tmckeen

running the same tires longer is alternative to switching to downgraded rubber, I know when I'm pushing the limits of my Q3's life-cycle its much easier to find the limit of its available traction. as to the original question, Off season plans include, adjusting my R6 to accommodate a GPA-Pro Rear tire without it rubbing on the swing arm and hopefully lots seat time on my dirt bike and perhaps committing to a physical training regime, Keith says Pilates is supposed to be great for track riding Tyler

I'd like to see them factor in the total cost of each vehicle, see how the bang for buck stacks up

To expand on my previous point, At Streets Of Willow there is a huge pavement seam in Turn 5, right at the apex that you cross at full lean angle and considerable speed. It's big enough you can make it out on Google maps. One of my fellow corner workers used to regularly complain about loosing his front end there and catching the bike with his knee. At a recent weekend he was complaining about it and I mentioned that I had the complete opposite problem, my front end tracked over it fine, but it would kick my back tire out and at a aggressive pace it would make the bike quite squirmy but nothing unmanageable. He seemed puzzled by this and I explained that I all but completely let go of my clip on's when I go over that seem, 2 fingers on the throttle with just enough pressure to maintain my throttle and nothing more. left hand completely off the grip. He tried using that same technique for a session and suddenly he was having more trouble with his back end than the front. It's not exactly patched pavement, but the concept is the same, be super relaxed and let the bike do what it wants. just like dirt biking in the sand, "fast and loose" let it move around and stay on the gas it will sort itself back out Tyler

Just a thoughts to add, Remember that WOT differs considerable between bikes and even gears. In 2nd gear on my R6, WOT will dance the front tire along on its tippy toes, and I certainly wouldn't consider making and sudden steering inputs or attempting a quick turn with essentially no weight on the front tire, but in 4th WOT leaves enough weight on the front tire I can turn in to the first part of the kink at SoW without rolling off at all. It did however take me many many MANY laps before I worked up the courage to blitz through the kink at high speed.

let go of the bars and let the front end do its thing, whilst staying on the throttle

Here ya go Robert here's a photo of me at my first CSS school, crossed up and straight armed , and yet I just knew I was a amazing rider back then ....

Info about the 2015 YZF-R1 and R1M here http://www.roadracingworld.com/news/yamaha-introduces-two-new-yzf-r1s-that-are-as-close-as-you-can-get-to-a-street-legal-m1-motogp-bike/

yeah. but just wait till the 2016 one comes out, and the 2017, and the 2018 .......

Yes the school has a specific rig designed to allow you to practice holding constant brake pressure while bliping the throttle, it's a a neat set up, while I haven't actually been coached on it, I have sat on the thing and played around with it

Pressure gauges are designed to be used in industrial applications, so we're not exactly talking about your grandmothers fine bone china here. You can certainly expect it to withstand light jostling and minor bumps and drops, getting a protective rubber casing will improve the durability of the unit as well. Now that doesn't mean you can use it as a hammer or as a shim to level your trailer. The most common source of damage that affects functionality is the result of over pressurization. Digital gauges should be a little more resilient to this because a transducer isn't as susceptible to over pressure conditions as the Bordon tube in a analog gauge. But trying to test the air pressure in the tires of a 747 with your 50 psi motorcycle gauge will probably break it regardless of the brand or design,

I used to do 100% clutch less shifting on my street bike (FZ-1) but never really got comfortable with it on my track bike, I found that when I would occasionally miss the blip and not get the downshift I would totally blow the corner, so I went back to dumping the clutch and letting the slipper do its thing, I rather like the rear end wiggle that results from it, AFAIK my slipper is still the stock one that everyone complains about, but it works great for me. At the end of the day it's all about whats most comfortable for you, I remember a quote from my lvl 1 school, that is basically A rider that is comftorable with a imperfect line will be faster than a rider on the perfect line that isnt comftorable with it

Your not the only one waiting on this, I can't plan my summer vacation for 2015 till I get a look at the schools schedule later this month

+1 for the base layer, I've only pulled the mesh out of my leathers for cleaning one time in the few years i've been using them, I have a 2 piece set from A Stars and from Under Armour, I prefer the underarmour one myself, but sure why just do. also a trick I have for cleaning it at the track when i'm there for 4 day stints, I use 5 gallon buckets of water for canopy weights, one has a small amount of laundry detergent in it, hand wash in one, rinse in 2 others, then hang dry overnight, fresh base layer every morning as for cleaning my gloves and suit, I use simple green and a rag, it cleans just about anything

Asterix, questions for ya, Is it possible to Wheelie the bike while still carrying lean angle ?? If a combination of speed and lean angle results in a mathematical radius, when one remains constant and the other increases what must happen to the radius ? the centripetal force being applied to the front tire by the road surface is applied in what axis of the bike ? the deceleration force being applied to the front tire is in what axis of the bike ?

Hey, welcome to the forums Mick, what all tracks do you ride down there ?

Come to streets next year and spend a day getting sucked into the bowl at high speed, you'll have your right turns sorted out in no time

pretty much all digital gauges will come with a zero function, its mostly to compensate for drift in the transducer, but it can adjust for major changes in barometric pressure or changes in altitude, its quite common for large form factor test gauges to have a adjustable dial to allow you to do this as well, this is to ensure that the pressure inside whatever your measuring is relative to the actual atmospheric pressure outside it, but its not relevant to motorcycle tires so the short answer is no, its not a factor While barometric pressure can vary a bit, so can changing elevation, its not a linear scale but I believe to start every 6500 ft of elevation drops the atmospheric pressure about 3 psi and that value tapers off the higher you go, compared to going from 28 to 31 on a barometer which is only about 1.4 PSI of difference in atmospheric pressure its also good to understand the difference between PSIG and PSIA, A PSIA gauge displays pressure relative to absolute vacuum while a PSIG gauge displays pressure relative to one atmosphere at sea level ( 14.7 PSI ), so when you put 30 PSI of air in your tire its 30 PSI more than atmospheric pressure at sea level, and 44.7 PSI more than a true vacuum, pretty much every pressure gauge your ever going to come across is going to be a PSIG gauge This would all be very important if we were riding around on balloon's which will change size based on the atmospheric pressure and maintain a equilibrium between the elasticity of the balloon, the atmosphere around it, and the pressure inside it. However the carcass of a tire is a pretty hardy thing and its not depending on the atmospheric pressure to hold its shape or maintain that equilibrium, much like a pressurized airplane, the changes in atmospheric pressure wont be noticed on the inside of the tire, I'm sure with VERY precise equipment you could detect minor changes in tire pressure, but like comparing your tire pressures with the bike on stands ( no load on the tires ) and the bike on its wheels ( ~200 Lbs per tire ) this is a pretty insignificant factor Make sense ?

Cobie, do you mean Pressure gauges in general ? or tire pressure gauges ? I mean if you want high accuracy http://www.transcat.com/catalog/productdetail.aspx?itemnum=30-2089-SD-02L-60 is pretty much as accurate as your gonna get in a 3" form factor ( Accurate to +/- 0.03 PSI ) Middle of the road but still digital would be something like http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/SinglePressure/Gages-Digital/SeriesDPGA-DPGW ( 50 psi model accurate to +/- 0.5 PSI ) or the super cheap option http://www.grainger.com/product/MILJOCO-Pressure-Gauge-6MRP6?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP ( accurate to +/- 1.2 PSI supposedly ) Again the real question I think is, How accurate do you need it to be, if 1-2 psi changes are unnoticeable by the average rider, do you need a gauge that's accurate to half a PSI ? It all comes down to you get what you pay for, 12$ junk from china probably wont last, but it might, I've seen brand new Torque Wrenches from Snap ON that were out of spec, and beat up old Harbor Freight specials that were still dead on, it's not common, but it can happen. I'd still recommend a 300$ CDI over a Harbor Freight wrench any day though

sorry I've been a little busy and haven't had a chance to respond to this, One of the key things that CSS teaches is to always have a good solid lock on the tank with your lower body, this allows you to move around the bike and support your upper body without using the clip on's at all, very similar to the video you posted. The technique taught by CSS is to push your outside knee and thigh up into the tank by lifting your outside foot, by obtaining a good solid lock with your outside leg you can limit the weight you support with your inside foot and the fatigue that supporting all you weight in that manner can cause. I personally do not use a foot position that pivots my heel into the swing arm, I used to wrench my heel up against the plate on my rear set but found that caused more fatigue in my calf's than it was worth and I no longer do that. this is really going to be a personal feel kind of thing, you have to find what works best for you and your bike. I would recommend you try finding a good solid locked on position and set up for the corner and wrench your knee into the tank BEFORE your steering input

That record was set during a WSMC round, so that's going to be with the skid pad configuration, not the CSS chicanes setup I believe Joe's personal best back then was in the 1:17 range, which should give you a idea of just how fast a 1:14 is

So, Highly Accurate, and Inexpensive do not go hand in hand, the real question is, how accurate do you need your tire pressure gauge to be, is accurate to +/- 1 PSI enough for you, 2 PSI ? 0.015 PSI ? If your gauge doesn't list it's accuracy, the generic accuracy for analog gauges is +/- 1 minor division on the gauge The most important factor is that it be repeatable, even if your gauge is 3 PSI low as long as its always the same 3 PSI low you can consistently set your tires for the pressure you like. Also once you have a decent Air Chuck, you can replace the gauge on top of it with any brand or quality of pressure gauge, like the swivel hose on your 20$ model but the gauge is junk ? replace the gauge with a more accurate one and your set. Digital gauges which work off a transducer should generally last longer and be more accurate that analog one's with a Bordon tube in them, but over ranging them will result in damage regardless of the gauge style. Depending on the brand, digital gauges usually have a zero and span adjustment and can be calibrated multiple times to adjust for age, the only option for the majority of analog gauges is removal and adjustment of the needle. and like ALL measurement equipment, it's only good if you have it calibrated periodically Tyler

that's seriously cool stuff, but just to confirm for any potential students looking for this at the school, The Camera Bike V2.0 is still only available for students at 2 Day Camps correct ??

So I'm a little confused by your response, Your setting up for the corner before you initiate your steering input, but you don't dig your knee into the gas tank until after you steer the bike ? How do you support your upper body weight ? If feasible, can you put the bike on stands, shift into your mid corner body position and let go of the clip on's entirely ?

I do better than 2 to 1 with the Q3's , 8 days on the track and about 6000 freeway miles afterwards for the rear

OK so a question for you based on your scenario, I assume for #5 by push on the handle bar you mean steer the bike, Why do you do this before you lock onto the bike with your left thigh ?