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ktk_ace

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Posts posted by ktk_ace

  1. As a person who lives in the MIDDLE of a hill...

    besides side to side body positioning mentioned above by the other members of the forum

    I tend to lean forwards for uphill corners and backwards for downhill corners

    you will usually experience understeer for uphill corners and the exact opposite for downhill corners (oversteer)

    corners are also much easier to mitigate if its banked + without weird markings mid turn.

  2. IMHO maybe the G-forces already made him very connected to the bike in turn via seat , inner peg and gas tank alone.

    No need for peg support if you can do that but i doubt that is even manageable at legal speeds or UNTUNED/UNMODIFIED supersport bikes.

    remember in moto2, only the engine is from a CBR6000RR , everything else is... a one off, top secret sauce~

    One moto 3 Kalex/suter chassis alone costs in the realm of 20-30K euros, im assuming the bigger moto2 cost even more !

  3.  

    I cannot feel any instability when I hit the steering as long as I relax instantly. It has amazed me how quickly and effortlessly the bike will go through a set of esses this way - otherwise, I have often noticed I quite a bit effort without much happening and it can take serious force to turn the bike rapidly. But with a hit, I hardly notice the power required and it happens very, very quick.

     

    Hitting the steering sharply is not something I plan to implement as a permanent riding style, it was just something I have tried a little on my last two rides. I do think I can benefit from using a more rapid steering technique, though, by using a very quick movement with high effort but without an actual hit. What are the risks with this? Loss of traction? Dangerous instability?

    That relax immediately after you complete your steering is absolutely critical and that would help diminish any wobble very quickly. That's absolutely the correct thing to do when you complete your steering. I can't explain the lack of wobble if you are truly punching the bar. I suspect that either you're not truly "punching" the bar in the way I envision, or perhaps you're using only a little lean angle. Punching the bar to a higher lean angle compresses the fork very quickly and causes it to rebound excessively, causing a wiggle. I wish I could observe what is going on. Nonetheless, congrats on your discoveries!

     

    Cheers,

    Benny

     

     

    rebound...hmm... Maybe his bike + him is just tuned/lucked out to the rebound damping hence the lack of a wobble as the weight + action just about cancels out the reaction force.

     

    Both bike and rider are heavy from what i see.

  4. Compounding that, I move my upper body quite a bit over.. Longer arms, bigger body = more work. Get tired I slow down to fast riders pace ;)

     

    seems that some types of turns require more effort WRT body weight and vice versa ... (im thinking at least 3 types, heavy rider biased/ light rider biased/ neutral)

     

    well it might explain why some tracks favor bigger riders and some smaller.

  5. I have always used "normal" quick steering since I began riding back in 1980 simply because it felt natural. And also safer, because I could get further into a corner before turning, allowing me to see better if the road was clear. I didn't know that it had a name until I read TWOT2, but it's what I've done by instinct.

     

    I cannot feel any instability when I hit the steering as long as I relax instantly. It has amazed me how quickly and effortlessly the bike will go through a set of esses this way - otherwise, I have often noticed I quite a bit effort without much happening and it can take serious force to turn the bike rapidly. But with a hit, I hardly notice the power required and it happens very, very quick.

     

    Hitting the steering sharply is not something I plan to implement as a permanent riding style, it was just something I have tried a little on my last two rides. I do think I can benefit from using a more rapid steering technique, though, by using a very quick movement with high effort but without an actual hit. What are the risks with this? Loss of traction? Dangerous instability?

    You should revise the quick flick chapter in the video and books, there are some conditions that are dangerous/ adds massive instability when doing that :)

  6. Its a pre-programmed system.

    if you are under/over the stock spec weight , you will have to adjust the suspension system just like any traditional system to shift the sweet spot to favor you for races.

    traditional systems consist of springs , oil viscosity , damping rate settings(low/hi rebound/compression clickers in the OHLINS TTX example).

    DDS just adds an additional (semi active on the fly) software aspect to the suspension system.


    As with any new tool, you will have to learn to use it properly to bring it to its maximum potential.

  7. If you go and read up on why Honda patented the C-ABS and the workings behind it , you'll know why...

    Its better imho for the computer to help out when you are mentally and skillfully out of the 10 dollars worth of attention.

    Thats where TC/ C-ABS comes in, its technically 2 sides of the same coin (controlled acceleration / deceleration slip rate/ratio)

    rear brake use imho is a strategic decision that in most production bikes , are next to useless in terms of modulation and linearity unless modified extensively. There are exceptions to this thou in very hi end production racers with TC/C-ABS and mopeds that have the rear brake lever on where the clutch lever used to be... you are in luck if you have one of these.

    Finger and toe sensitivity/pressure application are miles apart, i dont think anyone can argue with this...

  8. Sometimes its the overall geometry of the bike VS your body build ...

    I for example can get a somehow vague lower body grip on most Ducati's and the RSV4 , and that results in me gripping the handlebars more than I should ; Not a problem on the 2014 BMW S1000rr or Kawasaki ZX10R where i can get a very confident and comfortable grip with my lower body, resulting in very little passive pressure on the handlebars.

    Tank grips help lots too, you have those installed on your bike?

  9. So. I'm interested. In regards to design philosophy, are the cast frame decisions that some Japanese makers made based on weight, flex, price or perhaps a combination of all three?

     

    My 2c on the 1000CC race replica's

    Kawasaki:

     

    Most of kawasaki's bikes are not light by any measure = they use older tech and dont put so much emphasis on weight reduction/mass centralization.

     

    Just look at the ZX6/10R end pipes, its still pretty traditional one piece by the side ( unlike the panigale/RC8R )

     

    benefit is its more rugged + repair friendly

     

    Kawasaki's emphasis has always been more horsepower and aerodynamics (ram air ) and recently, Traction control.

     

    Their marketing has always been the most power for a given price (most bike for your buck).

     

     

    Yamaha:

     

    mostly lookers + motogp marketing (Rossi anyone?) ,

    funny that the current R1 has the best motogp related engine (crosshaft crank) and best USD swingarm but worse weight /mass centralization of all big4 bikes.

    the 2 end pipes under the seat looks badass but in terms of mass centralization is utter rubbish imho.

     

    Its a looker but its hell unbalanced in the 2014 crowd imho.

     

    I guessing alot of Yamaha's bikes profits go to the Motogp program...

     

     

    Honda:

     

    Motogp Motogp Motogp... Honda wants you to pay out of your pocket and socks for Mass centralization and nothing much. (maybe HRC colors lol)

     

    Their unit pro link isnt even used in their motoGP program...

     

    Suzuki

     

    Poor Suzuki , I have no idea what in the world are they doing these past few years with the GSX-R besides price cutting and cutting and cutting...

  10.  

    Im for sliders with a tendency to glide on the ground on touchdown and ground off evenly than make the bike rotate around like a top (round protruding sliders are very guilty of this) .

     

     

     

    Ah, I wonder if that is the reason for the teardrop shape of those R&G sliders, I never really thought about it but maybe that helps the slider slide straight instead of putting the bike into a spin.

     

     

    There has been instances where a hi speed lowside caused the bike + round protruding slider to spin and hit said riders, with disastrous results...

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