Jump to content

Vinny Russo

Members
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Vinny Russo last won the day on May 26 2023

Vinny Russo had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
    No

Vinny Russo's Achievements

Cornering Enthusiast

Cornering Enthusiast (3/5)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • One Year In
  • Collaborator
  • Dedicated Rare
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

3

Reputation

  1. Hi Cobie, you should use 2 of our effective additives in 2 different tankfuls (not at the same time). - Jectron (#2007) - add to full tank of gas every 12-1500 miles to keep injectors clean from gum and lacquers. It also protects the total fuel system from any water or ethanol in the fuel from corroding the metal or hardening/cracking plastic fuel lines for 12 - 1500 miles. - Valve Clean (2001) - same application/same effective time. Cleans intake valves and combustion chamber of deposits (carbon) and prevents new formation.
  2. Again, sorry so late to this as well. Ethanol is detrimental to plastics such as the lines in a fuel system, which will become brittle and possibly crack just when you don't need it. And of course water in fuel eventually can corrode the metal in the system. Tough to find Zero Ethanol gas out here as well. Regular use of our 4T Additive for Motorbikes, (#20142 Shooter 1 - 2.5 gallons or #20048 for 4 - 5.5 gallons) not only will clean injectors and carburetors from gum, lacquers and varnish, it will not allow any water or ethanol to interact with the plastics or metal of the fuel system. Even when after a treated tank-full is gone, it still has a residual effect and protects for a few more tank-fulls. We also have two versions for cars and Trucks, depending whether Port or Direct injected.
  3. Sorry so late to see this, but we make a great oil additive that you can add to any Car/Truck oil, and it will help recondition any rubber seals. In the case of any oil getting by the shrunken dry valve guide seals, front or rear main seals etc...our Motor Oil Saver (#2020) helps to regenerate rubber or plastic seals close as possible to original size. One can treats a bit over a gallon of engine oil, and can be added anytime as long as you have at least 500 miles left before an oil change. Otherwise I would wait and add it with the new oil. It usually takes effect from 100 to 400 miles. This additive should only be added ONCE every 10K-15K miles to not over soften anything.
  4. Thanks fir the question Cobie. I would like to add that my answers are all based on "when using the proper engine oil". Some say most engine damage is done at start up. - I agree, that most "wear" happens on start-up. Some say oil pressure happens very quickly, but others say you must warm the engine. - There is oil pressure immediately, but only the optimum range when the oil is warmed up. How long to warm an engine before using it? - A vehicle can be driven straight away, but would not take to any extremes until warmed up. Can one drive slowly/easily in the beginning? - Yes. What part of the engine gets the most wear if driven too hard to cold? - The tightest fitting areas inside an engine. EX -piston areas, cam lobes,camshaft bearings etc..
  5. Yes, the Speed Shooter does have cleaning capabilities for the 2-strokes as long as it is mixed in with the gas, as well as atomizing the fuel for better throttle response and range.
  6. That's great! All of Liqui Moly's stand alone additives are made to get whatever machine you have - running like it was new again, and gaining a bit of longevity as well.
  7. Keep in mind that only our Powersports products are available from any Powersports Dealers in the country that do business with Parts Unlimited and/or Drag specialties, including Cycle Gear online and Revzilla. Maybe a few things on Amazon. That being said - our Auto/Truck products can be found at NAPA, AutoZone (usually additives only), Advance Auto (most oils - anything can be ordered in), Parts Authority and Amazon. If you use our Free Oil Guide online at our website at https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/, and put in your vehicle info. It will only show all the Approved/recommended products and capacities for the motor, gear box, tranny, differentials, brake fluids etc...when you see the product - click on it for more info, and a "where to buy" button should pop up to give you online and store options.
  8. Thanks for being so patient! 😉 My number one would have to be our 4T Additive. I'm sure a few of us can't get to ride every week - or have more than one bike and might not get on it for a month in the rotation. Adding the 4T to a full tank of fuel will keep it fresh a month or two (if you don't ride), and won't let any water or ethanol interact with the plastic lines or metal of the total fuel system. It also cleans the gum. lacquer and varnish that form at the injectors, or carburetor, when ridden and will keep them clean and the whole system protected for 1,200 miles. Clean injectors = smooth starting, idling and throttle response. For a little more fun, and fuel mileage, try our Speed Additive to a full tank (2 or 4 stroke). This product atomizes the fuel to fill the piston chamber fuller with more, smaller fuel molecules to burn better during combustion. Increased throttle response especially in low and partial power applications, and extended fuel range when touring because you're burning the fuel more efficiently. Only bummer is that it only lasts as long as it's in the tank. When it's done - your bike is back to Clark Kent mode. Lastly, folks don't usually know that our Visor Cleaner is also an anti-fog for the inside of the shield. Spray it in there and let it dry. Then wipe with a microfiber and no worries about fog.
  9. Hey Dave, just want to say that I am not a "Suspension Specialist", but I can offer a bit of insight. Replacing "any' fluid under normal use should be listed in the owner's manual. Recommended Schedules will change when Racing/Track days are involved. Hanging around my MotoAmerica teams in the paddocks over the years, has given me a chance to observe and ask questions about our oils as well. Unfortunately, no two teams are alike. Some changed every 2 race weekends, others halfway thru the Race season - others didn't change anything out until the end of season. (I believe the Teams "budget" might've also had an influence on this. Lol) Just like testing thru oil analysis on motor oils - a suspension shop should be able to do the same for you. It's the only way you'll really know how well the oil is holding up at that particular time frame. Fork/Shock oils are always a single viscosity, but viscosity can change under heat. This is another instance where good quality oils will stay more consistent over the long haul than others. A 10 weight oil could get down to a 7.5 weight if it gets hot enough in the cylinders. Better additives can keep oils at optimum operating temperatures longer. On the Liqui Moly website, you can look up a fork/shock oil (or any oil) and check out it's Product Information sheet and see many specs of the oil including how the oil flows at different temps. (lower viscosity oils have a tendency to stay closer to their original rating) From what I observed at the tracks, changing a viscosity oil to tune a ride is not the best adjustment. A better way is to adjust the settings of the fork/shock itself, to get the ride you require. Hopefully you have a good suspension guy to interpret, and adjust.
  10. Our 4T Additive (Shooter #20142 - treats up to 2.5 gal, Large size #20048 - treats from 3 - 5.5 gal) and will protect, and keep the ethanol and water from interacting with any plastics/metals of, the whole fuel system for 1200 miles. Protects against the formation and removes harmful deposits like the gum, lacquer and varnish. If you are only riding the bike once every 2 months - I would use this every time you filled up. Longer term protection thru a non-riding season 6 - 8 months, we have a Motorbike Stabilizer(#20052) with a convenient measuring cap.
  11. For sure - color, touch, taste and smell isn't very scientific. Lol.
  12. Myself and customers have been using guys like Blackstone Laboratories or OilVue. You can find them online. They will send you out kits including return labels. Used to be about $25 asks they will analyze your sample and give you a readout with comments. I agree, that the Cali Superbike School should just take a sample # of a few bikes to get to an average oil change interval for all.
  13. In regards to your Mustang, or any vehicle, the manufacturer will recommend a safe oil change interval. This is based on tests they make with the factory oil, in normal driving parameters over the period. Most oils should perform well under this interval - but not all oils are the same. Not everyone drives the same either. Lots of city (stop and go), or short trips, heavy pedal driving can degrade an oils additive package quicker. The only way to find out how well your oil is performing - is to do an Oil Analysis, that is sent in to a lab for reading how well many parameters/markers of the oil, are still within "good" ranges. This readout will also be provided by the Testing venue, with comments on the sample and an estimate of oil life left - or not. Then you can adjust you oil change interval based on that, or find a better quality oil that can hold up the good numbers longer. Liqui Moly's Red Race/Street oils are dual purpose, so they can be used to manufacturer interval oil changes for normal street riding, but also for the high demands of strictly racing/track. Track, or racing bikes are harder ridden constantly so the oil change intervals will be much shorter than the average 5k miles for sure. All should be evaluated by the same parameters of an oil analysis. Records should to be kept on all the bikes to determine which ones will need a possible shorter drain interval (harder ridden) then the casual ridden bike (longer interval). Crew chiefs of two bike race teams evaluate this pretty quickly, you have a bigger challenge with over 30 bikes on premises! I will say for racing, that any clutch slippage is usually the first thing that could possibly mean it's time to change the oil, before a scheduled change.
  14. I have to first say that as a Liqui Moly Rep, I cannot officially address this as we don't have an Octane Booster. Unofficially, I would definitely contact your bike manufacturer to address this issue. Perhaps they have a solution - like possibly adding a "race Gas concentrate". 5 point Octane Boosters, as an example, will give a big assist to bikes with 87 octane fuel. Not so much boost to adding to 91 octane. They do mix well, and won't separate, BUT long term effects should be answered by the manufacturer, including damage to tank inserts.
×
×
  • Create New...