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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/06/2020 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Could be l used to be more abrupt, and l definitely was braking late on purpose, so that could well be the issue. On the Honda, l now brake less hard and ease off them, then going directly to rolling on the throttle. I am beginning to get to grips with setting the entry speed early, but with 40 years of braking deep it is what I know. At the age of 16, riding a CB100 limited to 50 mph, l would brake at the latest moment possible as often as l could, and l gave myself a maximum of one yard error - if l stopped sooner or, much worse, overshot, it wad considered a fail. I did this on all sorts of surfaces and conditions, and with time became pretty good at judging braking distances and "feeling" the available grip. That was also the only thing l learned well, though...
  2. 1 point
    When you were trail braking could your brake release have been a little too quick or your rebound too soft? When the brake is released abruptly the forks will extend, making the bike suddenly run wide, which would change your line AND force you to have to delay the throttle until the bike came back around to your desired line. It can be really hard, when trail braking, to get the brake release slow and gradual enough to avoid that. Additionally, it is much harder to precisely judge entry speed when braking late/trail braking versus setting the entry speed earlier and using less (or no) brakes. That's the purpose of the no-brakes drill we do, to fine-tune entry speed. Is it possible that before, your entry speed was just a tad too high, so you were running slightly wide and having to wait too long to get on the throttle? (That is a very common problem!)
  3. 1 point
    Thanks, Jaybird, good video. This is absolutely correct, and very well explained in a simple manner. It is not as dramatic as the video suggest - I think it is about 4 degrees difference between a 130 and a 240 mm wide rear tire, all things else being equal - but it is significant. Not the primary reason on my bike as it has a 120/70 front and a 150/70 rear tire.
  4. 1 point
    I signed up for the 3 day camp. So excited...
  5. 1 point
    Hi Apollo Part one "screwdriver hand". Try transitioning to lower body positions when your bike is on stands. Position your hand on the grip in a normal position during turn entry, only snugging up the index finger and thumb all other fingers completely loose. As your upper body drops in keep your wrist straight with your forearm/elbow and relaxed. Screwdriver hand will happen automatically if you relax and let it. Once you get that part down and want to apply it on track, you will be finding new positions that you prefer on the grip, usually a little closer to the end. That's the part needs to be worked into the sequence of things to do. I usually re-position my hand between rolling off the throttle and finishing my braking, depending on the type of turn and the speeds involved. Part two Buttonwillow First of all, I have only ridden at Buttonwillow a couple times. I watched the video and it looks like you are getting around there pretty well. I agree that you need to figure out a line for the Sweeper and the Esses. I would recommend starting by looking at the track map (believe you are running config Race #13) and penciling in some RPs to figure what you know and what you need to find out.When you are looking at the map, you should notice the first Ess is more offset/tighter than the others (look at it with a straight edge), use this to help decide when you can get pinned on what line. Getting this figured out will give you a turn in area for the Esses and will help you choose a better line through the sweeper and will know where your next RP is. Also decide where you want the TP to be for the last left out of the Esses, choose one that will let you use all of track when you are on the gas. Sunset is another turn you can improve your time. Watch the video again and think about what would change if you used a later apex. Cheers
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