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FieryRobot

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Posts posted by FieryRobot

  1. FieryRobot,

     

    A couple of questions...

    1) Are you familiar with the calf-raise technique to help drive your knee into the tank (in this case, the right knee)?

    2) Do you have Stomp Grip on your bike?

     

    Benny

     

    Yes, and yes.

     

    Is your shift lever adjusted too high up for you to reach it easily? If you have to lift your while foot up to shift, that sounds too high. Ideally you should adjust the lever so that you can just slide your foot forward and click it up or down easily without having to make a change in your overall leg position. If the action required is more than just rotating the toe of your boot up and down using ankle flex, it may not be adjusted properly for you.

     

    What I mean is I need to move my foot forward/down, as I ride on the ball of my foot normally, so when I do that, I need to slide my foot down to the shifter. This involves me having to lift my foot a bit to do this motion. Does that help?

     

    EDIT: I would add that my boots are grippy and I'm running with AP rearsets, so just sliding my foot is out of the question. It's stuck there :-)

  2. Here's an odd question for you... When I ride to work and back I focus a lot on laying off the bars, but whenever I shift, I have to slide my foot forward (which really involves lifting it a bit). When this happens, I feel myself use the bars to stabilize myself. I have not yet figured out a good way to avoid this. Moving my foot alone is *hard* and at least one time caused a nice cramp in my right leg due to the strain of trying to hold myself in position with one leg (which seems way easier when hanging off).

     

    Any suggestions? Exercise more?

     

  3. It sounds to me like you must be holding on tightly for more than just for hard braking for your arms to give out that quickly. As Hotfoot mentioned above, when you are in a turn, are you conscious of how tightly you're gripping the bars? I catch myself holding on too tight all the time and have to remind myself to be loose. It also makes a huge difference in a hook turn (i.e. it will actually work if you loosen up).

  4. Seems more right than wrong to have them on!

    Yup! I have frame sliders, spools, and engine case covers with the hopes that a minor incident will be easily dealt with. I've had a bike go down and grind a hole in the engine case. I would call this "bad". Thankfully, no bad stuff made its way inside. It was that incident that made me buy everything under the sun.

  5. I believe (and really, it's just that—a belief) that the long sliders are far more apt to cause a flip than ones that are lower and more rounded. I have the GB Racing "race" sliders for this very reason (they also make a taller version for street—my thinking is this is because street riders care more about their plastics).

     

    The big toilet-paper-roll sliders seem like trouble to me.

  6. I agree with the comments above. I think some of your turn-in points are off, and while I can't see your head in the video, it seems like you aren't looking through the corner. This is costing you cornering speed and you seem to be running wide of the apex in many corners.

     

    So to echo some of the above, I'd work on reference points and 2/3-step. Looking towards your apex point before you arrive at your turn marker makes a huge difference. I know when I focus on that, my cornering speed goes way up.

  7. Wanted to give a big thanks to the CSS crew for a great 2-day at MMP this Monday and Tuesday. My friend Kalle and I came away with some really great tools to use and I think we both improved a great deal over those two days. I know my last session was probably my strongest session ever, anywhere.

     

    Special thanks to Cobie and Joe for their on-track coaching!

  8. One note from this weekend's track day on the new *5 MILE* full track at Thunderhill. My friend who wears the Sidis had his boot get caught up on his rear set plate. The Sidis have a kind of exoskeleton that managed to snag. The A* boots are really smooth and don't seem to have a place to snag. They also zip on the other side, which I think helps in that regard. Anyway, just a data point we learned.

  9. I have an S1000RR. I got it because it has TC/ABS and it was unexpectedly civilized. I never had plans to ride on a track, but well, you know how that goes.

     

    I'm still relatively inexperienced track-wise, and let's be honest, that thing has too much power (for me) even in Sport Mode. So at times I wonder if I shouldn't get something smaller as a dedicated track bike. But an R6 for example has no TC or ABS. Am I putting myself more at risk in that scenario? On the flip side, am I relying too much on the tech in the S1000RR and not really learning? Should I just deal with the power? It certainly does seem wasteful to NOT use the S1000RR as my track bike.

     

    Anyway, these are thoughts that go through my head once in a while. Just curious what more experienced riders have to say. I figured I'd ask here instead of random S1000 or R6 forum because there's too much bias either way.

  10. So I'm booked for this coming Mon/Tues in Sonoma, and I looked at the forecast, and the 4 days I was planning to spend up there are exactly the four days it's planning to rain.

     

    Never ridded in the rain, so needless to say I'll be a freaked out a bit. But... what should I wear? Should I get something like this:

     

    http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/alpinestars-racing-rainsuit

     

    Or do people usually just go 'naked' in their leathers? Will there be laughing if I get the above oversuit? I'm very sensitive to peer pressure :-)

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