ozfireblade

Hey, yeh I am a PT down in Melbourne, maybe catch you around down at Phillip Island, me and a few mates will be down there 20 Sept, enjoy the forum heaps of really good advice to improve your riding!! Dylan

Hey Gina, Welcome!!!, another PT in the forum awesome!! Might help people to join if you let us in on the secret.......Whats the name of your group? Do you have a link? Dylan

Gutted mate, though of course, you're not going to leave it like this are you? Give them pain mate. Bullet I have already contacted the other paraplegic who races motorcycle/sidecar, and will wait for the official letter to arrive before passing it on to a lawyer for appeal and possible discrimination. I am trying very hard to remain an ocean of calm! T Bugger the calm mate do your nut!!! what a bunch of wank.....ers

Hey mate, I tried answering that one for you in the other thread

great advice!! I'll be sure to check those discs.. both!! what you said about fatiguing in hand and forearm actually got me really curious.. how are they supposed to feel like when you are braking hard?? I'm firmly applying my brake while trying to maintain my forearms as level as possible at the same time keeping myself as close to the back of the seat as possible.. which would be something like grappling on to the brake lever while pushing my body away from the front of the bike with my arms.. the force is quite intense, and that took a lot of strength and energy to do. How is it possible to hard brake without gripping on strongly?? Gday mate, Just wondering if you have attended a school level yet? I think the problem is your holding on too tight to the bars and getting 'wrist pump', the more you straighten your arms ie lock them out and increase your grip whilst pushing yourself away on the hangers (like white knuckle tight), the more the forces will transfer throughout the bike causing a bit more instability, basically your stopping the bike from doing its thing. We also need to look at what your doing with your knees, are you locked onto your tank and using the pressure from the inside of your knees to provide stability? Doing this gives you the ability to loosen/relax your arms, so they kinda work like shock absorbers allowing the bike to correct itself. Doing this should get rid of your arm pump and sore wrists. I would suggest to buy the Twist DVD because Keith actually covers this exact point in depth and explained alot better than I can. Hope my 2 cents worth helps Dylan

Welcome matey what they said

Christ mate you should be on 60 minutes at least it would be worth watching. I thought I was having a shi??ty week, then I read this and it doesnt seem so bad... mind you I get the same feeling as you..expecting to fall off every time I get on the track

Looks like nice and windy through there!!! do you guys only have one way traffic or are te roads unmarked?

Thanks guys, Im pretty chuffed about it!! More time on a bike and getting paid for it, its teaching people new to riding at this stage so its not like Im a CSS coach or doing much track work, but if I practise the basics with them the other stuff will be easier to get a grip on later on. Moulding them from scratch!! Hey Bullet! it is a massive motivation for me to be a CSS coach one day I just want to get some more exposure to racing first then maybe have a go at it if CSS would have me.....Hi Adam Dylan

To the CSS team worldwide, Since becoming a member of the forum and attending CSS (Australia hopefully US & UK as well) I have always tried to improve my knowledge of riding the street and track, mainly to keep up with all the information put forward in the forum. So recently I decided to take it one step further... I have completed my motorcycle instructor course with a well known Australian motorcycle skills training provider and now Im working casually as an instructor. Im a MOTORCYCLE INSTRUCTOR!!!!! happy as ten men!!!!! This is all thanks to the inspiration from the CSS team and the guys on the forum. Hopefully one day I'll be good enough to be a CSS coach as well Cheers guys Dylan

OK, first I need to correct myself: I have 7mm travel left on the front, not 25 (I confused the numbers from by roadbike, which seems to be heavily oversprung on the front. But that's a separate topic). Here's the hard data: Front: 12 clicks compression / 8 clicks rebound / 10 turns of preload. There are 20 clicks of compression and rebound, and 16 turns of preload. Rear: 10 clicks compression / 6 clicks rebound / 5 turns of preload. There are 22 clicks of compression and rebound, and 16 turns of preload. The reasoning for reducing the rebound damping was to allow the rear to extend quicker and thereby keeping a better contact with the road. Bullet's point is that it might be that the rear shock is topping out, in which case rebound has no effect at all. Fossil, what is the logic for increasing the rebound damping on the rear in this case? So far my plan says: 1) check sag, 2) reduce preload on the rear (-2), 3) increase the preload (+2) and/or compression damping in the front (I'm thinking preload as 3a, compression as 3b). Thanks, Kai Kai, I was thinking of what they call the "pogo" effect. This is when you do not have enough damping for the shock to do its job. The spring is compressed while you are riding but as you apply brakes to the front, the down force on the front and shift of weight snaps the back up. If you dampen the compression on the front another 2 clicks and slow the rate of the forks compressing while damping the rate of rebound or pogo in the rear to 10 clicks, the transfer of weight to the front might be reduced....just a thought. You said you reduced rebound another two clicks and nothing happened? You are way down on the amount of rebound damping which makes me believe you don't have enough... has the rear end felt a little bouncy or squirmy while riding over bumps or on the throttle on exit? I get the exact problem in one particular turn every single time and it feels like the arse end is just like a pogo stick...now i know how to fix it thanks Foss

Hey oz this is OZ, its my name not yours!!!!! about the tires I ride the same pressure as I do on the track 30 front and rear (COLD), like everyone says a couple more for a heavier bikes is the G O. Cobie mentioned (another thread that I cant find) that he rides the same presurres as track to road as being why would you want a smaller contact patch on the road than on the track? made sense and my tire wear isnt much different. 40 sounds way too high to me is that hot or cold? No ones asked yet if that is your HOT or COLD pressure so can you clarify that for me Cheers Bud see ya round tha traps Dylan

+1

Conquered? we were an early relocation area for misunderstood individuals who had particular interests.....like winning at sport againts Poms!!!!!!

My bike is the best bike.!!........... cause its mine!!!! and the race track is my ideal tool

I use this a bit probablty not as much as I should but one thing I do is use it in conjuction with is the pick up drill, for some reason it makes that drill easier for me.

And welcome back from Australia kind of a worldwide welcome back Bullet !!!!

clutchless upshift, clutch for downshift mostly track some commuting

Gday Tom, I think its best if you rang the office (International: Phone: +613 9763 3338 Fax: +613 9763 3830) and have a chat to Sandy at the Australian school. They will have the best advice. Hope to see you at the Island Dylan

Nice

Heretic That clip just doesnt show the close up of the front end and what the steering is actually doing..i cant explain it as well as the TOTW DVD but in it it shows exactly what happens. So really apart from trying to prove someone wrong he is actually confirming the countersteering theory correct and that he has some big brass ones!!!!

Me personally on the track dont use the rear brake but I do use it when riding around town. I think of the the brakes this way Front brake for big braking when travelling at speed (obviuously big brakes big stopping power) and rear brake for slow speed manouvering tight turns less than 10 km/h etc. Yes I know that Rossi uses his rear brake to turn in and trail brakes but for me i'm not at that level plus I work off the principle of KISS (Keep it simple stupid). On track I guess if your are as fast or are your local fast guy then maybe you may use your rear brake but if your a D grader or novice and your talking about using rear brake and trailing it in then I would suggest to learn how to walk before learning to run. But if your not into the track or just regurgitate something off the net then book into a track day and see why the school teaches the way it does. If you can stay with the top riders of the world I would suggest maybe opening a school of your own Cheers

so many questions lol, i would suggest a fist away from your tank and lock in your knees push down on the outside peg. Im just wondering if you have attended any of the schools levels yet? These will clear up the majority of your questions

looks like your a little crossed up on the bike try dropping your elbow into the corner, that should move your upper body into a good hang off position, try that first then we can see a bit more with a different picture, maybe inside the turn?

Crash106, I got it. Man, the whole week I was so much focused on late turn in point and quick turn techniques, that I totally forgot about APEX!! . Today I did try to connect the dots from turn in point to the apex. Of course it worked for me ! THANK YOU! Another thing I found scary today is looking far into the exit point of the turn. After hittin apex and exiting the turn, I find myself looking 10 feet in front of me and unconsciously to the outside of the turn (not staring but that's where my mind 'look'). I feel as if I will start running wide if I don't look to the outside of the turn. What should I do? pick up drill, cant remember the chapter but its in TOTW2 but its chapter 19 on the TOTW DVD