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BikeSpeedman last won the day on November 1 2018

BikeSpeedman had the most liked content!

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About BikeSpeedman

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    Cornering Artist

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  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    When? Today? Some, not a lot.

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  1. So when do you plug in the warmers? The advice was just cover the tires after a session but wait to plug them in. How long do you wait?
  2. Dylan, I was doing some research about tire sizes because my bike comes with a manual that says "if you use Supercorsa V2, then use 200 rear but with any other tire, use 190." That concerned me bc Dunlop doesn't make a race tire in 190. So I started doing some research and ran across a post you made about tire sizes on another forum a few years ago. Based on your post, I think it's safe to mount a KR451 in 200 on my bike/rim size. My bike comes with a manual that says "if you use Supercorsa V2, then use 200 rear but with any other tire, use 190." That concerned me bc Dunlop doesn't make a race tire in 190. I'm going to disregard the manual and mount a KR451 in 200 - verifying with the Dunlop guy that works at our local track daI'm going to disregard the manual and mount a KR451 in 200 - verifying with our trackside Dunlop guy. That led me another post you made about the heat-cycle myth. Apparently the heat-cycle thing is a myth with respect to Dunlops at least. That's very good info. The one part of it that confuses me is that on Dunlop's own FAQ page, they say the following: That appears to contradict their other statements. BTW, this link you posted http://www.dunlopracing.com/Warmers.pdf is a dead link now. Not sure if it was moved or if they just got rid of it. I wanted to read more about what you said regarding not plugging warmers right after a session. It makes sense - don't add heat to an already hot tire - but how long do you wait before plugging it in? Assuming you get 40 min btwn sessions, how long do you let the tires cool off before adding heat again?
  3. Awesome. I'll reach out to Ginny when I upgrade. Thanks again.
  4. Thanks, Dylan! Okay so now I need to do the math to see how long it takes to make up for buying a generator and warmers. I know you guys sell the GPAs. Do you also sell the K448/K451?
  5. Hi guys. I've gone through 2 sets of Q4s so far and loved them. On my 675 and at a slower pace, they seemed to have decent wear. I just ran through a set on a 1000 and at -10 sec, I'm getting 2 track days out of a set. The rear went off in session 3 of track day 3. I've been researching and it appears that 2-2.5 track days is all you can hope to get out of the Q4s. So my question is do slicks last longer? I've read that to maximize the life out of slicks, you need to use warmers so they don't go in and out of temp (fewer heat cycles). How many track days could I hope to get out of a set of Dunlop slicks assuming I use warmers? Thanks.
  6. I've made a lot of progress at different parts of Thunderhill East. I've gotten my corner speed up in 1, 2, 5b, 8, 14, 15. I am wanting to start getting my speed up in 3 but it's off camber and I am not sure I know how to attack it safely. I've heard approach off camber like a decreasing radius but I'm not sure what that means. I'd rather ask now than after a crash and then get those "Oh, you have to ______ in off camber corners." I realize the basic premise of having less grip but I also know I'm not on the limit. I'm looking for specific techniques that you have to use on this kind of corner. Thanks.
  7. are you suggesting "Using arm's force to countersteer and make any bike turn, we cancel the self-correcting property of the steering geometry. Motorcycles don't really need a rider to avoid cornering:" contradicts my statement that you quoted? If so you must misunderstand me. I agree a bike defaults to going in a straight line with no lean. You push the right bar (same as turning bars to the left) to lean/go right. When you use hands to push/pull the bars, it's the bar movement that causes the lean which causes the turning action. If you are riding without hands, you have to get the bike to lean to turn but without the bars, you can't create nearly as much force. But the bar-direction is still the same, it's just that the order is flipped. Just like CSS says, you can't turn nearly as effectively without hands but of course it can be done. Interestingly, and what you quoted of mine, is that when you use your no-hands body english method to lean right, the bars still end up going left (right bar forward) in order to allow you to lean. Either way (with bar pressure or without), you're still counter steering to turn. It's just a matter of how well you can do it. The no-hands method certainly limits your effectiveness.
  8. I know sometimes it feels like you're pushing down on the bars to turn but you're not. You're pushing forward which makes that side of the bike lean down which makes your hand feel the downward motion. I know some people claim they're able to turn with foot pressure and/or body english to cause the bike to lean but both methods are simply riding no hands. A) it's way way less effective than with hands. You claim 60% as effective but this is easily disproved on a skid pad or an obstacle course. Estimating based on how you feel is not useful and of course, it varies on speed. Try changing lanes no-handed at 60 then repeat the process using push-pull. B ) riding no hands still requires counter steering. It just happens with less force and happens in reverse. Instead of turning the bars left to lean right, you lean right to turn the bars left. To the foot-peg steering method, the only thing outer peg pressure achieves is enabling you to put more inner bar pressure. Just like you jump from your left foot to make a right handed layup, when you push on the left peg, you effectively harness your body's ability to push on the right bar with your right hand. If you ever doubt it, take your hands off the bars, push with your left foot and stick your head out over the right. You will probably list lazily to the right but it's a quite a bit less effective than what you're actually doing (even if you don't realize it). These facts are true on a sportbike, a Harley, and my 15 lb road bike.
  9. Thanks, everyone. Of course, when you're slow the improvements come in big steps. I'm not really fast yet but by the end of the day, the way I was going through the esses was probably the best I've ever felt on a bike.
  10. I thought I knew how beneficial it would be and I thought I knew what I wanted to get out of it. I was kinda wrong on both counts. The personal consultant approach makes the leap between L3 and L4 huge. Take what we all know about CSS coaches. They're well versed in the hangups regular humans have in riding motorcycles fast and they're incredibly skilled at breaking down those barriers and knowing what the riders need to become better. Now, take those skills and remove the confines of teaching 5 new skills in a day and just let them have the time to fix whatever needs fixing and that's the difference between L3 and L4. I was at SoW. I was struggling at the kink and it turned out the problem was actually starting at the turn-in for 8. This was nice but the next revelation was that I was turning too slowly. It never felt like it to me because I was able to hit my marks at the speed I was riding. But much like the previous issue, the solution was not what I expected. I thought once I had more pace, I'd turn more quickly. But once they got me to really turn more quickly, I found that I had to up my pace. Again, the solution to a known problem was far from intuitive. After circling SoW who knows how many times at basically the same pace (better form each time but never more pace), being forced to do quick-turn correctly (in my case, push-pull) forced me to approach the corners with more pace because if had turned more quickly at the same entrance speed, of course, I would have early apexed. This one change got me 9 seconds. Next year I'm going to find a stretch of 3 or 4 days at SoW and book multiple days at once. Primary focus (I think) will be T1. Can't wait.
  11. RE Car tire widths... The movement of a car tire when turning is split between the wheel and the tire. The steps involved are: Turn steering wheel the wheels turn while the tires remain in original position the tires then let go of the road surface and twist to get back in line with the position of the wheel This repeats in little steps over and over throughout the turn. It happens for rear tires too but it's the attitude of the car which turns the rear wheels. In both cases, the tires lag behind the wheel, let go of the road, and catch up with the wheel as long as the direction is being changed. The way a tire performs this sideways deflection (twist) is a product of sidewall height and tire width. This is one of the main reasons race cars have low profiles and more width. It should be noted that there's a practical limit for how low you can go with profile before losing too much suspension effect from the tire. It's far more desirable to add width as much as possible without hitting suspension components or fenders. Also, you want to increase the wheels along with increases in tire because even though you can often add +5 or +10 mm for a given wheel size, it will allow the tire to twist more than if this relationship is controlled. If the article says that more width does not give more grip (in cars), then it is wrong. I spent a lot of time a while back autocrossing and time trialing. I've been to racing schools and read dozens of books about car setup and performance. Classes are tightly controlled about all aspects of the tire including width. Getting a tire that is too wide for your current class bumps you into a different class and your lap times drop. It's easily verified. Anyone involved in racing (bikes or cars) will tell you being able to consistently run laps with little variation is important both for safety and to reliably improve the car's setup. It's not "in your head". It's a real effect. I can't speak to bike tire widths.
  12. I got a Pista GP when they first came out (~2 years ago) and love it. It's crazy expensive but Revzilla has a few colors listed for about $1k now.
  13. He did quite well in the wet FP1 as well. Briefly as high as 4th and ultimately finishing in 14. At first it seems odd for a SoCal boy to be so much better in the wet than the dry but he moved to England when he was 13 or 14 as a home base for his European racing career so it kinda makes sense. Hopefully he gets a bit better in the dry.
  14. Oh no. I just saw this. It's a 675R. 1st: full track day (4 or 5 sessions) 2nd: I was sick so I did 2 half-sessions and 1 full session and went home. 3rd: It was the 2nd session of the day when I started having the problems. Commuting distance covered about 500 miles. I thought the "street" tires like the Q3s would endure more heat cycles than that. Are you guys swapping out tires every other day at the schools? Yikes.
  15. I've been doing some introspection and I realize I actually do prefer right turns. There's some pre-turn stress probably linked to the fact my body doesn't bend that way as easily. So why am I faster in lefts? Possibly bc Thunderhill is almost entirely lefts and I get to practice them a lot more. There are 10 lefts and 5 rights by the official count. However, 2 of the rights are kinda straights so you don't lean much at all and another 2 are off camber so you're naturally going to lean less on those. There's only one level right turn where you're not straight-lining it and that one is a very late apex where you're trying to stand the bike up asap bc it essentially leads on to the front straight (you're pretty straight through the next corner). It'd be interesting to look at the data on a track with some fast right hand sweepers.
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