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jjmccbmw

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About jjmccbmw

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    Cornering Apprentice

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  • Location
    Bristol UK

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  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    Yes
  1. Another vote for Stowe. If you're trying to learn a lot of new stuff, then keep it simple. I've signed up for 19 March, it'll be fine. I always find it easier to get a consistant line when there's tracks in the snow to follow.
  2. Having an overall aim that you ultimately strive for might help? Mine's to learn as much as I can to improve my road riding (ok, so it's a lot of fun doing it but that's just something I have to endure). Once you know what your aim is you can brake it down into areas like braking and changing or quick turns etc. Another overall aim might be to maximise the speed at which you're still confident and comfortable in corners or to get within 110% of your favourite track's record? If you can find yours it might help? If you can't come up with something before the day maybe you just need to do a couple of laps in front of the instructor NOT trying too hard and see what he thinks the biggest area for improvement is? Hope this helps.
  3. There's an exercise on level 2 something like this. If I had to pick just one thing that improved my ridng it would be this. On top of a general improvement, being put off-line by other riders on track or experiencing a slide is now so much easier to deal with because of the visual skill used. Muppett
  4. You can see why he's the boss worldwide can't ya.. Valid points, some of which I didn't consider. Bullet I still tend to agree with Bullet. If the travel isn't a problem, like in the UK, I reckon to get more out of 2 separate days, with the opportunity to think it through and practice in between. I certainly would want to do levels 2 & 3 in succession because level 3 is so physically tiring if you're as unfit as me. Get down that gym now CBRkid. Muppett
  5. Unfortunately you're just going to have to book it and hope - because if you thought level 1 was good you'll be amazed at what level 2 offers. The rain? I don't think anyone likes riding in the rain, but after a full day of it I'm usually asking myself what all the fuss was about. My perfect track day at a new track is a wet morning, drying in the afternoon. Muppett
  6. A ha! The bat helps. (I've had a lot of difficulty in working out what my question is and it might be a complete nonsense) When you want the bat to lean to the left, you can move the bottom a bit and wait for it to fall into position; or you can move it a lot, so it's at the angle you want straight away. Similarly you can steer so that your wheels stay in much the same line, while your bike and body lean over Or you can somehow move your wheels while your bike and body remain on the line. (Now I don't want to get into quick turning because I think I understand that, it helps a lot, but it's not the point I'm trying to get at). In the Moto GP at the weekend it was noticeable that the Honda's, after woofing past everyone on the inside down the straight, would use this to get back on line, in front of the overtaken rider, as they turned in. In fact you see it a lot after overtakes. I suppose I'm trying to find the best way to get a heavy bike through esses and to understand what I'm actually doing to bring it about. Thanks for everybody's comments. Muppett
  7. Ok. You've answered the question that I asked. But it wasn't exactly what was on my mind. I'll try this. When going through a left / right esses or schicane, can it be useful to flick the bike around the first part of the turn to get a straighter line or exit through the second apex? Either way, what is it that we do in that kind of situation to 'flick the bike'? As I see it, I'm not just using counter steering while changing from left to right, I'm deliberately trying to move the wheels? Muppett
  8. How can there be a 'wrong' way to steer? And if there is, can it be used to advantage in some cornering situations? TOTW II - chapter 19 - page 84 talks about 'pushing the bike underneath you motocross style' as being the wrong way to steer on the road / track. It seems to me to be useful in esses, particularly on a sports tourer. Muppett
  9. .... there is little reason to look at ANYTHING closer than 10 bike lengths in front of the motorcycle when riding at 40 mph or faster. Crash, Taking that thought to an extreme, how would it feel riding at 40 mph with some kind of optical device that meant you couldn't see anything closer than 10 bike lengths? I'm not sure I'd want to try that! Muppet
  10. I agree with all that's been said but do think we can apply what we learn on the track to the street. I only 'found' tracks about 5 years ago after a lot of years street riding. I wanted to improve what I did on the road and boy did CSB stuff help. For example, we go deeper into corners on the track to straighten and maintain speed like Eirik said. I think we go deeper into most corners on the road for view. So we have similar problems in each and for me quicker turns combined with a 2 step, putting your rough turn point onto peripheral vision, has made a big improvement. Muppett
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