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Hi Apollo Part one "screwdriver hand". Try transitioning to lower body positions when your bike is on stands. Position your hand on the grip in a normal position during turn entry, only snugging up the index finger and thumb all other fingers completely loose. As your upper body drops in keep your wrist straight with your forearm/elbow and relaxed. Screwdriver hand will happen automatically if you relax and let it. Once you get that part down and want to apply it on track, you will be finding new positions that you prefer on the grip, usually a little closer to the end. That's the part needs to be worked into the sequence of things to do. I usually re-position my hand between rolling off the throttle and finishing my braking, depending on the type of turn and the speeds involved. Part two Buttonwillow First of all, I have only ridden at Buttonwillow a couple times. I watched the video and it looks like you are getting around there pretty well. I agree that you need to figure out a line for the Sweeper and the Esses. I would recommend starting by looking at the track map (believe you are running config Race #13) and penciling in some RPs to figure what you know and what you need to find out.When you are looking at the map, you should notice the first Ess is more offset/tighter than the others (look at it with a straight edge), use this to help decide when you can get pinned on what line. Getting this figured out will give you a turn in area for the Esses and will help you choose a better line through the sweeper and will know where your next RP is. Also decide where you want the TP to be for the last left out of the Esses, choose one that will let you use all of track when you are on the gas. Sunset is another turn you can improve your time. Watch the video again and think about what would change if you used a later apex. Cheers

thigh master type resistance work is good. There's also good exercises here: https://weighttraining.guide/tag/pectineus/ as well as https://barbend.com/adductor-exercises-for-strength/ and the Strong Curves program by Brett Contreras, while directed towards women, has a strong focus on glutes and legs and I use elements of that as I can. My biggest issue is consistency, it's so easy to stop doing it for way too long.

HP4 Race...pretty sweet.

Definitely a mint condition NSR250/RS250R GP bike. Ultimate lightweight track toy.

Riding horses. I remember someone getting a ThighMaster, was that Stuman?

Britten V1000

Honda RVF750R RC45

Wait until Cobie realizes it, he more or less forced me to learn to do it. . But once I started I never stopped, I really like it, it is so much quicker and generally has less drama than trying to use the clutch, because you eliminate that possibility of holding the clutch a little too long on a downshift and having the revs drop too far and then sliding the tire as you let it out. I have not had any transmission problems - I was definitely worried that I would, but I never did. I do it on every bike - the Z125, the dirt bike, the race bike. All the bikes I have right now shift REALLY easily clutchless, but there was one bike I had that was tougher, the ZX6R was always harder to shift clutchless and I never did know why. My one caveat is this - sometimes when shifting down to first I do use the clutch, because that is the hardest one to rev-match, and/or you can accidentally get a false neutral and those are scary. (Clutchless doesn't, as far as I can tell, increase the incidence of false neutrals, but if I DO get one I seem to recover faster when I used the clutch to shift, because I am quicker to pull it back in and upshift, it is hard to get a clutchless upshift under that condition because the revs fall off so quick, it is very clunky.)

Not that this will have much interest to anybody but me, but here is an update anyway 😄 When I bought the bike, it had a new Michelin PR4 on the rear and rather worn PR3 up front. Soon after, I replaced the brake discs and took the opportunity to fit a Pilot street, the mentioned narrower 110/70R17. When the new discs also warped, I fitted the spare wheel with stock, straight discs and a 65% worn Bridgestone BT30F mounted. With all these three front tires together with the PR4 rear, the bike demanded more lean than expected. With the PR3 and PS the bike steered fairly neutral and worked fine also on gravel. The BT30 did not take well to gravel. It also demanded a lot of counter-steering throughout every corner -- every time I relaxed fully the bars, the bike went for upright and a straight line. Unlike the Michelins - the narrow PS had no chicken strips in the end - the BT30 would fold on worn tarmac at peg scraping pace repeatedly, giving a sensation of falling over another 10 degrees (but probably no more than a couple). Each time, it regained grip slowly but smoothly, all I did was relax and wait. You can see the slip marks, which of course went around the circumference on both sides, in this image The PR4, OTOH, had the most even wear across the thread that I have ever experienced - since I only ride on the road, up until now my tires have always been flat to varying degrees in the middle. However, what I really wanted to discuss is the experience I had today on a new pair of tires. A lot of Deauville riders praise the PR2 as superb for the bike, so I decided to try that. Then I read a test of the Maxxis M6029 Supermaxx and went for that up front. Yes, I know many say never mix brands, and preferably not models. But I have done that since 1980, mostly with great results, but also a few that did not work. I have, though, had more tires from the same maker that did not work admirably. So how did the pairing work? Splendid! The only thing not quite perfect is that the bike now want to ever so slightly fall into corners and need a touch of input to straighten up - opposite to what it was, but also to a much, much lesser degree. Confidence and grip was excellent from the moment I left the garage with the fresh rubber, and there was no hint of insecurity or numbness throughout the 200+ mile ride. The rear tire lost any trace of virgin rubber within 10 miles.They even worked nice on gravel. Most interesting, though, is that the bike now require much less lean for any given corner speed, acting similarly to any other motorcycle. How and why I cannot say, but I could corner faster than before but did not scrape once. Peculiar, but also very positive. Maxxis fresh before the ride Ditto PR4

Just finished up the July 2020 two day camp at The Ridge. (Levels 1 and 2). I had a great time and learned some new things too. Thank you to the entire staff, without your hard work it wouldn't be the success it has become. Particular thanks to Chris as my on track coach. I look forward to riding with the school again. Jim

Faffi adds an excellent point; a little stiffness in the arms (a common in-too-fast survival reaction) will restrict bar movement, add load to the front, and potentially add some countersteering input that leans the bike over farther which can VERY easily overload a front tire that is already near the traction limit. Some braking references in Twist II that might help you (the OP) on info about leaned-over braking: Ch 24 Braking sections "Efficient Braking", "In-turn Brakes", "Crash Statistics", and "Brave or Smart". Also the chapters in Section II on "Rider Input" and Section III on Steering and Lines would be good to review.

Good point, same with the books - I notice every time I re-read Twist II, it looks a bit different to me - as my riding has evolved I have seen things I either didn't fully understand before OR could apply in a different way than I had before. Amazing how that works.