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Johnno down under

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Johnno down under last won the day on July 21 2018

Johnno down under had the most liked content!

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About Johnno down under

  • Rank
    Cornering Apprentice
  • Birthday 03/01/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Waikato, NZ
  • Interests
    Gliding, riding, photography, tramping, and m/c touring.

Previous Fields

  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    No, no schools at all. Just a survivor.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,135 profile views
  1. I struggled with the notion of fixed reference points. For me the nearest thing to a reference was best described as a dynamic vector. The line, speed, and terminal point. Of course in normal riding the terminal point continuously changes. Thus the vector is not fixed. But then again most of my riding is on the road, amongst traffic, livestock, and wildly variable surfaces, with many blind, closing radius corners. But it must be noted that I am visual kinetic in orientation and my sense of 3D space is more kinesic than visual. N On the few occasions I rode on track, even the entry point o
  2. And it would wear like a bugger in Highway use due to the lack of serious corners unless the centre tread was a very hard compound.
  3. I’d like modernised 1987suzuki gsx 400x. Impulse. The unfaired version with the larger tank. Modern suspension and tyres. This has a low seat a shortish wheel base at 1346mm on 17” hoops. And when well tuned provides 55-57 hp and a top speed of 240kph. Even the stock cheap-as 1980s suspension is adequate, and I often wonder what it would be like to have a modern adjustable suspension system. The seat is unique, wide at rear and narrow at the tank. Hanging off is easy as, but one can still ride long distances comfortably. The engine is unburstable, full time oil pump, seriously over cooled
  4. One could describe this vision as ping pong vision. In ping pong one focuses attention on the opponent and use wide vision/peripheral vision to track and return the ball. One never focuses on the ball at all. Another description that is relevant in hard focus( long sight) and soft vision ( in the near/ wide zone). Rather than think of this as being zoned out, it is more useful to think of it as an active meditation. Note it is quicker to shorten ones gaze than to lengthen it. When focusing on near objects the distant objects are more out of focus, than near objects when looking afar due to the
  5. I have had precisely one set of road tyres ( 1980s super sport radials) that seriously exaggerated the pro steering component. This meant the bike sat far more vertical through hard turns. They also taught me the value of being loose on the bars. Countersteer hard at turn in then let the bikes front end do its thing.then gas on at the right point. Easy as.
  6. I’ve always wondered what the effect of the no BSbike would be if the fixed bars were set at or lower down, and perhaps slightly forward of the regular bars. This set up would be more akin to a normal riding position, and leverage. In my hard out riding I pull the inside bar outwards, more than push a countersteer. It is a countersteer, but is focused more on setting my weight and leverage consistently post initiating countersteer effort. And yes I am loose on the bars. On my old 1980s suspensioned sports commuter bike, allowing the front to wriggle and jump is crucial to maintaining con
  7. A skill I learned as a young rider, is best explained by an anthropology text discussing the relationship between research and imagination. It spoke of “soft vision, hard focus”. Ones hard focus is on the road well ahead, this is maintained while also allowing oneself soft vision out in the periphery of ones vision. on your bike this means that one remains actively aware of what’s going on outside the focus of ones attention. Thus although my focus is often ( on rural roads) two corners ahead watching for oncoming vehicles, landslides and road debris. In my soft vision is placing me on t
  8. It's clear to me that a big piece of the puzzle is the bike set up. Some street bikes need almost effort to steer other require a firm hand, and others yet need assertive gymnastics to make them go where you want. After a decade of pushing a small 400cc fourstroke, Suzuki Impulse around corners at stupid speeds, back in them1990s I had a chance to consider more pricey alternatives. So out for a test ride. Fist a BMW boxer 800cc. Well that was interesting, It really didn't like corners at all. Sure it could change direction, but once turned in it was stuck on line unless brutally steered.
  9. To turn when the back wheel is off the ground ( stoppie) requires that one actively control the relationship between the backend and the front contact patch via providing just enough asymmetric damping to prevent excessive swivel arround the headset. Still soft on the bars, just not totally so. The front end still needs to be allowed to weave microscopically. Much of the balance is served simply by remaining sat on the bike. Same principle applies when drifting both ends - common enough when encountering unexpected gravel on the street. Too much rider input will dump you on the ground ( high
  10. Ah yes, I understand your point except. Higher bars raise ones centre of gravity, and reduce the ability of the bike to topple. The taller the lever, the greater the angular momentum change required. This is the reason it is easier to ride a very tall monocycle than a short one. Secondly, the source of the force imputing this change is gravity, not muscle power. As any idiot knows it's hard to pull up or push down on a bar that is at shoulder or chest height at arms reach. Lower bars allow one to use body weight to directly alter the lean of the bike thus instigating the flop that any
  11. I'd find the video far more convincing if the fixed bars were at or below the level of the regular bars. I can't imagine that the riders ability to load the bike isn't reduced by the high fixed bars. As an experiment I tried, taking my hands of the bars on my little 400cc Suzuki and loaded the exposed frame below the tank. About a handspan below and a handspan inboard and below the regular bars. No counter steering, so slower turn in, but way more steering effect than the CSS video shows. And more than trying to load the pegs. In conjunction with actively shifting body weight the effect am
  12. Hmm, seeking comments? My high speed braking ( lover 120kph) straight line braking technique has always been to apply brakes with vigor, whilst sitting up tall, having moved forward to mid seat. Knees and elbows out, catching as much air as possible. In other words supplanting the brakes with drag. At very high speeds using drag seems to generate more braking effect than the brakes - at least until the speed drops blow about 120kph. The load on the bars is limited by the bent outwards facing elbows, and is almost directly downwards, so steering is pretty much able to squirm as necessary, wi
  13. The short answer is yes it is possible to over do Counter steering ( i.e. Quick turn.) The obvious context is when one exceeds the mechanic limits of the bike. This may not be the tyre, but rather suspension or frame components. I have experienced headset bearing failure when initiating a particularly brutal U-turn at moderate speed (40 mph). The bearings were well maintained and properly preloaded, but couldn't reliably handle the load. Having previously completed similar turns on the street in emergency situations where braking to a full stop or simple evasion was not feasible I was con
  14. So have you found out that BMW car oil filters are interchangeable with those for bikes. The difference being the bike filter is about 18mm shorter to allow for the nut welded onto the end of the filter for easy filter replacement. Thus the replacement period for the BMW motorcycle filters is a third less than the car version. Over here riders of BMWs often just buy the car filter - not only does it have a longer service life, it is half the cost. To remove a used car filter from the motorcycle one need only apply a screw driver at an angle sufficient to unscrew the filter. Yes it is slightly
  15. So part of my problems cornering turned out to be a front tyre that had given its best -cupping and old age (10 years). It still had plenty of tread it just wasn't providing reliable feedback. So onto a new street tyre. And a slight increase n pressure from 32-34 psi cold to 36 psi based on the tyre gurus recommendation (Pirelli sport demon). And a problem. While wearing in and adjusting to this new tyre I was riding very conservatively 75km into an unfamiliar long downhill sweeper with initially good banking. Weather was sunny, with warm dry road surface (not summer greasy). I was aware tha
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