drioannis
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Posts posted by drioannis
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Many many tips are on this video.
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Can you post up some of the temps that you have seen/get on the tires? (ideally include what the ballpark riding conditions were at the time: bike, outside temp, etc.)
The ambient temperature in the video was 32C I think. The bike was on warmers but some time passed since they begin the session.
The side of the tires get some heat while you turn and specially in the exit of the corner since it does not have contact with the tarmac in the straight line. The surface temperature is not the hole story but you can have some data and make some changes. Even in MOTOGP or tire development they use the same method.
I include some photo of SBK and MotoGP and the last 2 are from my friend GSXR 1000K7 with 3 IR sensors.
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The software is made from AIM and it integrates the data from the telemetry to the video that has been recorded with AIM camera. The sensors are made from Texsense and cost 200euro each. He will use 3 on each wheel (2 sides, 1 center). I have 2D IR sensor for the front discs. For the IR sensors he will use at least 8 (6 tires and 2 for rotors). He might exaggerate a bit but the truth is that if someone is serious about the racetrack then he will need the right tools to help him avoid unfortunate situations.
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Me and a friend of mine are using IR sensors on the bike. We are also using them on the brakes and tires in the track (I only use them for brake discs). We also use telemetry to record the IR sensors and many other parameters like suspension travel, GPS, engine etc. The info from the IR sensors can be used to see how tire compound works in the specific track and conditions.
Well he is a bit crazy with the sensors. In his new bike GSXR 1000 2017 he will install three IR sensors on each tire
, oil pressures, suspension pots, IR temps for brake discs and calipers and sooo many others that I cannot even remember.Here is a video of him in Misano with some of the sensors showing
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I have the Vesrah SRJL XX and they are excellent in the track. They last for loooong time and they feel very very good. They can be used on road too.
I also have tried
SBS dual carbon: They are very good until almost half their life. Then they feel like wood.
Carbone Lorain C60 (or 59): Very good pad but it does not last for many kms (track/road)
Stock BMW (Brembo): Good pads but in the track it will not last for long and it overheats easy
Brembo pads that comes with M4 calipers: Good pad for road. Stock Brembo might feel a bit better
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I also see the difference even in the same bike that now is 99% trackbike. Before my bike transformed in trackbike the tires lasted for thousand of km and not for 3 days in the track. Brake pads in the past lasted for years but now a year max. The fluids has been changed a bit sooner than its recommend in the manual but still not every 2-3 trackdays... Track is a very very expensive hobby to do.
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This is how they look on the bike
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Made the carbon tube protection for the potentiometers to protect them from the track environment (stones,dust,liquids)
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Excellent writing about suspension reading
http://www.datamc.org/2016/04/12/histograms-suspension-velocity-analysis/
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All these are good points but for "feeling-reading" the traction there is only one word...EXPERIENCE. "Reading" the traction is the most difficult thing to to in the track. This is what makes the difference in racing.
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If it really bottoms you will hear a loud sound when it does. The solution is adding more oil in the forks. You can start by measuring how much oil do you need to add 10mm of height, so you will not take apart of the fork every time you want to add or remove oil.Then try it with 10mm more oil and see how it goes.
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Short shifting is a solution I used a lot when the bike wheeled after the exit of the corner. It helps a lot, as mentioned, when you know where wheelie will happen, move your body on the front of the bike as much as possible. Also if it is possible you can alter your wheel base (longer), gear ratio or tune your suspension by increasing compression damping or spring tension. Those last solutions are a bit radical but can be applied if it is really necessary. I would like to add for the 2010-2011 S1000RR users that after I installed the +1-4mm Alpha racing swingarm pivots, the bike just catapult straight forward and rarely wheelie if I do not want it.
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In my opinion Dunlop KR 106/108 are a pro tires. They are more sensitive in tarmac type, temperature, suspension setup and rider technique. They are more demanding tires than Pirelli Superbike. BUT when you make things right this tire is AMAZING
. If you setup it correct they also last way more than anything I have used even beyond the marker. -
Since you have warmers, hit them hard from the beginning
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The truth is that it took me a while to get used of the power delivery of a powerful 1000cc bike like S1000RR since my last bike was 600cc bike but you get used to it with time. Go for slicks in the track and you will be a happy rider
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Robert, which brand of slicks are you looking at?
I run the Diablo Supercorsa SC's and last time I checked, they were actually quoted (by Pirelli) to have more grip than the Superbike slicks.
If you are talking about Pirelli Superbike PRO Slicks yes the Diablo Supercorsa SC's have more grip in the exit of the turn after the apex. BUT there is not a chance the DOT have more grip than Pirelli Superbike Slick SC.
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Here are the 1st pics I managed to take
The only thing that remains is a track to test it.
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So I probably have one of the age old common questions but I wanted to get some thoughts from people here who have likely been there and done that. I already have some ideas but it's always good to have that logic challenged.
I'm currently running Pirelli Supercorsa SP's as my tire choice and I'm not riding beyond the tire's abilities. I already religiously use tire warmers for the safety element of keeping tires as hot as possible and limiting their heat cycles and being able to set an accurate hot pressure. I decided to run the Supercorsa SP's because previously confidence issues gave me slow days and fast days. Those confidence issues are starting to become a thing of the past and since I'm going to be converting the bike for exclusive track use only I'm considering slicks because i never ride this particular bike in the rain and when it's converted I won't be able to ride it on the street anyway. Here are some questions.
1. How quickly will they cool if you run into a lot of slow traffic or have to stop the bike in hot pit for a temporary red flag?
2. How is the wear and heat cycle capabilities in comparison to a standard tire? I "barely" get an entire season out of a set of Supercorsa SP's with them being heat cycled out by the end of the season.
3. How much additional grip do you get from slicks vs a standard tire?
4. Any gotchas that you can think of?
5. What's a good compound to use that's good in most warm weather?
1.They will cool down slower than DOT racing compounds.
2. The durability depends on the setup. They will last longer than the DOT racing tires.
3. More, way more.
4. Not street legal unfortunately.
5. Depends on the tire manufacturer. In warm-medium abrasive tracks normally softer compounds.
Generally in comparison with the SP you will see a huge difference.
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It looks like its not parallel but it might be the photo distortion. I will update when I have some data. Until then if someone can offer his experience is welcome.
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The price is more likely to 350euro both,shipped. Pm me your email so I will sent you the info. There are various qualities that mostly reflect size (diameter) and longevity. I have decided to go for the medium price and use a smart way to protect them from the environment (saw them at EICMA in multiple SBK machines) using a carbonfiber tube. I am still in the process of installing them so no actual pictures yet.
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After a lot of thinking if it worth the time and money, I decided to buy some suspension potentiometers. My purpose is to study and try to connect the feeling with the movement of the suspension. In this way I might be able to tune and most important faster.
I will use the AIM MXL2 datalogging for analyzing the results. It has a really sophisticate software to use for "Suspension Analysis".Did anyone tried it or have some experience about it?Any suggestions?
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Also if your budget is relatively limited stay with standard brake calipers or go for the M4 (1/2 the price of GP4-RX). I went for the M4 because I can find cheaper and easier good brake pads. If you want really better brake calipers and not more looks than performance then go for the racing line of the Brembo GP4-RR. Also stay with stock cooling hoses (due to $$$$) and go for aftermarket rearsets that are cheaper than Alpha Racing (which are very good).
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It looks good,but since it is a Cup what are the rules and the limitations of the championship? Is it necessary the 2D lap timer if you have the GPS datalogging? It does not show in the dash the lap times? Try to choose a good set of brake pads (Brembo Z04,Vesrah SRJL XX). What about suspension tuning? You might need an extra set of wheels. You can also try the ceramic bearings for the wheels.Spend a lot of time on the dyno for engine tuning for the specific fuel (ignition, AFR). There are a lot of things to be done even before you begin the championship.
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When you dyno the bike how you know that it has to much ignition advance and knocking, you hear it? Also since there is a knocking sensor on the BMW is it a safety device for knocking? I know there is an ignition module for the BMW. Did you tune any S1000RR with stock engine? Do you have an example map? With HP calibration kit you can deactivate the knocking sensor which may limit your tune if done correctly.
, oil pressures, suspension pots, IR temps for brake discs and calipers and sooo many others that I cannot even remember.
The Suspension Thread
in Cornering and Techniques
Posted
I am interested to hear more...