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Everything posted by ktk_ace

  1. Yup. The situation has been like that since we began riding 30+ years ago on virtually every bike we've had. BTW, the only bike I've had regular issues with regarding front end grip was with the CB400SF on Dunlop Motard radials, and by than I had altered my riding to more mimic that of my brother; brake early and turn in after getting off the brakes. Very disconcerting. Now I'm comfortable with late, medium and early braking, and the old style diagonal tyres on my old Z650 stick fine from the first meter. Which I like. Ultimate grip isn't great, but I do not push events any longer, so I have no issues. Track oriented tyres, from my limited experience, do not stick well when cold and when temps get close to freezing they offer about the same kind of grip as 10 year old touring tyres. For my mild mannered riding, I prefer predictable tyres that offer similar grip from from start to finish, from cool to warm days. And I have never been able to break traction no matter how hard I work the handlebars to change directions. I did a search on the Z650... mind if i ask if the wheels are spoked or forged ? If its spoked.... the suspension is gonna take one hell of a beating from modern race oriented rubbers esp with the carbon sidewall Q3's imho. the load capabilities are just off the charts compared to 10 yr old touring tyres ... Kinda like bow and arrow VS a magpul ACR tech wise .
  2. Although I am not qualified to comment in any way... I'll still do it I have, up until recently, been braking late and turning with the front brake trailing, using more of a V-corner style, standing the bike up before accelerating out. If I overshot, I would brake all the way through a corner. I have not had any issues with front tyre wear or grip in general. My brother has always done most of his braking upright, turned in hard and been back on the throttle early. He has always had issues with front tyre wear and often lost the front. This is with street riding in mind. Tell me you are still on soggy suspension and street tires Had a turn on one of the shops really messed up scooters , no way in hell im gonna quick flip it, it just doesnt feel planted at all to the ground , its like .... its on ice for a lack of a better term to describe it Back to topic : Im sure the S1000RR 's longer wheelbase and slightly relaxed rake/trail + TC makes quick turn almost impossible (to be overdone *EDITED) 'cept when tires are not warmed up properly and with TC set to really really low or off (I presume in racing, its off/ set to low?) . But having one of the highest output of all the 1L engine streetbike sure sets some of the above off; its a see-saw of balancing how much stability you can trade off for more speed without having an accident , does that count as experience ? newer GSX-R 1000's for a lack of a better term, because of the short wheelbase +no TC , makes it a weapon in the right hands( WSBK grade rider) and right racetracks (smaller /tighter turns) but lethal to less talented/educated/experienced riders as what hotfoot said for a bike with a "lower" front ,more instability and twitch at some speeds/conditions (No TC= one less safety net) info: 2014 GSXR 1000 1405 MM wheelbase , 2014 S1000RR 1432 MM wheelbase Do note that the 2014 GSXR 1000 has an electronic steering damper to iron out some instability/twitch (what speeds and conditions I dont know) while the S1000rr has TC + longer wheelbase. Im sure COG has some influence here but just cant find a pattern here atm... Edit: this is PURELY theoretical and not trying to be sexist but if COG has a formularic pattern, then it could explain why riders who are more top heavy (esp women) prefer lowered front bikes, it offsets a part of their COG on the stock settings, how much im not sure. Im sure Im taller than hotfoot but with a lanky light build , i actually prefer a slightly taller front end , maybe my COMBINED COG of a similar bike+rider might be actually the same as hotfoots lowered front build. there almost certainly can only have one "Sweet spot" range in a formula governed with constants like gravity and mostly fixed variables (wheelbase,power output,tire sizing) imho
  3. Im interested in the track temp and which tires you are on... mind sharing?
  4. I would like to add that if your 150CC bike has a wheelbase of LESS than 1370MM , changing tires different to stock sizes can have huge effects on the handling alone , and most of the time detrimental if you dont know what you are doing. Over/understeer and stability issues could arise easily. happy reading: http://www.risingsuncycles.com/bikespecific/suspension.htm PS. The ninja 250R has a 1400MM wheelbase and the CBR250 1370.
  5. Unless the ECU of the VFR becomes open sourced (both hard AND software -wise), I doubt you can actually know how it works inside, legally that is... Technically , from a (very noob) programmer POV, the ECU has a built in "self learning" part (which is like RAM , parameters keeps changing depending on other paramemters) its sort of like the butterfly effect ... if i can actually make out how every VFR ECU work AND CONSISTENTLY , I'd be headhunted for one of their departments...
  6. Yamaha is having a new frame/chassis being rolled out imho. Looks like lorenzo and Rossi are adapting well to the new bike Watch out Honda!!
  7. im not sure if going up a hill counts or not > / \ (the type with a flat in the middle) nearly wheelied up sideways when i QT to pass a slow motorist; ended up losing the front for 0.5 seconds, good thing im loose on the bars , bike tided itself upon landing.
  8. the front geometry looked waaay too steep ; did you by any chance lower the front OR lengthen the rear's height (as in making it higher) ? rake angle geometry is a science im beginning to touch and my guesstimate is that the bike is too maneuvable at the expense of stability , giving way too easily due to a very small unwanted steering input. I presume there was no steering damper too ?
  9. Well if its race grade , why not? WSBK level tc that is; saves 20% on your tire usage at that too.
  10. Depends on many factors imho... On the superduke 1290 , twin brembo M50s? doable. On the norton commando... nah. anything on a streetbike with no proper aerodynamic fairings and above 200KM/H = the wind will try to tear you off your bike
  11. I'm in the program to ride better too ; thou i would say 75% safer/better/control wise and 25% faster/more speed as part of my overall objective. The traffic and pedestrians are are effin' nuts fyi, the law heavily biased against pedestrians doesnt help either. Less SR's triggering = more control + bigger portion of 10 dollars to spend on emergencies.
  12. My stock brake is going fine after 20K miles (no rebulids so far, only bleeding and cleaning) so i think the lube isnt really necessary , it might just be icing on the cake for all i know Just my 2c
  13. Welcome! My old hometown is just south of MY, Wish i could visit Sepang someday
  14. Yes, I knew that was meant mostly for entertainment. I had not yet seen your post, it popped up while I was typing my reply to Stroker. Is that actually you in the photo? Naw, that is not me but I would love to try that one day. Maybe on a bike that is older and cheaper. Seriously though, I am in the dirt for the obvious reasons but for the subtle ones as well. Staying frosty between races/track time. Keeping visual skills on par. Keeping decision making skills as fast as possible. Keeping fitness and endurance high. Keeping passing skills more "aggressive". Trying to hit the rutting every time helps me with consistency. I had an interesting thing happen to me last weekend. I blew a corner on the track and ended up in the grass runoff area. Normally when this happens to me, there is a "sharp" change in thinking. This time, there wasn't, the transition from tarmac to dirt was more blended together. Difficult to explain but totally cool to feel. As I took the "shortcut" from turn 2 to turn 5 lol, there was mud, bumps, the drain ditch and I still had to scrub off some speed/downshift, all the while keeping my head straight enough to not crash and reenter the track safely. FUN! Im also interested in knowing the pros AND cons of dirt riding in relation to racing , esp on tarmac/asphalt surfaces. WHo better to ask than someone who does both?? Does it give you arm pump on the track later as dirt tracking makes use of a lot of upper body movements?
  15. I have lots of article on wet everyday riding but not racing in the wet so bummer me too.
  16. You should talk to Jorge Lorenzo and tell him he went about it all wrong. No wonder he only has 4 world titles I rather talk to Casey Stoner if you ask me. Also 4 world titles. But of course if you wanna be more scientific , I would love to interview all world champs who had dirt track experience , a broader view across never hurts
  17. Thats alot of (and very good) preparation for brake pads! Care to share on what brake fluid you are going to use? meanwhile you can have a look on the characteristics of the SRJL-17's compared to the other pad material here (looks like quite alot of initial bite to me ; better make sure the tires are warm and grippy) : http://www.vesrah.com/new_page_56.htm
  18. I didnt know you could run 8's on a dirt bike on a dirt track until now , thats some new insight for me... Maybe my idea of running 8's on asphalt was limiting my scope and view , thanks for the insights in your post!
  19. Mind showing us the videos? edit: did you mean this? I'd say 2 factors come into play: 1) The grade of the ABS I have the opportunity to try both the FZ6N , XJ6N and the NC700 at the training grounds The FZ6N is obviously the oldest bike in the paddock and with craped out suspension to boot ,; when the ABS came on, it was shuttering like mad ; stopping distance wasnt good XJ6N and the NC700 are new bikes but the XJ6N 's ABS had a tendency to overheat the fork oils , resulting in the same shuttering like the FZ6N when the 4th or 5th rider came to ride the bike on a hot day during braking test practice runs (every rider has to run the whole course at least 10 times) The NC700 however, has C-ABS , braking distance was significantly shorter although it only has one disc brake up front plus it has much less brake dive. The rider also doesnt get "thrown" or "shaken" that badly hence having more of the 10 dollars attention to relaxing the upper body and focusing on grabbing the tank with the tights. C-abs doesnt come with downsides thou, if it activates in a corner , the line will be affected much more as 2 wheels are braking simultaneously . 2)the body positioning Obviously if you clamp down on the tank AND dont straighten up your arms, the weight transfer forward will be much less resulting in a shorter braking distance. That said, I'll still opt for ABS as insurance for ABS equipped bikes are much lower. The 2014 updated bosche 9.1M abs unit on the KTM adventure 1190 is another whole new level imho. Its called MSC but i think its still ABS with updated software to work with the lean angle sensor .
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