BLSJDS

hey how did you make the video? +1 What did you use to make that? Very cool!

Hopefully we won't need rain tires. The forecast will definitely change, because they never get it right & a lot can happen in a week, but right now, the early part of next week looks ok [...crosses fingers...] FWIW, I did Level I in very wet conditions a few years ago at Thunderbolt and had no issues on the Q2s.

FWIW, I completed the Power Commander V, Ignition Module, & Quick Shifter installation. Here is my story: It wasn't too difficult, but at times very tedious because just getting to some of the fuel injector connectors, etc was really tough with my big stupid hands. After I got everything wired up and the bike back together, I took it for a test ride. It started fine, there was no "FI" light, and throttle response seemed good, so I guess the fuel and ignition maps that I loaded were ok. Then I decided to test the quick shifter. I accelerated in second gear to about 6000 rpm, stepped on the gear shifter and NOTHING happened. No momentary ignition kill, no seamless gear shifting, nothing. So I tried it a few more times, using a lot more pressure on the gear shifter (thinking it may not be sensing the pressure of my foot). Still nothing. Well, actually - not nothing. I successfully BENT the shift rod because I was pushing down so hard. F'ed it up real good. So I ride back home, cursing up a storm and ready to cry. I re-flash all the software, make sure everything is programmed properly, and unbend the shift rod. Take the bike for another ride, still NOTHING (except for more bending of the shift rod). WTF?!?!?!?!? I decide it is time to check the wiring connections, starting with the quick shifter wiring to the Power Commander. Only I discover that I didn't wire it to the Power Commander, I f'ing accidentally wired it to the Ignition Module, which looks just like the f'ing Power Commander!!!! So I wire it up correctly to the Power Commander, once again unbend the increasingly weakening OEM aluminum shift rod, and take it for yet another test ride. Now it works perfectly! I mean, it is absolutely awesome. Just tap on the gear shifter and it jumps right into the next gear, no clutch needed, full throttle the entire time (except for the 65 millisecond cut off of the ignition) and off you go. It is an absolute blast to ride, just stupid fun - ha ha . Only issue now is that I had to order a new, stronger shift rod because the crummy, bent up, OEM aluminum one is just about toast. I hope to have it later this week and them I'm good to go for CSS in a week . Again - thanks Timmer for all the additional information and support! A full exhaust, the PAIR mod, & Auto Tune aren't far behind...

Sorry to hear about the get off - that sucks . What bike were you riding? So what exactly happened to cause the crash?

That's what I thought, but there doesn't seem to be any moving parts on the quickshifter (unless mine is broken?), so I didn't know how the switch inside was closed. I'm guessing it is pressure sensitive? If so, that's pretty cool. Can it be adjusted to have more or less pressure to activate it? (I don't have any problems as I haven't even tested it out yet, I am just curious ). I am going to throw the voltmeter on it tonight just to see it in action .

Thanks for the additional info, Timmer . I had a 1987 Corvette that I did a lot of engine work to and wound up getting into DIY tuning. I had an AFR meter that would also data log rpm, MAF sensor data, throttle position, etc. Getting the fuel correct got a lot easier as I went along and I had the AFR info to guide me, but I was never really sure that the timing was optimal since I never put the car on the dyno. I wouldn't mind experimenting with a few degrees here and there on the CBR to see if I can pick up some HP . I do have one more question: How does the quickshifter solenoid actually work? What causes the signal to be sent to the PCV? I think it is pressure sensitive, but I was surprised that there didn't seem to be any movement or compression of the ends of the solenoid to somehow activate the signal. How does it sense the pressure? I'll need to steal my daughter's laptop for trackside adjustments, so no making fun of the light purple color .

Excellent. It is a very different experience for sure .

Can you adjust the rearsets to better position your leg?

Thank you so so much, Timmer - I really appreciate the detailed information! 1. Yes - when doing the initial set up at my desk, I had BOTH the PCV & the IM hooked up via USB and verified that both devices were recognized. 2. Are there any customized ignition maps available (like the fuel maps)? Or is it best to get the bike on a dyno to play around with the timing? My bike is stock (for now), so there may not be much to gain from any changes. 3. Excellent information - thank you! I believe I enabled it with both devices hooked up, but now I'm just about done hooking them up to the bike, so I'll do it again as you described with the bike on, just to be sure. 4. Yup - just bought it, so "Normally Open" it is . 5. Again - excellent information - thank you! The PCV is completely wired up, and tonight I hope to finish up the IM and the Quickshifter. I plan to have the bike back together by this weekend for some test riding. I'll be at Thunderbolt on 5/21 & 5/22 for "further testing" . Dan

The goal of "getting a knee down" always makes me laugh. I understand it, but I feel they are missing the point of what they are trying to achieve entirely. THIS is something I intend to work on at my next Level IV session. In my case, I think it is more vision related.

That is exactly why I get SO much more out of CSS than I do a regular track day. During a regular track day, there are sessions where I will go out without a specific practice plan, and that's when I find the occasional bad habit appear. I need to make an effort to think about what I am doing and get myself "re-focused" on whatever skill I think I need to work on. One of the things I regret in my life is never really becoming an expert (or close to it) at anything. I'm one of those "jack of all trades, master of none" type of guys. Now, at age 42, I've started to narrow my range of activities and at least make an attempt to get somewhat decent at what I choose to do. At some point, after many, many years of practice and CSS, I'd like to say "yeah, I can take a corner pretty good"...

Crash - you are describing TWO steering inputs to get to the desired lean angle PRIOR to the apex, which is generally the result of one or several improper techniques. The way I read Mugget's description is more of a double apex corner, since he mentions EXITING the first corner (see bolded above), meaning he has already hit his apex but is not yet fully upright as he drives out and now has to lean for the next corner.

Sorry Crash, but this response does not at all address Mugget's question or the track configuration he is describing. Mugget - with respect to the quick turn when the bike is not fully upright - I agree with Kai. Turns 9 & 10 (IIRC) at Thunderbolt are just as you've described (though they are right handers). You drive out of 9 but never get the bike fully upright, and then you turn much further into 10. The quick turn is performed just the same, only less lean angle is added since the bike is already leaned in some. (In this example, for me - my corner entry speed is already set and I am NOT on the brakes when I lean into 10).

Hey Timmer, I finally received my stuff (PCV, Ignition Module, & Quickshifter). I updated the software / firmware and started to familiarize myself with everything. Now I have some questions: 1. When I click "Send Map" in the tuning software, it sends EVERYTHING (not just the fuel map) to the PCV, correct? Meaning it sends the ignition map, any configuration changes I made (like for the quickshifter), etc. 2. Does the ignition map / grid work the same way as the fuel map? Meaning, if you want to change timing somewhere, you would enter it as a percentage change. So if the ignition map reads all "0" across the board, it means that nothing is changed from the OEM ignition map. Don't worry, I'm not playing around with the timing...yet... . 3. In the settings for Quickshifter Configuration, since I am using the Ignition Module to kill the spark, I should select "Kill Spark Only", correct? Dumb question, but I just want to be sure. 4. Also in the settings for Quickshifter Configuration, since I am using a PUSH type sensor, I should select "Normally Open", correct? 5. Finally - what settings do you recommend for Quickshifter enabled RPM & kill time? IIRC, the initial programming has it at 3000 rpm and 65 ms kill time (for each gear). Although I do see a list of kill times for each gear, I am not sure if my set up allows to have a different kill time for each gear. Do you know? That's it for now - thank you so much for your time & help!! Dan

Cool Majdi - I will definitely look for you! See you in two weeks - Dan 2008 Blk & Orange CBR600RR

Great to hear, mugget!

Given how large a role electronics play in MotoGP, my guess is no.

Only if it was intentional .

Anyone else going to be at NJMP Thunderbolt on 5/21 & 5/22? I will be there for a few more Level IV sessions. I was down there last weekend with TPM, so hopefully I won't have too many cob webs to dust off my brain .

Based on the inside foot position you've described and from what I can tell from the pictures, you are positioning your foot like I used to do. Try re-positioning it like I described - it was a huge difference for me. If you are locked on with the outside leg, the inside leg should not be straining to support anything; it can just "hang out" there (pun intended). You do not need to weight the inside peg at all. If you need to tighten up a turn, CSS teaches a drill / skill called the "hook turn", where you move your upper body a little more forward & down to the inside by essentially dropping your elbow and pointing it to the ground. It works very well . Everyone has a different body type, degree of flexibility, strength, etc. What is a comfortable position on the bike for some may not be for others. You need to find that position so you can focus your attention elsewhere.

When I first read the title, I immediately thought "physical fitness / leg strength training", but after reading your post, I think the technique is causing your issue. I'm not saying there wasn't a reason for what the instructor told you about pushing on the inside peg, but I agree with what Steve said. FWIW - I talked to Cobie about a similar issue I was having a few years ago. For the life of me, I could not get my inside leg into a comfortable and relaxed position in the corner. My outside leg was locked in nicely, I was relaxed on the bars, but the inside leg always felt fatigued & improperly positioned. It turned out to be something as simple as repositioning my inside foot on the foot peg as I approached & set up for the corner. I had been keeping the balls of my feet on the foot peg and extending my knee outward as I went into (and around) the corner. Now, I take my inside foot and turn the sole of my boot to face the bike and rest the pinky toe "ball" on it's side on the footpeg. It was a night & day difference for me. I could hang out in a corner all day in that position and my knee easily finds the pavement. It might be worth giving something like this a try.

Hey Tom - Welcome to the forum! There is a TON of great information here. I had an '03 954RR and loved that bike; sometimes I really miss it (on an '08 600RR now). Enjoy! Dan

Hey Timmer - Thanks very much for confirming. I'm sure I will have questions once I begin the installation. Regarding the shift rod, the OEM rod length is about 187mm. The shorter rod you mentioned (part # 32104060) is 135mm, so I am estimating that the quick shifter module itself is about 52mm. Right now, I have an aftermarket shift rod (due to the Woodcraft rear sets) that measures 235mm (the rod in the picture). Based on an estimated quick shifter module length of 52mm, I would need a shift rod measuring 183mm to make this set up work. Since the OEM rod is 187mm, I think it just might work out. If not, maybe I can get away with cutting it down a bit. Thanks again! Dan

Thank you very much, Timmer! Ok - so my shopping list is as follows: PCV part # 16-001 Ignition Module part # 6-70 Quick Shifter Pressure Shift Sensor part # 4-114 I've got a set of Woodcraft rear sets in the MotoGP configuration (see picture below), so I believe the push type pressure sensor would be the correct set up. Based on the picture, what length / size shift rod do I need to install the pressure sensor? My current shift rod measures 9.25" end to end (not counting the nuts on either end). Again - thank you so much for your help! Dan