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Everything posted by aredman

  1. Cobie I think this could be a good thing, the confusion around power commanders and whats the best map to use etc etc would be justification enough. But if he is an engineer that understands the physics of motorcycling as well then all the better. Here is a question and will be relevant in a couple of months when I upgrade to a bike from this century After installing a PCV and Autotune can I just down download a map from Dynojet, turn on the Autotune and I will get the absolute maximum from my bike? Not just in outright HP but in smoothness in throttle response and power delivery through the whole curve??? Or should I have a custom map done, then run the Autotune along side to assist in the very minor detail to assist with small changes on race day? This is something that seems to have varying responses to from the various different riders, mechanics/tuners, etc, etc so some more clarification would be good. Or Old school Carby Dynojet Kit, my bike is very lean at idle but perfect up the top of the range... Na just joking, I wont finish that
  2. What about Kevlar??? Not encased in the fibreglass resin like a normal bike part but attached to the inside of the fairing using double sided tape or an adhesive of some sort??? It is used in mechanics gloves so they can handle hot parts straight off cars and bikes (i.e. pit lane) and other heat affected applications so must have decent heat resistant properties. I have tried wrapping the exhaust and using the ali heat shield on the fairing (both at the same time) and it helped but it still didn't work 100%.
  3. Couple of observations (probably take em with a grain of salt): Just going to focus on a couple of turns, the last turn onto the straight and the turn at the end of the straight. 1. Your drive onto the main straight looks awesome, throttle roll on consistent, smooth and certainly getting plenty of power. 2. Your entry into turn 1 (assumption) off the end of the long straight, I get the impression that you are charging the turn. Evidenced by extremely hard braking right at your turn in point. Thus overdoing it and then feeling like you need to get on the power sooner and harder. This is one point where I saw a few "faster" riders passing you on the exit here. Remember the no brakes drill? 3. Your line on the couple of laps where you weren't obstructed on the entry into the first turn was much tighter, turning in from about the middle of the road. I am not sure if this was for a reason, bumps on the outside, another rider etc but I feel if you can, maybe a wider line to open the turn up a bit more will allow a bit more corner speed and thus less need for crazy acceleration to catch up. 4. This is where I am totally out of my depth but you say you are running in race mode, best power, least interferance from TC. I have noted that a few guys on the forum are running in Sport mode (?) as they feel it is easier/more comfortable for various reasons. Could you not try running in a lower mode to start testing the limits of traction with the knowledge that you have the TC to help out? Once these lower modes are holding you back you can step it up? Not sure about this one, I ride carby bikes Also how is your vision, i.e. 3 step, wide view? Maybe try and revisit these as well to help give you the confidence to get on the power a bit sooner and a bit harder? Tell me to get out of your thread if I am pushing it in the wrong direction, just my observations.
  4. Here is a video of adding throttle and lean angle at the same time... No need to watch the whole thing, just the first 20 seconds (in fact I recommend not watching after the 20 second mark, if you watch past you will see why). Also has some bad language so dont watch if easily offended. Observations/Comments???? PS: No this is not me or anyone I would care to ride or associate with, just a clip I picked up off another forum.
  5. Yeah, your pressures are in the ball park (very close I would say without looking at the tyres). Suspension set up would have a greater impact on wear indicators than pressure when you are that close anyway. I know the Aussie CSS adjusts all student bikes (running road tyres) to 30/30 at the start of the day to assist all comers to get a good base line. Track pressures are always much lower than the road. It all based around tyre temp, rising pressure as they warm up and the less rigidity needed to counteract pot holes and weight. When questioning everything, experiment with it to get a feel for what it feels like, thats what I like to do
  6. That is a brilliant vid, thanks for posting Here is the second half... http://www.youtube.com/user/irishracermagazine#p/u/2/DFUYIH2Ttzk
  7. If your happy, why change??? All sounds reasonable enough, pretty good starting pressures for a track and that particular tyre, also you are the one riding it so you have to be comfortable. If you were way out of the ball park then it might be a different story, but all sounds fine to me. Having said that, now that you have a base setting and know what it feels like you could start experimenting to see what effect the changes have on the bike. Only talking a couple of PSI either way, just to start to get a feel for what too soft feels like or too hard and the effects on the tyre (what tearing happens etc). If you do try to experiment, just remember 10/10ths is not the way to learn, back it off a touch to take in the different sensations. PS: I use bridgys on my track bike too...
  8. Hey Cobie, I have a story relevant to this. It was approx 12 months ago, I had just started riding track days and had completed 2 levels at the school. Anyway, I was starting to think about racing so I took a journey down to Winton (in the middle of nowhere in Victoria Australia) to watch some club racing. While there I took particular interest in the 600 races as this was the class I would be racing in when I got up the courage. Well let me tell you it was pouring rain and watching these guys go round did not help my confidence level to go racing!! Anyway, number 76, just kept flying around running rings around everyone, applying the hook turns and pick up drill, consistent throttle control (not visibly sliding, just awesome drive out of the turns). I had no idea who it was or who he worked for but I was thinking this guy has been to school . It wasn't until the first race that I noticed something written on the back of his leathers, "California Superbike School", obviously intrigued I went for a walk at lunch to find Mr Adam Raffe (you might know him) kicking around in the pits, talking technique with other riders. Needless to say, my answer is the Aussie CRC for his ability to apply the techniques that you can see and hear, namely BP and TC. Far and away the best exponent I have seen in the flesh of the techniques, not the quickest rider I have seen but he is definitely quick enough to be giving the guys and girls a run for their money in the Aussie Superstock Champs this year. Other notables I have seen racing this year (same principles), Kris Parnell (another Aussie Coach), Chas Hern, Christian Casella and Corey Snowsill (16 year old racing a CBR1000 )
  9. Welcome, the school did exactly the same thing to me!! Rarely ride on the road anymore. Enjoy your riding and be sure to post up any questions, experiences and photos Cheers
  10. It doesn't really matter what revs your bike is doing before starting the throttle roll on, just match the gear to the speed and what you are trying to achieve. Higher revs generally if you are pushing, on the track my bike won't drop below 8,000 but on the road I would be lucky to hit that (especially around town). Inline fours are really quite peaky in their power and to get the most out of them need to be higher in the rev range. Just remember the throttle control rule still applies in any cornering situation. As for the jerkyness of the throttle, how much free play on the throttle do you have? i.e. with the engine off, how far does the throttle turn before you feel resistance? It may be that you feel that you are twisting on the throttle but really not in terms of opening the throttle bodies, I test rode a new bike the other day and it took quite a bit to get used the change (it was really loose but my bikes are set up quite tight and responsive). Other than that could be any number of issues with mapping/injection/etc.
  11. Stoner has their mark this year, not great for the racing but good for him, as much as I love watching him sliding the bike around you don't get to watch him when he pisses off and the coverage goes to the battles down the field. The IOM TT is definitely on the list, those guys are insane!!! My mechanic went over this year, can't wait for him to get back so I can get some of the stories. Time for me to shut up and go find MORE PICS....
  12. The bike runs wider than intended, causing the rider to miss their intended apex, provided they keep it up it in the process.
  13. The Superbike school is not a racing school, it is a CORNERING school (as deceptive as the name is) and SRs apply to all riding situations as do the vision (and all other) techniques they teach. IMHO, Vision is the number one most important thing to controlling SRs. Keeping a steady, controlled view of where you are going is the only way to get there fast and in control. Cobie: Their concentration and mental skills to ignore the distractions is amazing and that fact speaks volumes for this.
  14. I do but for training/fitness purposes only (Need to drop weight to go racing!!!). No competition stuff.
  15. I'll admit it... I have done it a couple of times resulting in the rear end stepping out, 1 low side because I had no idea it was happening until too late (1st major slide at substantial lean angle and chasing a much faster guy). Second time much better result because I was able to identify the problem earlier. For me, too soon is adding throttle before reaching max lean angle. How does that throttle control rule go again??? My biggest cause, wiping off to much speed on entry (i.e. charging) and then trying to rectify the problem with another mistake
  16. Yep, love em, keep em coming!!! Guy Martin's bike, WOW, I knew he crashed but that is a big fire ball!!!
  17. A thread to show off general racing pics you have found I'll start (I reckon this is awesome) Credit where it is due, image from motomatters.com
  18. Yeah using just the phone has its limitations but you can pick up GPS Bluetooth devices with 10Hz refresh rate ($100 Aussie/US), which I believe is more than accurate enough before getting in and spending big dollars. With the S60 software, they also have the Windows version for the Blackberry and other phones. But now Nokia is changing so is Race Chrono, Race Chrono is going to target Android for those with that software. No idea on when that is being released though. Was just putting it out there as another solution for those new to all things GPS (like me, I just bought a new phone a couple of weeks ago for the first time in 6 years!!!).
  19. Check out www.racechrono.com Download it into your phone and away you go. They have even now up'd the capabilities to not only log GPS coordinates but with a bluetooth connection to a OBD Key on newer bikes (not mine ) you can log what your bike is doing too (i.e. engine revs etc). You can download tracks/edit tracks/create your own, think you can have as many sectors as you like and you can plot your laps over on Google Earth so you can see where you have gone on the track (different lines). It also has performace testing modules on there. It also works with a few other programs for analysis but I haven't used them yet. I haven't used it yet on track but know quite a few that do and they quite like it. If you like it so much, get it in a dedicated lap timer here www.racechrono.com.au Go get your nerd on
  20. So, any grip is like a screwdriver? Didn't think I was real clear (was at work with brain fade), try again: Standard grip, the way you grab the bars when you are 3 and told to hold on to your first trike. Fingers wrap around the bar at a 90degree angle to the bar/throttle. I dont think there is any confusion on this, I have never seen any newbie grab the bars any other way. Screwdriver grip, when you are trying to initially undo the screw not when you are holding the screwdriver at the end just twisting the thread out. Think, you are applying the pressure into the screw and twisting, so your hand, wrist and arm become a continuation of the screwdriver (almost carry on in the same plain, slight angle obviously because your wrist doesnt contort that far). Apply this to holding onto the throttle, move your hand around to point your fingers more towards the kill switch, fingers being closer to running parrallel to with the bar/throttle. Lets say your fingers are now on a 45degree angle to the bar holding it more like a screwdriver. Does this make any more sense??? I will post up picks of my understanding tonight. This grip automatically allows a lighter grip on the bars because it takes the 2 main gripping fingers and moves them so they cant grip as well as before. It also allows for better feel on the twist of the throttle as Jason explained. It is not going to be to everyones liking and can take some getting using to. Remember the purpose of this is to stay light on the bars and stay relaxed, it is an optional extra and just a method that some people find easier to assist with this. Footnote: I only apply this technique in the turns after braking (usually trail) as I only have small weak hands (many cricket and boxing injuries) and I adjust my grip after braking as I am moving my upper body into the corner but I can see an application for this all the time if so desired.
  21. In a straight line, hold it how it is comfortable, grip and rip (but stay loose unless you feel a need for a tank slapper to wake you up). In the corner (right hander, right hand) adjusting your grip to hold the throttle more like a screwdriver (fingers pointing more toward the kill switch instead of wrapping straight around, like a screwdriver) can allow you to move your upper body into the corner for hook turns etc more effectively whilst staying very light on the bars. Same applies on the left hand for left handers. If you watch the MotoGP guys their hands they never stay static on the bars, they are constantly adjusting their grip for whatever they are trying to achieve at that point, some good camera angles have been shown of Casey and Jorge in the past year showing this. Refer to Bullet's recent post regarding number of fingers on braking, whilst his hang up was on fingers in braking it still refers to adjusting his grip on the throttle for the turn.
  22. Hi Bullet, Thanks for posting this up, I know I am slow in the uptake but I wanted to test a couple of things before I posted anything. I have been having a problem with being able to twist the throttle per the throttle control rule and get into the hook turn position on right handers and I was putting it down to the throttle action on the bike being to long (to the point that i was going to modify it, it is standard 1/4 turn), but with your post regarding the screwdriver grip it got me thinking. Basically before a couple of recent test days where I tested a the screwdriver grip, different braking methods and clip on positions, I found I could move my hand to suit the hook turn position but by the time I got to WOT my wrist was to far contorted and I needed readjust my hand by letting the throttle off, no good, or I could set my hand for the straight after braking but this meant holding myself up midturn and I couldn't get into the turn where I wanted and needed to be (this was the usual choice). In the end, I was hanging on way to tight and things really started getting messy. Note that on left turns I feel much better and corner much quicker (probably not true but thats what I feel). So what I tried (note the days are not consecutive and are at different tracks): Day 1: After reading your post regarding the screwdriver grip and not sure on what I was actually doing i decided to focus on it. First up I found the above so decided to back it off a bit and complete my braking earlier in the turn giving me the chance to readjust my hand to allow me to get into a position to get my upper body into the turn and still get on the throttle. It was working quite well but I was still not 100% satisfied however as I wanted to work at some vision skills as well I left it at that, happy with an improvement but still not 100%. Day 2: This is where it started getting interesting (for me anyway). After being left feeling short on Day 1 (with alot more than just hook turns) I was looking for more. So I starting looking at the differences between my bike (1994 YZF600) and the more modern bike (the schools GSXR-600). Biggest relevant difference for this topic, seating position, my bike is much more upright with the bars sitting slightly above the tank. Investigation found out I could drop the clip ons below the triple clamp, resulting in a more agressive riding position (bars about 1.5-2inches lower). Long story short, BINGO, after a couple of sessions getting used to it and dealing with an arm issue I was having (probably need a different thread for this one but very much to do with braking and which fingers), I found myself able to move my body into the corners more, rest my outside elbow on the tank (before it sat to high), get the screwdriver grip on the throttle I wanted and all in all much looser on the bars. No photos for this day yet, hope they get a good one (helps my ego ) So, after that long story I just wanted to thank you Bullet for drawing this solution (screwdriver grip) to my attention as it was that catalyst that sent me off on another great learning curve (which I haven't described well but hey, you don't want to read all that anyway). It also pointed out that I can still get more out of this bike yet!! To the Aussie coaches (Sir CRC, Jason, Julian), when are the dates going to be released for the next half of the year? Keen as mustard to get sorted on Level 3 properly (the DVD and books help but not as much as proper coaching!!). Also bringing a few others along for their first taste with Level 1. Nothing like learning how to do things properly!!!!
  23. Best dual purpose (Dry v Wet) tyre I have used. Dont stress about the weather or your tyres you will be fine, just focus on yourself and your learning....
  24. Gunna throw up another suggestion which is an issue for me on the headaches; NOISE!!! I wear earplugs whilst riding but often will even wear them whilst on the pit wall watching or just sitting around in the pits. Bikes are noisy and they affect our senses (in both good and bad ways) and I know for a fact that I get headaches because of it. Do I love the noise bikes make? Absolutely, but sometimes it gets a bit much over the course of a day so be sure to look after your ears and head. Also agree on the hydration as per above. I know nothing about suspension so no comment. Engine oil, I use a product manufactured for cars but I contacted the manufacturer to discuss and read the fine print, "Suitable for motorcycles with wet clutches". Suggestion, contact the manufacturer, they won't (shouldn't) recommend something they don't see as being suitable for fear of the liability (get it in writing). My reason for using this oil - I can get 20litres of it for the price of 4litres of mid range motorcycle specific oil (which has just had the label changed anyway). Cheers Ash
  25. 2 fingers, index and middle. I do have an issue with not getting my upper body leaning in on right handers but I think that has more to do with trying to get on the throttle. Level 3 for me!!! Interested to find out what this new discovery is...
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