XPyrion

I don't have any good images but this is the latest I have. My understanding is that hanging off more allows for more speed with less lean angle. The flip side is that it usually requires more effort. Some will say not to waste the effort if it is not needed. I just make sure I am fit because I'd rather have the available option of more lean than to be without it. Really, I am not sure where I actually am in the spectrum of on the bike or leaning all the way off but I feel like I found a good balance. I tend to vary how much I hang off depending on the corner and speed. Also, I feel more comfortable leaning left and was shocked I had a decent image of myself leaning right. I'd love to say I am consistant but I still have some work to do there.

I was COTA last weekend also. Those leathers don't look too bad. I had a standard leather worker add a patch to mine after a low side just to reinforce an area. It wasn't pretty or anything but it did the job. There was a guy at COTA in 2A who's suit looked like a patchwork of accidents. I don't think any part of that suit was untouched. There were some seams zip tied and I think others that looked like yarn holding it together. I couldn't believe what I was seeing.

I stream both MotoGP and WSBK using the videopass. I used to watch them on Fox and BeIN Sports respectively but without a DVR it was difficult getting up early/staying up late to watch them. For Moto2/3, they only had them in standard definition sometime later in the day. Obviously, motorcycle racing doesn't have quite the same following in the states so programming isn't that important. The MotoAmerica PR guy on ZX6R forums says there should be an improvement with streaming this year. He mentioned that last year they were pretty lucky to get all the stuff they were able to in that amount of time. It looks like the website is still a work in progress for detailed, easy to access information though. Personally, I thought last weeks WSBK races were pretty good. If you are not a fan of Kawasaki, maybe not so much but still some pretty good racing. I usually find the 600 classes to be a bit more exciting.

Looks like I am a bit late on this but I use the TechSpec Snake Skins. Depending on the bike, the kits are a pretty good deal. For the 636, I get two pads per side (tank and fairings) and the one in the middle of the tank. It offers greate coverage depending on your position on the bike. I know many use Stompgrip also.

I do squats with my legs spread about peg width. I also squat with more bias from one side to the other like transitioning from side to side. Basically, as I am squatting down, move to the right or left and then come back up to center. As for leg strength, it could just be the way you are locking your leg on. If you find the correct leg lock position on the outside leg, it should be almost effortless. The dip down is most likely for the same reason. Since you are heavily weighting your inside leg, you are applying extra pressure to move yourself back up causing the bike to dip. You should be applying more pressure to the outside leg to bring the bike back over. I will end this by saying I am not an expert, just trying to think about how I do it. I just hope I interpreted it right. EDIT: I should have clarified that steering inputs bring the bike back over. Weighting the outside leg vs. the inside leg should help with the dipping.

Interesting topic since in another forum they were talking about it for local races also. Pirelli makes a Diablo Wet for such conditions.

Confidence is a big part of riding (especially while riding fast) and feeling comfortable with your bike boosts confidence so yes, it's entirely possible that will make a difference.

What filters and what has you second guessing? I was running Purolator, tried a Mobil and I am currently running Fram synthetic so I can change the oil a few times but keep the filter. Either way, I have never had an issue.

When I bought the ZX6R, the first upgrade was frame sliders. After a few rides, I realized the non-adjustable clutch lever just wouldn't work so I bought adjustable levers. I then bought a fender eliminator, OK, normally I am more about functionality but come on, those stock fenders are nasty. I then bought some Techspec tank pads because a little extra grip while hanging off is always nice. Braided brake lines? Of course. I went with some Core Moto's when previously went with Spiegler. I like the Core Moto having stock mounting point bushing's, a nice touch. Engine covers (GB) next. On the 650, the left side would still rub a cover with frame sliders so I decided the ZX6R would not fall to the same fate. I also switched to EBC EPFA pads since I like the progressive feel with a bit more bite than OEM. Basically, what I am trying to say is go for bike protection first, then get what feels right after you get it on the track. Lately, since I got all that out of the way, I have been modifying the stock exhaust and finally got a slip on. I actually bought a PCV first and swapped the Autotune over from the 650. Skill will trump horsepower most of the time. Work on the skills first. I should mention I keep mine as street/track bikes.

Jokes aside, how often do people mistake the difference between Austria and Australia that you have to make a point of it? I agree with above. I come from Nebraska, most places have better riding/scenery than here.

Specific to tire wear, this guy summarized it and credits Dave Moss in the link. There are other sites that pretty much show the same thing also. http://biketrackdayshub.com/motorcycle-tyre-wear-guide/ If you have stock suspension or aftermarket, the manual should explain how to make the changes. If you are unsure, you could list your stock or aftermarket suspension and we can help you out. If you don't know what your suspension is, that is a different story. Usually, you can set it to one end or the other, compress and/or release (settle) and that should tell you how you adjusted it based on how easy/hard it is to compress or how fast/slow it settled.

Welcome and G'day, mate!

If I am not mistaken, isn't half a cheek off just a good baseline recommendation? Also, I believe it requires moving your upper body over to stay inline with the bike which I don't see in the images posted. Of course, it is about what feels comfortable to you. There are many fast riders that may not have the "ideal" body position. Trying to mirror Marc Marquez on our bikes and at our speeds doesn't make sense either. Do you have tank pads? They really help with grip when leaned over. I have only ridden two bikes on the track but I know bikes fit people differently. I could never get entirely comfortable leaning off the Ninja 650 but on the ZX6R my leg locks on the tank as soon as I slide over. As I do that, I extend my outside arm which then engages the tank so that is another contact point I use so I know my upper body is over and down. The differences between the 650 and ZX6R are tank design, peg height, seat height and seat shape. They seem to make a world of difference.

Interesting comment. I only say that because this is what I do. Well, I have no idea what my lean angle is (I just go until my knee touches) but I'd rather get off the bike and have lean available than be at full lean with no more options. That being said, it does take a bit more energy so it's good to be in shape.

I find the Q3's to get that feeling also. I call it squirmy and in MotoUSA's tire shootout, they mentioned the same thing. They also used the term flex but not necessarily in a bad way. My Q3 experience is only on the 650 though. On the 636, it comes stock with S20's. I have yet to feel anything from them. Helps and hurts confidence? It has me a bit worried because someone who races mentioned they never feel anything from Bridgestones and they just let go. He is a Pirelli fan because he says he can feel what they are doing. Anyway, I have one more track day on the S20's and then have some rebated Q3's to throw on next so I can't wait to see if they feel like they did on the 650.

At my track, they let the infield grass overgrow so I have to change my RP points during the season. You might ask why I don't just pick different spots that don't matter on the grass being there or not. I don't know if there is such a thing but I would call some RP's strong (worker hut), they are easier to spot and focus on. I find others (maybe a spot on the track) may not be as easy so if I have a choice, I use the easy ones. Basically, a smaller cost for my limited attention.

I currently have an AXO. I used to have an AGV Sport and it held up fine to a couple of low sides. I'd say the quality and materials are about the same for both brands. The AXO seems like more of a race fit though. Both brands tend to have base level suits for a decent price. Both of my suits were their higher level suits bought on clearance new for under $600. STG currently has a Scorpion for $499. Sometimes you just have to be at the right place at the right time. I'd list sizes and weight but we are quite a bit different in those regards.

There are multiple ways to bed in pads. I just linked that as an example. The idea behind doing it slower is usually for an older rotor that might have some surface variations. This will allow the pad to fit the contours before bedding it in. On a newer rotor with new pads, it should not matter as much. According the to track procedure, 3-4 laps, not long at all.

If you head over to the riderforums, you can get some good information from the people there about the 650. There was a member that ordered custom lines for his ABS bike. As for the stock pads, they do a decent enough job but after a few hard laps they don't inspire confidence even though they do slow the bike. I put on a set of EBC HH and they definitely felt better when warmed up. I recently switched to the EBC EPFA's and they are just crazy when warmed up. Not too inspiring cold though. While most will mention lightly scuffing/cleaning the rotors, I have been fine switching without doing that. EBC's website explains the bed in process. I usually put pads on where I can put some street mileage on them first before I do heavy bed in. I'd rather know what the pads feel like before I get to the track. For track only bikes, there really isn't much of a choice in that matter. http://www.riderforums.com/kawasaki-ninja-650r/ http://ebcbrakes.com/about-ebc/faqs/

I was wondering if there was going to be a follow up post on the topout spring since that is what I ran into on my 636. I was having my son take measurements and they just didn't make any sense after making adjustments. I was almost convinced he was reading something wrong. That led me to research this same topic. BTW, keep going, some may not comment but I am sure plenty are taking it in.

My initial reaction of giving up WSBK was of shock but then I thought, I am a Kawisaki fan and if someone isn't, this season probably is not as fun for them. Anyway, the SSP and ST6 races have been very fun to watch. 1. It looks like Marquez is back to the beginning of his first season, making quick decisions with bad results. If he gets back to being a bit more patient, he should be good to go. It may be too late for this season. 2. Usually setup. Similar to WSBK, Sykes didn't look strong in the beginning but once things got sorted out, he has been a bit stronger of late. They have talked a bit more about setup with the Honda's, with the new engine and mention that is why Marquez is having a harder time. 3. Most of the stuff I have read refers to his qualifying. If he can pick it up there, that will help a lot. As mentioned, there are a few stronger riders this year that will hold him up longer so racecraft alone may not cut it.

The scraping sound is my knee. Klucky Pucks are a pretty hard material. Usually I tap and lift but in this instance, I held it too long and hit a dip which upset the bike and then pivoted a bit on my knee. I went in a bit hotter than usual and of course, started scrubbing speed when I probably could/should have maintained throttle and held the curve. Normally, my body position is really good in this corner (it's one of my favorites even with the conditions) and I am usually hugging the side of the bike coming out. Well, as much as I can on a street Ninja 650.

I have been seeing references to the dirt a lot and it is something I have thought about, although, I have never made an effort to really seek it out. I also hear that a good Ohlin's setup makes issues disappear. For the sake of discussion, this is one of those corners I was referring to. I have to turn in over a newly tarred seam and then thread it inside or outside of the new patches that my bike doesn't handle so well. I find it difficult to look ahead but when I do, it makes a world of difference on how I finish the corner. https://youtu.be/R-sft4faxpQ?t=7m4s

That is what I hear a lot also. I am not arguing with that fact but posing the question of which is more beneficial, nicer tires or more track time? I believe the last time I checked, the difference in cost was more than a single track day in my area.

Before I improved my process for checking tire pressures, I had predictable sliding from Q3 rears so I know they have a small warning. Of course, since I was still new, I took a low side when about the 10th slide correction wasn't successful. Now that I have corrected my psi issue, I rarely feel them come out of line. As mentioned above, riders have different preferences for tires. I was swapping laps with a guy who just switched to Q3's and I helped him get his best lap ever. In the end, he wanted to go back to Bridgestone because he just didn't feel comfortable on the Q3's. Also like above, I run Q3's because I find them to be the best bang for the buck. Dunlop needs to keep those rebates coming.