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Dragon RR

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Everything posted by Dragon RR

  1. hey no problem, i like sharing my thoughts i understand the horsepower thing. i couldn't seem to get my f4i to do it on dry, smooth pavement. although, if you can't force it, i say don't worry about it. it's nice to get comfortable with it just in case you do it in the dry, just so you won't freak yourself out. another factor that i forgot to mention would be tire wear. if you've used a lot of tread on the sides of your tire, it will grip less. oh, not to mention lean angle. i can't do it in the dry yet either (on a liter bike) but i'm sure it's just one of those things that "happen" as you get used to the bike. and those 125 and 250 bikes are all two stroke, i'm pretty sure, and you have experience with the peaks in power on those, so it wouldn't be a problem for you then. if you ever make it to the gp's, will you give me an autograph?
  2. that might have to do with the size/weight of the two bikes. i'm not sure if the wheelbase would be much different. i wouldn't suggest trying to get a knee down on the street though. i mean, i know plenty of guys who have had no problems destroying pucks on public roads, and i've gotten my knee down a few times too, but one time i did it on an f4i i had, well.... that's why i said had. you just never know about gravel, animals, oil, or in my case, street imperfections. at the track you don't have to worry about all that. at mid ohio i was able to get my knee down all day, but i still can't find it easy on the street. i like to think it's intelligence and not fear though
  3. 2-piece suits should be fine, as long as they zip together. A 1-piece is a little safer because theres still a chance that the zipper could come apart. A 1-piece would probably be more comfortable also because you wouldn't have the zipper in the way. Besides, a 1-piece looks cooler
  4. Some of the best riders I know are in their 50's 60's. I'm 23 and a few of the guys I've ridden with who are 50-60 something will outright leave me. And anyone I've seen who has taken any level of these classes has come out a MUCH better rider, including myself. I've only noticed large differences in riding abilities after class also, not just minor things. Another thing, I know riders within my age that can go a lot faster than me on the street, but I like to attribute that to my higher intelligence cause wrecking hurts
  5. Another thing to remember is that when you're actually moving your body, try to avoid using your arms. The less inputs you put into the steering, the better. Try using your legs to do it. If it's still not clear enough, stand up on the pegs enough to get the weight off your butt, and move your body with your legs. killadude put the process very well, though. It's best to get the movement done before you focus your attention on the brakes.
  6. Here are the 2 pictures I got from Mid Ohio this past year on August 7 I took the school as my first (and only so far) track day and I don't regret the decision at all
  7. I think he means to use the rear brake only when traction is an urgent issue, like in gravel or grass if you happened to run off the track. A rear wheel skid is a lot easier to control than a front wheel skid. The front brakes are all I'd recommend on the paved parts because downshifting will let your rear tire help slow you down, and just using your front brakes allow you to use attention else where. Having to worry about the rear brake just adds more unnecessary things to think about. Most of the stopping power is on the front wheel anyway. But even though the rear brake isn't used much on the track, it is nice to have just in case.
  8. I don't think race tires and warmers would help you out very much, personally. I run Pilot Powers and haven't had any trouble what so ever out of them. The set that are on my bike now were taken to the track when they were new, and I drug my peg a little and still had no problems from them. I've since had them on quite a few hundred of miles on back roads on the set too, with no complaints. I would suggest trying some high-end street tires, like Powers or the Battle Axes or Qualifiers, and if you get to the point in your riding that you're reaching the limit of the tire, step it up then. No use spending money where you don't have to.
  9. There are no silly questions, just silly answers. Right? I don't know what setup racers use, but I know it would differ between each racer. And yes, lowering your bike will get your knee closer to the ground, but it will also get hard parts of your bike, like your fairing or pegs, closer as well. First off, find a site to show you how to set the sag for your bike, and find a couple friends to help you do it. Suspension height won't matter if it becomes more comfortable to you. It doesn't matter how close you are if you aren't comfortable. Hanging off of the bike more makes it easier to drag also, but personally it gives me less of a feel for the bike when my whole butt is off the seat. Dragging your knee really just comes along with your comfort level on the bike. Gradually you'll get more used to the lean angles, and you'll start getting your knee down. I have a 1000rr and I have the suspension set really really high, cause I'm 6'2, and I had no trouble at all dragging my knee on my first track day. On the street it's different. Before I could drag my knee, I set it as a goal like you did. No matter how much I wanted it, I just couldn't seem to do it. Then, I went to Deal's Gap, and as soon as I stopped worrying about it and put my focus on my riding and on the road, it happened. It scared me the first time because I wasn't expecting it. At the track it seemed easy, and in some corners I was able to start dragging my knee, and then lean the bike even more without worrying about the traction I had with the tires. It's still hard for me to do it on the street though because I'm always worried about not being able to see through the turn, or finding gravel, or an animal, or messing up my line and wandering into the other lane or running too wide in my own lane. I'd suggest just doing it at the track. You can't force it though, it just has to come naturally. If you put too much focus on dragging your knee, you may lose site of feeling the bike. I know it's not what you wanted to hear, but it's the only way to safely do it. The only "trick" to help you do it is hanging off more. But be careful with that because it may lessen your feel of what the bike's doing and may cause you some problems. Remember though, you'll never drag your knee until you stop "trying" to do it. It just happens is all. All of the riders I know feel the exact same on the subject. I know that you will too when it happens.
  10. I think riding puts me in a higher level of consciousness. It gives me that feeling of giddiness when I started riding every time I learn something new or make a perfect line through succession of turns or even narrowly escape getting run over because I reacted quickly enough to get out of the way. Even all of the looks of jealousy and admiration from every bystander you pass. Plus, you can't ride wheelies in a car. I could say the danger, but actually I feel ten times safer on my bike than in my truck.
  11. On the street, I don't think the hip thing is a good idea. You don't want to move around too suddenly or anything because it can seem to get you in trouble quick, you're messing with the suspension as its trying to do its job. I think the action with the handle bars is dangerous also because that can lead to a sudden loss of control too. The smoothest way I've found is just with the throttle. I haven't done it on a track yet and I have a big bike, but I just roll on smoothly to get it to slide a little. Rough pavement, cold roads/tires, and wet conditions are the easiest to play around with it in. It has seemed easier for me to get used to the way the bike feels when I would do it in less-than-perfect conditions. I know it probably sounds stupid, but there was a left turn on brick that I would almost always step it out in when it was raining. It seemed easier to handle because there was a lot less to think about and I could do it at a lot slower speed. But no matter how wet it is out, it can still grab hold all of the sudden on brick, possibly resulting in throwing you over. I would suggest trying on your bike like this so you can get used to the way the bike feels at a slower speed, and then try using just the throttle at the track when you get comfortable. I think throttle-only would give you the least amount of factors to think about while your doing it. Also, I think riding in the dirt gives you a whole library of information you can use for the street. I mean, Nicky Hayden started out in the dirt, and look at where he is now.
  12. Actually, I too have a CBR1000RR and took it to a class back in August. Which was also my first track day. I was more worried about applying the lessons in the corners than ripping the straights and having to worry about how much I needed to slow down for the up coming turn, and in turn ZX6 riders would pass me and hold me up in the corners. It was fun figuring out how to pass them with momentum though. I would back off, like he said before, and gather some speed in the corner so I could pass them without having to take my bike out of 4th gear (at Mid-Ohio). But having someone slower than you in the corners can be a good thing cause it may force you to think around them and choose a different line to let you get a better drive out of the corner. Man... it's not quite winter yet and I'm already craving the track again.
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