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anthem

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Everything posted by anthem

  1. I can only recommend that you go in with no pre-conceived notions of what you think is right/wrong way to ride on a track and let them teach you and you learn and figure it out.
  2. A - I think too many people put the concept of the comfort of riding your own bike too high. They want to work on skills and those same drills are the same regardless of which bike you are on. It doesn't become relevant until you are talking race times and want to get better on the bike that you might be racing on in an upcoming event or something. If you are making metric ton improvements it doesn't matter what you are riding. almost zero chance at Laguna. Laguna has strict sound limits. They don't want to bother with students coming with their own bikes what if you get black flagged
  3. they have to pass tech inspection. If you have never been to a track day, you may want to look at that (lights taped, plate removed, mirrors removed/taped, etc etc)
  4. If you are looking for good lap timers (10hz capablity) - some good ones that I have used are starlane (www.starlane.com) and aim sports (aim-sportline.com). Both are top notch and expandable to data acquisition as well.
  5. I would recommend that you look into Foremost. They cover track days as long as its not a timed event (racing). .. I haven't made a claim, but they have been good to deal with, with all the bikes I have. I can't use progressive because they won't cover certain sportbikes (especially newer superbike models), so I dropped them and went to foremost.
  6. if you have the trailer restraint, then you will be fine. You can probably lean over on each side as far as you want with no stability issues. However, the bike obviously won't be leaning while you're leaned over on each side.
  7. Also, in response to the above poster about slipper clutches and blipping - thats what I have unfortunately gotten accustomed to doing with my slipper. .. However, I have been admonished that I should still be blipping on the way down (even with the slipper) to match revs to the gear. Basically the slipper while able to not throw you off or lose you traction, its purpose is not to match revs while downshifting and you're always better off to match revs while downshifting or downshifting/braking.
  8. I disagree with much of your post. I used to ride Q2's and now ride almost exclusively GPA's. The GPA provides equal or better traction as a Q2, except in wet conditions owing to less siping on the GPA, regardless the respective operating temperature. A GPA at 130 deg is not less traction than a Q2 at 130 deg and it does not take any longer to heat up a GPA than a Q2. From what I have seen, this is mythology perpetuated by riders making other mistakes and blaming it on the tires - Steve has refuted this notion repeatedly and my experience matches his comments. None of this is a criticism
  9. I think your second part essentially hit the nail on the head. . . basically the d211 any any temperature will give equal traction as the q2 and the the d211 will give more traction as it heats up. . . I would imagine this to be the case essentially from any moderate temperature on up. This might not be the case in 40 degree weather and just starting out, but anything say at 60 degrees on up - the two are probably going to give essentially the same. . Between the two, I think he's saying when you lose traction of one over the other is not based on temperature between the two. N
  10. if you get them wet - leather will stretch a bit, but not too much. Kangaroo will not stretch much at all, or at least it stretches less than cowhide. Some people will jump in a shower to stretch the suit out but I wouldn't advise on doing that. . . I usually put a suit on and walk around the house for an hour or so. .. do this several times looking like a dork and suffering the mockery that the rest of your family gives you. That will at least get you comfortable with the suit and the suit will stretch a little (maybe a half size). .. In a way you want a suit that you can still
  11. Andy - are you a "standard size" fit for most of these sizes ? If you are then you can get off the shelf suits. If not, then you might have to look at custom suits. . I find that with most of these - the better two options that most know about (and mid way up their line) being Dainese and A* are both very good options. A* Laguna Seca on up and Dainese mid level on up both satisfy most people's idea of a good safe suit. . Some other brands to consider are Held and Rev'It which both make very nice suits as well at a slightly better price.. . You can also spend more and get a lot more
  12. Wow, that says it all. . . CSS Head of instruction is obviously wrong. CSS instructors don't know what they are talking about. There must not be any point to go to school either. . . . Not sure the Socratic method of teaching would even work. . . I'm going to say this - EVERYBODY ELSE but one is "right" and I know it.
  13. Uh - that's not what you said. Maybe that's what you meant to say but certainly not what you did. "How they got more hp out of the bike" when in fact they got none. And I don't think you want to get I to Internet etiquette with me. I put it in bold for emphasis. I think its best I bow out of this. Good luck with your progression and I hope you find the enlightenment you are looking for. I will suggest that you should perhaps listen to the instructors who have been giving you very good advice that you appear to be ignoring.
  14. Do you see the difference here ? I heard/read/saw the same thing McKeen did. You seem to have seen a completely different video. . . Your focused on this increasing horsepower concept, but the video said exactly opposite of that. They didn't add ANY horsepower from using the tunnel. To me, they explained how they used wind tunnel testing to get more aerodynamic, and that tucking your elbows in by 1/2" could gain you 3mph, which was like getting more horsepower. They didn't get more hp nor add to it but used better body positioning to achive a more aerodynamic shape at faster spe
  15. Not what I got - but then let me ask this - are you doing ANYTHING he said he had to do to be competitive or get to "remains to be seen" ? As far as I know, you are looking at LOWERING when he clearly he said he had to RAISE the bike. Then he said he had to shorten the bike which I doubt you'll be doing either.. . So based on that - I don't see how you are getting anywhere closer, but yet claim to be already beyond someone else on a s1000 as is right now.. . .
  16. And I'll point out some points from that video - -he can come /close/ to his previous times on the superbike class. . . So after doing all of that, he can take an unlimited bike close to the superbike class that has limits. . . If he's telling you with all those modifications he can only get close to his previous superbike - what should that say ? That a talented rider like that realizes that he can only get close. -Notice the changes that were made ? Raising the bike to get more ground clearance which is completely counter to what you said you were going to do. And at the same
  17. Your right, but I and probably everyone else so far is telling you that no matter what you do to the Hayabusa, it will be at a disadvantage to a BMW S1Krr or something along those lines. You're using street examples to justify your positioning which makes no sense. . So a lowered turbo busa. I threw the lengthening in there for added effect and more illustrate a point. Honestly no one here cares what kind of bike you want or I want or you have or I have. We're discussing around the concepts irrespective of the actual bikes. It doesn't matter if you had a Harley, Hayabusa, or a gold
  18. No, its not about that at all. . . There are people who will bring harley's onto a track. I had a friend with a V-rod who knew he could lean over much further going left than right because of exhaust clearance on that bike. Kind of dangerous in that going hard right would lever the rear wheel and low side, but he was conscious of that. But its not about the bike - its about your realization that and adamant position that your lowered turbo hayabusa is better around a track than more worthy track bikes. The busa is fine around a track - but a lowered, lenghthened, hot rod turbo busa is not
  19. Kind of funny - seven people, with two being CSS instructors essentially telling someone with zero track experience that all things being equal in skills that you'll be faster on a S1000 type of track bike than a lowered, hot rod turbo Hayabusa and yet you'll continue to say equal skill with another rider and you'll dust another rider on an S1000rr with your hot rodded hayabusa. . amazing Ok I should add se content - all things being equal, the s1000rr rider should be able to carry more speed into the corner, carry more speed through the corner and be able to get on the gas sooner to be e
  20. It's not the strength of your assertions, its as you say "never been on a track", but you seem to know whats best when others are telling/hinting at otherwise. . You had two CSS instructors pretty much tell you otherwise (subtly), but you absolutely won't believe them. . . Strange. I go to class to learn. They tell me what to do and I go out and try to do it. But I'm certainly not challenging them on it and telling them I'm right and they are wrong. To each their own. I hope you go to the session and see what everyone here is talking about. Maybe it will be enlightening.
  21. You're just not getting it.. . . Plain and simple - You don't have the ability to harness the power that is on the Hayabusa around a track. And even and when you do - the limitations of the hayabusa will come into play where other bikes will easily exceed it. And in answer to your questions - for instance at Laguna, there is only a couple seconds (2.xx) between the superbikes of AMA and the experimental prototype MotoGP bikes. Here is some laptimes from a couple years ago . MotoGP - 1:21.376 Casey Stoner AMA Superbike - 1:24.691 Josh Hayes AMA Pro Sportbike - 1:27.586 Martin Card
  22. Everyone hear has been giving you good advice and information. As I said before - I think you're not allowing yourself to be opened to a different world of riding but "stuck" in this go fast in a straight line mentality. . . You keep mentioning that you're an avid student/learner yet you're completely stuck in your drag strip hot'rodded bike as being the best end-all. . . What your missing from what everyone is telling you is that when you go to these schools, they are going to be pushing beyond where you've gone before. If you've read Keith's books, you should know about survival react
  23. I think mentally you're heading in the wrong direction. . it's not about the "fastest" bike. It's about the fastest "rider" around a particular track. If you want the "fastest" bike - define the terms of what/where you want fastest ? Right now you're strictly talking straight line. Because no matter how you configure a Hayabusa, it will not be the fastest bike around the tracks that they ride on. It /might/ on a long oval, or predominantly straight track, or on a long airport strip - but not around a track. .. So you keep saying you don't care about curves or circles etc - but then wh
  24. Honestly - I think CSS would be happier training on 250 or 600cc bikes. But the S1000rr is just so much "sexier" and "desirable" for potential track attendees so it makes sense. .. But as students, everyone would be better off on 600cc bikes in school. . . And HP isn't everything. They are training a 16yo kid on a 250cc that is faster than 99.9 percent (yeah 1 out of 1000) of people on liter bikes. He'll run circles around you even if you had a turbo that could add 100hp onto your hayabusa. . .
  25. There is a huge difference between "knowing" and "doing". . . I know a lot of things in certain areas but that doesn't necessarily mean I can execute it. . . I don't think anyone is underestimating anyone. People are giving their opinions and that is it. . If you want to be a better rider - go attend the schools. The schools teachings are irrespective of type of bike you own. Nothing wrong with going to be a better rider and going back to riding whatever it is you own (Hayabusa, Harley's, superbikes or mopeds). If you want to build the best drag bike you can - go for it. If y
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