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About Julian

  • Rank
    Cornering Apprentice

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Interests
    Family, motorcycling, sailing and skiing

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  • Have you attended a California Superbike School school?
  1. Good question. Lets start with facts: * YES lowering the PSI will result in higher temps, but not much more than 10 deg F * The increase in temp is not enough to make a cold slick track magically give great grip. * 1 second in faster lap time can equal 10 def F in temperature increase (depending on the track) * Decrease in PSI will affect the handling and stability of the tire and thus the setup. So you must ask yourself: If lowering the PSI gives more temperature and more grip, then why don't I run lower PSI all the time? (this question alone busts the myth right away) I have observed riders lowering their PSI on cold days. I think it helps them mentally feel OK about their next session. I do not think its a major factor and is commonly very much over emphasized. If I saw someone doing it, I would not scold them. But I would not go out of my way to recommend it, and I certainly would not emphasis it as a solution to a cold track. Thanks, makes sense. Can I ask you one more question re wet riding? Another mith says that it's a good idea to put more air in the tyres, in an effort to keep the grooves open. The opposite being that with low air pressures (and considering that temps and pressures won't rise from riding) the 'flat spot' in contact with the track closes the grooves in the tyres. What are your thoughts on this? I can understand the logic - is there any evidence to suggest that it could be happening? Thanks again, Julian.
  2. Kevin Magee. A few years ago I met him on track, and got talking to him between sessions, and he was gracious enough to give me some tips and show me some lines. He was riding an older Speed Triple, with squared-off touring tyres and he still flew past me ... Specifically, what really impressed me was the planning that he puts into a race, he explained the way he breaks the circuit down into sections and tackles each one at a time. He also introduced me to the idea of how to eat during a race (or track day), limiting high-carb foods and nibbling away all day rather than relying on a big lunch. That works really well for me, it improves my concentration and reduces fatigue. A very nice bloke.
  3. Good points Jason. My original draft did in fact go into the 'defensive' line, where racers often straight-line towards an early turn entry, but I didn't want to divert from the topic too much. So let's clarify that on the turns where pro riders want to turn quick ... they turn very quick!
  4. Quick steering can sometimes be difficult to grasp. Let me see if I can explain it in the way it makes sense to me. It's all about the RATE of steering, the time it takes you to go from upright to the required lean angle. Let's say you start your steering at point x, but it takes you a long time to get to your desired lean angle; now you have less room left in the turn, so you need to lean the bike more to make it through. On the other hand, a quick steer will straighten the turn and hence the bike will be more upright. Not only, but it will also shorten the turn, so that you can get on the gas earlier to 1) stabilise the bike and 2) drive. Another way to look at it, is ask yourself what will happen if you want to increase the speed through a turn, without increasing the steering rate? Let's say it takes you 1 second to go to full lean, on a line that takes you to the outside edge of the track on turn exit. Next time you increase the speed by 5mph, where will you end up? Wide of course. If you want to increase your speed through a turn but remain on an acceptable line, you must increase the rate of steering. Rather than being overrated, the more you ride the more you realise just how important it is ... and why it's one of the first CSS drills. Professional racers do turn quick - very quick, sometimes it's hard to tell because of the high speeds (the faster you go, the slower you steer).
  5. Hi Robert. There are two muscles at play; you raise your heel to push your knee into the tank - this is the 'locking-on' part, and that's what you keep doing throughout the turn. Personally I don't think gravity does enough, if you want a stable lower body you need to be locked on solidly. The other muscle - and the one I assume Keith is referring to - is your thigh muscle, which you flex whilst you're steering so that you're using more of your body, and pushing across your body (ie right leg, left arm). Do you recall practicing this on the bike? Once the steering input is complete and you're at your chosen lean angle, you don't need to keep flexing your thigh muscle (when you relax your steering arm, you relax your thigh). However, if the turn has some bumps you might still want to, just toremain light in the saddle and allow the bike to move under you.
  6. Hello Steve. Wow, how fortunate are we to have you here? Can you tackle one of the 'urban myths' that we've probably all heard: that to heat the tyre up and raise the pressure you actually need to take air out, which allows the rubber to flex and heat, resulting in higher pressures. If there's truth to this, can you clarify when it's applicable? It's a frequent debate during very cold days; should riders change pressures, and if so is this done by adding a little air or removing some? Thanks, Julian.
  7. Wishing Andy a speedy recovery, and thanks for keeping us up to date.
  8. I also use 'end of braking' points rather than braking points, because the EOB point doesn't change (not unless I change my line). A 'start of braking' point, however, needs to change as you increase your speed and as you increase your rate of braking (and often a combination of the two). I also find that it's an ability that we all have, and are reasonably comfortable with. Think of street riding; you ride up to a stop sign or a set of traffic lights, and you know that you have to stop by that particular point. Normally you judge it fairly well, don't you? It also encourages you to lift your eyes up, and look at the turn point early, which gives you information on where you are heading and helps with not feeling 'rushed' as you speed towards the turn. However, I still have a turn point, as not every turn is a braking turn (sometimes you just set your turn entry speed).
  9. Carey's questions are very valid. When I decided to get into track riding seriously I was faced with the same question, and unless you are physically too large to fit into a 600 comfortably then I would say yes, get yourself a 600. It's an ideal motorcycle to learn to ride on track with. It will teach you to carry good corner speed, the lower power means you're less likely to get into trouble (but you still can) and on most tracks they're just as fast as the larger bikes. There are lots of track punters who have switched from a 1000 to a 600 and have improved their riding as a result. Plus there's plenty of them around, particularly if you're after a dedicated track bike; you can buy one that someone else has already set up, at great value (have a look at the formula extreme website).
  10. G'day Pete, and welcome. Great choice in bike, but finding one at a bargain will be a challenge. As there's no race class for them there's not so many 750cc's around, and when they do come up for sale they're in high demand.
  11. Some of the techniques I can see: - He is well locked on, hips are very stable. - Upper body moves WITH the bike. - He is very light on the bars. - He pushes his upper body forward when accelerating, to prevent having to hold himself by the bars. - He has one finger on the brake lever, one on the clutch, feathering, every transition is as smooth as. Good example of how much lean angle is possible, when you do it right. Amazing stuff.
  12. Great topic and great answers. Re "as tire gets thinner it will run cooler .... when the tyre gets cooler it may have less grip", is that the reason why a tire has less grip as it gets old? The thread might be gone, but there is still a decent contact amount of rubber making contact with the road - if anything, without the thread there is more rubber making contact (or so it seems to me). Or do other factors come into play? I recall noticing this when I was a young man, with never enough money for new tyres for my old car. Once the thread was gone, so was the grip - despite the fact that there is actually more rubber in contact with the road.
  13. Hi all, I'm Julian, a CSS coach from downunder. I'm new to this forum, so my apologies if this has been discussed before. I'm wondering what you all do to make sure that you will last the distance during a track day? And what about fitness generally? Track days can be very taxing on the body and mind; they are physically demanding, and being out under the hot sun in a cow suit will dehydrate you very quickly. The high level of concentration that such an unfamiliar activity demands can also wear you out; combine the two (physical and mental), and it's easy to understand why we sometimes feel exhausted by the end of the day. This is my own method, it's what I do to make sure I cope with the day: - Build up fluid intake at least a day before. I will make a point to drink a lot of water the day before a trackday. During the trackday, I will drink 1/2 to 1 litre of fluid between sessions, more if it's very hot. Half of that is water, the other half is a mix of powerade/gatorade and water (50/50). - Eat a hearty dinner the evening before. A good balanced meal. - Eat a decent breakfast, usually cereal like muesly that will release energy slower than something like bacon/eggs/toast. - During the day I will keep nibbling away all day rather than eat a large lunch (although I admit to not always sticking to this). This advice came from an ex-500cc world champion, and it works very well. - If it's a hot day, stay out of the sun and conserve your energy as much as possible. The other thing that is a 'must' - IMO - is to stretch well before and after. Re fitness, well, whilst I am realtively fit and healthy, exercise has never been my strong point, and it's something that I need to work on. What do you do?
  14. This is the stuff I used, it's a "blend of Carnauba Wax, natural oils, and cleaners" ; I recall reading on the bottle that it can also be used as a cleaner (although that doesn't deal with the sweat etc on the inside): It's what was in my wardrobe, some clever shoe salesman probably convinced me to buy it when I bought a pair of shoes
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