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aredman

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Posts posted by aredman

  1. Cobie I think this could be a good thing, the confusion around power commanders and whats the best map to use etc etc would be justification enough. But if he is an engineer that understands the physics of motorcycling as well then all the better.

     

    Here is a question and will be relevant in a couple of months when I upgrade to a bike from this century :)

     

    After installing a PCV and Autotune can I just down download a map from Dynojet, turn on the Autotune and I will get the absolute maximum from my bike? Not just in outright HP but in smoothness in throttle response and power delivery through the whole curve??? Or should I have a custom map done, then run the Autotune along side to assist in the very minor detail to assist with small changes on race day?

     

    This is something that seems to have varying responses to from the various different riders, mechanics/tuners, etc, etc so some more clarification would be good.

     

    Or Old school Carby Dynojet Kit, my bike is very lean at idle but perfect up the top of the range... Na just joking, I wont finish that :P

  2. Here is a video of adding throttle and lean angle at the same time...

     

     

    No need to watch the whole thing, just the first 20 seconds (in fact I recommend not watching after the 20 second mark, if you watch past you will see why). Also has some bad language so dont watch if easily offended.

     

    Observations/Comments????

     

     

     

    PS: No this is not me or anyone I would care to ride or associate with, just a clip I picked up off another forum.

  3. I'll admit it...

     

    I have done it a couple of times resulting in the rear end stepping out, 1 low side because I had no idea it was happening until too late (1st major slide at substantial lean angle and chasing a much faster guy). Second time much better result because I was able to identify the problem earlier.

     

    For me, too soon is adding throttle before reaching max lean angle. How does that throttle control rule go again???

     

    My biggest cause, wiping off to much speed on entry (i.e. charging) and then trying to rectify the problem with another mistake :angry:

  4. In the corner (right hander, right hand) adjusting your grip to hold the throttle more like a screwdriver (fingers pointing more toward the kill switch instead of wrapping straight around, like a screwdriver)

     

    So, any grip is like a screwdriver? :blink:

     

    Didn't think I was real clear (was at work with brain fade), try again:

     

    Standard grip, the way you grab the bars when you are 3 and told to hold on to your first trike. Fingers wrap around the bar at a 90degree angle to the bar/throttle. I dont think there is any confusion on this, I have never seen any newbie grab the bars any other way.

     

    Screwdriver grip, when you are trying to initially undo the screw not when you are holding the screwdriver at the end just twisting the thread out. Think, you are applying the pressure into the screw and twisting, so your hand, wrist and arm become a continuation of the screwdriver (almost carry on in the same plain, slight angle obviously because your wrist doesnt contort that far). Apply this to holding onto the throttle, move your hand around to point your fingers more towards the kill switch, fingers being closer to running parrallel to with the bar/throttle. Lets say your fingers are now on a 45degree angle to the bar holding it more like a screwdriver. Does this make any more sense??? I will post up picks of my understanding tonight.

     

    This grip automatically allows a lighter grip on the bars because it takes the 2 main gripping fingers and moves them so they cant grip as well as before. It also allows for better feel on the twist of the throttle as Jason explained.

     

    It is not going to be to everyones liking and can take some getting using to.

     

    Remember the purpose of this is to stay light on the bars and stay relaxed, it is an optional extra and just a method that some people find easier to assist with this.

     

     

    Footnote: I only apply this technique in the turns after braking (usually trail) as I only have small weak hands (many cricket and boxing injuries) and I adjust my grip after braking as I am moving my upper body into the corner but I can see an application for this all the time if so desired.

  5. In a straight line, hold it how it is comfortable, grip and rip (but stay loose unless you feel a need for a tank slapper to wake you up). In the corner (right hander, right hand) adjusting your grip to hold the throttle more like a screwdriver (fingers pointing more toward the kill switch instead of wrapping straight around, like a screwdriver) can allow you to move your upper body into the corner for hook turns etc more effectively whilst staying very light on the bars. Same applies on the left hand for left handers.

     

    If you watch the MotoGP guys their hands they never stay static on the bars, they are constantly adjusting their grip for whatever they are trying to achieve at that point, some good camera angles have been shown of Casey and Jorge in the past year showing this.

     

    Refer to Bullet's recent post regarding number of fingers on braking, whilst his hang up was on fingers in braking it still refers to adjusting his grip on the throttle for the turn.

  6. I'm not sure if this would work in your van but I have thought this Tyre Down product is a stellar idea for trailers. There's a review at:

     

    http://www.webbikewo...er-tie-down.htm

     

    And here's their website:

     

    http://www.kyaracing.com.au/

     

    Has anyone here used this or anything like it? It would seem to alleviate some of the pressure needed on the fork seals in more traditional tie down options.

     

    Yep, bought mine from them. Fantastic, stop the front wheel from turning side to side and bouncing (i.e. 2 short ropes/tie downs), strap on the back and your set, 5mins tops.

     

    Note they can get caught up on exhausts, huggers and brakes (all usually can be worked around) and can leave marks on soft tyres (no big deal, the tyres reform). Someone also makes a strap version of it which I have heard good things about (have struggled to find it though).

     

    Now, I use a trailer but many people have used it in a van (maybe not the tiny one in the link though :) ).

     

    dsc01933p.jpg

     

    dsc01934qh.jpg

     

    dsc01935f.jpg

  7. Nothing wrong with a small budget for a bike, I bought my YZF600 (1994) for 2k, spent another 1-1.5k on "upgrades" like track fairings and suspension. Best thing I could have done, it is strong motor wise, easily tuned/serviced and to find parts but most importantly not to powerful to overwhelm me whilst I learn the art of track riding.

     

    My only advice, go with what "feels" right for you but was popular for its time, if you like twins then that is a good starting point but how popular are they? If they were more popular the more readily available second hand parts should be (I know I need them due to me "learning" smile.gif ).

     

    The 06 sounds good but why is it so cheap compared to the 99? Always wary!

     

    Which ever way you go there will be plenty of competition for you out there in the various race categories.

     

    Not sure I have help any but most importantly enjoy it once you decide!!!

  8. Hi guys,

     

    I was once told by my suspension guy that there is nothing worse that I can do to my suspension than to compress it using rachet straps for a multiple of reasons, not just seals, had something to do with angles of straps, suspension still trying to work whilst on the trailer, pressure on clamps/bars etc, etc. All I want is to get the suspension working properly whilst I am riding, I don't want to have to worry about if I am damaging it when I travelling to and from the track as well. Only so much brain capacity for suspension related issues!!!

     

    Hence, this is where I bought my Tyredown from http://www.kyaracing.com.au/index.htm, couple of US dealers listed there too.

     

    Just my 2 cents

     

    Cheers

     

    Ash

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