keeps you from letting go. You have to commit to getting out of your comfort zone, you have to brake later and harder, find more reference points, get on the gas earlier out of the corners, Use your vision to see into the corner look through the apex and trust your machine to take you places you have never been before. Don't get so caught up in riding that you aren't PAYING ATTENTION!

Gorecki is correct...What if you don't have the correct amount of nitrogen in the shock or not enough or any fork oil...Opening everything up and knowing what you have with fresh oil and seals is a great start... I race so I change my oil and replace the seals every season.

OK, first I need to correct myself: I have 7mm travel left on the front, not 25 (I confused the numbers from by roadbike, which seems to be heavily oversprung on the front. But that's a separate topic). Here's the hard data: Front: 12 clicks compression / 8 clicks rebound / 10 turns of preload. There are 20 clicks of compression and rebound, and 16 turns of preload. Rear: 10 clicks compression / 6 clicks rebound / 5 turns of preload. There are 22 clicks of compression and rebound, and 16 turns of preload. The reasoning for reducing the rebound damping was to allow the rear to extend quicker and thereby keeping a better contact with the road. Bullet's point is that it might be that the rear shock is topping out, in which case rebound has no effect at all. Fossil, what is the logic for increasing the rebound damping on the rear in this case? So far my plan says: 1) check sag, 2) reduce preload on the rear (-2), 3) increase the preload (+2) and/or compression damping in the front (I'm thinking preload as 3a, compression as 3b). Thanks, Kai Kai, I was thinking of what they call the "pogo" effect. This is when you do not have enough damping for the shock to do its job. The spring is compressed while you are riding but as you apply brakes to the front, the down force on the front and shift of weight snaps the back up. If you dampen the compression on the front another 2 clicks and slow the rate of the forks compressing while damping the rate of rebound or pogo in the rear to 10 clicks, the transfer of weight to the front might be reduced....just a thought. You said you reduced rebound another two clicks and nothing happened? You are way down on the amount of rebound damping which makes me believe you don't have enough... has the rear end felt a little bouncy or squirmy while riding over bumps or on the throttle on exit?

Hi Bullet, Yes, I had help to measure out and adjust the static sag last year, but didn't write down the details and frankly .... I can't remember the numbers :-| Are you thinking too little sag on the rear? Kai Its definitely possible mate, yeah. I found on my Aprilia that with too much pre-load in the rear, it caused a few problems, one of which was this. As it's so easy (relatively), to check, I'd start there, and make sure you've got some good sag numbers, then, if not that, check you've not got compression wound on to much (in the rear). Let us know, though others may well have other ideas. Bullet I think you should do two things if everything else is exceptable. First, do what Bullet says. I would increase rebound damping in the rear. you went with less from 8 to 6 clicks. Did you ever think that you might be raising the rear to fast? I would try going to 10 to 12 clicks on the rear to keep it from raising up to fast. Then I would increase compression damping in the front about 2 to 4 clicks to slow down the rate of travel under breaking. You never mentioned what your front fork settings were?