It seems a lot of you are not familiar with bicycle steering physics. Here is a quick primer.
Balance is maintained when your center of gravity is between the two contact patches of your tires. When your CG moves to either side of the line drawn between the patches, you fall in that direction. On all bikes, the handlebars are at an angle, and the axis of steering (a line through the handlebar pivot) falls in front of the contact patch of the tire. These two parameters give you stability. As you fall to either side, the bike steers in that direction. This is why you can ride a bicycle with no hands (NOT GYROSCOPIC PRECISION!) If you don't believe this, take a beater pedal bike and weld the steering in the vertical position and try to ride it. You won't go more than a few feet, gyros or not. Other people researched this too. Some guy named David Jones, many years back, made a bicycle with a counter-rotating wheels whose gyroscopic forces all canceled out. It made only slight differences in handling characteristics but was completely rideable.
In order to turn ANY bike (pedal, motor, or otherwise) you must turn in the opposite direction of the turn. When you do this, the bottom of the bike moves (as thats where the contact patches are) one way, bringinig your CG to the opposite side, and initiating a fall which can be used to initiate a turn. On a motorcycle with big tires (compared to a pedal bike) one maintains the countersteer during a turn. This is because of the contact patch. During a countersteer turn, the tires touches the road closer to the sidewall, and leaves the road closer to the centerline. This gives you an actual steering angle which is different than the direction the tire is spinning. As you turn even harder, the rubber tire begins to distort. This distortion rolls the tire sideways, adding to the effects of the countersteer. One must countersteer less to maintain the turn. You also have inertia (centripital force) pushing you out of the turn, gravity and lean pulling you into the turn, chassis flex making your rear wheel turn, bump torque, etc. all going on too.
Gyroscopic precision may firm up the steering at high speeds, but it is minimal in comparison to the other forces at play (like gravity), and because it has really crappy leverage to work with (think about how wide the struts are). Imagine 50lbs pushing up on 1 fork strut and pulling down on the other (100lbs net force). I could counter that by moving my fat butt over an inch. Its nothing in comparison to the pull of the mass of the engine at a 30 degree lean angle, or the interia pulling you upright under the same conditions. Thats hundreds of pounds with feet of leverage! Lightening suspension and minimizing unsprung weight will help acceleration because it all acts like flywheels, damping acceleration. It will improve suspension response because there is less vibrating mass to dampen when you hit a bump. Removing sprung weight only makes a difference if it is a lot of mass (think percentage of bike+rider), and for many people the biggest, cheapest gains in this department can be had going on a diet.
