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Everything posted by faffi

  1. I have not heard it said like that before - this is how I've heard it stated repeatedly: It is easier to teach a fast rider to stop crashing, than a slow and safe rider to go fast.
  2. Development

    That would be nice
  3. Development

    To those who have ridden a lot of bikes over the years - if you took the best sport motorcycles from yesteryear and put them up against the current bikes of the same size but less sporty, fitted them with the same tires (where possible) and sent them around a race track, which would win? I'm asking because people have told me for quite some time that modern bikes, even budget bikes, are so much better than the stuff just a decade old. In my experience, my FZ07 has suspension no better than what many bikes could offer in the 80s, so I do not buy this. However, I could very well be wrong. So what if you teamed up something like these pairs, do you reckon the latest would beat the oldest every time? Or would it be the older sport bikes taking the honour? 1992 CBR900RR vs 2017 CB1000R 1993 GSX-R750 vs 2017 GSX750S 1994 ZX-9R vs 2018 Z900 1994 FZR600 vs 2017 FZ6R 1994 916 vs 2017 Multistrada 950
  4. Development

    Thanks, but not really. If you compare an old superbike to a new model, the older will be slower. It may be better at some details, but overall the modern bike will reign supreme. That's why I wonder how and old superbike would stack up against a current standard or sports tourer. Is the suspension better or worse on a 1992 CBR900RR than what you find on the CB1100RS of today, for instance? Or the new Z900. What about brakes? Handling? I'm curious because I personally believe 25 year old superbikes, as they were new, can still beat many current "normal" bikes when it comes to suspension and handling, and match them when it comes to the brakes. But I cannot be sure.
  5. We got some winter here and I took my Virago-come-scrambler out for a spin. Hard work! I have been riding a lot on winter roads on bicycles when growing up, as well as 3 winters on motorcycles before, but this - at about 530 lb - is by far the heaviest two-wheeled vehicle I have taken onto snow and ice. The tyres didn't impress, either, and combined with my limited skills when it comes to playing made things less than elegant. But at least I got to spin up some figure eights for the first time in my life, although they also proved the expected lack of talent. Still, I had fun, but during my commutes I stay away from playing since the front tucks every time the rear starts to spin up - I'd rather stay upright than topple over trying to look cool

    That is impossible to answer. If the large wheel meant 7000 rpm, the smaller wheel would give 8600 rpm. If the engine had a torque dip at 7k, it may be able to go faster with the smaller wheel at the same throttle opening. Same if the load his high, like climbing a steep hill, you would likely benefit from the extra rpm and resulting extra power to give a small increase in speed. Another thing to consider is mapping; 50% throttle will not give the same amount of fuel at high rpm as at lower rpm, meaning mapping could be better or worse if you increase rpm for any given speed. However, for most engines the extra energy required to rev higher due to more internal friction, you would not go as fast with the smaller tyre - if you have an instant fuel consumption read-out on your bike (or car) you can see how much more energy is required to go a certain speed in a lower vs a higher gear.

    Other than the slip between tyre and road, the engine is mechanically linked to the tarmac. By that it means that for any given speed, rpm is constant for a particular gear, regardless of throttle position. Let's say you need 5000 rpm to go 60 mph in 4th gear. Regardless of where the throttle is, be that full off or full on or anywhere in between, you will have exactly 5000 rpm at 60 mph in a straight line. Unless the tyre is spinning or the clutch is slipping. Now, if you lean over, the circumference of the tyre is reduced. This has a similar effect to lowering the gearing. But while lower gearing mean that the engine must turn more revolutions in order to get the wheel turned a certain amount of times, now the wheel must turn faster to maintain the speed, bringing the engine along with it. This could probably be explained much simpler, but as long as you remember that when the engine turns over X times it always makes the tyre turn Y times in gear Z. A smaller wheel must turn faster than a larger diameter wheel for any given speed, and so the engine must turn X+n to compensate.
  8. 31 year old TV spot about CSS at Laguna

    The original Ninja 600 sans fairing - thanks for sharing.
  9. Drag Racing- Why do they do this?

    They do it to lower the CoG, which again makes it less likely for the bike to wheelie.
  10. Limitations of CSS techniques?

    Thank you for calling my bike nice, although we both know it is rather ugly Your Nighthawk, however, is in a stunning condition A friend has one, and while I like the way it looks (not unlike the VT500FT Ascot I once owned), it doesn't do anything for me while riding. Seat is big and inviting, but so soft my bum quickly gets on fire. And the engine is rather lackluster in performance, and also manage to feel even tamer and slower than it is. Suspension lack damping, but is very good at flattening out frost heaves and as such worked very well for me. Albeit basic, the brakes also work remarkably well. When Cycle World tested one in 1991, they actually stopped the Nighthawk in a shorter distance than the period race reps.
  11. Limitations of CSS techniques?

    I took a beginner course in gravel riding earlier this fall. After some slow slalom stuff standing up we did maximum braking in some really deep and loose gravel. We learned to pull clutch, shut throttle, apply rear brake and lock wheel, apply and modulate front brake. In that order, but in quick succession. Having ridden quite a bit on snow and ice, I had little trouble with the test. Next was riding over a small mountain on gravel littered with stones and potholes. That also went well. After an hour with basic practice I joined the fast group, which wasn't all that fast. Got a tip from a guide at a coffee stop to stand up, keep most of the weight on the outside peg and push with the outside knee against the tank, let the front end wander and steer with the throttle. Something clicked and I went from being almost afraid of loose gravel to searching for it, enjoying having both wheels sliding about. My bike of choice was my Virago scrambler project in the making. In the ten years they have run the event, this was the first Virago they had seen. It was a superb conversation starter. I'm going back next year
  12. I have had my share of road crashes. Mostly due to riding too fast for the conditions. Monday two weeks ago, I had another, this time caused by a low sun in the face, a slightly poor choice of line followed by a rapid steering input to make the corner sharper in order to get a good exit line. When I went down, it was totally unexpected as the speed was not aggressive at all, doing about 50 mph. Upon inspection, I had made the steering input on top of an oil spill that also continued as a streak that followed my trajectory precisely. Although not happy about the crash, it was good to understand the why. My NOS AGV GP PRO sacrificed itself and kept my head safe, and my leathers protected my skin. After sliding along the asphalt, I flew over a small ditch and into a banking where I made a big impression, before being tossed back, helicopter style, onto the road. The helmet took 3 hits, two of them quite severe. And for once the bike took the brunt, not me. Had the bike been OK I could have ridden away, but this is the end of my son's old bike. I took a pillion ride home on my own bike instead, motored by the son who's bike got totaled. And I could go to work the next day. My new helmet is a Shark Spartan Carbon, because it fit me even better than the AGV (it's the second GP Pro I have cracked), is lighter and has an integral sun visor. Also tried a Shoei, but that are as painful today as they were 10 and 20 years ago - totally wrong for my head-shape. The point of this? Just to show that it is important to always wear good protective gear; a snug fitting quality helmet, gloves with knuckle protection (my knuckles were swollen, but whole, thanks to this feature) and a suit with padded added protection. Something I expect the majority of members here using all the time.
  13. I think we should satisified we are both basically unhurt and ready to do it all over
  14. What happened- My Highside Crash

    Note that I am miles from any kind of an eggspert, so do not put too much weight on what I'm typing. However, having watched the video several times over, this is what I noted: - Could it be that you apply throttle like a stepper motor? Several places during the video, it sounds like the engine goes eh-eH-EH-EEHH in steps instead of gaining speed gradually, like you would expect with a smooth and even continuous throttle application. This could of course be down to your engine's natural response and/or the sound pickup. - It seems like you apply throttle a bit eagerly just before you crash, making it sound as if the rear is spinning up. Then the rear begins to overtake you, and you give it more throttle, likely a result of being whacked by the bike and not a willed reaction. My guess is that you came on a little strong on the throttle just as the rear wheel was on a slick patch, either from extra standing water or something with the surface itself. So a combination of poor timing due to bad luck as these things can be impossible to spot in the wet. The good thing is that you are OK. And you also shout NOOO much shorter than me - I keep going
  15. Not sure why this rider is so much faster than the others, but I enjoyed watching how easy he makes it appear.
  16. The handlebars move a lot and quite violently. Not unusual per se, but quite strange for me to see it also in virtually straight line riding. The few times I've filmed myself, that doesn't happen to me, so I guess it's down to me being slow, but it would be interesting to hear why all the movement in the front.
  17. Thank you for sharing your insight, Hotfoot. I've never thought about the bars moving when being hit by gusts, but since the bike is often blow off course that seems quite likely.
  18. Better Body Position for Steering

    Better aerodynamics primarily.
  19. Better Body Position for Steering

    MOTORRAD tested a ZX-7R (so a long time ago) stock and with 4 inch riser. Eveybody went significantly faster through the slalom tests with the taller bars. The less experienced riders gained more than the experienced racer. After doing a ton of laps, pushing himself to his limits, the racer finally managed to set the fastest time around the race track with the stock bars - it was a pride thing for him - but it took a lot more effort to ride with the lower handlebars. Take a look at the handlebars used in the early Superbikes AMA days. Pretty tall and especially wide to gain leverage. Now look at the handlebars of Kenny Schwantz' RG500. That's a bike only 285 lb light, yet Kevin still had wide and tall bars compared to most of his competitors. In my humble opinion, you would love moving the handlebars up.
  20. Against the flow

    Having just re-read the "Lowering the body" topicI am going to present a few statements that will go against popular belief. Fortunately, I have not much scientific knowledge or evidence to support my statements, so there will be plenty of chances to debate against me. Still, I think I am right Let me start with a few examples: Mike Hailwood never did hang off in any way, but had superior cornering speed. Mick Doohan leaned out with his torso and hung his butt off to the inside, fully crossed up - the bike was leaning, his body hardly at all. He won tons of races and championships. Back in the 1960s, riders lapped IoM at over 100 mph on barely modified street bikes with little horsepower, little cornering clearance, poor brakes and even worse tyres. And to top it off the roads were in much worse condition than now. Only a few per cent of all riders in the world could go that fast on a BMW S1000RR today. In the late 1980s, a Performance Bikes test rider decked out the FZR750RR enough to lift the tyres and crash. He was hanging off. Another test rider previously went around the same corner at a higher speed, barely hanging off, nothing scraping. So, to my claims: Hanging off makes only a small difference in how far the bike must lean for any given cornering speed (this has been proved by MOTORRAD and others) Hanging off has no impact on safety Leaning out has no impact on safety Proper steering techniques is the primary tool need to go fast and is little impacted by rider positioning Only when you are looking for the last percentile does hanging off bring much of value Why do I believe this? Simply by observation and personal experience. How can a Superbike rider on slick tyres in pouring rain, bike almost upright through the corners, short-shifting to avoid spinning up, still circulate faster around a track than most street riders doing a track day in the dry, despite the latter dragging knees, braking hard and using a lot of revs and throttle? It can only come from the way the pros change direction and the lines they take. Same with the riders of the 50s and 60s - take a look at old movies, and they barely lean off vertical, never hanging off. But they sure lapped rapidly! In 1999, with both legs shot, having to be lifted onto the bike and get help pulling the clutch due to a damaged hand, riding for the first time in months after his career-ending crash, on a bike set-up for Criville and with the engine tune changed since Doohan last rode, not knowing the tyres, not being able to do much with his body from injuries - and on the second lap Mick was only 4 seconds off pole, just cruising around. Finally, look at a motoGP rider playing around, wheelying, barely hanging off, just having fun - and still riding within 10 seconds of the lap record. Clearly, there are things far more important than body position going on. Instead, I believe that using "proper" body positioning can help many riders into steering correctly. So it's not the body position that allow the bike to corner a lot faster, and they are not magically gaining acres of cornering clearance due to hanging off, but the rider may now being able to do the right things. Sit still on the bike and do the very same steering, and corner speed will be similar. Chicken strip widths as well, as hanging off alone only gain you 2-3 degrees. Finally, my own experiences. I tend to use relatively much lean, but it depend on the bike I'm riding. I recently rode a KTM 950 Super Enduro, and barely had to lean in order to keep a decent cornering speed. Same, strangely, with an old Z1 I recently rode - the chicken strips on the narrow tyres are immense, but cornering speed is pretty respectable. With my current FZ-07, I have no chicken strips on the rear tyre and just a hint on the front, but I do no go much faster. I cannot tell why. I sit upright most of the time. If I can see far ahead, I may lean my torso a little inwards. If visibility is poor, I hang out - or sit crossed up, as you say - in order to see further around the corner. Never have any of this caused me any grip issues. Perhaps I'm lacking experience - I've only been riding since 1980. Maybe the bike will bite me one day for my stupidity. So why do people lose the rear or the front and crash when they sit "wrong"? Either because they give the bike the wrong steering inputs or use either throttle or brakes wrong. Or all of them. The bike does not care how the weight is placed, just what that weight is doing, ie what moments/forces it sends through the bike. So there you have it, long rant over I honestly believe, had he lived and been in his prime today, Hailwood would have wiped the floor with all of you if you were all riding let's say BMW S1000RR with all gadgets turned off, you hanging off trying to play Marques, Mike sitting classically upright. Hotfoot being the possible exception. Could he have gone slightly faster if he learned to hang off properly? Sure. But his way of controlling the bike would be more important than what you gain by hanging off.
  21. Brembo stuff

    "They are crazy" http://www.crash.net/motogp/interview/283337/1/exclusive-lorenzo-bortolozzo-brembo-interview.html
  22. Brembo stuff

    This is the sort of weapon they use in the national competition
  23. Brembo stuff

    This week the annual national shooting contest is taking place, and I see an analogy here towards modern racing bikes. I do not shoot, nor am I particularly interested in guns, but I noticed that two shooters had 249 points from a possible 250 during the pre-qualifications, while 15 shooters in total will go the the final tomorrow, all with 246 points or more. Throughout history, starting in 1893, nobody in Norway have managed a perfect 250 score during the qualifications - the woman who leads missed by just 2 mm on a 15 cm large "10". They shoot from 300 meters, on time, kneeling, standing and laying flat. While the task is simple enough (aim and pull the trigger) - like riding a motorcycle with lots of rider aids - but the execution is very difficult if you want to win, and the tiniest miss have big consequences.
  24. Brembo stuff

    I agree with that, but this also makes it harder for a rider to make a difference, hence the rider must push closer to the edge of disaster. It was not possible to ride a 500GP bike to its limits every corner of a race because the bike wasn't predictable enough. But if a rider had a lucky day combined with enough bravery, he could win even if not the best rider. Today, you must be inch perfect and if you make a mistake you cannot just close your eyes and open the throttle to make up that time again - provided you didn't get tossed off in the process. Modern racing demand new qualites, but is in no way less challenging if the goal is to win.