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Deep

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Everything posted by Deep

  1. I bet you can race more spending less on tires
  2. Wide and late entry then cut in on the inside after apex or late brake
  3. As far as I know, CSS recommends "not hanging off TOO far" ONLY because it is a rare rider that can hang off that much without putting some pressure on the bars or losing the stability of their position. I'm pretty confident that if you could show that you could hang off more than a half-cheek and still be solidly locked on, feel comfortable, and have NO weight on the bars, your coach would be totally ok with it. More commonly we see riders trying to hang their butt off so far that they have to hold onto the inside bar, which has a big negative impact on the bike's handling - so we ask the rider to hang off less, get the lower body very stable on the bike, and get rid of that unwanted bar pressure, which generally results in the bike handling more predictably and a much happier rider. yep nice and short!
  4. I absolutely agree, Steve. I was thinking the opposite way around: what can we learn from the way that Lorenzo, Hayden, Pedrosa, Stoner, and Rossi rides. Maybe there's something we (or, gasp, even Keith!) missed when working out the technology of riding. As an example, CSS clearly recommends that you don't hang out too much: "one cheek is enough" is said in the TOWT2-DVD. But when I watched the MotoGP Qualifying Practice on Saturday (I happened to find a bar in GuangZhou that showed ESPN. Didn't get to see the race due to a 5 hour delayed flight), clearly Stoner is hanging out with BOTH cheeks, and he's actually crawling down on the side of the bike. So how do we go and resolve these two observations into a single common "theory" or "technology"? I have my opinions about this... Kai maybe that is why he has arm pump issues? Vision is what separates a two racers not body position
  5. I am not a physicist (actually a chemist) so correct me if I am wrong .. weighting the inside or the outside peg DOES NOT change your body's CG and hence cannot change the overall(bike+rider) CG of the bike
  6. I have asked myself the same question and here is what I think is true .. weighting the pegs wont change the lean angle, weight the outside peg does increase the traction on the rear tire .. IMHO
  7. A fast guy at the track told me to use the feet/ankle as a C clamp on the bike and the knee against the gas tank .. this 3 point grip on the bike helped me immensely to free up the upper body .. previously I just used the outside foot and knee for most of the pressure and it felt uncomfortable
  8. Good lines follow the throttle control rule -- That's the most important thing Code
  9. WOW. That is quite a turn, and you weren't kidding about it being light bulb shaped! Maybe see if you can find a place where you can get on a constant circle, set your speed and then try doing a slight, gentle roll-on, then gentle decrease of throttle, with your arms VERY relaxed on the bars, and observe how your line changes. Too much will make you go wider, but not enough will end up slowing you down and making your arc tighten. Cornering and wind forces will have the effect of slowing the bike, so holding the throttle FLAT with no roll-on at all will end up with the bike slowing down. So, if you are smooth with it, you should be able to use your throttle throughout that whole long turn to widen or tighten your line as desired. If, at the end, you find that you are a little wider than you want, hook-turn would be very useful - have you been to CSS and seen that technique? It is a challenge in a long turn to use enough roll-on to stabilize the bike and hold your line but not so much that you end up with TOO much accumulated speed at the end. If you feel like you are having to steer the bike back out, though, I'd try adding a bit of throttle instead and try to correct it that way. Some good points there and that is a very good experiment to do, going around a circle and playing with throttle control and bodyposition aswell .. The thing is I feel I can carry more speed if I continuously countersteer and hold it throughout the whole turn and actually build some speed and even holding my line .. but I realize I am not supposed to do that but I do that when I have to pass people on those long turns so one countersteering action per turn goes out of the roof. It might be that the bike will stay in that line even if I do not countersteer but I am not certain. Yea I am saving up for the Level 1 http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showtopic=2547 Found this thread later and it answers my questions .. I need relearn some stuff
  10. That sounds like a throttle control issue - if you are not rolling on the throttle ENOUGH, you may be slowing down, which will tighten up your arc, making you have to steer the bike to the outside to keep it on your desired line. Do you recall, from Twist of the Wrist or the Twist II DVD, how MUCH acceleration is required for good throttle control? Anyone else want to chime in on that? If you are sure that you are rolling on the throttle enough to maintain at least a slight acceleration, it could be a suspension issue, the front end 'packing down' and causing the bike to steer in tighter - in that case, stiffer on compression and/or looser on rebound might help. But I'd for sure try doing a more progressive throttle roll-on first, that is most likely to fix it. You are using the term "maintenance throttle" and I think that can mean different things to different people - what does it mean to you? Here is the track running clockwise turn 5 (the long left hander) people just hold the throttle .. I know Keith says you need just a little throttle to keep the 40/60 weight but that turn is so freaking long you cannot do that or you will end up running wide screwing up the next turn
  11. Very nice! one question tho .. is a maintenance throttle corner(lightbulb shaped turn) what does it mean if you have to push the outer bar slightly to stay in line
  12. can anyone explain the bold part?
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