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About cellige

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    Cornering Apprentice

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  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    not yet !
  1. Thanks for the replies ! I am curious as to the nuts and bolts of what your saying T-McKeen 1. This is interesting. Because gravity combined with centripetal force will always act directly down the lean, wouldn't that mean the forks would be getting side pressure on any kind of rider lean? Imagine a 600 pound person leaning off so much that the bike didn't need to lean and imagine the side pressure on the forks. Without rider lean it seems from the perspective of the bike the force is always straight down its lean, as if you were riding vertical with a seriously cambered road under you an
  2. So hanging off the bike moves the center of gravity a bit giving us a little more clearance before we start scraping parts. My question is, what other advantages does this give? Things I suspect are affected by hanging off: 1. suspension compliance due to the forces down the bike to the track being a little out of line 2. contact patch shape 3. steering head angle slightly less 1. would seem to be a disadvantage? 2. does its shape add more or less cornering g's? Perhaps it doesn't matter since friction is a component of the coefficient and the normal force? 3. reduces the slip ang
  3. I understand that it is taught to crack on the throttle as soon as the lean is complete, however don't you have to be with a slight roll on to achieve 40/60 weight distribution to get to max lean?
  4. There seem to be three reasons people have said that seem plausible for all the trail braking in Isle of Man TT. 1. Long straights. Whoever mentioned using trail braking when coming off a straight to keep the higher speed for longer, I have a question for you. Since the quick flick allows you to turn in later, assuming your 100% on the brakes in both techniques, you would start braking later in the quick flick. Wouldn't that mean you keep the higher speed for longer with the quick flick? 2. The feel at the limit of traction from trail braking. 3. Different hardware. Perhaps for the
  5. Ah, do the rules say they don't have brakes?
  6. So how is the dirt of a flat track any different than any reduced traction surface? You don't see riders sliding like that in rain so why does that technique work on dirt and not asphalt?
  7. Nope The largest radius of curvature would be a straight line. smallest would be whatever your bike does at full fork lock. Thats how I was using the terms anyways, your free to use them as you wish !
  8. Interesting comments, but my question still stands With a quick flick the radius of the turn will always be larger than a slow flick. Without the presence of other riders I don't see how machinery, track type or anything would change that?
  9. So I would like to bring this back up I know there are lots of threads on trail braking but it always delves back into it being necessary for racers to make sure people don't pass or to pass themselves. What keith code has shown in his videos and books to me makes a lot of sense, that with a quick flick you create the better line and therefor get to less of a lean and back on throttle sooner. But does that reflect in lap times? Watching some of the Isle of Man races, these guys set lap records while heavily trail braking. Could it be faster if they flicked quicker? Can they not fl
  10. So expressed independently of specific bikes, what is the optimal amount of front load for the tire while one is quick flicking?
  11. Someone in here mention that it is basically impossible in good conditions to flick the bike too quick, as long as they are not on the brakes. My question is, does engine braking count as on the brakes, or do they mean just not on the throttle at all? Is cracked open ok? Some bikes engine brake more than others, I imagine the heavy engine braking on some could be an issue for a seriously fast flick?
  12. Thread has been interesting ! Inspired, I have been doing drills out in the nearest open space I can find (would loooove to get out to the school) putting all this together and have noticed a few things. - Some kind of intelligent linked brakes like the honda system that work well and operated solely with the right foot would be fantastic to free the right hand from braking, anyone every go such a custom route? - Not so hard to avoid excess brake input when i use my middle, ring and pinky to brake leaving my index and thumb for throttle, as well as giving me the leverage at the end of
  13. Thanks for the detailed response ! Couple of follow up questions: My bike doesnt seem to be totally smooth when I crack the throttle on even the smallest amount, is that common? Is it not common to have corners where you need to brake as hard as possible? - I was under the impression that once you brake harder than engine braking alone provides you are then slowing the engine with the brakes which would increase braking distance. - Seems like getting the blip and clutch out per gear would be tuff under maximum braking. If you mess a blip up and blip to high it pushes through the front
  14. I posted this over at advrider but this might be a better place to ask From what I can tell the recommended technique (mainly without a slipper clutch) is to downshift while braking, releasing the clutch for each gear, finishing your braking/downshifting before you lean the bike, lean the bike and then immediately after done leaning, roll on the throttle. I would like to know why there is an advantage doing that method instead of: braking, downshifting through each gear with the clutch held in, leaning the bike and immediately after leaning getting the clutch in the friction zone/rolling
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