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About lukem

  • Rank
    Cornering Apprentice
  • Birthday 11/16/1979

Previous Fields

  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
  • Interests
    Bike racing and scuba diving
  1. I have heard this piece of advice a lot, normally geared towards riders new to the track that are using the rear brake without realizing how light the rear wheel gets under hard braking, and thus are in danger of highsiding the bike. Once a rider understands the dynamics of the rear wheel and weight transfer, it certainly seems possible that a rider could use the rear brake judiciously to break the rear tire loose and let it come around, and I have in fact heard of riders that do this - even one that had a hand lever installed to control the rear brake more accurately. A few years ago
  2. It's not a race track; it is a road course, like the Isle of Man
  3. Everything...I wish I had learnt to ride at waaaaay earlier age. Way I see it, if my parents has bought me a little trail bike around age 4, you lot would be watching me in Superbikes! Haha. Ok, maybe not. Seriously, though, I feel there is a certain feeling of invincibility that you lose the older you get,
  4. I have pretty much the same setup! 1 book has tech info. All the clearances from my engine (I since I built it!), carb jetting, suspension settings etc. The other has my race timesheets, track maps and riding notes/reference points. I also keep info on tyre pressures, race day weather and temps in here. I'd be lost without either, but both for different reasons Cheers Luke
  5. which do you think is most important? Fastest in the middle of the turn? Or fastest at the end of the next straight? thinking about these points, is it possible to define? Bullet I would think more speed through the turn is most important, you can always brake a little deeper at the end of the next straight instead of relying on how much ground to make up pinning the throttle on the drive out of the corner? I think the other factor would be the layout of the track, if you have really tight turns you can only carry so much speed before running wide or off track so
  6. Haha - sorry dude, that wasn't what I was getting at (I don't buy into that wimpy rider thing either). What I mean is probably best summed up by my old suspension tuner. "Looking at the the tyres as a gauge for riding is as informative as looking at the stain on the bedsheets to find out how good the night before was!" I have pushed the front many times and have still not worn to the edge. Even when I lost the front from leaning to far, have I not worn to them to the edge!
  7. I think looking at chicken strips as a gauge of how much grip you have is a bad idea and will probably end in tears! In all my time riding/racing bikes, I have never worn a front tyre all the way to the edge. I just don't think the profile allows it.
  8. Yep! Not sure what other brands are out there, but I bought Capit which are a fairly renowned Italian make. They have been faultless for the past 3 years, whereas I know other guys using cheaper warmers have had issues with them shorting out or catching fire. Chicken Hawk is another brand which I have heard good things about and they are US made, but I have no personal experience of them.
  9. A tyre warmed by a warmer is still not as hot as one that has been ridden on for a couple of laps. Warmers just avoid having to start on cold tyres. In a 6-8 lap sprint, you can't spend 2 laps warming your tyres. I usually ride the warm up lap fairly fast to keep heat in the tyres as well! I know at my local track we have a lot of faster, hard driving right turns and only 2 slowish left turns. You have to be a little more careful on the lefts and the first one has claimed a lot of scalps of riders on the opening lap. Bottom line is ride to the conditions which doesn't just mean the trac
  10. My Pirelli slicks have wear indicators. I am pretty sure all slicks do. As an aside, with proper racing tyres, you have to work them hard to get them into a temperature zone where they will give maximum grip. If you don't ride fast enough then you may find they will over less grip than a tyre designed to work at lower temperatures. That's why racing tyres are generally not recommended for the road - you simply can't work them hard enough! Tyre warmers will just help get the tyre up to temperature from the moment the flag drops (in a race). After a lap or two, the temperature of the tyr
  11. 1- Yes - On all of my race bikes 2- Original style Stomp grip. Liked it the first time and haven't seen a need to change in the past 4 bikes! Only wish they supplied older bikes as my current bike has to use cut generic pads and they have started to lift a bit where I made the cuts. I also like them because they are clear (unlike techspecs), so keep the look of the original bike (which I think is important in classic/post classic racing) 3- I use them predominately for gripping the tank while braking hard and they work very well. 4- N/A
  12. Start picking the bike into the slide and check the throttle? (i.e don't continue to roll on, but don't roll off either) That or turn on the TC (jk)
  13. I don't disagree with that, but it's not why he crashed. He chops the throttle at the start of the corner, but then starts rolling on and is doing so when the back goes. If you watch the horizon, it continues to tilt right up to when the back lets go. He is doing the classic "rolling on + adding lean angle"
  14. I agree with you on this, hence my comment about "using grip to go as fast as possible around the track". I consider quick-turn to be turning as quickly as you can under ideal conditions. Whenever you cannot use all effort to turn but must hold back because you're braking or the road is slippery, you are no longer quick-turning. Instead, you are modulating. AH! Now this is getting very interesting. That is two riders that feel that "steer as quickly as possible in every turn" does NOT define "quick turn". I took that from Twist II, I feel that it does define it. But, I'm absolutely open
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