toly900

If the front wheel is in the air then where can it go? All the force is being taken throught the rear tyre Even if you opened the throttle fully at full lean the rear would spin out not the front The only way you can really upset the front tyre after corner entry to mid turn is to push really hard by re-steering and in this case you wouldn't be on the gas as you have already made the mistake and trying to correct it. Even fighting the steering (adding lean)on a fast corner with the throttle on hard will result in reducing the grip from the rear not the front Anyway this is way off topic from what is being said.The crucial thing for me to hold a line is timing when I get back on the gas which is determind by turn in which itself is dictated by the shape of the corner

The tyre profile will certain affect the steering but I'd expect a more direct response from the 65 and more push and resistance from a 60 which is more likely to make the bike run wide.The thing about a bike standing up on the brakes is it's usually the rider who instigates it and by that I don't mean you are to blame.I'm guessing you sense there isn't enough grip/steering to continue braking and turning in so one has to go and the uncomfortable feeling makes you choose slowing the bike rather than letting off the brakes and taking your chances with more entry speed.You mentioned the 636 is your wife's and it's running similar settings ,is that just for the forks or both ends?Your basic problem is either not enough weight transfer to the front or it's returning too quickly.I'm guessing here but have you by any chance lowered the rear on the 636 to make your wife more comfortable to reach the floor?If you haven't then try letting some preload off the forks(mabye 2-3mm)at a time and go for a test

Hi I'm new to this board but i've got to agree wholeheartedly with Racer for you to stick with the recommendations given by the people who distribute your shock.At the minute I'm guessing you're on a Honda and you're on the large side judging by the spring rates you mentioned but it is still a big variation.The answer to your question about the correct spring rate doesn't exist in as much as there isn't enough information in that statement to get a definative.There are calculations that can be used to get repeatable results but in all honesty they require a preformed plan regarding both static and rider sag figures which are all part of how the tuner sees his personal solution to make the best job.The fact that these initial ideas are formed based on what he knows about the geometry and weight distribution of the machine he is dealing with along his preffered(and fiercely guarded)damping curves makes it impossible to say one guy is more right than another.Personally I find the subject fascinating and the more you learn the more you feel like you are juggling an ever increasing amount of balls to increase one aspect without affecting others and would say if you are really interested in learning then do as racer says and throw a few springs at it and formulate some ideas of your own based on what you find.My own endevours have brought some brilliant results as well as some scary moments and more dissapointments than I care to think about but it's all good for me