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ktk_ace

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Everything posted by ktk_ace

  1. Yamaha's (not a fan but hey, gotta give them pts for upping the ante) XSR 900 has alo of electronic and mechanical goodies too TCS (VERY BASIC , 2 modes plus off, ripped off the old r1 parts bin) ABS slipper+ASSIST clutch 450 pounds fueled. ....under 10K USD I agree on RChase's points , 600cc's are not financially viable for all pts, power , r&d , sales , weight and etc etc PS. BMW is partnering with TVR india for the G310 series single cylinder bike.
  2. Im 5 foot 7 and the 2013 R1 gives me pain EVERYWHERE when i try to saddle it . the ZX10R on the other hand i could sleep in it... You gotta try the bikes yourself man... One man's mean might be another's poison. PS. the 2014 S1000RR is somewhere in btw.
  3. Aside from coolant level and engine modes as prescribed above , I'd flush the coolant and replace it with fresh premixed 30/70 coolant (ie collant is only 30% , 70% is water) if your area doesnt drop to freezing during winter. Shop had a 6r that has foamy coolant due to anti-foam additives being used up; it runs much cooler in traffic with fresh cololant. also, redline water wetter as an additive to the coolant for 3-7 deg f drop. (i beleive its 10ML per L of coolant)
  4. I heard IMU's are going at 100 USD a unit but ditto on how to connect to mostly analogue bikes... (the only thing digital on my bigger bike is the fueling, its a fuel injected bike, no electronic gizmos maybe ceopt for the LCD fuel gauge on the speedo , my smaller bike is carburated ) any on the matter of data logging, if you guys are really into the kindergarden grade type (read, near ghetto) there is an app for that: Pirelli Diablo Superbiker Remember to set your bike tupe up and the software will do the rest for you PS. how do i attach images ? this forum really needs a better native image uploader imho - -
  5. I got a sport touring bike a month ago (2006 Z750S) and IMHO you NEED tank pads and if your budget allows, redone seat covers with texturized rubber cloth for more friction to hold yourself into the bike properly when the pace gets fast. before I got those 2 (my seat is already customized thanks to the prevous owner) I was like accelerating from 15-50 MPH from 2nd gear and my butt is literally pressed against the back of the seat. Deceleration means Im ramming my family jewels against the fuel tank thanks to the bone stock wide and slippery tank !! (OUCH!! brings new meaning to blue balls and squished sausage lol) After I got the tank pads (DIY FTW) , had no problem keeping up with the litre bikes (in my bike friends group) on the mountain twisties~ when your lower body is stable , your upper body can relax much more and sensitivity goes up quite some notches.
  6. I just got some theory that I am going to try on my bigger 2nd hand bike soon: Rake / trail + body size in relation to aerodynamic steering IMHO Rake trail part: My Kawasaki bike came with a lowered triple clamp and hence the figures are more like 24 degrees of rake and less than 100mm of trail (stock is 24.5 / 105mm) I can easily oversteer the bike and I have to use the body to actually stabilize the bike into and out of corners . > that might explain the body steer as there is already too much oversteer present hence using the body to "steer" the bike becomes a " primary " way to steer. compared to the small bike have which has tonnes more rake (at least 25 degrees) , countersteering works better on that small bike as i need more effort to break the gyro forces for the bike to turn. The small bike is aready set up to be too oversteering on stock settings hence i set it up to slightly understeer at the front as the short wheelbase will make up for it once i commit to the corner after CS-ing Aerodynamic steer part: Im 175cm 75Kg with gear , anything higher than 60MPH and my helmet will try to rip my head off if i dont stay tucked in the bubble that brings to upright aero braking ; I can use my chest and arm area to effectifly act as a faux parachute to "pull" the bike's front up during heavy breaking (yes my conv forks rebound damping sucks , its a street bike tuned for comfort first) Arms are STILL limb and fingers on the front brake , I created the front "pulling" effect using tank pads and clamping on the gas tank. and also use the air resistance to help slow the bike down who knows how much ? hanging off also creates a faux stepping out effect on the rear wheel (i was hanging off at 40-50mph and the rear wheel ran over a leaf, instant slide for 0.5 of a second, good throttle control prevented a disaster!) As for hotfoot , she has much less area for aero braking / stabilization / aero "rear steer" Simon Crafar is a HUGE guy on a small bike relatively speaking -(he has to brake VERY VERY LATE compared to smaller riders to gain any sort to competetive advantage , more of a "block" rider) hence the "body" steer parts... imho its more like body aero assist to me and im trying to integrate it into my cornering skill toolbox
  7. You would be wise to consult with the local mountain carvers to see what type of bikes rock on the uphills and downhills... It could be 2 very differnt bikes. I had the opportunity to go mountain carving with a R1 and a GSX-R on my local mountain roads ; barring rider skill, the veteran who was on the GSX-0R 1000 in our group says he goes the fastest on a certain UPHILL stretch with a CB400 spec2 on 2 bike virtues: 1) shorter wheelbase as there are ALOT of low to medium speed corners , less body positioning and countersteering needed . Less of the 10$ of attention needed. 2) Higher torque range/plateau = much less gear shifts esp coming out of uphill corners; he can floor it coming out of corners and get ready for the next corner without a gear shift again , Less of the 10$ of attention needed. The S1000RR is built for racetracks with medium/high speed hence the low end torque would be relatively "weak" for a hill climbing task without some small hardware mods. The longer wheelbase and swingarm that is designed for high speed will also "get in the way" at places with alot of low to medium speed corners too in the form of much more effort in terms of body position and massively more lean angle on public roads ... You could drop a teeth on the front sproket or go up 2 teeth in the rear or so I've heard to squeeze more torque out .
  8. Nice writeup! Some links of mine: http://www.risingsuncycles.com/bikespecific/suspension.htm > HRC stuff!! http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm> not sure if its 100% correct in there and preload as a % of your total fork travel (I'll just keep it on the front side as the rear... too many varieties and I dont have the luxury of a bike with rear linkage suspension so to speak) "A general rule of thumb is that the front sag should be about 30-35% of travel, while the back should be at about 25%. That works out to be 30-40mm at the front and 25-35mm at the back, for most bikes." taken from here: http://www.promecha.com.au/sag_preload.htm
  9. X2 I would also like to add that some bikes are naturally more biased towards CSS ciriculum , namely BMW and kawasaki bikes (stock ones that is) as their forward and aft balance are more 50:50 + longer wheelbase so to speak Do the midcorner "front part hangout" with a Suzuki and you risk oversteering and upsetting the rear. (Suzuki GSXRs are more 55:45 + a far shorter wheelbase in comparison in simple english ) longer wheelbase = more stable shorter wheelbase = more nimble wheelbase lengths ZX10R 2015 1,425 mm GSXR 1000 2015 1,405 mm S1000RR 1432MM (i heard its even longer for the 2015 model) PS. WSBK would be much more relevant due to the virtue that all aids and modifications on paper should be avaliable to the public (but that is not always the case, eg custom frame rigidity)
  10. Nice article! Quite well written to the point that i have nothing to add imho
  11. like clockwork , wonder how many hours they have to put in to achieve such precision and consistency! its like running a preprogrammed macro 20+ times over a maze with other unexpected factors chipping in (eg a race)
  12. err... $10 bucks of attention? its management imho
  13. If i were you 1) change brake pads that deliver confidence and are more linear , linear pads make trail braking much more manageable (ie eats much less of your $10 worth of attention) 2.1) tune if possible the engine braking characteristics to be a bit more aggressive IF the suspension is really dialed in 2.2) add more rebound damping if the suspension isnt dialed in properly
  14. I'd say adrenaline is only part of the equation and only after I beat someone by seconds does the adrenaline kick comes in (in FPS terms: DOMINATING!!!). The most "fun" part for me is using all my skills at hardware tuning and software (riding sklls) to beat/ match a richer opponent in terms of gear (as in I have total 200 USD front/rear sus job, he has a 3-900 dollar race grade suspension package).
  15. In the land of racing technology , vague advice is... something i dont use at all. yup, vague advice, down the trash can it goes.
  16. I wont say its " little " action > reaction , the car didnt even budge , all the force was transmitted back to the rider a kick easily generates force in the lower 4 figures newton wise.
  17. Im sure the fat tires with the racing compounds help you get (mathematically) closer to the tarmac too... now whos got a degree in engineering for a diagram?
  18. Do tell me if you find the drill for beer!
  19. That explains alot in conjunction with the newest code break : http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/less-more-visual-experiment-code-break No wonder the faster I go , the more everytime I commit a mistake , the more of the $10 of attention the mistake eat into. 0.7s is alot , I dont look at the speedo anymore when im into a corner where i think it is high speed ; more time to buffer against mistakes and unexpected things i guess.
  20. I would say on a "frameless" bike like the Ducati 1199R... IMHO it takes much more active management(TC + body postioning ) to stabilize the bike I know you like Duhan's style of hanging off by the arse but Duhan has Honda's perimeter frame + one crazy low COG + light bike during the GP500 days. Torque buildup was also much smaller on GP500 bikes compared to newer 4 stroke bikes of the 999CC MOTOGP era. now factor in that Mr Bayliss rides like duhan ... BUT with a frameless bike (lighter but less forgiving) , higher AND more rearwards COG (V configuration 4 stroke), crazy torque delivery (V2 desmo) and a single sided swingarm ( direct opposite of a perimeter based gullwing swingarm) you get a recipe for wiggles , shakes and disaster (the 1199R is like a loaded spring with no energy to dissipate but snap back unlike a u shaped perimeter frame where the energy can oscillate and dissipate without noticeable effect on the stability) when pushed over the limit. The Germans aint dumb you see, they dissected Japan's big 4 and learned to best or even beat them in those areas that they excel. Even Aprilia went for the perimeter frame + 2 sided swingarm approach. Ducati's motoGP effort... perimeter frame + 2 sided swingarm should tell alot on what works and dont on the top level of racing in the world... just my 2c
  21. I would also love to see how aerodynamically advantageous the hook turn technique would be at different speeds/bigger/smaller riders but that requires wind tunnel testing facilities... oh well at least it works for me
  22. reminds me of this XD https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmaEEiF7N28 maybe all the small kinks and wobbles the bike has is dampened by the neck perhaps?
  23. That jumped out at me. Perhaps you mean body steering? I ride an S1000RR. Body position makes a huge difference. Can you elaborate on that? In what ways do you notice body position makes a big difference for you on the S1000? Sure. The biggest improvement I have noticed in using better body position is that the bike is more willing to turn mid corner. While I don't use body position to initiate a turn it seems to keep the line tighter and prevents the bike from going wide. As I mentioned before some of the first times I tried using "better" body position I almost ran over the apex because of the willingness of the bike to turn. I'm also a heavy rider. I tip the scales at over 200# so my body weight is pretty substantial even on a heavy bike. my 2c: 1) your body weight to bike weight is much higher than a 150 pound rider on a S1000rr (me) 2) you notice the extra steering mid turn , not during the initial turn ( slower speeds = much less inertia ) 3) bigger rider = much higher COG when locked on to the bike = instantly lower (and bigger) COG shift when hanging off / body does a repositioning for reference : a smaller/lighter rider = lower COG = much less COG shifting when hanging off / body does a repositioning ... Im not 100% sure but the hook turn technique might be relying on COMBINED COG to get the GEOMETRY of the bike to change to a faster turning one (aka in car terms from a RR layout to a MR or even a FR layout on the fly ) I also noticed that while a bike with a lower front end (either from body positioning or setup) loves to corner , it is also more skiddish at lower speeds hence the concurrent use of body positioning to STABILIZE it. its like... an active kinetic damper + bike geometry changer
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