Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ktk_ace

  1. Thanks! Can we say then that as soon as possible is the moment when the steering is completed? Are there other factors other than steering for which the rider should wait or that could make the opening of the throttle non-possible? Im thinking of a very unexpected step out type of slide mid way during steering when it isnt complete (in which throttle might be maintained or slightly reduced/ slighty opened to stabilize the bike but not a complete roll on ; drop the throttle= high change of a high side on a bike like the bmw S1000rr if the ESP is dailed to 0 aka sans ESP) or a pogo-ing suspension (hardware problem)
  2. I got the powerparts seat for my Duke and like it much more than the stock one. Much easier to move around if you need to, and still comfy to me. duke 390, 690 or 1290? the 390's stock seat is just horrid... 690r that comes with the powerpart seat isnt as supportive for me (i had access to both a duke 690 AND 690R) , dunno about the 1290
  3. super aggressive steering angle , aggressive profiled tires and super light weight bikes?
  4. The 2012 (and up) KTM duke 690 (not the 690R) stock seat pure bliss to my bossoms (comfort) nice support as it has this half donut angles "stopper" back cusion. as for grip, i prefer the felt type of seats , its 1/2 grippy and 1/2 luxury in 1 package. I do 100% street riding thou pic: http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/bikes/8483649/KTM-Duke-has-more-than-single-virtue
  5. 1) find replacement rear shocks (10K miles and the oil inside is spent , gotta get some new ones) 2) work out and be ready to look good at the beach in summer 3) hopefully save up for a much bigger bike like the MT-07(current = 125CC 4T scooter) 4) revise TOTW 2 (book + video)
  6. I did that at the gym a few hours ago IMHO u can space 40+ reps into 15 reps each with 90 seconds of rest in between for max muscle endurance ; go easy on the weights , if you dont , you end up with too much mucle mass and not much endurance, or worse ,injury. a protein shake after the entire workout helps loads with the recovery ( 20G of whey protein and 40g of swiss miss+ 5g of creatine works wonders for me as im allergic to artificial sweeteners , im 165 pounds atm)
  7. I am especially attracted to the following : 2.The rider's understanding of body positioning——how to properly position himself on the bike and why. 5.The rider's own physical limitations——height, weight, flexibility, conditioning. these 2 are too overemphasized and treated to godlike status in my area ; I gave a valid point on 1,3 and 4 and was immediately gunned down ... I guess ego and stupidity (in others) leads to over confidence ,over aggression and ultimately disaster . Time to hone the skills + parts that are still rusty
  8. I would have kept it stock or lowered the rear by 5MM (by more fork preload or less shock preload) for some slight understeer when getting used to a new ride imho... but thats just me
  9. Its written inside ; some of the members here also said about scraping parts, which is an additional informative datapoint. PS. as for the bolded part, a different total COG sum (because of different riders) will affect ride characteristics , even if 2 riders are the same weight, if one is short+fat and the other is tall+thin , the tune will be different :
  10. The 2015 S1000RR has DDC as an option AT the expense of sounding like im dissing BMW off... the HP4's version is revolutionary for its time (2013) but its half assed (outdated) as of now (2 months to 2015) ... its like comparing windows vista to 7 (8 is a total screwup so new systems/stuff unless proven using trial by fire, dont really have the benefit of being labeled "better" by consumers.)
  11. HRC figured it out in the NSR500 days... a higher rear will result in a more flipable bike at the expense of stability at lower speeds here you go (honda took it down because it was and is still too damn good (esp for its competitors) , its their "secret sauce" so to speak , esp the mass centralization parts imho... if you understand whats in it ... suspension wise i can already trump 90% of the other guys at my own level , but i want to get better too ): http://www.risingsuncycles.com/bikespecific/suspension.htm This is some hi - level stuff, i dont expect most people to understand but i do welcome those who can understand and hold a good discussion ~ this is how i improve in this aspect ^^
  12. at the expense of sounding like a cheapo ... (i prefer to word it as financially efficient ) , I just plain copy what works (the settings) for me using someone else's bike and reverse engineer / setup it if its better than my current setup . Perks of helping out at the shop and test riding some of the bikes i guess...
  13. If the tuner can scientifically assess AND word it down + make an app ... who would need a tuner? the tuner will be without a job... you get what I mean. Human factors are... also a huge variable, every monkey is built different LOL. (different COG, differnt limb lengths and different styles)
  14. I worded it wrongly as i was just about to sleep when i typed it out; Hotfoot is right, it alters the geometry of the bike too... and flips the progressive characteristrics of the whole progressive link system (not the shock but the characteristics of the links that connects to the shocks , think changing the pivot point on a see saw, but 100X more complicated, engineers usually use CAD to simulate a part) the shock's characteristics will remain the same but as a whole system, the characteristics will be "flipped" towards oversteer at low speeds and just the right amount of steer at race speeds. Stock systems (link steup + rear suspension height) are usually tuned for 90% road speeds, so its just the right amount of steer at road legal speeds and understeer at race speeds.
  15. Im not so sure if you ride the same bike (near same handling and cog + near same level of mods) and same tires (same grip + profile+ damping/handling characteristics ) + is around the same weight as said person giving advice " its art only if you don't understand it " The most scientific way is still to have a control bike + a bike with one "mod" and see how it works, but its nigh impossible in the real world , hence the artistry to fill the temporary void Im happy just with 2 to 3 points of reliable data points (usually provided by others) to map out and isolate the sweet spot in my suspension (and other) settings ~ PS. i would say its 50% intelligence and 50% luck that i get to have very accurate data/info on how to tune my bike using the least amt of effort and resources , i aint rich ... yet
  16. multi link shocks have many parts and one of the link parts on the shock/suspension assembly is called the "eccentric link" , flipping it simply means the charateristics of the shock is flipped "upside down" , the low and hi speed compression/rebound damping characteristics are "flipped" , so instead of a slightly understeering bike at low speed, he got an oversteering bike at low speeds (but steers fantastically at race pace)
  17. race grade engine braking and TC control (esp rear slip ratio) everything else is near prototype grade (read: ultra expensive and ultra capable) good luck riding like that on a sub 32,000 USD production bike ... (the panigale R is 31000 mind you)
  18. Most race preped bikes have these (usually )... Tires : slicks and sharper tire profiles make handling vastly different. Unspring weight : magtek/CNC/carbon rims (1-3 pounds per rim) , lighter brake discs frond AND rear (0.3-0.7 pounds per disc), whole brembo race caliper set (0.2- 0.8 pounds per caliper) Suspension : Ohlins TTX series mechatronic with dual way semi active suspension (both compression and rebound adjustments on the fly , the 2014 HP4 "only" has OTF compression damping adjustments) Geometry : higher rear with lowered front makes steering easier at higher speeds (read : track) , but will be overly sensitive on street speeds (As what Rchase said, there is a tradeoff ) Electronics : Power commander /bazazz tuning makes 200HP easliy with dyno tuning and race fuel , custom TC maps based on GPS data /sections of the track makes the bike switch to the optimum amount of power/ tc mode for said corner Misc: lithium battery for another 1.5-3 pounds off , race fairings without lights and signals = at least 3 pounds off , whole engine rebuilds with race spec parts... And then you can get a custom tuned frame ( *cough kalex/suter ) wihich is essentially just the "stock" motor and fairing in a different bike... (*cough moto 2) All of them are tools to track day victories/ podiums but needs time and effort to accustomize/optimize ; you are not going to be a god at the track simply by bolting everything I listed on your bike... Practice still makes perfect You can easily blow 2-20 times the price of the bike on the parts, esp the frame ~ Thats why racers get sponsors.
  19. I'd get magnesium helmet sliders for the sparkles lol
  20. video games imho might help...
  21. I read this several times and then something in my brain went "dzzzzt"...... Fixed ~ XD was just waking up while typing it LOL
  22. As a person who lives in the MIDDLE of a hill... besides side to side body positioning mentioned above by the other members of the forum I tend to lean forwards for uphill corners and backwards for downhill corners you will usually experience understeer for uphill corners and the exact opposite for downhill corners (oversteer) corners are also much easier to mitigate if its banked + without weird markings mid turn.
  23. well... the H2R is the factory benchmark , 300 HP is not only possible, its already factory proven Im sure the street H2 will have kits to make it into 300HP easily ... ditto about longetivity thou 2015 WSBK season is gonna be fun if the H2 is in the roster.
  24. FUN=/= results if u want a fun bike, imho KTM SuperdukeR 1290 if you want results , he new 2015 S1000RR with DDC and the race pack.
  25. IMHO my 2C: The Q3's might be included in a drill where you learn to warm up the tires to working temps hence the maybe lack of tire warmers. Also if said drill is geared more for the real world... you wont warm up your tires for your commute to work wont you?
  • Create New...