Balistic

The short answer is yes they help keep the cost of damage down. A couple of things though, like the catch and tumble the bike? Yes the point of contact is higher than the bike sliding on its side BUT that only counts if the bike is sliding backwards ( tank first) and if it's going away from the tires it's going to turn over anyway. The other is that the slider or bolt will actually damage the frame or engine mount, Yes and no, it depends on the manufacturer. I made my own for years sizing the bolt and sliders to give but protect. R&G are simply the best engineered sliders I have used. We have not had one damage an engine mount in five years. What that means is the bolts give and bend correctly, too stiff and the bike will give. That bending bolt has done some minor damage to bolt face on the frame but it is of no consequence. Yes again to the package effect of sliders on all the high points, the more the better. We have had many bike go down and need only the sliders or a case cover to be ready to go again.

Yes I can confirm that Kawasaki is the toughest of the Japanese sport bikes without a doubt! Current bikes may be the exception as my experience with them ended in 2009. The one thing that was a major difference was the tail frame. Kawasaki stayed with tubing when the others were going to castings that simply explode! I am very happy to report that BMW saw fit to use tubing o the S1000RR and surprise, they crash very well and are easy to repair when bent.

Super volcano

Lots of good advise here, in my experience you can never get 100% back no matter how you clean the pads. I might use then on the street? Cleaning the what is called the deposition layer off the rotors is recommended and then bedding the new pads by dragging the brakes and getting the pads hot enough to melt some material onto the surface of the rotor. This is like a drag car lining up in its burn out, the most grip is when the same material is on both sides. Once you feel the brakes start grab you know you are there and it's time to let it all cool off.

Most of the lightweight batteries are li-Ion, I did see one at the IMS show that is lipo. I have used a few, a Shoria for three years without issue. They all suffer the same Achilles heal, you can not run them low voltage! Not a single time without damage. Usually catastrophic failure the first time. Most offer a 1% discharge rate per month so they can be left alone without a tender. Bottom line is most of the bad out there about this type of battery is from people who used the wrong charger or drew them down too far.

While I have used wheel bearing grease ( a light swipe with a finger) on cars I have never used anything but DOT 3-4 to assemble pistons. I do not like DOT 5 because it isn't hydoscopic, there is no problem mixing DOT 3 or 4 and in fact most say DOT 3/4. Other than a few properties you always have to keep in mind all petroleum products came from the same place and will mix back together.

There is a thing called heat soak, the engine parts are much hotter than the water temp. When you shut the motor off there is spike in water temp that can cause " boil over". One thing i would look at is to make the sure the hose off the radiator neck is going to the bottom of the recovery tank? Other than that fill the recovery tank to the min level with the bike cold and see if anything drips out again.

Unlike race bikes ours have to travel at times when it is below freezing so we do use coolant and not water. While water is good at heat transfer it will boil at a lower point than coolant. You do have to remember that a good cap will hold 15 PSI and that water at that pressure will boil at 240 I think. The corrosion in the cooling system is electrolicys and the only real way to defeat it is to put a zink anode in the cooling system. Hard to find outside of a marine store and then hard to mount in the cooling system. I only use di water in cooling and battery systems for all the reasons you stated. A good alternative to normal cooland is Evans waterless coolant, you would have to check with your sanctioning body but it way beyond what water wetter does.

You could try and narrow that down a little. After four years I can say that BMW has a reputation of reliability for a reason, they make very nice machines. The S1000RR was a big change for us after running 550's and 600's for many years. Horse power can turn parts to dust but the S motor handles the power very well. One little thing that seems to be a wear item is input shaft bearing cup behind the clutch. If your bike or any S1000 seems loud at idle and changes tone when you pull the clutch it's time to replace the bearing assy. Other than that chain and sprockets will be lasting 12 to 16,000 miles. Don't even think about saving money on a chain, with this much power buy the best. Don't even think about an Aluminum rear either! OUr bikes have been the most durable bike to date.

Good kid with a great attitude. can't wait to see him at Code R.A.C.E.

The first thing I would ask is are you pulling the cams all the way down with the cam towers and looking at it? the cams will retard as you tighten the cap down. I usually set the crank and then worry about the cams, it would appear that the cams will be retarded with crank position. If you have done everything right the question of how much the cam chain has stretched may be an issue. You can get slotted cam sprockets and preposition the cams so you can get the crank at top dead and the cam marks lined up.Will

After reading all of this I would suspect the fuel pump first. You need to install a fuel pressure gauge and go out and ride it. Im sure you will see the pressure drop off as demand goes up. it could be a screen filter before the pump too. I had this problem before I changed painters, the old one would spray inside the fuel neck instead of taping it off before the seal and the gas would eat it off and the remains would end up in the screen. hardly noticable at first just a slow drop in power.

I get all my tire supplies from K&L supply. They are a wholesaler to dealers so you will have to ask around a little. They have all sizes of the nippled patches I use and the rope plugs.

Not too sure what could have gone wrong but it would nearly impossible to damage the throttle tube or throttle body by twisting the grip. First question is did you take the throttle case off over the end of throttle tube where the cables go in? Take pictures of the housing and send them to me at mechanic@superbikeschool. com so I walk you through the next step.

I have ridden a Busa on VIR, it was a hoot. there is nothing that cuts through the air like a Busa, The high speed acceleration can not be beat! It isn't my first choice for a track bike but if you have the suspension set-up it can be a joy to ride. I took a 99 ZX9 to Willow and raced it, Never known as a "race" bike people laughed at me. At least until the flags flew, overweight by 50 lbs to a GSXR and down 25 horse I still managed to put it on the podium more often than not. The reason was I found the sweet spot to make it go around a corner. The single biggest problem with getting a Busa set-up correctly is that it take a lot to get the shock out, kind of a pain.