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Apollo

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Everything posted by Apollo

  1. Thanks for the tips! I will try it out this weekend. I know that one of my issues is that I feel lower at speed on the bike than reality. It is something I have been trying to work on with the bike stationary on stands. I will try the index and thumb trick and try to get that transitioning feel worked out. And we'll see how it goes with re-thinking lines, especially on the back section. I am definitely still trying to figure out Sunset as it has a fairly large bump running what I would consider the "ideal" line. Same with T2 and trying to figure out the line in view of the concrete
  2. Definitely a mint condition NSR250/RS250R GP bike. Ultimate lightweight track toy.
  3. So two part post, one more technique and one more generic. Technique wise, when are you usually transitioning your hand grip to "screwdriver" hand? One of my issues has been trying to get a lower upper body position, but I am still currently sitting pretty high up, a la Colin Edwards (photo below). I think part of what is hanging me up is that I am often not remembering to transition to screwdriver hand, and getting a bit bound up. When I do remember, it is usually a longer sweeper, and I am pretty much at max lean angle before thinking about it. But I wonder if I should be trying to do i
  4. Are crash repairs included for free? If repair costs were of no consequence: Honda RC-213V-S. Are motor rebuilds included for free? If so, a Honda NSR250 250GP bike.
  5. Sorry to hear about your crash. Things are always clearer in hindsight. Did you write down your concerns on the end of day questionnaire for the staff? You should definitely raise your concerns with them. I would like to offer my two cents as a random passerby, for what it's worth. Hindsight is always clearer though. If you're coming in too hot, screw the drill for that corner, you should always use the brakes rather than chance it. Ultimately, safety is the #1 priority. There is always the next corner to practice the no brakes drill. Just as an FYI for when you return, the 3/4 no brakes
  6. Another street 300 person here. I had a 300 for my street bike for 3 years, after two 600 supersports and before an 1100 Hypermotard and a 1200 Thruxton R. Compared to a bigger bike, the 300 does require more awareness of what gear you're in to ensure you don't bog if you need sudden acceleration. One will definitely shift a lot more than an S1000RR on the street that only needs first and second gear. That being said, I really enjoyed my 300 and never found it lacking at reasonable street speeds below 100mph. It does significantly better at freeway speeds than the old 250s. In term
  7. Thanks for the update, Hotfoot. I was able to connect with Cobie through email and we've got our chat scheduled to discuss my history of crashing. Considering I'm just now getting around to re-painting the track bike, maybe this will keep the paint job clean for a little while longer. 🤣
  8. Thanks, Cobie! Edit: Tried to send you a message, but it said that you cannot receive messages. I sent an email to your superbike school email from a few years back. If there is a different email to reach you at to arrange a chat, please let me know. Thanks!
  9. I'm always open to more discussion and thoughts from another vantage point, especially as there's not much else we can do with motorcycles right now. However, I don't think that my crashes are tied to left versus right so much as they are feel and seat time issues. The issue of front end feel in different conditions has been an issue you and I have discussed. Feel-wise, there are the two ends of the spectrum, low grip and high grip. When the tires are cold or the ground is slick, there is the bowling ball feeling where the front feels light. In contrast, when the conditions are perfect,
  10. I've always preferred right turns. I think part of it is a mental issue of having my upper body be closer to the throttle hand. To this day, when learning a new track and gradually increasing speed, I find that I usually increase speed to the point of touching down knee with right turns first. Then again, 5 of my 6 lifetime track crashes have been right turns though. 😅
  11. What kind of riding you do on the street will likely be the deciding factor for a street bike. Although I enjoyed having small bikes for street bikes, I definitely feel safer with a big bike to power away from dangerous situations. Also, I do not ride on the streets at a pace where a small bike versus a big bike makes a difference. Although I ride a 450 at the track, I have a 1200 Thruxton R for the street. That being said, if the street riding was all sub 70 mph city riding, I would go with a 450-700cc supermoto. But wheelies are illegal. The big bike versus small bike difference is
  12. VIR's staff are fantastic. Hopefully, May works out for you guys and everyone can start getting back to some sense of normal. 1) Most of the time, you can get into the paddock after 5PM or 6PM the day before. There may be a delay if there is a major professional event the day before. 2) I have not done this before, but like Cianciotta said, I would check in early. I would probably contact Whitney at the office beforehand and see if she can check in with JJ. Otherwise, try to catch him in the paddock early (ideally, the day before when they are setting up or asap in the morning). Th
  13. I think you're getting hung up on the "2 second" window. I don't think of trail braking as a defined time period. As you said, the issue is about loading the front suspension to not upset the bike. And as Hotfoot said, each corner brings about its own unique features, which will affect trail braking and when you transition to the throttle. All things the same (body position, etc), for a given lean angle, what happens to your turn radius when you decrease speed or increase speed? Does your turn radius decrease if you only decrease speed and change nothing else? For example, if you turned
  14. I try. That's about all I can answer with. I think riding in the dirt is extremely useful for learning to feel how the bike moves around. It has showed me what the rear stepping out feels like and to feel how the rear comes around when you're on the gas. To an extent, it has helped with my front end feel, as you will feel front end slides. The biggest benefit is that you can crash without a hefty repair bill. Basically, you can push past the limit, pick up the bike, dust yourself off, and continue learning. If you're in the US, you have a number of instruction options including Rich
  15. Thanks, Jaybird. I appreciate the thoughtful reply. I think my issue/question is different from the baseline ergonomics. My handlebar setup does follow the usual recommendations, and the angle and reach are fine. And my issue is not necessarily braking comfort. I do agree that Dylan's wrist angle video is relevant to my issue. Part of why I "overgrip" is to get that flat wrist angle when I am at full throttle. If I merely screwdriver with my hand set rotation wise where it is during braking, I end up rotating past flat wrist as I reach the limit of "screwdriver ability" before full
  16. Thread revival here. So I have recently been running into a mental conundrum with the screwdriver hand, so I thought to bring it back to the forum. Admittedly, it has been quite a while since I did the level with screwdriver hand and I have not brought it up in L4 yet. My issue concerns when regripping or how resetting the hand for braking works. So the concept of holding the bar like a screwdriver on the inside bar seems clear from a fundamentals perspective. However, in application, I find that the only way I can really set my hand in the screwdriver position is to "overgrip," which
  17. One thing to try may be remind yourself mid-corner to relax the outside hand on the external handlebar. Maybe something as simple as opening your hand slightly more than your normal grip. This can be a reminder to not push, or at least it will draw attention to your outside hand and make you recognize when you are pushing.
  18. Yep, I'm a repeat level 4 offender. I recall the pick-up drill and we did the slide bike last year at Streets regarding pick-up and throttle. However, all of the front end tucks in cold/damp conditions have been corner entry, pre-apex, off trail braking already, either no throttle or just barely cracked (not even at maintenance throttle yet) rather than a corner exit issue. By crest in 3A, I mean the slight crest or transition from uphill to flattening out on corner entry as we make the run up from 3. I do know from photos that I'm still not dropping my upper body enough for hook-turn
  19. I think watching racing is helpful for technique related issues. Especially nowadays with on-board telemetry, it is insightful to see how top level riders are trail braking and transitioning to the gas. Scott Redding actually has some fabulous on-boards and discussion of his braking technique on his Youtube channel. I think seeing the different body positions (feet, hands, etc) is very insightful. It's easy for anyone at a track day to tell you what they think; it is entirely different when you can see the positioning of the top level riders. I don't think there is necessarily a n
  20. Fear of leaning too far can be one factor for keeping pressure on the handlebars. Part of it may simply be reminding yourself not to have pressure. Another bigger thing may be addressing why you feel fear. Maybe it is a visual issue with looking far enough down the track. Also, are you supporting your body weight through holding the handlebars? This may also cause the tense arms if you are trying to hold yourself up by gripping the handlebar. Fixing this requires improving your lower body contact with the motorcycle. This might be addressed by looking at how you use your outs
  21. Thanks, Cobie. I don't mean to hijack this thread away from the Street oriented polling. I have read some of the tire threads as they have popped up over the years here. In general, I can feel the super cold "bowling ball" and the hot "biting" feeling. It is the in-between warm up feel that is problematic for me because I am trying to find a pace that adequately warms the tire carcass rather than allowing it to continue cooling. On the street, I ride with a large safety margin, so I have not run into the tire warm up issue on the street. With my margin of error for road conditions
  22. Same as PittsDriver, front end feel. I have ridden dirt bikes in an attempt to improve this, but it is still the most difficult issue for me to improve. On a dirt bike, I have ridden trails with a deflating front tire and kept it upright while believing the trail was slippery. However, on the track, I have lowsided three times over the years in cold morning sessions where I did not feel like I was pushing (maybe riding at 60%) and did not feel like I had any significant warning before the bars went light. Those occasional moments of lowsiding and the subsequent repair bills end up dialing
  23. There are several different foot positions that you will see with some famous, fast riders. As Cobie said, comfort is different for everyone and the biggest issue with your foot being on the end of the footpeg is reduced ground clearance. One question is whether your toes touch the ground when you ride. This can especially happen on standard bikes, some of which have lower footpegs. If so, you may want to have your foot closer to the motorcycle. Personally, I ride with my foot parallel to the motorcycle. I tilt, or cant, my foot to the side so that the outside edge of my foot rests
  24. Ranked. I think visual skills and quick reflexes are the most important for street riding. Riders need to be able to absorb and react to information from the road in order to avoid hazards. Quick reflexes are important, especially with regards to braking and steering inputs. I don't cover the brakes on track, but I definitely do on the street. 1. Visual skill, lack of target fixation 2. Quick reflexes 3. Ability to steer quickly 4. Physical condition, strength 5. Brave
  25. You really can't go wrong with any of the tracks that CSS goes to. However, I would give the slight edge to Barber, VIR, and Laguna if you're making a big trip out of it. If you're open to the entire country, I would probably vote for Barber. It would be a heck of a long trip, and I would definitely recommend using the school's BMWs. Barber has a fantastic track and the museum is incredible. The museum is definitely a must-see. VIR flows incredibly well and has fun elevation changes. You would be running the North course. Beyond the track, VIR has great amenities. You can r
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