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paab

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  1. Light to moderate chatter, Yes, I often just turn it in and it settles right down. Heavy wheel hop, chain slapping, suspension jacking chatter, no.
  2. Well, You're right, it could be setup, but it holds true for me on several different bikes. I race lightweight stuff, and use high corner speed. I keep my slicks pretty fresh. Forks/shock sorted by a pro (but I realize they're not perfect). I'm an experienced, competitive expert racer. Generally, I know that opening the gas earlier prevents front slides and chatter, but if either one of these conditions starts, I can't solve it by opening the gas more. Does anyone else out there have similar experience? Or am I way off base?
  3. You *can* save almost anything, but the risk of highsiding does go up as you try to save bigger and bigger moments. This year I saved a lowside (T2 Loudon) where both tires came of the ground. I was sliding on the footpeg, my ass and my elbow. I dug my outside heel into the bike so hard and the wheels touched down and the bike stood up. The corner workers were jumping up and down! It takes a lot of experience sliding and crashing to learn what you should try and what you should not. You do learn how to feel the slides earlier and earlier and picking up the bike is the answer. Getting on the gas doesn't seem to work for me because it just pushes the front MORE, or lifts it of the ground. I know that's the theory around here, but it just hasn't been my reality. I've never heard a pro say they gassed it to save a front slide. They usually say "I picked it up off my knee"
  4. Yes. Simple maximum braking a la MSF in a parking lot will help. 20mph, straight line, pick a marker and stop as quickly as you can. Measure your distance and practice until you are confident floating the rear tire only a 1/2 inch off the pavement. Keep your weight back as possible. Stoppies don't help your effectiveness. Increase your speed only when you feel your results are consistent and highly effective. Braking and turning are 2 different skills. practice them separately for a while and it will come together...
  5. Go slow to go fast. Finish a few seasons without getting hurt or crashing too much. Forget about "getting it loose". That's a LOOONG way down the road. Patience is the key to a long and successful career.
  6. Nope, your line was the first order of business. You can't have all those markers if you don't know what line you're aiming for. If you can do all that and still have brain power to focus on other things, you're either the top rider in the country, or you're just not going very fast... It should just about take all your focus. If not, you can always plan for dinner
  7. The faster you go, the more important it is. What you see on the racetrack are the results of riding near the limit of the bike's ability to cope. It's not rough rider inputs, but incredibly high braking, cornering and acceleration forces that make the bikes wiggle and squirm. If you not smooth at that level, you're going to be on your a$$. On the street it's not as critical, but it does make you a safer rider.
  8. Way too much compression damping? One click out? Where did you come up with that setting? I don't have a 636, but I'm just wondering. Have you changed fork oil? geometry? or done anything to the bike?
  9. OK that went in the wrong direction. This is refering to your outside foot mid corner, no? You probably aren't braking or shifting. it' just locking you onto the bike. The most solid position is the best one.
  10. I'd have to call BS on the leverage thing. The arch of your foot is much less solid than the ball (muscle Vs. bone). Most all leg based athletic manuevers get their power from the big toe, not the arch. If it's more relaxed and comfy, then OK, but It's just a style/comfort issue, not a leverage one.
  11. I just watched Doug Henry do some serious tire shredding at Loudon. He was pushing the bike under motocross style. He was shredding tires so fast it was unreal. He would step it out in the breaking zone, and never bring it back in line until he was going straight again. Some fast locals were right on his tail using the roadrace style hanging off. Their tires were in decent shape after the race and they were mostly in line through the turns.
  12. If you're steering to keep the bike up in a turn, then you are doing something wrong. Use the throttle to keep the bike up. Crack the throttle open as soon as the bike is at the desired lean angle, and roll on smoothly to keep the bike up mid corner and increase roll on as you stand it up. Taking the class is a great idea. If you can't afford it, a well organized trackday might be a cheaper way to learn a few things about this topic.
  13. Hmm... I don't think pushing on the bar has anything to do with it. In fact, I think that's the way most fast racers initiate a turn. Pulling on the outside bar is a much less controlled movement, and DEFINTELY less powerful. When you push, it comes from your center of gravity and has your weight behind it. Pulling tends to tug you off center, plus unless you lean back, there's not much leverage/power there. I would reconsider that technique... I'm not a CSS instructor, but I am a race instructor as well as MSF instructor. I would never tell anybody to pull on the outside bar. Leaning with the bike just takes practice. Moving your butt to the inside edge of your seat as you prepare to turn helps, as well as leading with your chin.
  14. At MSF, they say it is a factor at 12mph. Admittedly, the amount of countersteer needed at that low a speed is over with quickly, but if you didn't do it, you'd have a hard time not tipping over.
  15. Bones, No offense intended: I think it's dangerous. I run my warm-up lap hard. As a result, I'm often in front of people gridded ahead of me. Weaving is chaos. There is no good reason to do it. As alwayslearning mentioned, you just exposed the "fresh rubber" on your warm-up lap!!!
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