anthem
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Posts posted by anthem
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While helmets may not go bad after a certain date, I would not say there isn't a "lifespan" to them. 5 years is a good average life for them. Now that 5 years might be different if it hasn't been worn vs worn every day. If you wear it every day - with heat, sweat, moisture, etc - I can see where the styrofoam inside the helmet might be impacted vs a non-used 5 year old helmet. . . So I can't say age doesn't play any factor in an helmet. ..
I will agree with everyone else here - try on all the major brands and see which one fits your head. There are various shapes of helmets that fit certain heads better than others. After a certain dollar amount - they all kind of protect your head above a certain measured threshold. After that - some might be better than others but there is no standard of testing that I would unequivocally go by. Many people swear by Snell outside of DOT and EC certifications - but there has been a lot of controversy around Snell that the helmet manufacturers have been actively trying to cover up. The m2010 Snell standard by all accounts is robust - however, the m2005 standard is supposedly frought with issues. Several people tried to point that out and were fired (or advertising budgets pulled if they reported on it) or muffled. On top of that - when the "new" 2010 standard came out, they didn't want to offend existing manufacturers that had 2005 certified helmets so they made the new labeling intentionally misleading. So the once reliable "snell certified" label is a bit suspect (I guess you should always trace back to who supports the organization).
Anyhow in terms of quality - most of the top end helmet manufacturers made decent lids. personally, I am not a fan of AGV Rossi helmets as I think they are not as good as the other top end manufacturers for the same price (probably due to them having to pay Rossi absurd amounts
. Also, the top end helmets from Arai, Shoei, AGV, Shark, Suomy all are quite noisy. You would think they are quiet - but to achieve ventilation, it involves more opennings and more openings mean more sound. The exception to that might be the Schuberth SR1 which I am quite impressed with (just received). Still doesn't ventilate as well as the Arai Corsair V series though. -
There isn't too much really close and around LS and I don't believe that there is any lodging on track. You generally go toward one or two (possibly more/further during MotoGP) - areas. . . If you prefer to go cheaper - you head toward Salina. If you don't mind paying a bit more, around Monterey, and if want to pay a bit more then stay in Monterey. Monterey is a nice small seaside town, lots of bars/restaurants, etc. . . Hear the seals in the morning/evening, etc. You could also go a bit further and stay in Carmel - another gorgeous small quaint town that has lots of small shops (you won't have time to visit), bars, and restaurants.
I have no idea where CSS stays when they are in LS. I do know that they don't stay on track at VIR when they go there which makes no sense at all to me. They could easily lock up the paddock area or a floor at the Lodge and it would be a lot more convenient but they choose to stay in Danville (18 miles away). Maybe its cost, maybe its because they want a few more facilities available to them. Who knows, but to me thats kind of crazy :-).
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You're probably going to be around a 44 or 46 (or Euro 54, 56) depending upon cut and style of suit. The problem is that some of the Euro or japanese sizing at 56, might expect someone to be 6'2" tall and have the knee protectors a bit 'off' than where they should be for 1 pc suits.
1 pc vs 2 pc ? Well, a 2pc will be more "convenient:" to use day to day and you can use it on the track if it zips around. And you want to make sure you wear your gear, otherwise its useless. So you may want to consider that as a primary option. If you have available funds and will be going to the track (or CSS classes) often - then a 1pc certainly is better. You can also rent 1pc suits at CSS.
I would get the best gloves and boots you can afford. What you can afford is up to you. In my opinion - not something you want to skimp on. The feet get damaged the easiest in an "event" and is the most difficult to repair or recover from.
I wear back protector all the time with my 1pc or 2pc suits. But that just my choice.
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The local organizer asked me to forward this site, for anyone interested. This school comes under the Australian Branch of the Superbike School, they will be supplying the manpower and coaches.
www.superhdmoto.com
Best,
CF
Is the class going to be in Chinese, Taiwanese or English ? The site is entirely in Chinese so makes me wonder. .. That many Aussie or Aussie Chinese coaches to go and teach that class ?
And did you check out the pictures down below on that site you just linked to ? Are those pictures of students/teachers of the school. . If so, you might have a lot more riders stepping up to take the class there (or at least male riders
. Wow. -
I found the article and although this section doesn't talk about the torque curve per se, it does describe it's performance.
Kevin Ash in the Telegraph writes: "The engine churns slowly before exploding into life, the ride-by-wire throttle response electric and compelling. The sound is unmistakably Ducati twin, but with a more urgent edge and a willingness to rev not seen – or heard – before. With it comes a little less low and mid-range thrust than the 1198, followed by a massive lunge forward as all 192bhp (a 25bhp increase over the 1198) come flooding in. Yet while the Ducati is a fraction more powerful than its rival from BMW, it doesn't have quite the missile thrust at the very top end which so distinguishes the German bike."
My vote for the Panigale was on sound alone; as for aesthetics, your choice is hard to argue with but I have always be partial to his 916/996/998 series myself; but then I am a Ducati guy what else can I say.
Here is the funny thing - the 1199 engine (in base factory gearing) compared to the 1198 - it is below the 1198 in torque almost linearly until about the 8k rpm level. Then it just stomps on it. So I can see how people are saying its more "like an i4:" because it has absurd amounts of torque/hp in the upper ranges where a lot of i4's really shine. It's rev-limit is still at 11500, so comparing against those 13-14k rpm machines is still a bit different. . I can see where people make the comparisons - but the difference is that its still a monster torque machine down lower - just not killing the 1198 (its predecessor) in that area. So I think a lot of writers are writing about that just from reading charts.
As compared to the BMW - the S1000RR really lives up high. Its a monster i4 and basically everything about is a monster. It doesn't have monster torque down low, but it just keeps delivering to its redline.,
On sound alone - the Panigale is a brute and great sounding bike. I think I like the 1098R exhaust note just a bit better. A bit more "raw" and "nasty". Both kill the BMW aurally but thats not what BMW addresses at all. If you want to hear a great sounding i4, go listen to the MV A F4 - - kind of bordering on the sound of a Ferrari Challenge Strradale.
It does seem to be doing well and I personally think it is a very nice looking bike but then I also liked (sry Kai) the 999 so what do I know
. I have toyed with the idea of trading my K1200R in on a new S1000RR so I have considered the Panigale. It is a bit more money but not absurdly so (for the base at least). Sadly the Duc dealer in this area doesn't have a demo machine set up so I cant ride one right now (they cant get enough of them to justify it so that would support your assertion Rain - they are selling well). Along the line of this thread, I have a question for you guys. Would you feel comfortable buying one of the school's retired 2010's S1000RRs? There are a few left and they range in miles from 20-23K. They have been ridden hard but you know they have been maintained well. It's an option that would make for a very nice second bike.
Thoughts?
I would say that Ducati has been so far successful. There are very very few 1199's available. Ducati is still only delivering to people on the waiting list. The only ones on the floor are ones that buyers backed out of due to lack of insurance or financing. I have to tip my hat off to Ducati for trying (reasonably successful) in trying to make sure everyone who was on the waiting list gets delivery before bikes somehow started showing up on dealer floors. Thats commendable on their part. The question is how successful they will be in the long term with this bike ? Tough to say. Personally I think they'll be fine. It's as good or better than the previous model and it looks pretty damn nice (outside of the elk ears which can be removed). The 1098/1198 is/was a great looking bike until you put it up next to a 1199. And the Ducati people who have the previous bikes all want the '99. It's not like people are saying - hate the new bike, I am buying the 1198S. . . . Unfortunately very few dealerships have an 1199 you can ride to test out.
Now, in terms of the S1000RR from the school. Well - you would think that they take a huge beating, but they take really really good care of them. They do have 20K miles and not sure what the schools asking - but at least you know the service has been taken care of on all of those bikes. If its a good price - then I imagine you'll have a top performing bike with all the kinks worked out of it. I like riding the S1000RR at the school and would have no qualms about getting one of their used ones in terms of maintenance/etc. The s1000RR just doesn't do it for me in terms of other things I want from a bike.
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You might want to ask the instructors at CSS what they think of the Panigale. I saw some of them take a 1199, S1000RR and a 98R around the track and they were pretty much dead even through the track. It comes down to type of track, type of rider, and most important - ability and familiarity of the bike to the rider. I doubt 99.9% of the riders can extract the difference in performance of these bikes.
In terms of power delivery - everyone is saying the 1199 is like an I4 rather than a traditional 2. I'm not so sure about that. The 1199 delivers power pretty much throughout the entire power band, but has another kick at the 8k+ rpm level where some of the older Duc's did not. It pulls faster/stronger than every single other Duc out there across almost the entire band outside of an ever so small area vs the 1098R. So if you're using the 98R as an example to compare against, yeah, it loses out a few N-m in a couple thousand rpm. So kind of irrelevant. . .
I would disagree on the 7th day assertion though. I think the most stunning bike visually is the Tamburini designed MV Agusta F4. . might not be the highest performing one, but geez is that a gorgeous bike.
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I should add - I have ridden the BMW S1000RR on the track with CSS and friends who have the bike. . . I have never said it wasn't a great bike. I just wouldn't buy one. There are a lot of bikes I would acquire before I'd get that one. I'd have a Ducati Panigale S, F4 RR, 1098R, even the 848Evo, Aprila RSV4, possibly a Motus or whatever. I would get one before I got a CBR or something (and not knocking that bike either). Just saying its Teutonic and lacks a "soul" for /me/.
And as I said - the Porsche is a great car to drive. but you get a different feeling if you are driving a Ferrari Scuderia or as you mentioned the Lamborhini. The feeling is a lot more visceral. . .
but always glad to have the choice.
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We've all heard the stories about someone claiming to deliberately have 'laid the bike down' to avoid an accident, right?
Complete and utter BS. Bike went down because the rider panicked and locked up the brakes. Period. Sliding on asphalt towards an immovable object is not the preferred way to avoid hitting said object. Keeping the bike upright, under maximum braking is.
Actually there were/are people who /were/ trained to slide the bike down in a panic situation like that. This might be 20+ years ago as nowadays its better to reduce speed and keep traction with current day brakes and tires. Mostly in law enforcement where they are taught this and actually do it. I know a few people who have put a few bikes down this way in the past. It becomes instinct to them since they are trained this way. They know that this isn't the case these days with modern tech in brakes/wheels/etc. So I don't agree it would be "complete and utter BS" from everybody.
That being said - the BMW S1000RR is a great bike. It has modern tech and is just an overall great bike. My issue with the BMW is that its just that - its a BMW. Its german and teutonic. Some like it that way, but its just not me. It performs better than the majority of all bikes, but it just doesn't move the soul for me. And I prefer bikes (and cars) that move the soul and stir a reaction. . . I equate the BMW S1000RR to like a Mercedes AMG S55, BMW M5, Porsche 911. All great performing cars and all near the top in performance. But I'm going to buy a bike that will move my soul - so I would end up with a Ducati PanigaleS or MV Agusta F4R/RR or something along those lines. Yeah - the BMW s1000rr might out perform it (though they are all close), just like a 911 Turbo outperforms most other cars, but the feeling is just different. With cars, it would be like the Porsche 911 vs say a Ferrari, Lambo or Aston.
The good thing is that most of these manufacturers all have traction control and ABS on their bikes. Which means at least the bike will try and save your arse a little when you get into more trouble than you should be. . ..
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I have a v-rod as well and I think its actually more dangerous now after taking the school than before. . . Thinking seriously of selling it as I've had a few "oh ######" moments when riding the harley thinking it has enough clearance for a moderate turn when in fact it doesn't. The V&H exhaust scrapes well before the pegs do and its quite scary as you think it'll lever the rear wheel off and remove traction on a corner. But if you take the class in it and not ride the S1000 or a sportbike - then that should be better. I'm just commenting that its difficult to ride a V-rod /and/ say a Ducati/BMW/etc.
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I like how you qualify it as the "school's mechanic" :-). Will isn't just some mechanic, as I've seen him ride. If she has any bit of his genetic composition - she's going to be fast, like real fast. . . If I could borrow some of that mechanical or riding skill, I'd be doing great. . ..
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Im bringing this thread back because it is extreemly revelant. I found myself lacking visability when looking up from a tuck and really having to wrench my neck and lift my shoulders to get any view looking up. On my own I added foam to the crown of my bucket. After reading this thread Im gonna re do it with sticky foam and build it up a tad more. My original modification helped a ton but it has compressed and I need to use different material. I dont have a freaky shaped head and most mediums fit well. I just need to get the lid higher on my brow.
I've done that as well. Just make sure your foam doesn't cover up the vent holes at the top of the helmet where alot of these channel air through. ..
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..............One that I only recently understood was that tyres actually have more rubber on the ground, and more traction when on the side of the tyre than when on the centre!.................
I really love your posts Mugget, but I would like you extending your explanation of the quoted statement.
Here is a good article for the OP to read:
The contact patch when leaned over is larger, but there is not more traction. There are more forces(different directions) acting upon that contact patch that takes away from traction.
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My fantasy is to have a top brand of protection, but custom fit...wonder if anyone does that for regular punters?
CF
Cobie = what size glove (or I should say - what size hands you have) do you wear that you would need custom ? Do you have brutish hands with no fingers ?
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Did you ever ride a road cruiser during your 150K miles ? If you did - then part of your hesitation might be related to all those miles where you were riding a bike that had limited ground clearance (namely pegs and exhaust). If you've ridden say a Harley for many years and you know you have limited ground clearance on the right because of the exhaust (or footpegs) that could jack your rear wheel off - then yes, that thought might sit with you while you're on a track trying to determine how far you can lean over.
I actually still have my harley and have two problems - one) when riding the track bike of how far I can lean, and
when I'm riding my Harley I'm constantly worried about tipping it over too far and scraping pegs/exhaust. . . Probably need to get rid of the lesser performing one. . .. -
Okay...but I'm still not getting much in the way of advice, except "think about the turn and not about your tires". How do I stop the alarm bells from going off when I reach that higher lean angle? How do I convince myself that I can carry 45 degrees of lean or more around a slow corner and not lowside? What is a good method to build up my confidence?
I was (and still am) in a similar boat as you. Went to take the 2 day class and it has helped tremendously. I think class notwithstanding - you certainly don't want to try this on most roads. I would say you need to go to a track to try this as most tracks, if you hit the "oh sh$t" pucker factor, you have enough room to straighten up and stop safely.
Now, in terms of cornering - once they positioned my body a bit , I found that I felt better and better going around corners. That the bike felt planted when going around. Also, as you keep going around the track and develop the same repetitive skills of quick turning in and giving it throttle once you've leaned in (over and over and over again) - you gain confidence with each lap knowing you aren't near the traction limits. Half this battle is confidence, and while I have some, it is nowhere near where the traction limits are yet. I do find that more of the "oh ######" moments in a corner when it comes to lean angle arise from a lazy turn in (not quickly turning in and then moving to the apex and accelerating out). I think its because you turn in, and then you feel the need to turn in some more and then some more. So not only are you not at the proper lean angle, you're worried about too much lean angle, or traction, or a steering input during the turn, or not able to get on the gas to even the suspension of the bike early enough, etc. So if I get the right turn in the first time, I'm at the proper lean angle for the corner and turn and then I don't have that same panic in mid-turn. I also find that giving it throttle such that the bike is properly weighted during the turn makes the bike a /lot/ more stable during the turn and there is less pucker factor during the turn. If you aren't giving it gas, then your bike has more weight on the front tire (and probably front handlebars which aren't supposed to be carrying weight) and you're worried whether that front tire traction is going to hold. <end rambling thought>
That being said - I don't get it right more than I get it wrong, so still a lot more things to work in.
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Did the two day with you guys at VIR. Enjoyed it immensely. Need some remedial training - so going to meet up with you guys on some of the west coast tracks next month.
VIR was a first time for me - that roller coaster was pure fun and a great experience. Still couldn't quite get to throttling up on the last turn into the straight when it felt like the bike was bottoming out as you were barreling down that hill and around that last turn.
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For protection my best recommendations are Held Titan gloves. Held phantoms are nice one step down but Titans are awesome. for slightly shorter cuff if you don't want the full gauntlet, the Heroic Racing SPR-Pro Short is an excellent glove at the price they are charging ($160 instead of $300 for the full gauntlet). It's like a 1/4 gauntlet (not even half), so some wrist protection, but you get the full stingray sliders, etc. The Spidi Carbo Track is also pretty nice.
If you want waterproof, the protection drops off significantly from the race gloves. The Held warm 'n' dry are warm and waterproof. I've worn them 3+ hours in pouring rain without anything getting in them. I'm sure Rukka makes some waterproof gloves as well since they specialize in weather/water proofing.
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I don't have many track sessions under my belt, but I will tell you what will really help. Forget working out everything as we would all like to do that. Just get on a stationary exercise bike (not a regular bike) and work out for 10 minutes (and hopefully moving to 20) and go for harder and harder resistance levels. I try and get to about level 14 on these stationary (bikes) for that time duration. Once you can get to that type of resistance (I got there in a 2-3 weeks) and I'm carrying at least 30lbs more than I should be - you'll feel your legs much easier to push off the pegs and move around the bike,.
Now, ideally you are fit everywhere, but I found that biking on a stationary bike with resistance got me comfortable with moving myself around the bike on the pegs (and able to slide my ass from side to side without too much effort).
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Full dress harleys ?? Would love to see that one. . ..
As a multi time student and a Corner Worker for the past half a dozen years or so I've seen almost everything at the School. Closest to a full dress Harley was a Yamaha Royal Star sans bags (although I think she had them with her in her trailer).
Rain
Most of those guys don't believe or want to corner anyhow. . .. Can you imagine a CSS class with the full dress harleys, tassles flying from the handlbars, saddlebags, and straight pipes. . . No one would be able to hear anything and most of those bikes can't take a corner past 30mph. . .. well I should qualify - most of those bikes can't lean past maybe 20degrees
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Full dress harleys ?? Would love to see that one. . .. That would be pretty funny - though it makes perfect sense if you're trying to get better skills on /your/ bike rather than someone elses. . . I have a Harley v-rod for when I feel like cruising and I can tell you that I'd be afraid to corner hard on that thing on a track. . . I scrape the right side (exhaust/pegs) enough times on highway ramps that I know I would be in trouble on a track with it. . ..
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Here is a page with good info from Snell:
http://www.smf.org/h...#aDroppedHelmet
Something I read recently said you should not hang your helmet on a side mirror or handlebar, because it puts pressure on the inside and can crush parts of the foam lining. I had never thought of that.
You really have to be careful with Snell. They are a paid group (which inherently nothing wrong) that makes money off of certifications. However the problem is that their last certification before the current one had a /LOT/ of problems. The M2005 has a ton of problems - even enough that Snell admitted they had to update their standards - which they did to M2010. However, there is a lot of confusion in the marketplace as many helmets are still standardized to M2005 and not M2010 (and it's not that easy to tell them apart). The M2005 standard is still applicable and you can still manufacture (and test) to that standard.
The controversy actually got a Motorcycle journalist fired. He wrote an article in the New York Times as a freelance author about the issues, and the helmet manufacturers demanded that he be fired from Motorcycle because he also wrote for them. Otherwise they would pull all advertising. That is some pretty serious clout to threaten to pull advertising for something someone wrote in /another/ newspaper. . .
Anyhow you can read about that article here.
Sorting out differences in Helmet Standards
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/27/automobiles/27SNELL.html
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Heat is not the problem here 90% of the time - chill and rain is. As such, textile offer a good compromise for shorter rides. But in my experience, they really aren't weatherproof. And they leak wind all over the place. Although slightly less convenient, I prefer leathers together with proper rain gear if its cold and/or wet. Or, if it's really cold, winter insulated textile with rain gear on top.
As to protections, leathers sits miles above textile. I suffered a low speed get-off last summer, perhaps 25 mph, and tore a hole on the knee of the pants and had several holes on the arm and shoulder of my textile gear - bought for the trip in hope of having my cake and eating it too. Had I wore my usual leathers, they'd barely be scuffed a bit.
Depends on what you get to determine whether things are waterproof. I find if you get the Goretex proshell type of jackets - where the jacket material and waterproof laminate are one piece and NOT a separate goretex liner - then the entire system can be made pretty wind/water proof. I have gone 8 hours in cold/wet without a drop of water. ..
I can deal with cold and wet all day. I don't like hot, don't like hot and wet. Cold or cold and wet is a much easier problem to solve than hot or hot/wet. . .
As a reference - for cold or cold/wet look at Rukka Armas. Ridden down to 0c without a problem and is good for up to about 25C. It's made up there in Scandinavia no less. .. However good Rukka gear is for cold and cold/wet - its not good for hot. .. And if you don't get the laminated gore-tex type of units - then the liner based units have problem like all the rest.
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I am a firm believer in leather. I have used textile before and have seen too many textile garments just not function as one would hope they do (especially mesh). The textiles that do function how I would want, are pretty much the same "comfort level" as functional leather. So I switched back to leather. Perforated leather for hot weather riding. . I do use textile in winter as it actually functions better than leather in terms of warmth/layers (and I'm using the heavier duty stuff).
That being said - I can see where textile is useful if you're going on a trip. Because while you can get waterproof leather, its generally not as good venting as the perforated leather options that you have. So, if you're going on a trip where you need to handle cool, hot, wet and dry - then textile certainly might be more flexible than leather.
As I generally keep my rides to dry weather and I can choose when/where I ride (not on a trip), I can limit my choices to what the weather is that day.
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Hi - I've read the previous response to operating a camera during the school. That it can't distract and bother you. Has anyone actually operated one of those contour camera's attached to your helmet during the camps/class ?
I attach my ContourHD 1080 to the bike (suction cup mount type) when I doing the filming. I turned the cam on/off for each session to avoid running out of battery. There is a
taken with a helmetcam when doing the lean bike drill, so it's possible to use a true helmetcam.Kai
Hey Kai - what kind of suction cup mount did you use on the BMW S1000RR when you were there ? If's probably optimal there, but you probably don't want something that might get in the way of whatever drill they are having you working on (at least I wouldn't want that to happen).
Xiamen, eh ? I haven't been to Xiamen in about 15 years. . . Had to take one of the worse overnight ferry rides ever to go to HK from there back then. Then ferry turned around in the middle of the night and had to take a small van about 8 hours through some really bumpy roads to get to Shenzhen. . . This was back in the early-90's when the roads were still dirt roads back then. . .
. Also, the top end helmets from Arai, Shoei, AGV, Shark, Suomy all are quite noisy. You would think they are quiet - but to achieve ventilation, it involves more opennings and more openings mean more sound. The exception to that might be the Schuberth SR1 which I am quite impressed with (just received). Still doesn't ventilate as well as the Arai Corsair V series though.
. I have toyed with the idea of trading my K1200R in on a new S1000RR so I have considered the Panigale. It is a bit more money but not absurdly so (for the base at least). Sadly the Duc dealer in this area doesn't have a demo machine set up so I cant ride one right now (they cant get enough of them to justify it so that would support your assertion Rain - they are selling well). 
when I'm riding my Harley I'm constantly worried about tipping it over too far and scraping pegs/exhaust. . . Probably need to get rid of the lesser performing one. . ..
Miller, July 11-12
in School Questions/General Discussion
Posted
I plan on being at Miller, but on the 9-10 dates. . . Would love to stay over for a few extra days but have to be back on the East Coast on Thursday so unfortunately can't. . . No idea on food for SLC or Tooile. . . .