Alfred.Rodriguez

I just had another 1-day session at SOW yesterday - Level 3. And for this time, I requested for lap times. However, I would see that the Superbike School's track has a switch-back at the end, which is NOT in the "regular" configuration... So, bumping this thread up - how would one gauge the lap times between a regular track day and the CSS session for CW...? Same question as above, how much time does the switch-back would take, on average? Cheers!

Hi Dylan Nice video on the foot position when hanging off... And I thought I was strange when I did it that way... Here is a photo of me about 2-years back. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10697702/FootPosition-KneeDown.JPG Been doing it then, and still doing it now. I dont know - but personally, it feels more comfortable, and that I could open my leg wider/extend me knee further. Cheers!

Yeah - let us setup one... Would be a informative discourse... Update: Created a new thread: http://forums.superbikeschool.com/index.php?showtopic=3759

Not necessarily! When you start out, it will indeed cost you $10.00 of your credit! However, with practice, and indeed in the world of racing (and real life applications, as well) – maybe it will just cost the rider a few cents (also highlighted in the TOTW1 DVD). As per regrouping for the turn – could be, it makes sense when you are just tracking. But in a race, does blowing a corner really make sense? Or in the twisties?Just because your Wide View is so good that you may NOT require hard braking (just before the ABS kicks in), does it mean that I don't need to practice it to the point of making it cheap for me? If you risk a rear tire slip, wouldn't it be good to have this technique in your bag of tricks make sense? Note: I actually had an experience when cornering in the twisties that I down shifted too much, and on a SANDY patch. Instead of risking a tire slip/skid and/or lowslide - I just modulated the clutch to compensate...

It is not part of L1 and L2 (as those are just the levels Ive taken)... Though a short discourse on it is found at the TOTW2 DVD... Pretty much - rev matching with the clutch is not recommended. If you have to do it, do it in the lower range, ie., maybe not more than 2,000. However, in race/track sessions, it is a valuable tool to have in your cabinet of tricks. Say, you are coming in to a corner in high-revs, and you made a wrong shift (your blip was either too strong or too weak, etc.), learning to modulate through the clutch (sometimes open/closing a few mms around the "meet poinyt") is your only recourse to avoid a mishap. Could anyone else chime in on this? On the other hand, knowing how to do brake/blip/shift is nice when you come into the lessons/Levels. There are corners that, when allowed by your coaches to go "full brakes and full gears," FUN to take in...

Hi guys! Sorry for the long hiatus - was busy with work the previous weeks. I did get to (again) try clutchless up-short-shifting; just to make sure I wasnt in my pajamas when I made that previous post... And YES - it is indeed possible. I went 1st to 5th on my 2011 Ninja 1000. Albeit, I have to start off with high revs at first because there wouldnt be any RPMs left by the time I get to the higher gears. All done with a single roll off, a long one at that...

Heree in Tokyo, I take the subway to work. Tomorrow, about 12-hrs, from now, Ill get the chance to take my bike out... Ill see if I can break down the steps. The technique is quite over in a split moment, so, quite difficult to put it into words. Ill let my right hand and left foot feel it out...

Longer roll off the throttle, and just shift _straight_ up to 5th. Albeit, you'd be very low in the revs in 5th compared when you started in 2nd...

Based on your posts, I think you are doing it right... But like any skill, it takes time and practice to become proficient and smooth. If it takes but just a few days to master braking and downshifting, most of us should Pros by now... Some pointers, though: - Practice with the higher gears - Brake first (priority is braking NOT the downshift) - Downshift at the lower RPM range (around 3K to 4K) - this reduces the engine braking and makes it easier to do the technique (while you aree still learning), ie., blips... - Do NOT practice with the objective of getting into the higher RPM range and/or the Power Band after the shift - learn the technique first. - Good technique first - smoothness and quickness will come later - Do NOT pull the clutch all the way in (all you require is as far as the "clutch meet point") Have fun!

I dont know how others learn the brake and downshift - but I first practiced with the higher gears. Once I got the hang of it, then I work on the 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 1st. BTW, some other stuff that Ive learned from experience: - During shifts (excluding starting from full stop), you dont need to pull in the clutch lever all the way. Near halfway would suffice to disconnect the engine from the train. - You could also do clutchless downshifts! (recommended to be tried only at low REVs) Cheers! PS: Best not to rush the exercise. As done in CSS, 75% of your ability, and concentrate on one thing at a time...

Hhhhmmm... Just something to share, a comparison shot between TOTW1 (Keith Code) and TOTW2 (I dont know who the rider is): Indeed has riding technology evolved with bike technology...

Here are mine... 2-years' riding experience (no track days / CSS was my first)... With my current bike, a Kawasaki Ninja 1000: Day #1 of a 2-Day Camp in Las Vegas: Day #2 of a 2-Day Camp in Las Vegas: