[Poll for street riders]

In my opinion, for street riding, if you have the greatest ability to steer quickly but, don’t have visual skills you wouldn’t steer away from the problem.

I think the highest priority is visual skills.  I think the second highest is quick steer.  In my opinion, if you can quick steer to full lean (excessive for street riding but, if a deer or car are coming into your lane maybe it’s not excessive) and have great visual skill, then I don’t know how you could be bad at riding.

I would imagine if you had both of those skills, rolling on the throttle would be easy because you wouldn't run out of track/road.

[Gyroscopic Effect]

Racer,

Someone once told me, “People like to act like they know it all because it makes them feel important.”

Any thoughts on this?

 

-Jim

[What Is The Proper Technique For Locking Into The Tank?]

My understanding, is pushing on the peg with the ball of your outside foot will “raise” your calf. This will therefore allow you to “lock” your knee against the upper “ridge” of the gas tank.

[What Is The Proper Technique For Locking Into The Tank?]

Racer, I have a GSXR750 and I'm 6'1" with a 33 inch inseam. I'm going to install the Stomp Grip this week and see how it goes.

 

I probably won't be able to find out if I'm doing it correctly until I go to the track in August and September. My real test is if I'm able to roll off the throttle to maintain my line. Again, I know this isn't good practice or technique, but it seems to be something which happens to me at one point or another during a track day.

 

Until then, I have time to practice the technique on the street.

 

Thanks...

[What Is The Proper Technique For Locking Into The Tank?]

I was just reading about someone else who had problems locking on; and he was told to make sure he did the "calf raise" and was also driving the outside leg into the tank. I haven't been doing the "calf raise" and I haven't been really driving my outside leg into the tank. I guess, I'll work on those two items and see how it goes.

[What Is The Proper Technique For Locking Into The Tank?]

What is the proper technique for locking into the tank?

 

This is something I have constantly struggled with. I have attended level 4 at CSS three times now and this is the first year I will just do a few track days and not attend any school.

 

I have found it easier to rest my inner thigh against the tank while cornering. This seems to relieve most of the handlebar pressure I apply while in a turn. It also seems to help me relieve bar pressure when I make a mistake and need to roll off the throttle mid-turn. Now, I know I shouldn’t be doing that. But, again I’m not the best rider out there and I make mistakes.

 

I’ve just bought another set of Stomp Grip pads. I’ve used them in the past but, I always seem to remove them because my technique of locking onto the bike is horrible. I usually go back to resting my inner thigh against the tank (this seems to work ok in the turns, but its pretty horrible under braking). Under braking it seems like the bike is going to lift the rear wheel; whereas, when I’m on my toes and using my knees against the tank, I can hit the brakes pretty much as hard as I can without that feeling of lifting the back tire.

But, again when I’m using my knees against the tank I don’t have the same feeling mid-corner as with my thigh against the tank. When I do make a mistake and need to roll off the throttle, I have to stand the bike up instead of leaving it in the lean. I think this due to my handlebar pressure. It seems easier to remove my handlebar pressure, especially in that situation, when using my thigh. One side note, my body position is twisted when using my thigh. And my body position is relatively good when using my knee against the tank. It’s just that I can’t seem to lock my body to the bike when using my knee against the tank.

 

I have been on the Lean Bike twice specifically to work on my body position. The instructors seem to tell me my body position is good. But, I just don't feel locked into position. I can ride around the track in that position, but again if I have to slow mid corner (or risk running off the track); I seem to give the bike a lot of handlebar pressure instead of being light on the bars when rolling off the throttle mid corner (again I know I shouldn’t be doing that but, errors seem to be part of my riding at this point).

 

Any help of locking into the bike would be useful and very appreciated.

 

I really started to think of locking in because under braking I have a horrible time when using my thigh against the tank. Also, it’s pretty bad when accelerating off the corner because I have used the handlebars to pull myself up closer to the tank (can you say tankslapper).

 

Again any help would be appreciated.

 

-Jim

[25mm Cartridges Vs. Re-valve]

Thanks...

[25mm Cartridges Vs. Re-valve]

I was reading the Sport Rider article on the GP Suspension comparison test.

 

I'm just wondering what is the difference between the 25mm Cartridges and the re-valve. Is the front difference in the braking feel?

 

Also, what is the difference for the stock shock? It seemed they claimed the Penske would resist fade. Why is that? Is the stock shock thinner (metal) than the Penske?

 

Thanks...

[Looking For Suggested Suspension Set-up For Zx-6rr]

Not sure if this helps, but in Sport Rider (August 2004) they used the following damping set-up:

 

FRONT:

Rebound Damping ? (minimum) 11 clicks out from full stiff

Compression Damping ? (minimum) 17 clicks out from full stiff

 

REAR:

Rebound Damping ? 10 clicks out from full stiff

Compression Damping ? (minimum) 23 clicks out from full stiff

 

I believe Sport Rider sets the sag at 35mm front and rear.

 

 

I think Road Racing World usually sets the sag at 35mm front and 25mm rear. But, I couldn?t find the damping set-up for a 2004 ZX-6RR.

[Looking For Suggested Suspension Set-up For Zx-6rr]

I just purchased a 2004 ZX-6RR. I will be attending a track day at Pocono. Does anyone have any suggested suspension set-ups?

Thanks...

[Pivot Steering]

Thanks, I appreciate an honest response.

 

My body positioning needs plenty of work. I rarely feel "locked" onto the bike. In general, I tend to countersteer throughout a corner.

 

I'm sure I'll get better after I attend levels III & IV in 2004.

 

Thanks again.

[Pivot Steering]

After reading about pivot steering. It seems important to only use the outside peg and your hands (to steer). How much, if any, weight is on the seat when pivot steering?

 

Is the idea to just press on the outside peg when steering, leaving some weight on the seat? Or lift my weight completely off the seat and ONLY onto the outside peg?

 

Thanks....Jim