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dmj120

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About dmj120

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    Cornering Master

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    Family, sportbikes and drums

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  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    Level 1
  1. http://coderace.com/ is the CSS team. But I was talking about the new racer school that is specifically for the WSMC. It was the training, especially the audio CDs and DVD --as I listen to the cds continually-- that truely made a difference.
  2. Had to just go for it - finally. I must say, again, many thanks to Keith and team!! Did the Motoyard new racer school, which was pretty cool. Leaned some goods things from Jason Curtis; his miming trail braking and back to throttle was aweome and the vision of watching how his fingers transitioned from braking to roll-on to full throttle has stuck in my mind. Aside from too many damn crashes, a pretty cool day. Jason got us into both B and C groups for more track time. I have been fighting with a front sliding, vague feeling for sometime now. The suspension guy, Josh, suggested adding 10mm to rear preload.... and WOW!!! Shaved 6 seconds and felt planted without trying to go faster. There's two primary "thank yous." One is throttle control and the second is a phrase from the audio CDs "doesn't guarantee crashing, but is it more or less likely.." Throttle control: I remember hearing Keith say that you just have to force yourself to roll-on. Willow Springs (big track) was recently re-capped. The outside of T2 is a marblely mess of slick 'oh sh't' moments. It was REALLY difficult to hold maintenance throttle; my brain and hand were fighting each other something fierce. Trying different lines, I found myself about 5 feet from the edge. Feeling the bike slide and trying to NOT look were I don't wanna go -namely the dirt- and not rolling off was fun. The entire time my mind cycled from Keith's "you have to ask yourself," the effects of rolling off, the DVD's slide bike in the wet, maintenance throttle, slippery marbles, and about 30 "oh sh'ts". I looked down, saw 103 mph then noticed my roll-on reference point. I forced myself to roll it on and came out faster than I thought with the BIGGEST smile!!! Thank you. The other moment came after blowing T3, rolling off and on up to T4a (with a few expletives under the lid). I was looking at the edge, where a pretty big pot hole lies or the dirt. I chose the pot hole. I look down see 72mph grab the bars but a the last second heard "relax fool" hit the hole and had a nice out-of-seat tank slapper. Went straight to fense slowed, let a few pass then back onto the racing line. Didn't realize, even though I finished the day, of the damage. Bent the front rim, cracked the weld for the rear stand spool, all the rear fairing clips that connect each to other broke. Ended the day with the three mock starts. I started in P2. Looked around while getting the instructions and see nothing but white plates. Since I've never started a race I felt compelled to read up on it. I rev it up to about 8000 release the clutch and go. Thought I did good. Didn't wheelie or bog down, but kinda skipped the front tire, which I think is close to how it's supposed to be. Sometime around 30-40 feet pass the line I got devoured by a dozen riders I never saw all day. Two more of the same and then got my cert. An excellent day. Looking into race fairings, and thinking about doing the first new racer race in Aug; Sep by the latest. Thanks to the CSS crew and curriculum. Josh
  3. I think there's several at the socalmoto.org forum who are racing there. I've heard some good things, but have yet to make it out that way.
  4. I'm in SoCal and replaced mine with Distilled water and Water Wetter - temps range from low 30's to above 100. Runs like a champ. I know several people who run this in their bikes as well; never found a problem. Not sure what damage tap water could happen; for that, you'd have to wait for the chief.
  5. Similarly to my chain, I use simple green. Little bit of the green and a toothbrush does the trick.
  6. I've used simple green for years - gets it clean without any ill affects.
  7. As stated by Keith: "It's observed that we generally learn best at about 75% of our ability." So yes, if you can do 100 --for learning purposes-- you would be better served to do 75 concentrating less on speed and more technique. From what I've seen, I didn't think it'd be a problem for the coaches . I thought of this as I watched the coaches maintain the sames lines, turn points etc at multiple speeds - it was pretty interesting to watch lean angles and flick rates increase whilst other skills were relatively unchanged.
  8. First, let me say I had more fun and learned more (simply by observation) whilst corner working.... throttle roll-on, smoothness, set-it and forget-it, and so on -- something that should be on everyone's to-do list, at least once. Oh ya, having a track ALL to yourself is pretty sweet too That said, it was almost agonizing to NOT ask in person: If 'we' learn best at about 75%; at what percentage do coaches "coach?" It seems to me that if learning is best at about 75%, then to be able to instruct, observe, correct, etc. the percentage would in the 50-60% range (or close thereof).
  9. Only seen Andy on the youTube stuff, but he seems like a genuine dude. Get well soon!! First round will be on me...if we ever meet Looking forward to some positive updates.
  10. Hiya Dave. Some good thoughts so far. If I could add my 2 cents. Chicken stips are a mute point. I have em, and haven't drug a knee; but yet pass those who ride to edge and drag a knee whenever "possible." I used to worry about this sort of stuff - I'd be the one looking at his tires reveling at my 'achievement'. Now, however, I look at my tires to try to read the wear patterns to see what suspension changes I can try or where I might have been off throttle. Point being: If I'm around someone really concerned about chicken stips (good natured ribbing aside), I ignore them and/or toss out a little "listen squidly..."
  11. I'd definitely recommend the Twist2 DVD, and the audio CDs. I copied them into my cell and listen to them to-and-from work (about 2 hours daily) 2-3 times a week. Have yet to dive into the interactive CD. Josh
  12. Interesting. I've been wanting to through back the tank and dive into [part of] the engine - but not quite there yet. Never thought about valves or plugs; although it makes sense.
  13. If the cause was environmental, then perhaps not; however, if rider induced (like my low-side was), then there's a HIGH degree of probability that the class would have at least offered some help in preventing it. Really sucks, though; especially having to wait like wow! Glad you're ok to complain As Steve said, they might be able to work with you.
  14. Thanks for the input. I was missing the cam chain part - it's been well over 10 years since I've seen the inside of an engine, something that was only a hand-full of times to begin with. I'll have to look in the service manual; maybe I missed that it's supposed to have already been changed.
  15. Correct me me if I'm wrong. It's my understanding that vulcanization is process by which the individual 'bands' of rubber are fused together. The process includes heat (and inside counter-pressure) combined with a curative - most often sulfur. Vulcanization is also responsible for the tire's (or any rubber / polymer item's) tensile strength and pliability. I think the "extrusion" is squeezing 3 lenghts of rubber through a die forming one strip; which is then wrapped around the carcass prior to the molding process. Ok. Then why does the first part of the tread last longer then that closer to the wear marks? Generic example: (total depth of the sipe - broken into 4 parts) first quarter = 2k miles second quarter = 1k miles thrid quarter = 500 miless fourth quarter (at the wear mark) = 100 miles. If the entire "Tread" is one strip overlapped onto the construct.... shouldn't it wear evenly throughout the thickness [excluding multiTread "softnesses"]? If the center "harder strip" is the same material as the outer edge, I'm not understanding why the inner tread doesn't wear similarly.... unless the tire has more flex as it looses some of the tread layer, thereby increasing its heat level, and in-turn burning through more tread.
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