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Posts posted by ktk_ace
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well... the H2R is the factory benchmark , 300 HP is not only possible, its already factory proven
Im sure the street H2 will have kits to make it into 300HP easily ... ditto about longetivity thou
2015 WSBK season is gonna be fun if the H2 is in the roster. -
FUN=/= results
if u want a fun bike, imho KTM SuperdukeR 1290
if you want results , he new 2015 S1000RR with DDC and the race pack. -
IMHO my 2C:
The Q3's might be included in a drill where you learn to warm up the tires to working temps hence the maybe lack of tire warmers.Also if said drill is geared more for the real world... you wont warm up your tires for your commute to work wont you?
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Not sure if this counts as gear so there you go !
PS. DDC ( Dynamic Damping Control) is an option for all 2015 S1000RR bikes!
http://www.sportrider.com/sportbikes/bmw-announces-updated-s-1000-rr-2015?dom=sri&loc=contentwell&lnk=IMG -
IMHO maybe the G-forces already made him very connected to the bike in turn via seat , inner peg and gas tank alone.
No need for peg support if you can do that but i doubt that is even manageable at legal speeds or UNTUNED/UNMODIFIED supersport bikes.
remember in moto2, only the engine is from a CBR6000RR , everything else is... a one off, top secret sauce~
One moto 3 Kalex/suter chassis alone costs in the realm of 20-30K euros, im assuming the bigger moto2 cost even more ! -
I cannot feel any instability when I hit the steering as long as I relax instantly. It has amazed me how quickly and effortlessly the bike will go through a set of esses this way - otherwise, I have often noticed I quite a bit effort without much happening and it can take serious force to turn the bike rapidly. But with a hit, I hardly notice the power required and it happens very, very quick.
Hitting the steering sharply is not something I plan to implement as a permanent riding style, it was just something I have tried a little on my last two rides. I do think I can benefit from using a more rapid steering technique, though, by using a very quick movement with high effort but without an actual hit. What are the risks with this? Loss of traction? Dangerous instability?
That relax immediately after you complete your steering is absolutely critical and that would help diminish any wobble very quickly. That's absolutely the correct thing to do when you complete your steering. I can't explain the lack of wobble if you are truly punching the bar. I suspect that either you're not truly "punching" the bar in the way I envision, or perhaps you're using only a little lean angle. Punching the bar to a higher lean angle compresses the fork very quickly and causes it to rebound excessively, causing a wiggle. I wish I could observe what is going on. Nonetheless, congrats on your discoveries!
Cheers,
Benny
rebound...hmm... Maybe his bike + him is just tuned/lucked out to the rebound damping hence the lack of a wobble as the weight + action just about cancels out the reaction force.
Both bike and rider are heavy from what i see.
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Compounding that, I move my upper body quite a bit over.. Longer arms, bigger body = more work. Get tired I slow down to fast riders pace
seems that some types of turns require more effort WRT body weight and vice versa ... (im thinking at least 3 types, heavy rider biased/ light rider biased/ neutral)
well it might explain why some tracks favor bigger riders and some smaller.
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well technically you just need proper throttle control and stay connected
no handlebar inputs needed if the turning is already completely done.
its only magic to those who dont understand the science behind it
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I have always used "normal" quick steering since I began riding back in 1980 simply because it felt natural. And also safer, because I could get further into a corner before turning, allowing me to see better if the road was clear. I didn't know that it had a name until I read TWOT2, but it's what I've done by instinct.
I cannot feel any instability when I hit the steering as long as I relax instantly. It has amazed me how quickly and effortlessly the bike will go through a set of esses this way - otherwise, I have often noticed I quite a bit effort without much happening and it can take serious force to turn the bike rapidly. But with a hit, I hardly notice the power required and it happens very, very quick.
Hitting the steering sharply is not something I plan to implement as a permanent riding style, it was just something I have tried a little on my last two rides. I do think I can benefit from using a more rapid steering technique, though, by using a very quick movement with high effort but without an actual hit. What are the risks with this? Loss of traction? Dangerous instability?
You should revise the quick flick chapter in the video and books, there are some conditions that are dangerous/ adds massive instability when doing that
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Doohan never understood why a rider would use a thumb operated rear brake if the foot/leg was working - he only used the thumb thing because of his fused ankle preventing him to operate the rear brake in a normal fashion.
Not everyone is Doohan , alot of us are just mere mortals.~
We ned all the help we can get!!
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Its a pre-programmed system.
if you are under/over the stock spec weight , you will have to adjust the suspension system just like any traditional system to shift the sweet spot to favor you for races.
traditional systems consist of springs , oil viscosity , damping rate settings(low/hi rebound/compression clickers in the OHLINS TTX example).
DDS just adds an additional (semi active on the fly) software aspect to the suspension system.
As with any new tool, you will have to learn to use it properly to bring it to its maximum potential. -
just my 2c's
Im sure the COG of 2t 500cc racers and the current breed of 999CC motogp bikes are leagues apart.4T engines are much more heavier than the 2T counterparts imho.
Rossi is just adapting to a heavier machine for flipping the bike over in S turn corners. -
If you go and read up on why Honda patented the C-ABS and the workings behind it , you'll know why...
Its better imho for the computer to help out when you are mentally and skillfully out of the 10 dollars worth of attention.
Thats where TC/ C-ABS comes in, its technically 2 sides of the same coin (controlled acceleration / deceleration slip rate/ratio)
rear brake use imho is a strategic decision that in most production bikes , are next to useless in terms of modulation and linearity unless modified extensively. There are exceptions to this thou in very hi end production racers with TC/C-ABS and mopeds that have the rear brake lever on where the clutch lever used to be... you are in luck if you have one of these.
Finger and toe sensitivity/pressure application are miles apart, i dont think anyone can argue with this... -
Good to know that my moped is of a much higher tech level than your Z650 ...
I clicked like 2 months into the book/video program
better late than never!! *runs off!! -
Honda RCV1000R
looks like the race grade C-ABS has some hiccups. could be sensor, could be sftware, who knows? -
http://www.bridgestone.co.uk/moto/ranges/battlax/t30/
If you do track days, imho get them replaced; the current YZF-R1 doesnt have race grade traction control as an electronic safety aid + extremely lousy mass centralization by todays standards.
The S20's were already extremely uninspiring on my friends bike. Only the R10's are usable on the track imho. Or just grab the Dunlop Q3's . -
Welcome! ^^
The books and video are a great help imho ; it'll take quite a few track days to internalize whats in them too~ -
Sometimes its the overall geometry of the bike VS your body build ...
I for example can get a somehow vague lower body grip on most Ducati's and the RSV4 , and that results in me gripping the handlebars more than I should ; Not a problem on the 2014 BMW S1000rr or Kawasaki ZX10R where i can get a very confident and comfortable grip with my lower body, resulting in very little passive pressure on the handlebars.
Tank grips help lots too, you have those installed on your bike? -
An interesting article on kwasaki's 2013 WSBK winning ZX10R
http://www.sportrider.com/sportbikes/kawasaki-world-superbike-zx-10r-racer-test-green-new-gold?src=SOC&dom=fb -
So. I'm interested. In regards to design philosophy, are the cast frame decisions that some Japanese makers made based on weight, flex, price or perhaps a combination of all three?
My 2c on the 1000CC race replica's
Kawasaki:
Most of kawasaki's bikes are not light by any measure = they use older tech and dont put so much emphasis on weight reduction/mass centralization.
Just look at the ZX6/10R end pipes, its still pretty traditional one piece by the side ( unlike the panigale/RC8R )
benefit is its more rugged + repair friendly
Kawasaki's emphasis has always been more horsepower and aerodynamics (ram air ) and recently, Traction control.
Their marketing has always been the most power for a given price (most bike for your buck).
Yamaha:
mostly lookers + motogp marketing (Rossi anyone?) ,
funny that the current R1 has the best motogp related engine (crosshaft crank) and best USD swingarm but worse weight /mass centralization of all big4 bikes.
the 2 end pipes under the seat looks badass but in terms of mass centralization is utter rubbish imho.
Its a looker but its hell unbalanced in the 2014 crowd imho.
I guessing alot of Yamaha's bikes profits go to the Motogp program...
Honda:
Motogp Motogp Motogp... Honda wants you to pay out of your pocket and socks for Mass centralization and nothing much. (maybe HRC colors lol)
Their unit pro link isnt even used in their motoGP program...
Suzuki
Poor Suzuki , I have no idea what in the world are they doing these past few years with the GSX-R besides price cutting and cutting and cutting...
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Im for sliders with a tendency to glide on the ground on touchdown and ground off evenly than make the bike rotate around like a top (round protruding sliders are very guilty of this) .
Ah, I wonder if that is the reason for the teardrop shape of those R&G sliders, I never really thought about it but maybe that helps the slider slide straight instead of putting the bike into a spin.
There has been instances where a hi speed lowside caused the bike + round protruding slider to spin and hit said riders, with disastrous results...
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Im for sliders with a tendency to glide on the ground on touchdown and ground off evenly than make the bike rotate around like a top (round protruding sliders are very guilty of this) .
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Ok. Here's one for you tire reading guru's.
This tire is mounted to the back of a BMW S1000RR that belongs to a professional racer. What can you tell from the wear?
Given the right side is neatly sheared off, i'd say alot of right turns...
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Tight Corners With Elevation Changes
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
As a person who lives in the MIDDLE of a hill...
besides side to side body positioning mentioned above by the other members of the forum
I tend to lean forwards for uphill corners and backwards for downhill corners
you will usually experience understeer for uphill corners and the exact opposite for downhill corners (oversteer)
corners are also much easier to mitigate if its banked + without weird markings mid turn.