twaym54

Thanks Steve for your answer to the "myth" of the DOT tires on the street. Its very much appreciated. Will look forward to your future posts.

I am a little confused. Correct me if I read your question wrong. But why would you change your rims? 2008 R6 (along with most every 600cc bike since the late 90's) has a 5.5x17 rear rim. There is no need to change to a different size rim. Please clarify. Also please clarify which D211 you speak of. D211GPA or D211GP. see this post for clarification: http://forums.superb...indpost&p=20491 steve, with regard to the rims, i read it as having a spare set of rims with the 211's mounted up for the track. i'm guessing that he's talking about having a set of q2's mounted up for street riding and then switching to wheels with the 211's mounted up for track riding? Thats exactly what I meant by changing rims, one set for street and one for track. Keeping in mind that using the D211GPA's ( which I was refering to ) for occasional country road/ canyon rides would not be good to do, based on others opinions that DOT's don't reach proper temps being used this way, and therefore are not as safe, as say using the Q2's, which have a broader usable temp range? Just bringing this up as maybe another tire myth. Sorry Steve, I missed the thread on choosing between track tires, and your response seems to pretty much answer my question about this. I guess this is sort of a chicken and egg kind of situation, the perverbial when do we know when were ready to step up to better tires, suspension, ect ect. Thanks again. Mike

First, much thanks to you all at CSS for the email directing me to this forum. Great info and posts for sure!! Thanks to you Steve for your insights about the "urban myths" on tires, warmers, heat cycles, ect ect. One question I have after reading the tire pressure thread, is it worth the extra cost, and trouble of switching rims to run the D211's for a mid paced "I" rider, for track day riding, If better riders are running lap times on a Q2 type of tire ( street/track ) that I have not been able to get to? I guess you could ask the same thing about any bike mod in this regard to suspension, ect. I have done the school two times with the BYOB and three two day camps, all at Barber, so I'm not opposed to investing in upgrades. Just don't want to waste my money. Also, what about the pro/con of running a 211 for country road, canyon type rides? Another myth about safety in regards to tire temp on the street? ( keeping in mind what Steve said about tread depth, wear ). Also forgot to mention, this is for a 2008 R6. On a side note, I hope that all of the terrible weather news about the recent floods in Southern Cal, have spared any of you CSS and other folks. If not, your in my thoughts. Thanks again for all the info. Mike

I'm thinking that too. Just registered for 2 day camp @ Barber, and the BMW is the listed bike for the camp. I've never trusted myself on a litre bike, on the street or the track, and the thought makes me pucker a bit, should I be concerned?

Just wondering if the school bikes will be using the newer Q2's this next season. I'm thinking of buying a set when my current tires wear out.

I have done up to level 3 in the CSS school at Barber, and 6 other trackdays this season. I have one more scheduled this weekend, then its over for this year. The one thing that is still bugging me, that I want to think about over the winter, is how to gain confidence, and get some "head for speed." Is it the vision and "wideview" of lesson 4, level 2, and on page 88 of TWOT 2. or should I consider hypno therapy,(just kidding, maybe). Like the person who is satisfied with the intermediate slopes, making easy gradual turns, should I be satisfied with form and maybe the speed will come without any conscious effort? And if I run at the back of the pack, so be it. Thanks for any opinions.

Holding the throttle and then applying the brake---you mean the front brake? Or rear? If one has the front on, and keeps some throttle on, it can push the front. The transition from off to on throttle should be smooth. Our 6's are great. Some riders are a little abrupt with their wrists, some have too much play in the throttle cable, sometimes the mapping is off. Cush drive being a little loose was one issue long ago on one bike. I personally like zero throttle play, just so it will not rev when twisting the front from lock to lock. This makes it easy for me to make that transition smoothly. Are you going to have your bike at Barber--if so, you could have Will look it over. CF Cobie, Thanks for your response. I will be doing the two day camp, so I will be using your bike. Mine is in the shop to check the throttle cable play, and mapping. I am sure I am guilty of getting back on the throttle way too late, and depending too much on some trail braking. I was refering to holding a very small amount of front brake, and very small amount of throttle, at the same time, to ease the transition back to a smooth acceleration out of the turn. Looking forward to learning more about this later this month.

"Also holding the throttle open, and applying the brake gently keeps the bike very smooth." I have a followup question on this .On my GSX600, if I let the throttle off completely, no matter how smooth I try to roll it back on, there is a definate thud in the responce. But experimenting with this idea of holding on a bit of throttle, and applying brake, it makes for a smoother transition out of a low speed corner. I have adjusted the cable to as tight as possible. I am having my dealer check the mapping as well. Any thoughts from some of the more experienced on this? Is it something that a fairly new track rider should use? I am doing the two day camp at Barber on the 31st, so will be interested to see if the ZX6s have the same feel.